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GARDENING IN THE SOUTH and WEST 

TEMPERATE ZONE 








































































































































. 






















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(GARDENING 




in the South and Weft 


TEMPERATE ZONE 


u 




Edited by 

Mrs. Gross R. Scruggs 

Margaret Scruggs * 

,V^\coujQrA < 5>V ulOoIV 

Illustrated by 
Margaret Scruggs 



SOUTHWEST PRESS 
DALLAS, TEXAS 

















S1L a-o5 
, S4^r 


REVISED ENLARGED EDITION 

Copyright 1919 
Mrs. Gross R. Scruggs 



APR 15 WW 

OQPERIGM DEPOSIT 












Afonso red by 

rtXbS 

GAKDIM CLUBS 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Acknowledgments 

The Conflict of the Winds. 1-3 

Consider the Soil. 4-24 

Texture and Structure of Soil — Combinations of 
Soils—Chemical Analysis—Soil for House Plants—The 
Three Types of Soil — Preparation of Areas. Manures 
and Fertilizers —Organic (Green, Barnyard, Liquid 
Manure)—Inorganic Fertilizers. Some Feeding Notes— 


Moisture (Watering). 

Creating Beautiful Surroundings. 25-30 

The Green Frame of the Garden. 31-70 


Shrubs of Varying Heights—Low-growing, Medium and 
Tall Shrubs or Small Trees—Shrubs that are Perennial¬ 
like—Semi-tropical Plants, Shrubs and Trees—Trees— 
Shrubs and Trees from Seed and Cuttings—Shrubs as 


Screens and Hedges — Pruning — Acid-loving Plants, 

Shrubs and Trees. 

A Cycle of Continuous Bloom. 71-81 

Shrubs—Vines—Climbing Roses—Flowering Plants. 

Hosts of Gay Flowering Plants. 81-99 

Perennials—Chart of Hardy Herbaceous Plants—Per¬ 
ennials Grown in New Mexico—List of Perennials (alpha¬ 
betical) — Semi-tropical — Drought-resistant — Del¬ 
phinium—Chrysanthemums. 

Annuals for a Season .99-104 

Plants for Specific Places and Uses. 10 5 

Vines and Trailing Plants .106-109 

Southwestern Native Plants of Garden Value . 110-120 

Transplanting — To Press Specimens — ''Native Plants 
That Charm and Heal.” 

vii 











CONTENTS viii 

PAGE 

Propagation.121-136 

Seed (Flats, Open Beds, Transplanting — Annuals, "What 
to Plant in Spring” and Valley Note; "What to Plant in 
Fall” and Valley Note — Perennials and Biennials). Divis¬ 
ions — Cuttings — Layering — Grafting and Bud¬ 
ding — Cold Frames — Garden Secrets. (Time of 
Planting, Winter Protection, Fertility, Color Notes, 

Chemical Aids, Flow to Plant, When to Plant). 

Effect of Light on Vegetation.137-140 

How to Plant. 141 

Spring-Flowering Bulbs.142-150 

Small Bulbs—Narcissi—Tulips—Native Bulbs and Tubers. 

The Lily— T he Iris— T he Rose.151-152 

Lilies.153-168 

Culture—Soil—Valley Note—How to Plant—Propaga¬ 
tion—Native to Southwest—Lilies and Tuberous Plants. 

Iris.169-183 

Tall Bearded—Iris in Arid Sections—Native Iris—Beard¬ 
less and Bulbous—Iris for Trial—"A Garden of Bulbs.” 

Roses. 184-207 

Types of Roses (Shrub, Climbing, Polyantha and Flori- 
bunda, Bush or Bedding Roses). Planting—Fertilization— 

How to Recognize a Good Bush—A Rose Garden. 

Color— T he Secret of Charm. 208-219 

Blossoms Unfolding Each Hour. 210 

Feature Gardens. 221-247 

Hillside Garden. 222-22 6 

Where the Sun Rarely Shines . . . 227-229 


Pools for Delight. 230-236 

The Semi-Dry Garden. 237-243 

Desert Plants. 244-247 

Birds .. 

Combating Plant Enemies. 

I. Insects and Pests. (How to recognize and treat them.) 

II. Diseases. III. Combination Remedies. IV. The Well- 
stocked Medicine Chest. 

Bibliography . 

Index. 


248 

249-259 


261 

262 





















ILLUSTRATIONS 

A Garden of Perennials. 80-81 

The Salvias. 112 

The Lily—The Iris—The Rose. 151 

A Garden of Roses. 205 

Blossoms Unfolding Each Hour. 210 

From "Paradisi in Sole”. 221 

A Window Garden. 260 


tLJf 

Illustrated by 

Aarguret/Scruggs 


IX 









ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

J T IS surprising how few books or articles are available for 
reference and study on the propagation and cultivation of 
native , or foreign, plants in the Southwest. Recognizing this fact, 
a questionnaire was sent to a large number of Garden Club mem¬ 
bers, and other experienced gardeners, who, by living with and 
learning the needs of their plants, were peculiarly qualified to share 
their knowledge. Because of the quantity of material received 
through their generous response, it was found impossible to note 
and give credit for each specific bit of information, yet all have 
been incorporated into the composite whole. Each chapter contains 
a contribution from an experienced grower together with many 
additional notes by the Editors. 

Special thanks are extended Hon. Hatton Sumner for enlisting 
the cooperation of the United States Department of Agriculture, 
from whom was received a quantity of valuable scientific data. 

The cooperation and assistance given, also, by the staff of the 
Texas Agricultural and Mechanical College; S. H. Yarnell, Chief 
of Division of Horticulture; A. B. Conner, Director of Texas Agri¬ 
cultural Experimental Station; N. M. McGinnis; C. E. Seicke, 
Director; R. F. Balthis, Assistant Texas Forestry Service; F. M. 
Hensel, Head of Landscape Department; J. J. Taubenhaus, Chief, 
Division of Plant Pathology; R. H. Stansel, Angleton; John J. 
Bayless, Balmorhea; H. F. Morris, Nacogdoches; D. L. Jones, Lub¬ 
bock; E. Mortensen, Winterhaven; and those connected with the 
Oklahoma Agricultural and Mechanical College, Dr. H. J. Harper, 
Department of Soils; Frank B. Cross, Department of Horticulture; 
H. I. Featherly, Department of Botany; George Merrill, Depart¬ 
ment of Horticulture; Sam Smith; Franklin J. Reudel, Superin¬ 
tendent of Greenhouses; Harry Coke; Mrs. L. A. Cleverdon; and 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


xi 


to Prof. Adlai Feather of New Mexico State College (Mesila Val¬ 
ley), Mrs. Gertrude Howells, Mrs. W. H. Benners, Mr. R. A. 
Gilliam, Mr. W. A. Bridwell, Mrs. R. A. Hightower and Mrs. Thos. 
Rives—has been invaluable. They have not only given of their 
personal knowledge and encouragement, but have granted us the 
privilege of quoting from their publications. 

The articles contributed by Mr. John C. Wister and Mrs. Wm. 
Crocker will be of special interest because of their accurate knowl¬ 
edge of all that is new in the plant world through affiliations with 
experimental research. Also data on pests from Mr. and Mrs. W. L. 
Jonson, is appreciated. 

Thanks are extended to the following who so promptly answered 
the questionnaire: 

AMARILLO—Mrs. Tabor, Mrs. L. A. Wells, Lahay White, Mr. T. M. Robertson. 
ARLINGTON—Mrs. J. D. Faulkner, Mrs. C. B. Snyder. 

AUSTIN—Mrs. O. O. Norwood, Mrs. M. S. Dickerson, Mrs. J. Frank Dobie, Mr. 

J. M. Ramsey, Mr. C B. Tharp, Mrs. S. F. Smith. 

BEAUMONT—Mr. W. Gunter. 

BRADY—Brady Garden Club Members, Mrs. S. W. Hughes, President. 
BROWNWOOD—Mrs. H. H. Negus, Mrs. R. M. Ramsey. 

BRYAN—C. N. Wyatt, J. W. Westbrook. 

CARTHAGE—Carthage Circulating Book Club, sent in by Mrs. V. D. Hooker, 
Mrs. W. W. Hester. 

CHILDRESS—Mrs. W. E. Davis, Mrs. O. S. Barnett, Mrs. John Czewski. 

CISCO—Cisco Garden Club. 

COMANCHE—Mrs. J. B. Chilton. 

COMMERCE—Mrs. W. B. Dejarnett, Mrs. B. P. Bingham, Mr. Rixhead, Agricul¬ 
tural Department, East Texas State Teachers* College. 

DALLAS—Mrs. J. H. Simpson, Mr. Joe S. Lambert, Mrs. Eugene McDermott. 
DENISON—Mrs. George O. Morgan. 

DENTON—Mr. Thos. B. Foster. 

EL PASO—Mr. H. H. Reeves, T. J. Vinson. 

FORT WORTH—Mrs. Kitty Barry Crawford, Mrs. B. C. Rhome, Jr., Mrs. Roy 
Vaughan, Mrs. James T. Taylor, Mrs. Willard Burton, Mrs. E. P. Van Zandt. 
GARLAND—Mrs. B. N. Freeman. 

LONGVIEW—Miss Dollie Northcutt, Mrs. J. T. Stickey. 

LUBBOCK—Mrs. A. B. Cunningham, Mr. Chas. S. Mahoney, Chief of Department 
of Horticulture, Texas Technological College; Mr. Cyrus E. Russell. 
McKINNEY—Mrs. J. L. Lovejoy, Mrs. Joe W. Largent. 

PARIS—Mrs. J. C. Wooten, Mrs. Joe Gillespie, Mrs. Yost, Mrs. J. T. Simmons, 
Mrs. H. C. Armstrong, Mrs. Floyd, Mrs. Boyd, Mrs. Scott Galbreath, Mrs. 
Golden Alexander, Mrs. F. D. Mallory, Mrs. E. B. Lowery. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


xii 


STEPHENVILLE—Mr. H. M. Brundus, Professor of Horticulture, Tarleton College. 

TEMPLE—Mrs. S. E. Roddy, Mrs. L. B. Leake, Mrs. J. E. Jackson, Mrs. J. E. 

Robertson, Mrs. W. E. Hume, Mrs. C. Cox, Mrs. George W. Owens, Mrs. 

Spencer. 

TYLER—Mrs. Walter Connally, Mrs. Elizabeth Potter, Mrs. W. S. Hanley, Mrs. 

A. L. Thompson. 

WACO—Mrs. W. M. Kelley, Mrs. E. B. Richie, Mrs. Lee Davis. 

WICHITA FALLS—Mrs. Orville Bullington, Mrs. S. P. Timberlake, Mrs. Horace 

Robbins, Mrs. E. B. Hayne, Mrs. T. O. Shappell, Mrs. Curtis Atkison, Mrs. 

Guy Rogers, Mrs. B. L. Fain, Mrs. C. J. Bardard, Mr. N. H Downing, Mr. 

Edwin C. Bebb. 

Attention is called to the unusual feature—distinctly unique, 
not found elsewhere—contributed by Mrs. Lee Newbury, that of 
discriminatingly selecting and describing those NATIVE plants of 
definite garden value, that are listed by Commercial growers. 

"Gardening in the Southwest” is most fortunate, also, to include 
in its pages the graphic account of the cultivation of Lilies by Mrs. 
George M. Stuart, as her untimely death occurred soon after her 
notes were written. Her experience is of special value because her 
deep love of flowers engendered an intimate, intelligent observation 
of their individual requirements. 


Because no one individual could possibly in one lifetime gather 
through experience and experimentation such a wealth of accurate, 
widespread and exhaustive information of every type of plant-life, 
specific information has been sought and secured; and certain 
chapters in this book (as listed) were based on information fur¬ 
nished by the following people: 


Shrubs —Mrs. E. A. Belsterling and 
F. K. McGinnis 

Perennials —Mrs. Garrett O. Moore 
Soil —Mrs. Robert Hughes 
Chrysanthemums —Mrs. Herbert 
Marcus 


Propagation —Mrs. H. M. Doolittle 

Bulbs —Mrs. T. T. Price 

Roses —Mrs. John Loomis 

Herbs —Mrs. Will Lake 

Pests —Mrs. Dorothy Doran Walker 


The unique value of this book, therefore, lies in its being a record 
of the combined experience of many individuals. 


Marian Price Scruggs, 
Margaret Scruggs, 

Editors. 



^he Conflict of the Winds 

| UR great Southwest—that section of this vast country that 
extends down to the Gulf and to the very borders of Old 
Mexico—possesses greater variety of climate and vegetation than 
has any similar area of this United States. From the lowlands of 
the semi-tropics to the foothills of the Rockies is little more than a 
day’s journey. The trail passes quickly from the land of the 
Oleander and the Orange trees—across the flower-studded prairies 
—through the dry plains, covered with strange plants, and stunted 
trees—on to the mountainous districts where cacti and Alpine 
plants all but mingle together. 

Here the winds play an important part! The soft moist breezes 
from the Gulf are counterbalanced by the icy blizzards from the 
Rockies, intermingled with the fierce heat-blasts from the arid 
desert regions. Each controls a special section, yet wields its influ¬ 
ence over all. 

The extremes of heat and cold, however, are not the controlling 
factors in estimating the great difference between planting condi¬ 
tions. It lies, rather, in prolonged summer, when there are so many 
more long days than are reckoned in other localities, which cause 
a halt, or cessation, of all activities both in the plant world as well 
as with human beings. In other parts of the country, plants take a 
long winter nap, while in the Southwest their rest-period is a 
summer siesta. 

Charts, tables or deductions, based primarily on the range of the 
thermometer from extremes of heat to cold, cannot be accepted in 
the Southwest as an accredited basis for estimating plants* adapt¬ 
ability to the locality; nor can .it be said to be determined entirely 
by the content of the soil, for a third factor plays an almost equally 


1 



2 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


important part in plants’ survival of development. This is a certain 
"hardening process” to which all must be subjected where climatic 
conditions are governed by cruel winds and lack of moisture. 

Extending northward from the Gulf and the Rio Grande, where 
semi-tropic plants predominate, every hundred miles a marked 
change in climate and vegetation is encountered. Noticeably dis¬ 
tinct groups of plants grow in each well-defined belt. In addition 
to climatic variabilities, definite characteristics have been developed 
by the effect of soil, altitude, and general topography of the land. 
Specific families are to be found, also, in the various altitudes, for 
some demand mountain peaks or rocky hillsides, while still others 
will grow only in woods or partial shade, in swamps or on the banks 
of streams. 

However, the great majority of garden plants, given proper pro¬ 
tection in location and exposure, will thrive in any soil that has 
been brought to the desired garden texture, the predominant type 
of soil being usually non-acid (toward neutral). 

HOW TO DETERMINE TIME FOR PLANTING 

The general observation that for every one hundred miles north¬ 
ward, or southward, there seems to be from one to two weeks’ 
difference in plant development, taken as a guide, enables one 
safely and easily to reckon or estimate dates for garden activities. 

Travelling eastward from the Mississippi River to the Atlantic 
Coast, there is a perceptible change in the character of the soil, 
although in the main it is pale yellow and light brown to reddish 
in color, mostly residual soil of medium-textured, mineral types 
resting generally on heavy clay subsoils. The heavy black limestone 
soils of central Texas, resting on calcareous bases, shift from alka¬ 
linity to neutral to acid as one nears the Mississippi, so that plants 
that can be grown in Louisiana practically coincide with those 
advised for east Texas, where the temperature is the same. 

The entire group of southern states—familiarly known as the 
Old South—in general may be classified as congenial to acid-loving 
plants, although the soil is calcareous in some sections (lime) and 


THE CONFLICT OF THE WINDS 


3 


neutral in others. As the vast majority of plants prefer neutral to 
acid soil rather than alkalinity, a much greater range of plant-life 
may be enjoyed in this area, the temperature-belt being the same 
and the part the wind plays less definite, than can be had in the 
western section of the belt. 

On the northern portion of the temperature-belt, the soil in 
Oklahoma and Arkansas being on the whole not as acid as Louis¬ 
iana—more nearly neutral—in general neither plants that are 
tender or semi-tropical, nor extreme acid-loving can be recom¬ 
mended for general use. 

"A very simple statement in regard to soil conditions in Oklahoma would be that in 
the east half of the state the major portion of the soils are deficient in phosphorus and 
this should be added to all soils in order to make conditions more favorable for the 
growth of plants. About thirty per cent of the soils in the eastern half of Oklahoma are 
very acid and if the plants which are being grown are lime-loving plants, success cannot 
be secured without the addition of lime to these acid soils .”—Horace J. Harper. 

Parts of West Texas and Oklahoma, and most of New Mexico 
suffer from extremes of heat and cold—sudden changes—and very 
high winds. The extraordinary success of Gardeners in overcoming 
these difficulties in this region is practically unparalleled in the his¬ 
tory of garden making. 









Ideal Soil 


Classes 


Consider the Soil 

HE secret of success in a garden lies in the soil. It must be 
loose enough not to crowd the small rootlets and to allow 
free circulation of water and air, yet firm enough to hold sufficient 
moisture for their nourishment—not soggy, but well-drained and 
containing in correct proportion those chemical ingredients re¬ 
quired for plant growth—Nitrogen, Potash and Phosphorus. 

I. TEXTURE AND STRUCTURE OF SOIL 

Geologists have divided soil into several classes identified by the 
size of the particles of decomposed mineral or vegetable matter of 
which they are formed, sand, clay, adobe, calcareous or limestone 
and silt or alluvial soil, being of the Mineral group, while Peat- and 
leaf mold (which embody strictly decomposed vegetation) repre¬ 
sent the vegetable formation and humus is a combination of both 
decomposed vegetation and minerals, in which the former predom¬ 
inates, affected by the circulation of air through it, together with 
absorption of certain life-giving properties derived from the ele¬ 
ments. Every one of these classes may be found in some section of 
the great Southwest—all being represented in Texas alone. 


SAND 

Sand, which is generally disintegrated quartz, is the coarsest of 
all soils. The looseness of its particles allows water to pass through 
them readily so that most of its plant food is thus carried away. It 




4 




CONSIDER THE SOIL 


5 


should be mixed with clay to bind its particles together and leaf- 
mold or humus to hold moisture and supply in soluble form the 
food qualities inherent in it, needing sometimes also a complete 
chemical fertilizer that is a well-balanced food ration. The finer 
the grains of the sand, the better is the garden loam that is formed 
from it. 

The chief value of sand is that its large particles hold that 
warmth so necessary both to plant germination and growth and 
enables the fertilizers to give up readily those ingredients required 
for plantfood. Care should be taken to add fertilizer and manures 
to sand only at the time they will be needed by the plant, other¬ 
wise much of their valuable contents may be lost. 

CLAY 

Clay, whose particles are fine and smooth to the touch and form 
a compact mass (sticky when wet) too close to admit free circula¬ 
tion of water and air, must have sufficient sand to separate its 
particles and humus to bring it to that texture needed for an ideal 
garden loam. 

In preparing a garden in clay soil, two points should be noted: 
first, that it should not be disturbed while wet, and second, that 
good underdrainage adds remarkably to its productivity, for clay 
contains a high degree of plantfood, notably potash. When ferti¬ 
lizers are added to it, use those in which nitrogen and phosphorus 
predominate. 


SILT 

Silt is coarser in texture than clay and finer than sand. It is 
exceedingly rich in plantfood and mixes well with humus. It is 
also useful as a binder for sand and clay. Often it is what is also 
termed "Alluvial Soil. ,, Alluvial soil is that finely-ground deposit, 
or residue, which is transported by rivers and streams, many times 
to great distances. The widest belt in the Southwest is located along 
the Rio Grande Basin, while the Mississippi River delta and banks 


What is 
Sand 

Coast-Line 

Mostly 


Value 


East Texas, 
La., Ark., 
and Eastern 
Oklahoma 
Character¬ 
istics of 
Clay 


Along 
Streams 
See Dashes 
on Soil 
Map 



6 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


as well as the overflow sides of all streams, great and small,' contain 
silt in varying depths, and degrees of fertility-character. 



ADOBE 


Character 

West Texas, 

Western 

Oklahoma 

and Eastern 

New 

Mexico 


Demands 


Adobe soil, being composed largely of alluvial, or "playa,” clay 
(accumulations by deposit on broad level spots in arid or desert 
regions) and silt with some sand, the requirements for clay soil 
apply to this type also with the additional caution that though 
high in potential productivity, it needs careful handling. Irrigation 
has been found to be the best method of supplying moisture where 
sufficient quantities of humus and sand have been added to release 
the fertility within this very fine-textured type of soil. (See p. 16.) 

The extreme compactness of its particles renders it very sticky 
when wet and hard enough when dry to be used as material for 
constructing buildings. 

Sifted coal ashes or wood ashes, together with straw and manure 
—sand, humus and sawdust—will render an adobe soil perfect in 
texture for garden loam, which texture may be maintained largely 
by deep tillage, good drainage and adequate moisture. 


ABODE TYPES 

(a) Desert Soil is extremely rich in plantfood and is more or 
less alkaline (generally lying on clay subsoils). It demands humus 
and irrigation to release its valuable content. By tillage or deep 
mulches the necessary moisture is conserved to make this vast semi- 
arid plains country yield its wealth in productivity. 

(b) Rollling Plains Soil is similar to the desert soil in character, 
yet differs in that its fine sandy or clay loams are more friable and 
are deeper and darker in color. Both respond to tillage and the 





CONSIDER THE SOIL 


7 


addition of humus and sufficient moisture during the plant’s grow¬ 
ing season. A distinct group of plants thrive in these regions. 

(c) The Edwards Plateau contains little tillable soil because it is 
shallow, stony land, yet the soil, where of sufficient depth to sus¬ 
tain vegetation is mostly dark and calcareous, resting on limestone. 

(d) Western New Mexico contains soil similar in character to 
Eastern Arizona—largely alkaline, adobe sands, while the moun¬ 
tainous regions differ but slightly in soil-texture, differentiation 
being mostly in the shifting extremes in temperature every twenty- 
four hours. 

CALCAREOUS 

The calcareous, or disintegrated limestone, soils of the central 
section of the Southwest, have had very little written about them. 

They are extremely rich, having supported a series of crops year 
after year for many years, without the need of fertilization nor 
any reduction in productiveness. 

Being "derived through the disintegration of the underlying Derivation 
beds of highly calcareous rocks, these strata contain much lime 
carbonate. (P. 1323)7 The accumulation of decayed vegetable- 
matter under the prevailing humid conditions and in the presence 
of lime carbonate has caused the surface soil of the greater part of 
these prairie lands to have a decidedly dark or black color. This 
type is locally called 'black, waxy land’.” (P. 1227.) 1 

Often "large (P. 1227j 1 deep cracks form in this soil in very 
dry weather.” Another "characteristic is, this soil will crumble 
down on drying to a mass of small aggregates. . . . Even clods 
turned up when wet crumble at the first rain and assume a desir¬ 
able tilth. Extending (P. 1231) 1 back from the stream valleys the 
depth of the soil increases and the quantity of rock fragments on 
the surface decreases. The surface soil of many acres is strewn with 
fragments of the parent rock.” These "weather rapidly into soil.” 

This soil varies in productivity according to the depth of material 
over the basic chalk or limestone rock.” 1 Being more or less clayey 
> - 

1,€ Soil Survey”—Texas A. & M.— William Carter—1924. 





$ 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Deficiencies 


in texture, the addition of humus, leaf-mold and sand is necessary 
to render it more friable under all conditions. It will then grow any 
type of plant except those demanding a high degree of acidity. 

Central Oklahoma contains black, heavy soil, calcareous in the main and yet not as 
rich nor as deep as the “black-waxy” lands. 

The chief deficiency of this soil is phosphorus. Sudden variations 
in temperature in winter, coupled with the hot winds of summer, 
are the chief problems to be met to secure successful gardening. 
Choice of plants therefore, that are adapted to these conditions 
obviates this difficulty. 



II. COMBINATIONS OF SOILS 

Where one does not find soil pure in type, it is usually inter¬ 
mingled in varying proportions, the name given to a specific mix¬ 
ture being designated by the name of the predominating class or 
type—clayey sand, sandy-clay, etc. For example, surrounding the 
"black, waxy belt” to the East, North and West is a sandy-clay 
belt, part of which rests in a limestone or other heavy subsoil, the 
other part on a clay subsoil. 

SUBSOIL VS. TOPSOIL 

Because of its lack of decomposed vegetation, the subsoil has only 
potential value for plant growth. It is, therefore, not as advisable 
to use as topsoil. Topsoil is usually much darker in color than the 
subsoil that lies in varying depths beneath it. This coloring is caused 
by the accumulation of decayed vegetable matter (humus, which 
is more readily available to plants for food, being mostly decom¬ 
posed leaves, roots and stalks). The darker the soil the richer it is 
in plantfood, and because of this richness (being an ideal basis for 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


9 


a productive garden loam) in preparing a bed for a flower garden, 
the topsoil should be carefully separated from the paler subsoil and 
piled to one side that none of it may be lost. After a portion of the 
subsoil has been removed and the remainder well pulverized and 
brought to productive consistency (by mixing manures, sandy- 
loam or whatever other ingredient it lacks) then the topsoil may 
be added and forked well into the bed. 



III. CHEMICAL ANALYSIS 

No type of soil contains sufficient nourishment to continue to 
sustain a large group of plants. Therefore, additional nutriment 
must be supplied, for plants demand quantities of nitrogen, phos¬ 
phorus and potash for perfection of development. 

Nitrogen: 

Nitrogen is needed to produce color and brilliance in fruit and 
flowers, as well as aid in developing leaf and stem-growth, being 
taken up by the plant in its early stages of growth. Cottonseed 
meal, dried blood, nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia help 
to supply sufficient nitrogen to plants. 

Phosphorus: 

Phosphorus (or phosphoric acid) supplies those qualities that 
assist in the maturing of seed, in the development of root-growth 
and in perfection of flower, giving to the plants power to counter¬ 
act that weakening tendency toward contracting disease which is 
caused by nitrogen, and being absorbed by the plants about uni¬ 
formly during the period of their active growth. Its natural source 
is to be formed in bonemeal and the other mineral phosphates. 




10 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Potash: 

Potash helps phosphoric acid in making plants disease-resistant 
and supplies that which bring them to normal maturity, producing 
larger, more vigorous plants. It can be supplied by hardwood ashes, 
or from various potassium salts, obtainable through commercial 
fertilizers. 


SOURCES 

The chief sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash for plant- 
food are to be found in the various kinds of manures and especially 
prepared chemical or commercial fertilizers. 

PH: 

Through the facilities of comparatively inexpensive soil-testing 
equipments, greater interest is being aroused in the scientific anal¬ 
ysis of soils to determine the ratio of the available plantfood 
elements therein. 

The symbol pH indicates the degree of concentration of hydro¬ 
gen ion in any soil—expressing the degree of acidity or alkalinity 
—the figure 7 being the numeral used to indicate neutrality. All 
numerals above 7 indicate the alkaline content, while those below 
express the degree of acidity. 

Tables have been arranged on this pH basis, giving the soil- 
requirements of many specific plants. For example, Azaleas require 
about 4.5 pH (most intolerant of lime). Sweet peas want a neutral 
to alkaline soil, about 7.5 pH. Roses prefer 6.5 pH. 

It must be noted, however, that a great many plants can adapt 
themselves to any soil. 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


11 


THE THREE CHIEF CHEMICAL ELEMENTS NECESSARY 
TO PROMOTE PLANT GROWTH 

Elements Add Whenever Affects Primarily, or 


NITROGEN (Ammonia) 
Sources: nitrate or sulphur 
amonium sulphate 
amonium nitrate, 
calcium nitrate, etc. 
Manure 

POTASH (Potassium) 
Sources: Wood ashes 
Manure 

Muriate of Potash 
Sulphate of potash, 
etc. 

PHOSPHORUS 
(Phosphoric Acid) 

Sources: Superphosphate 

(Apply in Spring) 
Bonemeal 
(Apply in Fall) 
Manure 


Foliage and stems are lacking 
in color, pale. 

General growth stunted. 

Oversupply: Weakens and in¬ 
creases susceptibility to 
disease, etc. 

Foliage and stems poor. 

Fruit undeveloped. 

Oversupply: Delays ripening 
sometimes causes burns. 

To be available must be solv¬ 
able. 


Flowers scarce, or poor. 

Insufficient roots. 

In dry seasons add to soil 
Oversupply: No ill effects. 


Leaf-growth. 

Rapidity of growth. 

Increases size of bloom when 
applied to plants in bud. 

Healthy green, color of leaf 
and stem. 

Fruitation. 

Texture of plant. 

Is the disease-resistant ele¬ 
ment. 

Contributes to brilliance of 
color. 

Important for root-growth. 

Root-growth. 

Flowers. 

Seed development and matur¬ 
ity. 

Hastens maturity. 

Improves quality, durability. 

Stiffens stems, produces 
hardiness. 


IV. SOIL FOR HOUSE PLANTS 

The general proportion of required ingredients for rich, well- 
balanced soil for pot-plants is a mixture of: 

% garden soil .. . % humus, or leaf-mold ... % peat moss. 

% sand and complete fertilizer mixed in equal parts, except when the garden 
soil is of a markedly sandy nature. 

Some plants—acid-lovers—thrive in peat-moss, alone. 

Information regarding the culture of house plants may be se¬ 
cured from books dealing with indoor gardening. 

V. THE THREE TYPES OF SOIL 

All soils have been grouped under three large general classes, 
determined by whether the specific base is lime or .its antithesis, 
acid; or a balance of the two. This latter is termed neutral soil and 
is best for most flowers and vegetables. The intensity of acidity or 
alkalinity (lime) depends on the character of the soil, from what 


Neutral 

Soil 


12 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Soil 

Analysis 


Acid 

Localities 


Value of 
Lime 


Alkaline 

Soils 


kind of rock it is derived, as well as its subsoil and its degree of 
friability. Any soil may be made neutral by adding five pounds of 
lime to a bale of peat-moss and working this into the soil. Epsom 
Salts, also, has a neutralizing effect. Instead of peat-moss, certain 
products made from sugar cane are most effective and satisfactory. 

Soil Analysis: 

In order to determine exactly what is lacking, chemically, to 
insure productivity, a soil analysis by the litmus-paper test is often 
of great value. However, generally speaking, this is not necessary, 
except when one desires to grow a lime-loving plant in acid or 
neutral soil or vice versa (for in the classification of plant-life, 
there are many that demand a certain soil or will flourish only in 
one or the other of the three specific types). 

Acid soil is usually sandy loam, light colored, usually shades of 
yellow to reds, although the highest degree of acidity is to be found 
in those low lands that are often inundated. One of the chief 
agencies for overcoming this condition is the use of lime, the 
hydrated or burnt forms, obtainable at the building supply dealers, 
being the most convenient to use. 

Where lime .is needed, apply before cultivating. If applied at the 
same time as manure it counteracts the desired results. Lime acts, 
also, as a "tonic”—often releasing other needed elements that re¬ 
main dormant without its agency. In many instances it acts as an 
insecticide and fungicide, too. 

Where drainage is poor and the soil soured, or on small areas 
where plants have been grown in profusion and the soil made acid 
by the decomposed vegetation, lime can be used sparingly to cor¬ 
rect this condition. 

Attention must be called to the fact that lime should never be 
used at the same time that intensive fertilizers or manures are 
employed. 

In the major part of the Southwest and certain specific areas of 
the South and Southeast, there is little occasion to use lime where 
the structural composition of the soil is largely decomposed lime- 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


13 


stone. These, the brown, certain greys, and black soils, are known 
as “sweet” or alkaline, the degrees or shade of dark color being 
dependent on the amount of certain specific salts that are pre¬ 
dominant. 

All these salts (sodium chloride, s. carbonate, s. sulphate, s. 
nitrate, calcium sulphate, calcium chloride, calcium bicarbonate, 
magnesium sulphate) are white, yet where there is a predominance 
of sodium carbonate the soil ,is rich, black, greasy in appearance. 

A predominance of the nitrates produces brown (color) alkali soil, 
while the predominance of sulphates and chlorides is indicated in 
the white alkaline soils. 

It is readily understood, therefore, why products of calcium 
(lime) and sodium (soda, especially sodium nitrate) tend to reduce 
acidity. 

Chemical sulphates generate acidity while the muriates create 
or increase alkalinity tendencies. 

Acid Soil Bed — Preparation: 

In heavily impregnated lime soil those plants that object to Erne 
must have an area especially prepared for them. Consult landscape 
authorities for specific needs. 

To prepare the ground and to prevent the seepage of water 
carrying lime from the surrounding earth into the acid-bed, line 
the bottom of the two-foot excavation with at least three inches of 
gravel and cinders, and the wall with cement or bricks. Place 
over the cinders alternate layers of six inches of oak leaves and four Acid Bed 
inches of sand, leaving a layer of sand at the top. Over this scatter 
one-half pound of aluminum sulphate to each square yard. Keep 
wet until the leaves have rotted, stirring every two weeks, taking 
care not to disturb the cinders. After the mixture has remained 
21-28 days, test the soil for acidity (by submerging a blue litmus 
paper in the bed for thirty minutes). If the paper turns red, it ,is 
the right degree for acid-loving plants (See p. 68.) 

Another method is to place alternate layers of garden soil and 


14 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Fertilizer 
for Acid-Soil 
Bed 


hardwood shavings or chip-loam and sand over the cinders, giving 
the same treatment as above. 

The following proportion of fertilizers will be found correct for 


an acid bed, generally (consult local chemists): 

5 parts cottonseed meal .10 pounds 

3 parts super phosphate or rock phosphate , 

finely ground (acid phosphate) . . 4 pounds 

2 parts sulphate of potash .2 pounds 

2 parts aluminum sulphate .2 pounds 


Mix thoroughly and add lightly to peat moss. Apply ratio one 
pound to every four square yards. Water to soak it into the soil, 
taking care not to let fertilizer touch tips of branches, or stems. 

Products of sulphur and sulphates (of ammonia, etc.) increase 
acidity. Sulphur is slow acting (as bonemeal for lime areas), and is 
recommended to be applied at ratio of 2 lbs. to every 10 square 
feet. 


Acid Water Formula: 

Limestone or "sweet” water can be made acid by dissolving one 
heaping tablespoonful of aluminum sulphate or solution of tannic 
acid to one gallon of water, applying every two or three weeks, 
thoroughly saturating the ground. 

PREPARATION OF AREAS FOR PLANTING 


BEDS 

For specific details of how to prepare the soil for: 

Perennials (See page 82) Annuals (See page 123) 

Delphinium (See page 92) Lilies (See page 156) 

Roses (See page 201) Bulbs (See page 147) 

T renching: 

Many people have found that the preparation of a long border 
or other large space for planting is most easily accomplished by a 
method known as "trenching.” 

If underdrainage is necessary (as with clay and some of the 
heavier soils) the depth of the subsoil to be removed will be down 


Drainage 




CONSIDER THE SOIL 


15 


to about five feet below the surface level and broken tile, brick, 
cinders or some such material be put in for drainage. However, if 
the area is well drained, the subsoil need only be excavated about 
two feet. 

The first step in trenching is to mark off the area to be prepared 
into sections—the most easily handled being two-foot sections— 
and remove the topsoil, placing it in a pile apart, because all of it is 
used in preparing a flower bed. 

If the subsoil thereby exposed is sand, remove some of it (about 
one-third) and add clay, humus or barnyard manure, forking all 
well into a loose texture. If it is clay (whether red, brown or black- 
waxy) it must be thoroughly broken up to a depth of three to five 
feet (dependent on drainage requirements), part removed and the 
remaining lightened with sand, sifted coal ashes and humus, fork¬ 
ing the barnyard manure well into the mixture. If it is very stony, 
it must all be removed, and the correct mixture of sand, clay, 
humus and manure, so necessary to plant growth, be substituted. 
The amount of ingredients to be added varies with the texture of 
the subsoil, the desired tilth being comparable to the crumbly con¬ 
dition of a ball of earth, which if squeezed tightly while moist, will 
fall apart when released. 

The food values in the subsoil being dormant and incapable of 
assimilation by the plant until released by the action of the elements 
—sun, light, air, water, etc.—it .is most important to spade and 
separate its particles thoroughly, and then to insure its remaining 
an available food-sources by the recommended addition of sand and 
humus. 

When the subsoil has been thoroughly prepared, the next step 
is carefully to pulverize the topsoil and enrich it by the addition of 
sufficient manure, sand, clay and humus to bring it to the standard 
of good garden loam. As with the topsoil, this varies according to 
its general character and when correct will meet the requirements 
for an ideal 1 soil. 


Sections 


Treatment 
of Subsoil 


Subsoil 

Dormant 


Treatment of 
Topsoil 


16 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Barren Spots: 

Where nothing will grow, try spading up the soil; then pile and 
burn on the spot a fair-sized quantity of leaves, twigs and rubbish 
(to sterilize the ground by fire and to fertilize it by the minerals 
contained in the wood-ash and bits of charcoal thus obtained). 
Spade again thoroughly; adding barnyard (or commercial) ferti¬ 
lizer. Then plant. Almost everything will now grow in the spot! 

Suggested treatment to enrich difficult 

Clay Soil —Spade deep and apply about six inches of manure. Spade 
it in well. A generous amount of straw in the manure is advised. Add land 
plaster or gypsum (at the ratio of 15 pounds per 100 square feet) and 
mix well. Give final top-dressing of air-slaked lime (ratio: 10 pounds per 
100 square feet). Stir well every two to three weeks. To pulverize stub¬ 
born clay try one sack of lime to 40 by 50 foot areas. Chopped tobacco 
stems help to loosen, to supply humus, and act as a fertilizer as well as a 
preventive fungicide or insecticide. 

Sandy Soil —Apply about ten inches of cow manure (or green 
manure, such as peas, vetch, or rye) and turn under well. Work in land 
plaster or gypsum (ratio: 10 pounds per 100 square feet) and after this is 
well spaded in mix in lime (ratio: 5 pounds per 100 square feet). Never 
leave sandy soil bare to the elements. Rye broadcast in the fall will enrich 
when turned under in the spring when about two inches high. 

1 See opening paragraph. 













CONSIDER THE SOIL 


17 


^Manures and Fertilisers 

HOW PLANTS EAT 

O'INCE only a small percentage of a plant’s food is derived 

^_ J from the earth (approximately two per cent only) the 

major part being assimilated from the elements (water, heat, sun 
and air) it is very essential that correct soil conditions be main¬ 
tained. An abundance of strength-giving properties may be present 
in the soil, yet not available for the plant’s use until they have been 
put into soluble form or released by the chemical action of organic 
matter. This latter is largely contributed by the use of barnyard 
manures, leguminous green manures, and commercially prepared 
fertilizers. 


I. ORGANIC FERTILIZERS 
A. Green Manures 

Books on soil deal largely with the use of green manures which 
consist of the growing of certain leguminous crops that, when 
plowed into the ground, furnish specific qualities to the soil. But 
the flower gardener has little opportunity of resorting to this means 
of fertilization, because of the desire to have the garden always 
beautiful, therefore objects to giving a whole season to replenishing 
the soil. 


B. Barnyard Manures 
Apply Manures Before Spading 

In building up a soil to a desired condition, barnyard manure is 
of equal value in the garden as it is over large areas. It is considered 
of inestimable value because it contributes much more than just 
the chemicals it so generously supplies. Its decomposed vegetable 
matter adds all those good qualities desired from humus, making 
the soil mellow, helping it retain moisture and releasing those life- 
giving qualities that lie latent. 


18 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


1. HOT MANURES: 

All barnyard manures are not alike in quality. Those that are 
classed as "hot manures,” which will burn the roots of young 
plants when fresh, must be used sparingly. It is best to allow them 
to decompose for at least six months before using. 

a. Poultry: 

Of these, poultry manure is richest in nitrogen, but should be 
used with greatest care. Containing no straw or decomposed vege¬ 
table) matter, wood ashes and sand added to it benefit the soil 
greatly when used judiciously. 

b. Horse: 

Horse manure is also hot. It is low in phosphorus, therefore com¬ 
mercial phosphates or bonemeal should be added, yet it ranks high 
in nitrogen. 

c. Rabbit: 

Rabbit manure is extremely high in all three chemicals necessary 
to plant growth. It is exceedingly hot, therefore demands the great¬ 
est care in using. 

2. cool manures: 

a. Cow and Pig Manures: 

Cow and pig manures are cool and are lower in nitrogen. They 
are especially desirable to use in sand, because their non-heating 
qualities are not detrimental to germinating seed. 

b. Sheep Manure: 

Sheep manure is one of the best barnyard manures to use because 
it is cool and yet ranks next to poultry manure in its nitrogen 
content. It, too, is low in phosphorus, therefore the addition of 
bonemeal makes it a more balanced plantfood. 

3. PROPORTION TO USE: 

Generally the required amount of barnyard manure to be forked 
into the garden soil may be estimated at one wheelbarrow load to 
every two square yards, or a three-inch depth forked in for three 
successive springs, while adding five ( 5) pounds of superphosphate 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


19 


for each one hundred (100) square feet (or one-quarter of a 
poundi per square foot) being also very beneficial. 

C. Liquid Manure 

The most effective way of hastening and increasing a plant’s 
development is by the use of that concentrated plantfood known 
as "liquid manure.” This is made by suspending a sack of fresh or 
dried animal manure in a barrel or keg of water (which preferably 
has a spigot at the bottom). A five-gallon container, filled one- 
third with barnyard manure to which is added water to the level 
of capacity—allowed to soak at least two days, stirring two or more 
times daily, will be the desired strength to be "watered in.” This 
solution must be diluted to the color of weak tea. Apply near the 
roots (preferably at least three inches from the stalk) of plants 
after they have been thoroughly watered, then water again after 
applying the liquid manure. (See p. 94.) 

Liquid manure is of especial value to plants, in every type of 
soil, applied just before the blooming season, not during season. 

Chemical liquid manure is made by combining the following 
ingredients: 

1 level teaspoonful of nitrate of soda 

1 heaping tablespoonful of superphosphate 

1 teaspoonful of nitrate of potash 

2 gallons of water 

Apply ration to each plant: 1 pint per plant every two to three weeks. 

II. INORGANIC FERTILIZERS 

Many people advocate the use of commercial fertilizer because 
it does not introduce weeds, undesirable grasses, worms, etc., but in 
heavier soils it must have ground peat (or some similar loosening 
element) used in combination with it. However, where the soil has 
reached a desired tilth, commercial fertilizer can be of great value, 
although its benefits usually do not last more than a season. Gen¬ 
erally speaking, the amount to use is about one pound to every 
twenty square feet. 


Amount 
to Use 


20 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Contents 


Formulas 


Bonemeal 


Correctly used, commercial (inorganic) fertilizers are very valu¬ 
able, being plantfood in highly concentrated form. There is danger 
of injury to plants by over-stimulation, which is less apt to be the 
case with organic food-material. These latter (manures, etc.) have 
the added value of “conditioning* the soil by their humus content 
(lacking in inorganic fertilizers) in addition to supplying nutri¬ 
ment. Perhaps highest in nutritive value is dried blood, but its 
odor ,is most offensive. 

All commercial fertilizers are composed of materials that con¬ 
tain varying proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. To 
use them to the best advantage, the specific requirements of the 
soil to be enriched must be understood, that its deficiencies may 
be overcome. Treatises on soil give a number of interesting methods 
of determining what is lacking, called “soil tests,” but a general 
knowledge of the character of the prevailing type of soil makes 
this rather difficult work usually unnecessary. 

Commercial fertilizers are sold under many trade names. The 
best grades state an analysis of the content formula on the outside 
of the package, usually designated by a set of numerals thus, 6:8:4 
means there are six parts of nitrogen, eight parts of phosphorus 
and four parts of potash (nitrogen, phosphorus and potash always 
being given ,in the order named) presenting at a glance the in¬ 
formation desired. 

Bonemeal is forty per cent lime, therefore in using it know the 
type of soil to which it is to be added. Superphosphate is bonemeal 
in soluble form, with additional plantfood value. 

Generally speaking, commercial fertilizers should be applied in 
February or the first part of March to obtain the maximum results. 
For ordinary needs 4:8:4 or 4:12:4 are the correct ratios, applied 
at the rate of 100 pounds per 60 x 60 feet for large areas (lawns, 
etc.), or a dessert-spoonful scattered in a circle three to four inches 
from a plant and scratched in to the depth of two to three inches— 
then water. This will protect the rich food from “burning. ,, Large 
plants, even shrubs and trees, do not require fertilization to a 




CONSIDER THE SOIL 


21 


greater depth than an augur-hole six to seven inches filled with 
4:12:4 and watered in. (See p. 61.) 

Cottonseed hulls, or meal, are excellent in food values, but care 
should be taken never to apply hulls, especially, independent of the 
correct degree of nitrogen accompanying them. 

Tobacco dust, or chopped stems, scattered once or twice a year 
is recommended. 

Plants require loose, well pulverized soil and drainage. 

As weeds sap the soil of its phosphoric acid and assist in "pack¬ 
ing,” their removal loosens the texture, yet requires the addition 
of phosphorus to recondition the food values in the soil to their 
correct ratios. This is most readily achieved by the application of 
commercial fertilizer. 

Oklahoma —"If the phosphorus content of the soil is increased by fertilization, if lime 
is applied where it is needed, and if the organic matter content of the soil is maintained 
by the use of cottonseed meal or well-rotted farm manures, the probability of plant-food 
becoming a limiting factor in the growth of plants is very unlikely to occur. A good 
complete fertilizer for plants in Oklahoma would be 4-8-6, or 4-12-4, which is com¬ 
monly used on potatoes or truck crops. The rate of application of this material should be 
about one to two pounds per hundred square feet of soil. In case of shrubs where the area 
is usually irrigated, a handful for each plant will give very good results.”— Horace J. 
Harper, Professor of Soils, Oklahoma A. & M. College, Still-u/ater, Oklahoma. 

III. SOME FEEDING NOTES 

Azaleas, Camellias and other acid-loving plants—as well as some 
which prefer neutral soil (such as rose)—enjoy a generous feeding 
—5 parts cottonseed meal to 3 parts Superphosphate and 2 parts 
Sulphate of Potash thoroughly mixed. One to eight handfuls 
around each plant—depending on size of bush—seldom is more 
than one handful ever needed. 

Chrysanthemums. (See page 94.) 

Dahlias and Cannas in hot weather appreciate a generous drink 
of one heaping tablespoonful of nitrate of soda dissolved in two 
gallons of water—soak the ground around each plant thoroughly 
once a month—as they require a minimum of nitrogen , during 
bloom season every two weeks a feeding of one ounce per plant of 
10 parts superphosphate to two parts muriate of potash and one 
part manganese sulphate. They will produce huge blossoms if dis- 


22 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


branched to joint nearest main stalk on each lateral branch as it 

appears (see also page 166). They relish bonemeal also. 

Gladioli coming into bloom need some enriching as Hydrangeas, 
but do not over water. The Primulinus hybrids are best adapted to 
heat and drouth. 

Hydrangeas—soil should at all times be kept loose and reason¬ 
ably moist. When blooming, demand rich food, therefore add 
fertilizer (well-rotted manure, bonemeal, nitrate of soda , etc.) 

Peonies that fail to bloom perhaps are set too deep. (See page 
166.) 

Roses—see page 202. 

Iris—Fertilize with superphosphate. 

Primroses and Bleeding Heart require l /i leaf mold. Sow seed 
from garden three days after gathering. 

Do not feed Wisteria. 

Grass—in the dormant season a generous spreading of fertilizer 
over the lawn will usually be watered in by the rains and give 
astonishing results. But if the season is dry, water it in. Burning 
grass off lawns and lots is a mistake, and is most injurious to the 
root-system, as well as unsightly. Burning destroys many desirable 
wild plants, too, for many lovely wild flowers require proximity of 
other plants, especially grass, to live. Where there are weeds in the 
lawn, it is an indication of impoverished soil. Aereate (by sticking 
fork here and there) to loosen compactness. 

Bermuda Grass is most dependable for the "blacklands,” African 
Bermuda being the finer-textured variety. Blue Grass is used in 
the lime areas of the "Old South’*; while a mixture of grasses is 
recommended for other soil conditions. "St. Augustine” will grow 
in shade, but requires rich soil, much water, constant mowing and 
is coarse-textured ("Centipede” being its fine-textured variety). 
These latter will not survive great amounts of cold. 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


23 


J Moisture 

yHE fertility of the soil is controlled to a great extent, also, by 
—/ the amount of moisture it is capable of retaining, which, in 
turn, depends greatly on the composition and texture of the soil, 
itself, for each of its component grain-particles is, under usual cir¬ 
cumstances that support growth of vegetation, surrounded by a 
thin film of moisture. The larger these particles are, the less water 
they will retain, because the nature of loose soil does not admit of 
freedom of capillary movement. 

Underlying almost all soils at varying depths is an accumulation 
of water, known as the "water-table”. From this reservoir an 
attraction of the film-water around the grain-particles of soil 
draws moisture up toward the surface, known as "capillary move¬ 
ment”. When the ground is left undisturbed, little tubes or "water- 
channels” are created, whereby moisture is the more rapidly 
brought to the surface and exhausted than when the soil is broken 
up by tillage (or frequent stirrings) which prevent these channels 
from forming. 

Chief among the other suggested methods for the conservation 
of moisture is mulching or surface covering with grass clippings 
that contain no grass-seed, straw, leaves, peat-moss, paper, saw¬ 
dust, etc., or in some cases, a surface-layer (from two to five 
inches) of very dry soil will act as a blanket to hold in the mois¬ 
ture. The depth of a mulch varies with the climatic conditions to 
be met. Yet, since it must be perfectly dry to be effective, usually 
the deeper it is, the greater will be its usefulness. In arid regions, 
mulching has ben found to be most successful, although it is 
questioned whether mulches other than dry soil are advisable where 
the pill-bugs or sow-bugs are prevalent as it will afford a harbor 
for them. 

WATERING 

Most plants need water frequently, even in winter—especially 
where there is a scarcity of rainfall. It is best, however, not to use 


Moisture 


in Soil 
Capillary 
Movement 
from the 
Water Table 


Mulches 


24 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


a sprinkler except for refreshing foliage (after a dust storm, etc.) 
as spraying water is apt to encourage fungus and destroy perfec¬ 
tion of blossom. 

Whenever the soil is dry to the depth of an inch, water is needed. 

Use the hose without nozzle, and moderate pressure, to avoid 
waste or serious disturbance of soil. Sub-irrigation and trench- 
watering, also, have proved successful methods, though somewhat 
expensive to install. 

If the water contains too much sulphur, lime, gypsum, or other 
chemicals injurious to plants—consult a chemist for an analysis 
and advice how to counteract the conditions. There usually is an 
inexpensive way that this trouble may be eliminated. 

For specific details on watering perennials (see page 82); annuals 
(see page 99); lilies (see page 157); roses (see page 201); semi-dry 
gardening (see page 237). 

Generally it is best not to water a drooping plant while the sun 
is still high—wait until it is low or sets—then soak (never sprinkle 
foliage) the earth thoroughly. 







Creating 


beautiful 

Surroundings 


IfUST as the careful selection of the proper design of the set- 
(y ting displays to the fullest the peculiar charm of a gem, so 
harmonious planting creates ideal coordination between house and 
grounds. Our homes may be likened to jewels whose value is deter¬ 
mined by perfection rather than by size, for some of the smallest 
are the dearest. There are a few whose outlines need only the 
simplest of design, while others will admit of more elaboration. 
Although each architectural style of house demands quite definite 
surroundings, yet all may be softened into an exquisite picture 
when blended by greens and toned by splashes of colorful flowers. 

Design in landscaping, presenting as it does both the simple and 
elaborate means for color expression, has been developed along two 
comprehensive, or general, lines—Formality and Informality—with 
particular reference to racial interpretations. These divisions are Divisions 
based largely on individual adaptation of life to climate and soil; 
falling readily into two main classes—those that are of geometrical 
precision, repetition, or design; or the simulation of a natural love¬ 
liness, which is apparently wholly unstudied. 

Just as each person differs from another, so does each race, or 
nation, and the gradual evolution of a typical architecture and 
treatment in the landscaping of their grounds, may be classified as 
racially decided and distinct. In past ages when law and order were 
non-existent, or lax, every man was forced to enclose against 
despoilers that which he treasured. Degrees of wealth determining 


Chief 


scaptng 


Racial 

Interpre¬ 

tations 


25 



26 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Latin 


Anglo- 

Saxon 


America 


the extent of his power to protect his possessions, the nature of his 
walled-in recreation spots varied in relative proportion. These 
earliest known gardens of Egypt, Persia, China, and the Far East, 
were, of necessity, small plots of green, with a bit of shade (a fruit 
or nut-tree, or a vine-covered arbor) with a tiny pool or fountain; 
designed for meditation and relaxation. 

Adapting this idea from the Great Moguls of the East, Spain, 
Italy and France have elaborated on it, producing racial varia¬ 
tions of the theme. The Italian characteristic is few blossoms on 
their triple-terraced vistas which emphasize reflected beauty of 
many shades, together with diversity of texture and height, in 
dominant green, mirrored in still pools that are bordered with occa¬ 
sional statues and inviting walks to quiet nooks. France is more 
architecturally inclined, adding numerous rest, or summer houses, 
and a variety of arbors. Their plants are clipped and forced into 
unnatural shapes and their vistas are more studied; while the 
Spanish interpretation more nearly follows the Oriental, with 
potted, blooming plants about a pool within their walled enclosures. 

The Anglo-Saxon passion for freedom and intense feeling for 
color—born, possibly, of their reaction to the dreariness and strug¬ 
gle for brightness during long, cold, grey winters—is clearly dem¬ 
onstrated in their gardens. Theirs was not a need for the coolness of 
a shaded nook or relief for the eye from the intensity and bril¬ 
liance of copper-hot sky. So, the inclusion of gay flowers into the 
garden in quantity was introduced by them. With the gradual 
awakening of appreciation for the beauties of Nature’s garden, in 
comparatively modern times, the Oriental, conventional, or formal 
garden is being rivalled today by the naturalistic or informal 
garden. 

The underlying needs of individual temperament are being rec¬ 
ognized, studied and met by adapting and combining ideas from 
East, West, North and South. In America a new type of garden .is 
being evolved. It has been suggested that perhaps our contribution 
to the theme will be our interpretation of the hillside garden (a 
developments which is distinctly ours) . . . down a gradual slope 


CREATING BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS 


27 


that has been planted to stimulate Nature at her loveliest, one is 
lured to a pool, a sunken garden, or sometimes to a formal rose 

garden. 

In the strong yellow glow of the Southwestern sunlight, pour¬ 
ing over rolling plains and hillsides in intensity for six to eight 
months of the year, the ideas of both the Orient and Europe must 
be altered and adapted to meet the specific needs. This climatic 
range which includes some of the features that both experience, 
makes the designs of each peculiarly applicable to their individual 
requirements. They like the sense of geometric order which is 
gotten from formal design, yet the temper of the people—that 
all-pervading cordiality, hospitality and geniality—will not admit 
of stiffness! They insist on that appropriate arrangement of 
grounds to house which, like one’s clothes, must fit, be becoming 
and in style! 

To secure this latter there are several important factors that 
everyone everywhere must consider carefully. Certain physical con¬ 
ditions must be recognized to insure perfection of detail and suc¬ 
cessful results. Such vital though general questions as the range 
of the temperature (heat and cold); the amount of moisture 
(natural or artificial); the quality of the soil; the exposure of the 
location; and the contour of the land, must be known and intel¬ 
ligently studied. 

Everyone must cope with these essentials, yet each gardener’s 
problem is different, due to the fact that the combination of these 
five factors is infinitely varied. Therefore, no decided rules can be 
given, although certain specific directions may be stated, and atten¬ 
tion be called to those established fines upon which the landscaping 
of a well-balanced, well-planned garden and grounds depend. 

Stress has too often been placed by landscape and garden experts 
upon creating the garden itself an example of landscaping per¬ 
fection, without enough thought having been paid to its specific 
place as merely a part of the whole picture of the buildings in 
relation to their surroundings. The design to be complete must 
present a pleasing effect when viewed on approaching the property, 


Southwest 


Physical 

Require¬ 

ments 


Information 

Needed 


28 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Appropriate 
Interpreta¬ 
tion of 
Buildings 
to Surround¬ 
ings 


Trees 


Shrubs 


yet offer small framed sketches from each of the various windows 
of the house. 

Much of the interrelationship of the building to the grounds and 
surroundings depends on the development of the natural lay of the 
land, and the utilization of whatever native growth there is on it. 
To this must be added those trees, shrubs and flowers which will 
satisfy its demands. Most enviable is that property which can boast 
large established trees, for these lend a charm nothing else can give. 
And yet even trees can be supplied, where desired, if one chooses 
wisely and has patience. 

Since a year lost in gardening can never be regained, it is wisest 
to follow a very definite plan of planting, taking care that in 
placing every tree and shrub, neither their shade nor their roots 
infringe on the flower garden; and choosing them for texture 
and color tone of leaf, in addition to variabilities in height and 
spread. 

Most Oaks, particularly the Live Oaks, demand a great spread 
and like the graceful Elms and Cedars are slow of growth. The 
stately Cottonwood (Popnlus Balsamifera) and Poplar-like Syca¬ 
more (Platanus, or Ficus Sycamorus) are both rapid in growth 
and share that exquisite beauty of the Birches—whiteness of limb 
emphasized by lovely light-green leaves. 

The Pecan (Carya) and Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) are 
both ornamental and nut-bearing. Honey Locust (Gleditsia 
triancanthus) , Redbud (Cercis) Catalpa, and the Flowering Desert 
Willow (Chilopsis linearis) are beautiful all the year round. 

Magnolias, though very slow of growth, amply repay with their 
showy, fragrant white blossoms and dark glossy foliage. Hack- 
berries, though quick-growing and hardy, are disease-carriers, and 
some of the Elms develop root-rot in lime-impregnated soil—the 
Cedar Elm being most resistant, therefore the most desirable of 
the Elms. 

Second in importance only to the trees are the shrubs. Of these 
a large increase in number and types has been contributed by the 
efforts of the late E. H. Wilson, famous horticulturist, keeper of 


CREATING BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS 


29 


the Arnold Arboretum, who brought into the United States great 
quantities of valuable plants from foreign lands, many of which 
have proved especially adaptable to the South. The variety and 
amazing range of choice offered by this large group of plants is 
most interesting. There are those which all during the spring and 
summer hold the admiration by their lovely flowers; yet most 
valuable indeed are those that keep their glossy green leaves dur¬ 
ing the winter or cheer with their brilliant berries and colorful 
stems. 

Shrubs are becoming more generally recognized, also, for the 
numerous uses to which they may be put. Together with running 
roses and perennials, they form a practically unchanging back¬ 
ground for a wide choice of colorful bedding plants, which may 
be varied each year in an unlimited number of combinations. Thus 
a cycle of blossoms paints ever new pictures against the sympathetic 
green of the background. 

By judicious placing, shrubs may shut in a secluded nook of rare 
beauty and capture that elusive privacy so treasured, or they may 
create a vista. Besides being a decorative feature of a landscape 
plan, a vista, particularly a long vista, is one of the most restful 
things in nature. It is wise, however, to have some definite point of 
interest at the end of the view. This focal point is usually a trel- 
lised arbor, a gate, a seat, a wall fountain or some structural garden- 
furnishing, rustic or classic in design, the choice of which depends 
on whether formality or informality has been chosen to be stressed. 

If one has a Spanish hacienda, one’s grounds will generally be 
landscaped with a more or less geometrical precision of balance and 
counterbalance in accordance with the accepted Spanish method 
of treatment of grounds and gardens. But if one owns a cottage or 
bungalow, informality .is often much the better taste, although it is 
not a requisite. 

Generally speaking, the plan or pattern of the flower garden 
should definitely conform to the architecture of the house, or be 
so screened from the buildings by plantings of hedges, as to present 
a complete picture within its own boundaries. The latter is espe- 


Combina- 

tions 


Nooks and 
Vistas 


Balance 
and Good 
Taste 


30 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


daily true of an all-rose garden, which practically demands formal 
design, irrespective of the treatment given the rest of the property. 

The fundamental principles of the art of landscaping emphat¬ 
ically state that to achieve the maximum results one must employ 
the secrets of good design coupled with correct planting, and 
choice of materials. The one is as essential as the other. The pat¬ 
tern will be glorified or ruined by the skill or ignorance used in 
handling the materials. 

All successful gardens—formal or informal—are built on a main 
or central axis, which usually centers with an exit (door or win¬ 
dow) from the home or building, its actual length being imma¬ 
terial, although its width is always a trifle greater than all other 
paths or vistas. At its terminus, there is usually some specific detail 
featured. On either side of this main axis the distribution of masses, 
open spaces or plantings, whether regular or irregular, must be so 
handled that there is a sense of effective proportioning of free and 
planted areas. 

Areas of less than a quarter of an acre do not often afford space 
for naturalistic treatment unless very irregular in outline, or treated 
extremely cleverly. Large places, ideally, give the effect of a clear¬ 
ing in the midst of the wilderness. 

Whether large or very tiny, a home may present the height of 
artistic expression. The garden and grounds can be as exquisite 
as a miniature on ivory, or as breath-takingly beautiful as Versailles 
or Hampton Court, for accomplishment of perfection depends 
largely on the skillful use of available materials, blended to a nicety 
of proportion, balance and symmetry. 


The Careen Frame 

of the (farden 

[ \ ] HEN the home grounds have been plotted, the next step is 
{/[/ the arrangement for skeleton planting, which should pro¬ 
vide a balanced, properly-proportioned framework around which 
the remaining planting may be grouped for form, symmetry, color 
and accent. This skeleton or framework is essentially composed of 
shrubs and trees. As this planting is more or less permanent, it 
should be most carefully considered. 

Gardeners learn from experience, but much loss of time and 
material may be saved by first making a plan on paper. 

Learn the soil requirements (whether lime, acid, neutral, sandy, 
moist or dry—whether in open sun or in semi-shade)—that the 
garden project will not end in disappointment and the plants in 
premature death, for should Azaleas and Rhododendrons be planted 
with Cacti and Yaupon sickness and death is inevitable! 

Those who build on a new or vacant lot should study the future 
position of the house, garage, and any auxiliary buildings that they 
may be grouped for most convenient service, using the minimum 
of ground, and above all to occupy the least and less desirable space 
for future planting. Also, take into consideration the outlook from 
the living and dining rooms, that the growing garden may be a 
picture from these windows during the greater part of the year. 
Some have suffered from a north exposure with the south garden 
a part of the kitchen outlook; or a driveway that fills a south and 
east side, when a north would have been more direct and released 
the better growing space to the south and east. 

Where massed arrangement is desired, the broad and narrow- 
leaved evergreens and conifers are essential, but beware of over¬ 
doing this branch of the scheme! Pause and consider the size, 


General 

Plan 


Outlook 


Evergreens 


31 


32 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Flowering 

Shrubs 


Harmony in 
Grouping 


As Accents 


Some 

Combi¬ 

nations 


spread, and height of each type of plant when permitted to attain 
perfection in mature growth and avoid crowding by ot^rplanting! 

However, their infinite variety in texture, form, color, and man¬ 
ner of growth adds definite interest and contributes a special beauty 
to the garden during the winter months, rendering evergreens 
indispensable. 

A portion of the garden should always be devoted to flowering 
shrubs of various kinds. Those of striking color, or texture of leaf 
or blossom, however, should be used sparingly, being especially 
valuable as accents in the general scheme of planting. All show to 
better advantage against green backgrounds. 

It is advisable, also, to consider carefully combinations and 
accents for harmonious grouping, for even in plants and blossoms 
many colors clash rather than harmonize. Flowering Willow* tip¬ 
ped with exquisite, orchid-like blooms is good for cutting and its 
finely divided leaves change the outline and massing of the more 
commonly used shrubs. Red-leafed Maple, and the maiden-hair- 
fern-like foliage of the Ginkgo-tree, well placed, make splendid 
accents. 

In May, the Tamarix* resplendent with long waving plumes of 
deep or pale pink, whose foliage is like sparse pine-needles, grows 
loosely and to some size. Crape Myrtle of various hues may be 
used with great success, is a splendid accent as well as useful as 
a single lawn specimen (if sharply pruned, the flowers will attain 
great size, otherwise the bush will increase in proportion and be 
a veritable bouquet of smaller panicles.) Robtnia hispid a (Rose 
Acacia) with its pink, pea-like clusters, is a fine specimen or accent 
plant. 

Try accenting the garden with evergreens—lowgrowing where 
needed, or tall erect Italian Cypress for the background. 

A Nandina placed near an Arbor Vitae or Arizona Cypress, dis¬ 
plays its magnificent color of leaf and berry! 

Some other combinations and accents for harmonious plant¬ 
ing are: Pink-flowering Peach, Lilac, and Kerria japonica — a 
charming early spring grouping. Deutzia gracilis and “Bridal 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


33 


Wreath” (Spirea), with early blue Iris and Narcissi, is a delight 
to the eye! Visualize Rosa Hugonis, the early-blooming, yellow 
shrub-rose, with blue Larkspur and deep purple Tulips! or Scotch 
Broom surrounded by Poppies! or Dwarf Iris under Forsythia bells! 

Later in the summer, Cassia floribundia * (Senna), easily grown 
from seed, forms a compact shrub covered with clusters of gor¬ 
geous yellow blooms that combine or contrast charmingly with 
various Altheas. Anisacanthus* another native, summer-blooming 
shrub bearing small orange, trumpet-flowers among shiny foliage, 
harmonizes delightfully with Buddleia (Summer Lilac) whose 
lovely lavender tone is prized in the late garden. 

The bush Honeysuckle (Lonicera) is a joy forever—laden with 
specimen-plant. Parkinsonia* growing almost to tree proportions, 
makes a splendid corner-accent, with its plumy foliage and yel¬ 
low flowers. Mimosa 5 *’ (Acacia or Albrizzia) with it dainty pink 
tufts and Poinciana * (Retama) with its handsome scarlet and 
yellow flowers have similar, feathery, willow-like foliage. 

Pomegranates, both tall and dwarf, make stunning spots in the 
garden, but must be planted where their very vivid blooms and 
fruits will not clash with surrounding colors. 

Citrus triofoliata (poncirus trifoliata) *, making an impenetrable 
barrier when used as a hedge, is beautiful ,in spring with it fra¬ 
grant shower of white blossoms, followed in autumn with small, 
decorative, yellow, orange-like fruits; and in winter its bare green 
branches and stems are not devoid of beauty. 

It is amazing how many of the most valued garden plants— 
including shrubs and trees—are native to Southwestern United 
States, the vast majority of these coming from Texas. Many of 
these have not yet reached to commercial nurseries, but wherever 
possible to secure them they prove much more adaptable (espe¬ 
cially to those localities that have a limited supply of water) to 
climatic conditions than plants from other lands, for generally 
they prefer the minimum of acidity in the soil in which they 
thrive for the mapor part of the soil of the Southwest is non-acid. 


As Accents 
or Specimen 


As a Barrier 


Native 


34 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 



The following groupings—including those native plants that 
have proved desirable for cultivation—have been assembled accord¬ 
ing to height, soil and moisture requirements, and to give a general 
description of each plant’s individual characteristics. 


I. 

Varying Heights 

Among the shrubs whose different varieties or species vary 

widely in height and character of growth, for a specific need one 

may choose ... 

EVERGREEN 

* Agave or Aloe ( Amaryllidaceae )—Rosettes of sword-like leaves, tall 
fl. stalks bearing bell-like cream or white blossoms. Desert, semi-arid 
regions. Increase by suckers, shoots from main root. 

Arbor Vitae (Thuja — Bioto — Pinaceae) —Narrow pyramid habit of 
growth. Prefers moist, loamy soil. Hardy. Transplant easily. Thuja 
orientalis Bakeri, green, best for lime soils. T .. aurea conspicua; glohosa; 
and orientalis compacta also are recommended, height 6-8 ft.; T.. 
Ramsey and T., Golden pyramidal 20-30 ft. The Chinese var. is said 
to be drought-resistant to a remarkable degree. This and T . . Ramsey 
have proved the most resistant to sudden climatic changes. 

Azalea—(See Rhododendron.) 

Cacti—Adapts self to poorest conditions, though relishes rich loam. Many 
var. with widely different habits, hues of blossoms (white, yellow, 
orange red, etc.). Native to Texas and Southwest. Prop, readily from 
div., seed, and cuttings. 

Euonymus —Hardy almost everywhere. E .. patens (climbing, spreading) 
turns yellow in fall; red berries. E .. atropurporea (Spindle tree) has 
blue berries. E .. coloratos leaves turn bronze. 

Ficus—Widely different types of foliage, and fruit delicious. Fig, Banyan 
tree, and Rubber plant are perhaps the best known species of this large 




THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


35 


family. Prop, readily from suckers or cuttings. Prefer moist, sheltered 
positions. Deciduous, sometimes winter-kill in northern sections. 

Holly (Ilex )—Many var. are evergreen, requiring moisture and neutral to 
acid soil. A few are deciduous, tolerating lime. All are valued for their 
red berries, prefer rich well-drained positions and prop, readily from cut¬ 
tings or seed. Blooms are small white or yellow fls. I .. vomitoria (Yau- 
pon), 7 . . decidua (’Possum Haw) and I . . opaca are native as far west 
as N. M. 7 .. verticillata (Black Alder), 7 .. glabra (Inkberry) and 
I . . Amelanchier are deciduous. I .. laevigata (Winterberry), I . . Cas- 
sine (Dahoon), 7 .. monticola becomes a tree. 7 .. myrtifolia ("Da- 
hoon”) are all native American hollies. When young or newly trans¬ 
planted all holly requires a great deal of water. Best to plant in Spring. 
(For Texas "Desert Holly” see Agarita —Berberis trifoliolata , not an 
Ilex.) 1 . . cornuta and 7 . . Burfordi (smooth lvs.; very large berries.) 
are both excellent. Secure all Ilex cutting-grown. 

Juniperus (Cedar—Junipers)—Perhaps the largest family having the 
widest range of types, hues and tones of foliage—ranging from low, 
wide-spreading shrubs to tall trees. Most of these thrive in all types of 
soil except adobe. /. . communis depressa is recommended for rock 
gardens. J .. Chinensis Neaboriensis has been acclimated in some sections 
of the adobe soil areas. /.. conferta is the Shore Juniper. /.. glauca is 
the Silver Cedar. /.. virginiana is the native Red Cedar, and of these 
there are many types of growth, color of foliage, berries and heights. 
/ . . Repens , J . . prostrata or horizontalis, J . . pfitzeriana (creeping 
varieties). /.. Cannarti and J ..Dundee (Upright, similar to Arbor 
Vitae) are excellent—also J . . Columnaris (green and grey var.) 

Ligustrum (Privet)—Perhaps our most satisfactory hedge material. Many 
types. Majority have dark green, shiny foliage and blue-black berries. 
There are both evergreen and deciduous varieties. Grow both in shade 
and full sun, in any soil. L . . vulgar e and L . . lucidum (Wax), L .. re - 
curvi folia (Crinkleleaf), L . . nanum com pactum (Lodense), L . . )apon- 
icum f L .. Reevesiana (Dwarf), L . . siniense (Chinese), L . . ovalifolium 
(California), and L.. amurense (Amoor River) are especially recom¬ 
mended. All grow readily from cuttings. L. . lucidum erectum (Up¬ 
right) withstands cold. 

Magnolia—Both evergreen and deciduous types. Dark green, waxy foliage. 
Handsome large fls., white and a number of shades of red and purple. 
Require rich soil and much water when newly transplanted or young 
plants. Plant in the Spring. Two native varieties, M .. grandiflora and 
M . . glauca (evergreen), very fragrant fls. (Sweet Bay). Prop, by graft¬ 
ing or seed. There are many deciduous trees, some tall, some dwarf. 
M . . Soulangeans (Tulip tree) has many showy hybrid varieties. M . . 
Michelia fuscuta (Banana shrub), evergreen in the south, prefers sandy 
soil with quantities of humus. 





36 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Mahonia (Oregon Grape) (Berber is )—Prefers humid soil. Foliage bril¬ 
liant in fall. Yellow fls. in conspicuous panicles in late spring. Requires 
shelter from sun. Mahonia Dealli will grow in dense shade. 

Palm (Palmetto )—Generally tropical in habit, though a few will with¬ 
stand 18° to 20°F. Nearly all must be prop, by seed, though a few by 
suckers. Some semi-hardy as far north as Arkansas. 

Ulex (Gorse—Furze—Whin)—Closely allied to Cytisus (Broom). Few 
leaves, handsome fls. yellow. Shiny dark green branches. Valuable binders 
for dry, sandy banks. Resent transplanting. Grow readily from seed 
sown in Spring. 

Yucca (Bracenaceae) —Sharp-pointed, stiff leaves in radiating rosettes. 
Handsome fl. stalk bearing white or creamy, bell-like blossoms. Inhabi¬ 
tant of the dry, hot, desert regions. "Spanish Dagger”, "Don Quixote’s 
Lance”, "Bear Grass”, "Adam’s Needles”, and "Saw-tooth Yucca”, or 
"Sotol” are among the most widely known varieties. 

DECIDUOUS 

Acacia (Mimosa)—Quick-growing, short-lived. Prefer even temperature, 
not too hot, and moderately rich leaf mold. Winter-kill in northern 
part of zone. A few will tolerate lime. Leaves feathery, fls. very fragrant 
white, pink, creamy or yellow balls in clusters. Attract bees, honey- 
source. Require water. Nine (9) native Texas varieties. A . . amentacea 
very tall and thorny. A .. berlandieri and A . . filicina (timbe) both 
thornless, ash-grey, with white fls. A .. Calliandra eriophylla has pink, 
reddish or purplish fls. A .. acuan Belutanum has white fls. A .. Fame - 
siana (Huisache) has yellow fls. and is also identified as A . . leptophylla, 
especially used as perfume essense. A . . Greggi (Mimosa tree, Devil’s 
Claw) has pink fls. and prefers semi-arid region. A . . roemeriana 
(Round-flowered Catsclaw) has yellow fls. and is very thorny. A . . 
arabica or Drummondti (Gum Arabic tree) is sometimes classed as a 
var. of A . . Farnesiana, source of gum Arabic and other products of 
the perfume industry. A .. acapulcensis, extremely fast-growing with 
yellow fls. is the Lower Valley of Texas, and tender. 

Almond, Flowering (Prunus communis japonica )—Grows rapidly nearly 
everywhere. Pink and white fls. very decorative. P. . triliba secure 
cuttings grown. 

Black Haw—See Viburnum. 

Broom (Cytisus scoparius )—Scotch Broom for seashore planting. Prefers 
moisture and acidity. Fine, slender stem-foliage dark or bright green. 
Handsome yellow fl. clusters. Bean-like seed pods. 

(Genista) —Spiny, needle-like foliage, green stems. Rapid growth. Yel¬ 
low pea-like fls. jn spring. Very attractive. 

Cherry, Flowering (Prunus serulata, etc.)—Prefers neutral, rich soil. 
Foliage varies from pale to rich green. Lovely pale pink and white fls. 








THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


37 


Cotoneaster—Dense in growth. Showy bright red fruit. White fls. Re¬ 
quires fairly sheltered position. Rather slow-growing. Evergreen in south. 

Crabapple, Flowering (Pyrus floribunda) —Hardy. Fls. rose or rose-red 
in abundance. Showy rather small leaves. 

Deutzia—Fls. fragrant, white or rose-pink. Some varieties require semi¬ 
shelter. 

Eleagnus (Russian Olive) (Oleaster) —Hardy, Widespread. Attractive 
fruit. Handsome wooly foliage. Fragrant yellow flowers. 

Forsythia (Golden Bell) —Bell-like, yellow flowers in early spring.'Deep 
green foliage on graceful, showering sorays. F .. viridissima is more bush- 
form than the other weeping forms. 

Honeysuckle (Lonicera) —Grows everywhere. Medium-sized, light green 
leaves. Blossoms very fragrant, cream-white or yellow, pinkish and coral. 
Of the several bush forms the early spring L.. fragrantissima and 
L . . Maacki (valued for its scarlet fruit) are recommended; the lovely 
coral L . . sempervirens (Scarlet Trumpet) is native to Texas and L . . 
periclymenum Belgica is very fragrant and showy red and yellow fls. The 
variegated gold and green leaves of the L . . japonica aureo reticulata are 
handsome, though slow of growth. 

Jasmine (Jessamine )—Erect or semi-climbing shrubs. Fragrant fls. cream- 
white and yellow. Readily grown from cuttings. /.. nudiflorum pro¬ 
duces waxy yellow fls. on bare branches. J .. humile (Italian) has dark 
green foliage and is a free bloomer. J . . Sambac (“Grand Duke”) is 
very double-flowered, white, intensely fragrant fls. /. . primulinum 
(Primrose) drooping foliage and golden-yellow fls. The “Carolina Jas¬ 
mine” is not a Jasmine but is Gelsemium Loganiaceae .. . The True Jas¬ 
mine is /. . officinale, the jasmine of poetry. The “Nightblooming Jas¬ 
mine” is not a Jasmine but is Oestrum nocturnum, and the Daybloom¬ 
ing is C. . diurnum . The “Cape Jasmine” is a Gardenia, the dwarf var. 
of it being G . .radicans. The “Confederate Jasmine” is a Trachelos- 
permum jasminoides, also known as the “Star Jasmine.” 

Lilac (Syringa or Philadelphus)—About thirty species from Europe and 
Asia, having fls. of many shades of violet, red, and white. Prefer mod¬ 
erately rich moist soil. Usually prop, by cuttings or shoots. Flower- 
panicles all fragrant. 

Lonicera—See Honeysuckle. 

Malvaviscus (Red Mallow, “Turk’s Cap”)—Brilliant crimson fls. Large, 
broad lvs. velvety. Tubular fls. similar to hibiscus. Tender. Prefers rich, 
slightly acid soil. Fr. red apple-like and edible. M . . Drummondii native 


38 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


to Texas and M .. arboreus domestica may be trained as a specimen- 
plant. Make good flowering informal hedges on the Gulf Coastal regions. 

Mock Orange—(See Below). 

Philadelphus (Mock Orange) (Sweet Syringa)—Extremely hardy. Pre¬ 
fers deep rich, moist loam and semi-protection from sun. White single, 
rose-like fls. very fragrant, similar to orange blossoms. P .. serpyllifolius 
is native as far west as New Mexico. Prop, by hardwood cuttings or suck¬ 
ers. Significant fact they generally begin blooming in June, remarkable 
for this characteristic. The Mock Orange of the South (native) much 
prized evergreen with black fruit is the Prunus caroliniana. The Pittis- 
porum undulatum is another Mock Orange valued for hedges; while the 
Citrus trifoliata (Otaheite Orange) has a mawkish taste and has lemon¬ 
like fls. and fruit. The Osage Orange (Bois D’Arc, M achura) is some¬ 
times called Mock Orange, too. All are excellent hedge or screen material. 

Poinciana (Caesalpina) ("Bird-of-Paradise”)—Prefers rich, though acid 
loam. Prop, readily from seed. Thrives on gulf coast. Will live in poor 
soil. Foliage lacy. Fls. scarlet and yellow. Rapid growth. Blooms from 
spring to fall. Called also "Mexican Spider Flower” from resemblance to 
spider lilies. 

Pomegranate ( Punica) —Ornamental, bright red fruit among bright 
green lvs. Orange-red fls. Prop, from cuttings. Resirable for hedges. 
Hardy. Many shoots. 

Pyracantha (Firethorn) ( Cotoneaster )—Bright red fruit, or orange-red. 
Upright and spreading var. P . . yunnanensis (Dwarf), P . . coccinea 
Lalandii (Bush) and P . . coccinea (Red berries). All have white flowers. 

Rhus (Sumac)—Handsome foliage, brilliant in fall. Fruit-spikes purple, 
red or reddish brown in fall. Prop, by seed or cuttings. Many varieties, 
a few are semi-evergreen. Most var. grow well in dry, poor soil. Poison 
Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Elder (Sumac) are of this family. The Stag¬ 
horn Sumac is most ornamental. R . . vivens relieves asthma when 
smoked with tobacco. R . . verniciflua produces lacquer and is very 
poisonous. R . . cotinoides appears to be grey smoke when seen at a dis¬ 
tance, its grey plume-like bunches of fruit giving it the name of Smoke 
Tree, or Smoke Bush. It is the Chittim-Wood of the Bible. R . . lanceo- 
lata yields a black dye especially used for coloring wool, and R . . trilo- 
bata yields the yellow dye, also was used for arrowshafts by the Indians. 
All these except the lacquer var. are native to Texas, including many 
others, giving a wide choice within this single family. 

Sophora—The name is Arabic for tree with pea-like flowers. S . . affinis* 
(Eve’s Necklace) a small, round-headed tree-shrub has white fls. tinged 
with rose. S . . japonica (Pagoda Tree) fls. are yellowship white, also in 
long racemes; while S .. secundiflora * has violet-blue, very fragrant 



THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


39 


clusters. S .. affibis has seed pods that are black beaded. S .. Japonica has 
quite long pods and both fls. and fr. yield a yellow dye. S .. secundia- 
flara has white pods with scarlet beans which contain a poisonous alka¬ 
loid, sophorine. All are handsome, tree-like with dark green foilage and 
branches; thrive in well drained, sandy, rather dry loam. 

Spirea—Prefers moderately moist, neutral to acid (peaty) soil. Some var. 
will tolerate lime. All have graceful habit of growth, profuse bloom of 
white, rose-pink or carmine fls, in corymbs or panicles. Rather small, 
delicate foliage. Prop, by cuttings, shoots or seed. The early blooming 
are S . . Thunbergii and S .. prunifolia (Bridal Wreath), followed by 
S.. Van Hoiittei. The best known, summer-blooming pink var. is 
S . . Anthony Waterer. S . . reevesiana (double and single) is preferable 
to S . . V anhouttei. 

Syringa—See Lilac, or Philadelphia. 

*Tamarix (Salt Cedar)—Adapted to dry land conditions and alkaline 
soils, also thrive near seashore. Prop, by seed or cuttings. Showy panicles 
or racemes of plume-like rose-pink or whitish fls. Fine, graceful foliage, 
light-green. Slender branches. T .. gallica, exceedingly drought-resistant, 
is native in Texas and N. M. Along the gulf coast is planted as wind¬ 
breaks. T . . odessena fls. are deeper rose than most of the other varieties. 
Root system largely surface-feeding, shallow. 

Viburnum—Popular namej for the very distinct var. include Snowball, 
Bush Cranberry, Guelder Rose, Arrow-wood, Nannyberry, Wayfaring 
Tree, Dockmackie, and the Black Haw native of Texas (V. . pruni- 
folium). Some var. are evergreen. All are upright, rather large compact 
shrubs or small trees. Foliage shiny, brilliant in fall. Fruit berry-like or 
oblong red, dark blue or black. Habitat of most is along water courses 
in edge of thickets. Fls. fragrant clusters of white or pinkish color. 
V . . rhytidophyllum is one of the hardiest, with crinkly lvs. V .. odor - 
atissimum is particularly recommended for the Valley, Tex.) and lower 
South. 

Weigelia ( Diervilla) —Erect, free-flowering pink, delicately marked 
white, yellow, and shades of red. Prefers rich, humid loam although 
some var. require sandy or peaty loam. Of spreading habit. D . . lonicera 
is our southern native. 

Willow ( Salix) —The Willow and the Eucalyptus are indispensable in the 
north and south portions—the one supplanting the other according to 
climatic conditions. Most Willows are rapid-growing trees or shrubs, 
with long slender branches and lvs. Their catkins are ornamental and 
the color of the wood in winter most attractive. Most require moisture, 
although S . . humilis* (Prairie Willow) and S .. rostrata* prefer dry 
soil. S . . discolor , the "Pussy Willow” grows almost everywhere though 
is not native in the Southwest. S. . nigra (Black Willow) * being the 


40 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


commonly known and grown var. while S.. Wrightii with the shrub 
varieties (S .. amygdaloides "Peach-Leaf Willow/* and S .. Iongifolia* 
and S.. taxafolia) * grow on the upper Rio Grande and westward, as 
well as along streams throughout Texas. S. . babylonica (Weeping 
Willow) grows anywhere there is sufficient moisture. All may be prop, 
by cuttings or seed. The Desert Flowering Willow is not a Salix but is 
Chilopsis linearis —valued for its clusters of lovely pink-lavender, bell¬ 
shaped flowers borne in summer. 




THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


41 


II 

Low-Growing . .. Creeping . . . Spreading 

Up to three (3) feet in height . 

EVERGREEN 

*Agarita ("Agrito”) ( Berberis ) ("Desert Holly”)—Stiff, shiny foliage; 
fis. tiny, very fragrant, golden yellow. Berries red, blue or white. Good 
for hedges. Prefers dry, rocky hillsides. Transplant in November or 
December. Berries used for jelly and wine. FIs. attract bees. Roots and 
stems used to make yellow dye. B .. re pens, B .. swasyi and B . . tri folio - 
lata are native to Texas. Holly-like, greyish fol. very attractive. 

* Apache Plume (Fallugia paradoxia )—Small lvs. on slender, spreading 
branches. Rose- or apple-like, milk-white fls. Reddish plumose fruit. 
Prefers lime and semi-arid regions. Native to Southwest, hardy as far 
north as Massachusetts. Prop, readily by seed. 

Thuja orientalis ducidate , or Tetinispora leptoclada (Taxus canadensis ) 
Yew—Arbor Vitae-like lvs. Attains about 2 ft. height. Prefers lime and 
semi arid hillsides; while Taxus prefers moist, sandy loam and has berry¬ 
like fruit. Both are widespreading and slow growing, and short-lived. 
Taxus will endure semi-shade. 

Note: See list of shrubs having varieties of varying heights for details and 
description of other low shrubs. 

DECIDUOUS 

*Anisacanthus Wrightii—Grows about 3, sometimes 5 ft. tall. Should 
be cut back to 8 in. in February. Bears through summer and fall orange- 
red, trumpet-shaped fls. Shiny lvs. Prefers hot, dry regions. Is native to 
Texas. 

*Blackberries-Dewberries ( Rubus )—Handsome, cut-leaf fol. Single 
rose-like, white fls. Delicious fruit, cult, commercially. Prefer deep 
mellow loam (clayey). Canes must be headed annually to give maximum 
results in fruit. Prop, by suckers or cuttings. Valuable for informal 
hedges, sloping banks, etc. Native to Texas. 

*Castela Nicholsonii (Goat-Bush) ("Amargosa”)—Lvs. shiny green 
above and silver-grey under. Fls. scarlet or deep orange. Brilliant red 
fruit, stony. Of medicinal value, especially in jaundice and dystentery. 
Grows native, in semi-arid west Texas. Blooms in late spring. 

*Chaparral (Lippia lycioids) ("Bee Bush”—The name chaparral is 
given locally to many quite different plants, including the Goat-Bush 
( Castela ), Agarita (Berberis), certain of the Acacias and the Lippias, 
Rhamnus caroliniana and TAzyphus obtusifolia. Perhaps the Lippias are 


42 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


the most generally known as chaparral. It has small, aromatic, thorny 
leaves; mignonette-scented, white fls. very attractive to the bees. Grows 
in lime thickets, in low ground. Its pale, brittle branches are tipped with 
branched spikes of fls. 

*Coralberry ( Symphoricarpus vulgaris ) (Symphoricarpus orbiculatus) 
(Indian Currant)—Bears coral or purplish-red berries on slender 
branches. Native to lime hillsides at edge of thickets in most of Texas. 
Grows readily from seed or shoots. Useful for informal borders or 
naturalizing on hillsides. Berries more highly colored in partial sun. 

* Coral-Bush, or Tree ( Erythrina ) (Fireman’s Helmet)—Light green 
lvs. on nearly leafless slender br. Long sprays of pea-like, scarlet fls. 
Slender coral beans. Prefers sandy loam. Excellent sea-side plant, 2-3 ft. 
tall. Thorny. Tender. Winter kills. Prune off tops to the ground each 
year. Perennial-like, or grows from seed. This plant, E. . herbacea y has a 
hardier, more shrub-like var. E . . crista galli that sometimes grows into 
a small tree—the branches die back and should be pruned to the trunk 
each year, to produce new growth. 

Cydonia japonica (Flowering Quince) (Burning Bush)—Small lvs. 
Vivid, 5-petaled red tinged orange fls. Fruit quince-shaped. White variety 
also available. 

Hydrangea (Hardy)—Produces showy, large blue, lavender-blue or pink 
balls in late spring. Prefers moist, half humus half loam, acid soil; partial 
shade and protected location. Water freely. H . . paniculata is the hardi¬ 
est of all varieties. 

Hypericum (St. John’s Wort)—Shiny, deep bluish-green foliage. Golden 
yellow fls. in late spring. Pendulous habit. Semi-hardy. Prefers moist, 
acid soil. H.. americana (Similar to Kerria) semi-erect. Withstands 
hot sun. 

Kochia—See Shrubs from Seed and Cuttings. 

Kolkwitzia (Beauty Bush)—2^4-3 ft. Flowers are flattish clusters, pink 
with yellow throat. Seed covered with bristly hairs. Prop, by cuttings of 
green wood. Demands a great deal of moisture. 

*Lawsonia Inermis ( Reseda , or Henna)—Almost evergreen. Light green. 
Clusters of minute, very fragrant yellow or white fls. Lvs. produce com¬ 
mercial henna (the "cyprus” of antiquity), "camphore” of the Bible, 
also "Egyptian privet” or "mignonette”). Compact growth. Tender 
except in the Rio Grande Valley, or semi-tropics. 

*Rose Mallow ( Pavonia Lasiopetala) (Hibiscus lasiocarpos) —Swamp- 
mallow, perennial-shrub. Heart-shaped, velvety lvs. Rose-pink or rose- 
red, like small wild roses. Fr. like wine cups. Prefer rich, shaded ledges 
or lime hillsides. Especially good for shaded nooks of rock gardens. 
Native Texas. 

Note: See I. for additional low-growing shrubs. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


43 


III 

Medium-Height Shrubs 

Three to seven feet. 

EVERGREEN 

Abelia—Small lvs. turn in the fall. Tubular-shaped white tinged pink fls. 
One of the most satisfactory hedge materials. Blooms from spring until 
frost. 

Aucuba japonica variegata —Dark green lvs. 4-8 ft. height. Any soil. 
Shaded positions. Dense shade. Secure cutting grown plants. 

Bottlebrush ( Callistemon )—Fls. have long bright red anthers that re¬ 
semble a bottlebrush. Difficult to transplant. Prefers dry arid conditions; 
water sparingly. Attains about 4 ft. 

Cape Jasmine ( Gardenia )—Fls. waxy white, camelia-like, deliciously fra¬ 
grant. Lvs. bright, shiny green. Should be planted on the south side of 
buildings and given protection when weather cold enough to frost. 
Prefers moist soil of rich, pliable loam. Prop, chiefly by cuttings. 

Eleagnus ( Oleaster )—Silver-grey lvs., underside bronze in fall. Fragrant 
silvery-white or yellow fls. Scarlet, or silvery berries. Prefers rich, neutral 
soil. E .. fruitlandii and E . . Simonii are especially adapted to the lime 
regions. 4-8 ft. 

Myrtus communis (Roman, or True Myrtle)—Aromatic, small, green, 
glossy lvs. White fls. Blue berries all winter. Prefers acid-neutral soil. 
Slow growing. Spreading habit. Blooms all summer. 

Nandina domestica —Shiny lvs., coppery-red in fall. Bright red fruit, in 
clusters. 5 ft. 

Osmanthus aquifolium (Olea fragrans) (Sweet Olive)—Large, dark 
green, holly-like lvs. Fragrant, small white fls. 3-5 ft. Grows anywhere, 
prefers semi-shade. Prop, by cuttings. O . . fortuni withstands cold. 

Senisa (Cenisa) ( Leucophyllum texanum) (Barometer Bush) (Desert 
Sage)—Ash-grey foliage. Showy, bell-like lilac to pink-lilac purple, 2- 
lipper fls. appearing sometimes before (always after) rain. Sensitive to 
weather changes. About 5 ft. tall. Fls. sometimes pale lavender. Prefers 
lime regions. 

DECIDUOUS 

* Alder ( Alnus) —Medium-sized, aromatic, light green lvs. Catkins fol¬ 
lowed by small nutlet. Prefers 'neutral to acid soil. 2-10 ft. tall. Native 
to Southwest. 

*Aronia (Alder)—Ornamental foliage, red in fall. White flower-clusters 
followed by berry-like or pear-shaped, bright red fruit. Prefers neutral 


44 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

to acid soil. Upright growth. The purple, and the black var. require 
much water. Aronia (arbotifolia ). 

*Busli Morning Glory (Ipomea leptophylla or fistulosa )— Narrow lvs. 
Lovely pale lavendar-pink fls. Seed covered with rusty hairs. 3-5 ft. 
height. Winter kills. Prop, by seed, plant in late winter. Native to Texas. 

*Callicarpa (Beauty Berry)—Much-prized in Europe. C .. americana is 
native to Texas, called also "French Mulberry.” Fls. are phlox-purple, 
pink, rose, or white—sometimes blue-lavendar. Lilac-blue fruit, berry¬ 
like, produced in bunches along the stem, the size of small peas. May be 
grown, even in the North, in sheltered positions, if protected in winter. 
Prefers sandy loam, moist, even gravely neutral to acid soil. Lvs. large. 
Easily transplanted early in fall. Prop, by cuttings, layers or seed. C. . 
purpurea and C.. americana alba are the best known purple and white 
varieties. C . . japonica is the hardiest having pink fls. (C . . Giraldii be¬ 
ing a slightly lower-growing var. of it). C . . purpurea is also known as 
C. . dichotoma and C. . gracilis. These are native to Texas, along 
streams in the low grounds of East Texas. 

Cephalanthus Occidentalis (Button Bush)—3-12 ft. shrub, sometimes 
small tree, has attractive, fragrant white flowerd-head appearing in sum¬ 
mer. Glossy willow-like foliage. Prefers sandy, moist soil, slightly acid. 
Prop, by seed or cuttings. 

Clethra (Alder)—Slender green branches carry handsome spikes of fra¬ 
grant white and pink fls. appearing in late summer. C.. alnifolia is the 
Sweet Pepperbush native from Maine to Florida. Prefer moist, peaty, 
sandy, acid soil. Prop, by seed or cuttings. Lvs. resemble the Alder. 3-10 
ft. tall. 

Kerria (Globeflower) (Japanese Rose)—Grows 4-8 ft. tall, and is as 
broad as high. Numerous short-branched, spreading, light-green stems. 
Slender, irregular-toothed lvs. turn yellow in fall. Fls. large (single and 
double var.) yellow, wild-rose in appearance. Demands well-drained, 
partially sheltered position. Prop, by cuttings or shoots. 

*Lespedeza (Bush Clover)—Slender-growing shrub or herb. Greyish 
bronze foliage. Thrive in light dry soil. Late summer into fall blooming. 
Fls. pea-like rose-purple, and violet-purple. L . . prairea is native of 
Texas. L .. japonica is the one having white fls. Known also as L . . albi- 
flora. Grow from seed but usually by division. Grows 3-6 ft. tall. 

*Prunus Reverchon (Hog Plum)—Native Texas. Valuable for hedges. 
Fruit makes excellent jelly. Fls. white and very fragrant, appearing in 
early spring. P . . tarda is a taller variety. P . . glandulosa is much smaller 
and P . . rivularis has smaller fls. All are native to Texas, in deep wooded 
thickets in river bottoms, seldom in the open. Yellow-red fruits on 
chestnut colored twigs. Stems are grey. 



THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


4 5 


Prunus subhirtella pendula ("Rosebud,” Weeping Cherry)—A sport 
from "Beni Higan” ("Shidare Higan Zakwa”) is very lovely, pyramid¬ 
shaped bush or low tree. Its habit of flowering before the leaves appear 
gives effect of a pink mist. 

Note: See I. for additional medium-height shrubs . 

IV 

Tall Shrubs ... Small Trees 

EVERGREEN 

Camellia —Grow in sandy loam rich in humus and acid. Handsome foliage 
and showy fls. that are more profuse in moist somewhat shady places. 
Semi-hardy. 

Cherry Laurel ( Primus Laurocerasus) —Shiny green lvs. Small white fls. 
and inconspicuous fruit. 3-30 ft. tall. Grows almost everywhere. In 
pruning take care to leave enough horizontal branches yet admit light 
to roots, as requires light to live. Most satisfactory upright shrub. 

Chinaberry (Melia )—M elia umbraculiformis (Texas umbrella tree)* and 
M .. Azedarach (Pride of India) are very rapid-growing ornamental 
trees or tall bushes. The umbrella tree has very dense dark green foliage 
has a rounded appearance like an open umbrella. Both varieties have 
clusters of fragrant, violet or lilac-colored fls. succeeded by yellowish 
transparent berries readily eaten by cattle and birds. Very hardy. Grows 
from seed or cuttings readily. Ornamental. 

English Laurel —See Cherry Laurel. 

Eugenia —See Rose Apple. 

Feijoa Sellowiana (Pineapple Guava)—Showy grey-green lvs. White fls. 
with red stamens. Dark green fruit used in making jelly. Grows 3-8 ft. 
tall. Difficult to prop (by cuttings). Prefers soil rich in humus, and 
moderate moisture. Does not thrive in tropical or in climate where 
sudden changes, but is drought-resistant. 

^Huckleberry Tree-Bayberry Tree (Vaccinum arboreum) —Stiff, hard 
branches bearing lily-of-the-valey like white or pinkish fragrant fls. 
followed by blue-black clusters of berries. Grows 6-12 ft. and prefers 
sandy soil. Semi-hardy in north part of temp. zone. Native along the 
Gulf Coast. 

^Mountain Laurel — A. There are two different families of plants that 
have a species (known as Mountain Laurel). One is native to the eastern 
part of U. S., i.e., where acid soil prevails. This is Kalmia latifolia , pre¬ 
fers moist sandy (but not clay or lime) soil; and foliage very attractive 
in contrast to yellow and red stem. Slow growth. Cult, similar to rhodo- 




46 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


dendron. . .. The other is native to the Southwest, especially to Texas 
limestone hills. This is Sophora secundiflora "Frijollito” or Mescal Bean. 
Difficult to transplant. S . . affinis "Eve’s Necklace” will endure neutral 
to slightly acid conditions. Its pods (like Kalmia) are black, whereas 
S.. secondiflora’s are ornate silvery clusters that glisten. The coral-red, 
or maroon colored (sometimes yellow) seeds were used as currency by 
Indians, bartering a six-string of beans for a pony, etc., for they ground 
seed into powder for the highly intoxicating mescal, similar to whiskey 
in effect though more powerful. "Rain tree.” Both plants, the Kalmia 
of the east and Sophora of the west are prized for their attractive foliage 
and fragrant, bonnet-shaped pink to white and rose to deep violet 
flower-clusters (sometimes cup-shaped, also). 

Photina—Greek name referring to its shining foliage, large lvs. tinged 
red-scarlet to deep red in fall. Numerous scarlet berries. Thrive best in 
sun, in light sandy loam though will grow almost verywhere. Prop, by 
seed, cuttings or grafting. P . . serrulata is grown in lime regions with 
success. P . . arbutifolia (Tollon or Toyon) is native to California, New 
Mexico and Mexico, where it is much used in decorations and called 
Christmas berry. Semi-hardy. P . . dentata is also hardy. 

Pittisporum (Pitch Seed)—Rather dense foliage, good hedge material. 
Prop, readily from cuttings. Orange-fragrant small fls. in clusters. P . . 
undulatum esp. fragrant. P. . eugeniodes hardy, rapid-growth, esp. 
adapted to lime shale. P . . Tobira withstands saline high winds. Deep 
green foliage. P. . phillyraeoides (Narrow-leaved) resembles weeping 
willow, esp. adapted to dry regions. Prop, by suckers. P. . eriocarpum is 
the white-leaf var. with yellow fls., but is tender. Fls. banana-scented. 

Rhododendron—There are many kinds of Rhododendrons—evergreen, 
hardy deciduous Azaleas, and Indian Azaleas being the chief group 
classifications. All are lovely; and generally require partial, or semi¬ 
shade, moisture, acid soil (doing well under oak trees in many nurseries), 
peaty or porous loam and no direct rays of sun. As most of their root- 
systems are very shallow, care must be taken to treat them as they re¬ 
quire to obtain maximum results. 

Rose Apple ( Eugenia )—A large group of tropical and semi-hardy shrubs 
with ornamental-ribbed smooth, dense and glossy green foliage. Fls. 
scarlet (black at maturity) greenish white, pale purple or deep purple 
with numerous yellow stamens giving the appearance of one-half of a 
fluffy ball. Fruits used for jelly, being spicy-acid, tomato-shaped the 
size of a large cherry. E .. aromatica is the commercial Clove tree. The 
E .. Jambos is perhaps the hardiest var. and its fruit is fragrant, rose- 
color and used both for jelly and in confectionery. Hardy as far north 
as San Francisco. 

Sophora—See Mountain Laurel. 

Wax Myrtle—Shiny aromatic lvs. Thrives on coast, in sandy regions. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


47 


DECIDUOUS 

Althea "Rose of Sharon 5 ’ (Hibiscus syriacus )—6-12 ft. Fls. ranging from 
blue-purple to violet-red, white, flesh-color, rose-pink, in both single and 
double var. Lvs. rather light green, heart-shaped. Blooms in late spring 
through summer. Prop, readily from cuttings. Will grow almost every¬ 
where. H .. moscheutos, H . . lasiocarpus and H . . coulteri are native to 
Texas and prefer moist, acid soil. Their roots are used in making muci¬ 
lage. See also Hibiscus (page 52). 

Artocarpos (Carab, or Breadfruit Tree)—See list of semi-tropical plants. 

Azalea— See Rhododendron. 

^Buckthorn (Indian Cherry) ( Khamnus )—Lvs. sometimes spiny, gen¬ 
erally bright green, often large. Black or red berries—some yellow and 
a few white fls. inconspicuous. R . . caroliniana (Yellow Buckthorn) is 
native to Texas and R .. cathartica (White Hart’s Thorn) prefers dry 
soil, also. The yellow var. is valued for its yield of yellow dye from its 
yellow wood. It grows on lime hillsides. R . . Frangula wood made into 
charcoal is used in making gunpowder. Its foliage is feathery, fruit red 
and is a valued shrub in the eastern states. Some species produce green 
dyes and fruits or bark used medicinally. Generalyl hardy. Majority pre¬ 
fer moist, neutral to acid soil. Prop, by seed and cuttings. Grow from 
6-12 ft. tall. Used for hedges. 

Bois d’arc —See Mock Orange. 

*Calycanthus (Sweet Shrub)—Pineapple-scented lvs. Large, fragrant, 
purple fls. (some reddish-brown). Native to southern states and also 
known as "Carolina Allspice.” Bark is used as a tonic. Requires semi¬ 
protection from direct sun. Prefers moist, deep, rich soil, well-drained. 
Prop, by seed sown in spring, or by suckers. Semi-hardy. 

Carab (Bread Fruit Tree) — See Artocarpos in list of semi-tropical 
plants. 

Caragana (Pea Tree) (Siberian Pea)—Bright yellow fls. Dark green 
wood. Lvs. like perennial-pea. Prop, by seed or cuttings. Flourishes even 
in light sandy soil. 10-20 ft. tall. Prefer sunny positions. Interesting 
seed-pods. 

Cassia floribunda —See shrubs from Seed and Cuttings, page 62. C.. 
Roemeriana, page 118 (Senna). 

Castor Bean —See shrubs from Seed and Cuttings, page 62. 

Citrus trifolialata (Bitter Orange) —See Mock Orange. Poncirus 
Family prefers neutral to acid soil. 

Crape Myrtle (Lagers troemia indie a) —The lilac of the South. Will not 
endure cold winters. Profuse bloom. The "watermelon-pink” var. possi¬ 
bly the favorite color. Fls. plumes of red, pink, purple, white. Rapid 
growth. Easy culture. Lives in almost all soil conditions. Blooms from 


48 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


early summer to frost. Perhaps most valuable of shrubs in the temperate 
zone. Dwarf varieties are being developed and introduced. The Crape 
Myrtle is ornamental both for its lovely blossoms and its red-tinged lvs. 
in fall. 

"‘Dogwood (Cornus) —Lvs. medium-sized, whitish underneath. Fls. 
white-waxy or rose-pink appear on bare brightly colored (green or red) 
limbs and branches. Fol. assumes brilliant coloring in fall. Abhors lime. 
Prefers moist, neutral to acid soil and semi-shaded, protected locations. 
Blooms in late spring. Attains height varying from 10 to 30 ft. Prop, 
readily by cuttings or grafting. C.. as peri folia and C . . florid a are 
native from Massachusetts to Florida and west to Texas. Slow growing. 
Habitat: in river or creek bottoms. Bark is a valued substitute for 
quinine. Wood is used extensively for spools, handles and especially for 
shuttle-blocks. The roots yield scarlet dye. 

"‘Elder (Box Elder) (Elderberry) ( Sambuscus) —Large, rather coarse 
shrubs, perennial-like. Spread by suckers and seed. Flower-heads are 
large, flat clusters of fragrant white or creamy fls. followed by red, 
black, green or yellow fruits, edible berries, small and valued for making 
wines or jellies. Prefers rich, humid soil. Some var. hardy as far north 
as Massachusetts. S . . canadensis , native to the south and as far west as 
Arkansas and Texas, has a number of varieties, almost effective both 
when in bloom and in fruit. S .. caerulea , similar, but grows looser and 
taller. S .. racemosa has red berries. S .. Schweriana (from China) has 
salmon-red fr. 

Exochorda grandifolia (Pearl Bush)—Showy racemes of pure white fls. 
Slender branches. Thin, bright green foliage. Require sunny position. 
Prefer rich, loamy soil, well-drained. Prop, by seed and cuttings. E . . 
racemosa (Amelanchier racemosa) blooms in May. Is very hardy. E .. 
Giraldii has red lvs. E . . Korolkowii is the darkest green, most dense in 
fol. and most upright in growth. Grow from 10-12 ft. fall. 

*False Indigo ( Amorpha fruticosa) —Fine feathery foliage. Remarkable 
for its dense, upright spikes of small unusually lovely violet-purplish fls. 
It has a white var. and one with pale blue fls. A .. / .. albiflora (white) 
and A .. / .. caerulea (blue). Is strong-growing, spreading, native to 
river banks of Texas, and prefers rich, moist soil—neutral. Will grow 
in sun, but with difficulty. Prop, usually by seed. 10-40 ft. 

^Fringe Tree ( Chionanthus )—Thrive best in somewhat sunny, moist- 
sandy soil, in semi-sheltered position. Large dark green lvs. Very fra¬ 
grant, white fls. in loose panicles. Pendulous dark blue fruit in autumn. 
C.. virginica is native as far west as Texas, from Pennsylvania to 
Florida. Its root-bark is a tonic, reputed narcotic, and laxative. 

Haw—See Viburnum. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


49 


* Hawthorn (Red Haw) (Crataegus Crus-galli) (Cockspur Thorn) — 

Small shiny lvs. Very long, sharp, almost red thorns. Clusters of ex¬ 
quisite white fls. apple-like in shape. Bright scarlet (or white) berry¬ 
like fruit. Prefers rich, slightly acid to neutral soil and moisture. 

Honey Locust—( gleditschia triant bus). See page 59). 

Japanese Persimmon (Diospyrus)—Ornamental fruit. May be trained 
espalier. 

Locust—( Robinia ). See page 59. 

* Mimosa (Albizzia Julibrissin) —Feathery foliage. Pink, bell-shaped, fra¬ 

grant fls. Fruit large strap-shaped pods. Hardy as far north as Washing¬ 
ton, D. C. Similar to Acacias. Prefers neutral to acid soil. 8-15 ft. tall. 

♦Parkinsonia ( Ketama ) (Jerusalem Thorn)—Yellow-flowered shrub. 
Reed-like branches, thorny green, giving it its Mexican name, "Palo 
verde,” meaning green stick. Lacy, feathery, drooping foliage. Fls. in 
elongated drooping clusters. Will thrive in any soil. Evergreen in south, 
below freezing. Prefers moist situations. P. . Torreyana —native to 
Texas, withstands drought. Prop, by seed, and suckers or shoots. 

Peach (Flowering) ( Prunus vulgaris )—The flowering peach, in both 
single (P . . Davidiana) and double (P . . Persica) forms, have numer¬ 
ous shades of fls. from white, pinks, reds to deep purplish maroon. Most 
of the single var. are grown for the fls. that appear quite early, the 
fruits being of indifferent quality. There are a number of forms in the 
trees themselves, also compact, dwarf, pyramidal, weeping and purple- 
lvs. forms. 

♦Plum (Flowering) ( Prunus angustafolia) (Chickasaw, or Mountain 
Plum)—Native from Del. to Fla. and west to Texas, forms a small, 
bushy-topped shrub-tree, reddish branches forming dense thickets. 
White fls. preceeding lvs. Sometimes attains 8-10 ft. in height. There 
are several var. of this plum. P . . Watsoni (Sand Plum) P . . varians 
(yellow transparent) and hybrids valued for dry-region planting. More 
or less thorny. 

Prunus—There is a wide choice of flowering and fruits found in the 
diverse Prunus family, including the Almond, Apricot, Cherry, Cherry 
laurel, Nectarene, Peach and Plum. P .. angustafolia and Redbud are 
especially lovely planted near each other. 

♦Poinsettia—See list of Semi-tropical plants, page 54; also Euphorbia 
on page 88. 

♦Redbud ( Cercis )—Handsome, distinct foliage, heart-shaped, light green 
lvs. Lovely pink-lavendar fls. appear before the lvs. Grows almost every¬ 
where. Prefers rich, sandy somewhat moist soil especially when young. 
Prop, readily by seed. Grows very rapidly. Produces fls. in thick clusters 
hugging the stems, even when 3-4 yr. old, graceful little dwarf-tree¬ 
like plants. Fls. white, pink, and red. C. . canadensis (rosy-pink) alba 


50 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


(double white), C.. chinensis (purplish-pink), C..racemosa (rose- 
pink) handsomest of all but semi-hardy, C.. occidentalis (pale rose) 
is also called C . . texensis, C .. California and C . . renifoenis. These are 
all native to America. The European var. is C.. Siliquastrum (purplish 
rose) var. alba (white) has more nearly round lvs. and is a 40-ft. tree. 
All Redbud seedpods are long, flat and turn dark reddish-brown when 
ripe. The bark is of medicinal value for fevers, similar to quinine. 

*Rose Acacia ( Robinia hispida) —Bright green, graceful pinnate foliage. 
Fls. rose-colored, in racemes. Pod covered thick with hairs, bean-like. 
R .. hispida nana, one ft. tall, is the dwarf var. often grafted on other 
stems to give height. R .. neo-mexicana is the native var. found in the 
mountain canyons of West Texas. Its stems have prickles, stout, sharp 
and recurved, like the rose. Rose-colored fls. hang in showy clusters. It 
is locally called Mountain Locust or Pink Locust. R .. Hartwigii is 
native to North Carolina and Alabama (acid to neutral soil) lvs. grey¬ 
ish and hairy underneath. Fls. rosy-purple; while R . . vicosa also native 
to Carolina and Alabama is a 40-ft. tree with dark reddish brown 
branchlets. Fls. pink with a yellow blotch on the standard. 

*Sesbania ( Daubentonia) (Glottidium ) (Coffee Bean)—Short-lived 

shrubs, herb-like. Green-stemmed. Fls. bonnet-shaped. S. . marcrocarpa, 
native to south and east Texas. Prefers rich, humid soil—acid. Requires 
a great deal of moisture; grows close to or in water. Fls. a brownish- 
yellow, broad petal folded over the yellow lateral petals. Slender stems. 
Lvs. pinnate. S . . longifolia (or Daubentonia) “Rattle Bush” is the var. 
having very poisonous seed and golden yellow fls. S . . or Glottidium 
vesicaria var. has fls. tinged with brownish purple and pods are quite 
short. S .. Cavanillessii has showy racemes of bright yellow fls. All are 
native to Texas. Other Sesbanias in commerce come from abroad. 

*Tecoma stans—See Yellow Elder. 















THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


51 


Vitex (Sweet Lavender) (Chaste Tree)—Lvs. aromatic, light green with 
greyish fuzz on under side. FIs. in shades of white, blue and lilac. Hardy. 
Grow in almost any soil but prefer dry, sunny situations. Rapid growth 
from cutting or shoots. Very tall. V .. negundo incisa is recommended 
for western Texas and New Mexico. 

*Yellow Elder (Tecoma starts )—Native to Texas, Arizona and New 
Mexico. Upright shrub. Yellow, fragrant, trumpet shaped fls. in large 
terminal racemes or panicles. Blooms late in fall and comes true from 
seed, flowering about one yr. old. Adapted to sandy, pine-land gardens; 
semi-arid lands. "Asperanza.” 

Note: See I for additional tall shrubs. Also pp. 51-58 for trees. 

V 

Shrubs That Are Perennial-Like . . . Winter-Kill 

* Artemisia (Wormwood) (Dusty Miller)—Feathery, silvery-grey* with 
white wooly underneath, lvs. Slender, branching stems also grey-white. 
Fls. inconspicuous. Grows everywhere, even in shade. Prop, by division. 
Grown for foliage, as a herb and for medicinal purposes. Some of the 
specific var. include Tarragon; Absinthe; Wormwood; Dusty Miller; 
Mugwort and Sage Brush. A .. gnaphalodes is native to Texas. May be 
dried and used in winter-bouquets. 

*Buddieia (Butterfly Bush)—Rapid growing. Semi-hardy, spreading. 
Prefers rich, well drained, sunny location. Many var., most of them from 
China, one native to Texas and Mexico south to Brazil having orange- 
yellow fls. Fls. generally spikes of fragrant lilac, blue-lavendar, rose- 
lilac, or purple. B . . asiatica is the white var. B . . Davidii , with varieties 
and hybrids most widely planted. 








52 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


*Datura—See page 115. 

’•’Hibiscus (Mallow)—Rapid growing. Lvs. rather large, tropical in effect. 
FIs. hollyhock-like, in shades of rose, red, and white with red center. 
Thrives in any moist rich soil. Bloom in later summer and fall. H .. 
Moscheutos (Swamp Rose Mallow) is native from Massachusetts to 
Florida and west to Lake Michigan and (page 37) Texas. It is the best 
known native var. though there are several others. Generally listed as 
"herbaceous perennial.” H .. mutabilis is the southern "Confederate 
Rose.” H . . rose sinesis "Rose of Sharon” (Althea). 

*Lantana—L .. Camara , having many varieties and hybrids, are all shrub¬ 
like perennials. FIs. verbena-like, are carried on upright stems—odor 
disagreeable to most people. Bloom profuse. Require sunny position, 
though not particular about soil and flourish even through heat and 
drought. L . . Selowiana (Weeping or Trailing) has slender twigs and 
is covered with rose-lavendar or blue-lavendar fls. until frost. Dark 
green lvs. tinge red with frost and are most attractive over rough walls 
or down lime hillsides. L.. involucrata , fls. light lilac or white on low 
bushy shrub. L. . horrida is native to Texas. Fls. yellow and orange-red 
as L .. Camara. 

Plumbago (Leadwort)—Semi-hardy. Readily prop, by cuttings. Require 
sunny exposure. Fls. phlox-like flower-heads of light, sky blue (P.. 
capensis) the var. P .. capensis alba being the white var. most used. Lvs. 
small, soft and light green. Very tender. P. . Larpentae is very low- 
growing, almost a ground-cover, having dark blue fls. No soil prefer¬ 
ences. Prop, by division. P .. rosea (var. coccinea , scarlet) long racemes 
of red fls. 

Poinsettia—See page 54. 

’•■Salvia (Sage)—Many varieties, varying widely in height, hardiness, 
type of growth and bloom-time as well as color and method of propaga¬ 
tion. S..Greggi —bushy, autumn-flowering, red (dark and rich), 1-6 
ft.; S .. Pit chert —(Meadow Sage) bushy, August to frost, true gentian 
blue fls. on slender long stalks, profuse. 3-4 ft. .. . alba (white var.) 
S .. azurea —like S .. Pitcheri but sky-blue fls. S .. farinacea —earliest to 
bloom, pale blue fls. 2-3 ft. "Heavenly blue” (page 95). S. . ballotae- 
flora —grown for lvs. for flavoring meats and seasoning. S.. patens — 
extremely tender, requires acid soil, vivid blue very lovely, requires 
sheltered position and care. S.. splendens (Scarlet sage) fiery red, per¬ 
haps most widely known var. Color distinctive though often clashes 
in garden use, hardy. Grown from seed (annual), dwarf var. compact 
growth 15 in. S.. leucantha —bushy perennial, deep purple fls. velvety, 
fall blooming, tender, 3-4 ft. "Mexican Sage.” 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


53 


VI 

Semi-Tropical Plants 

SHRUBS 

Acalpha (Chenile Plant)— A .. hispida (3-5 ft.) has green foliage and 
scarlet flowerets like fuzz on long trailing racemes; A .. margmata’s 
foliage is very unusual; while A .. tricolor (3-4 ft) foliage is red. 

Allamanda (Golden Trumpet)—Evergreen, broad, glossy green leaves. 
FIs. pure golden yellow. May be trained either as a vine or a shrub. 

Alseuosmia macrophylla —New Zealand Honeysuckle or ''Wax Bush,” 
because texture of lvs. and fls. 2-4 ft. Bright red spikes 3-6 in. Lvs. 
rich green. 

*Bignonia —May be trained as vine or shrub. Fls. orange-red or yellow 
trumpets. Very showy. 

Bougainvellia —May be trained either as shrub or vine. Fls. very decora¬ 
tive cluster—bracts lavender, purple, maroon, salmon or white. 

Carissa —A spiny shrub, excellent for hedges. Foliage very dark, glossy 
green. Fls. white, star-shaped. 

Confederate Jasmine (Trachelosperum jasminoides) —Also called "Star 
Jasmine.” A tender, evergreen, climbing shrub with very fragrant, 
five-lobed fls. Known also as Rhynchospermum. 

Crape Jasmine —Similar to the well-known Cape Jasmine, though not 
quite the same. Fls. waxy white and lvs. glossy green. 

Chinese Hat Plant (Holmskioldia) —Shrub of sprawling growth Blos¬ 
soms apricot-colored. 

Croton —C .. Torreyanus "Vara Blanca,” does well in dry regions. Fls. in 
long racemes. Lvs. light green. Many varieties of Croton. "Croton Tea.” 
(Page 117.) 

Dombeya —Similar to hydrangeas. Fls. lovely pink. Very tall. ( 12 ft.) 

Frangipani (Plumeria )—Very fragrant white blossoms with canary- 
yellow throats. 

Geranium —Several var. usually in north pot-plants. Given semi-pro¬ 
tection are shrub-like. 

Golden Dew Drop (Durante repens )—Fls. in lovely lilac racemes, fol¬ 
lowed by yellow berries. D . . lorentzi has white fls. D .. plumeri has 
blue fls. 

Ixora —Dark green glossy lvs. Clusters of dark red, tubular fls. very 



54 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Japanese Yew ( Podocorpus )—Evergreen. Tall, slender-growing shrub. 

Mangrove Black ( Avicennia nitida) —Large, dark green smooth lvs. 
White fls. in terminal clusters, very fragrant. Grows very tall. Mari¬ 
time evergreen. Attracts bees. 

New Zealand Flax (Snake or Zebra Plant)—Ornamental grass-like. Lvs. 
white edged or green. 

Oleander ( Nerium )—Excellent for tall hedge, or in planting. Long 
narrow, evergreen lvs. Fls. white, red or pink showy clusters. Make 
lovely trees. (8-15 ft.) 

Pampas Grass —Very ornamental. 

Pepper (Brazilian) ( Schinus terebintheifolius) —Brilliant scarlet berries. 
Large lvs. Rapid growth. 

Persea (Avacado, Alligator Pear)—Valued especially for fruit. "Agua- 
cote” or "Pagua.” 

Plumbago ( Capensis) (Blue Leadwort)—Most satisfactory shrub. Bears 
wealth of phlox-like, sky-blue fls. (page 52). (2-6 ft.). 

Poinciana (Bird-of-Paradise)—"Strelitzia.” Foliage lacy small, willow¬ 
like. Fls. gorgeous pea-like blossoms with quite long, scarlet anthers. 
Called also "Tabachin,” "Tavascheen,” and "Barbados Pride.” P.. regia 
is the famous Royal Poinciana. The so-called Dwarf Poinciana is really 
Caesalpinia pulcherrima. 

Poinsettia (Euphorbia heterophylla) (Euphorbia havanensis) {Eupbor- 
bia pulcherrima) —"Christmas Plant,” "Painted Leaf,” "Flor de la 
Noche Buena,” or "Flor de Navidad,” "Flame-Leaf,” so-called for its 
cluster of flaming red (sometimes pure white, or rose-pink). Lvs. or 
bracts at the top of stiff, upright stalks, bearing large ornamental leaves. 
Grows to 15 ft. and more in rich loam when given water and attention. 
Requires rest-period of several months. Re-set cuttings (in Valley) in 
January but water sparingly until May or June. Tender. 

Russellia (Fountain of Firecracker Bush)—Red fls. drooping like foun¬ 
tain. 2-3 ft. Very showy. 

Shrimp Plant ( Beloperone )—Evergreen shrubs bearing unusual racemes 
that appear like curled shrimp—red or maroon in the deeper tones, 
shaded to palest pink. 2-4 ft. Excellent for background or screen. Blooms 
most of the year. 

Taza de Oro (Cup of Gold) ( Solandra Gutatz) —Large, very fragrant 
golden fls. Showy leaves. 

Templetonia Retusa (Coral Bush)—Bears large coral-red blossoms. Dark 
brown pods, opening to spill coral beans. Very attractive. Drought re¬ 
sistant. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


55 


Tigers Apple ( Thevetia ) (Yellow Oleander)—Very ornamental. Grows 
well in sandy soil. Is related to the oleander. Lvs. narrow and shiny. FIs. 
bell-shaped golden. Known also as “Lucky Seeds.” Drought resistant. 
15-25 ft. Can be pruned. 

Thunbergia—Blossoms bluish-purple with white throats, hanging in clus¬ 
ters. 

Viburnum ( Odoratissimum )—Evergreen, large glossy lvs. Very fragrant 
fls. in late spring. Very hardy shrub. 

Note: In addition to the above that require semi-tropical conditions, 
the following shrubs also are grown extensively and seem to thrive.... 
“Asperanza” ( Tecoma starts or Yellow Elder); Box; Callistemon; 
Camillia; Cape Jasmine; Crape Myrtle; Datura arborea (“Angel’s trum¬ 
pet”) ; Erythina arborea (Coral shrub or tree); Forsythia Hibiscus 
“Tulipan del monte;” M alvaviscus Drummondii “Manzanita” (Turk’s 
Cap) native to the tropics, its crape myrtle; Lantana camera “Hierba 
de Cristo;” Mimosa; Pomegranate; Pittisporum; Poinsettia; Pyracantha; 
Rubber plant ( Figus ); Senisa ( Leucophyllum texanum t “Ceniso”); 
Vitex; Desert flowering Willow. (See other lists for descriptions, etc.) 

TREES 

♦Acacia ( Acapulcensis ) (Tepejuage)—Fast-growing evergreen. Fern-like 
leaves. Delicate yellow fls., fragrant, ball-like. Also classed as Leucaena 
pulve rulenta. 20-40 ft. 

Amyris ( Lantrisco madrensis) (Torchwood)—White flowers in spikes. 
Evergreen. Odor resembles myrrh. 

Anacua ( Ahretia elliptica) —Good shade tree. Fragrant. Fls. twice yearly. 
Very small, brilliant orange fruit, attractive to birds. Can be trimmed 
to shrub-height. Wide distribution. 12-20 ft. 

♦Anacahuite ( Cordia boissieri) —“Wild Olive.” So-called for shape of 
fruit. Blooms nine months of year. Fls. white, crepe-like. Drought re¬ 
sistant. 10-15 ft. 

Arcajuela ( Citkarexylum Berlandieri )—Fragrant white or yellow fls. in 
long spike-like racemes. Spiny shrub. Fruit, red berries becoming black 
with age. 

♦Ash (Fresno) ( Eraxinus Berlandieri) —Excellent shade tree. Only ash in 
U. S. truly evergreen. Rapid growth. Requires abundance of water. 
Transplants easily when young. May be grown from seed. 30-50 ft. 
Withstood hurricane of 1933. 

Banana ( Musa sapientum )—Rapid growth. Valued for fruit and tropical 
effect of large, long leaves. Should be protected from winds. Excellent 
for effects. 


5 6 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Bauhinia (Orchid Tree)— Bears long racemes of white, orchid 
(lavendar), or yellow pea-like flowers. Likes water. 12-20 ft. 

Camphor —Evergreen glossy bright lvs. Rich brownish red in fall. Tender. 

Carab (Breadfruit Tree) ( Artocarpos )—Ornamental, large thick lvs. 
FIs. in long spikes. Dense club-like catkin 10-16 in. long. Edible fruit 
(usually seed boiled). Branches fragile. Prop, by cuttings. Slow growth. 
Requires hot, moist air. Very tender. Milky-juiced. Also: Ceratonia 
siliqua. 

*Catsclaw ( Acacia wrightii) (Una de Gato)—Small, attractive, very 
thorny tree. Drought resistant. 

Citrus —Include the Oranges, Lemons, Grapefruit, Tangerines, Kumquat, 
Loquat, etc. 

*Chapote (Mexican Persimmon) ( Breyodendren texanum )—Small ever¬ 
green. Fruit delicious, size of plum. Drought resistant. 

Cherimoya (Apple Custard)—Related to Pawpaw. 12-20 ft. Large edible 
fruit. Prefers rich soil and good drainage. 

*Colima ( Fagara fagara) —Evergreen with yellow wood. Ornamental, 
foliage and fruit, aromatic when bruised. 

*La Coma (Ironwood) ( Bumelia angustifolia) —Small ornamental tree, 
excellent wood for furniture. Round top. Blooms twice yearly. Fruit 
attractive to birds. Cardinals nest in its branches. Ancient "Chittim 
wood,” or ‘'Buckthorn.” 

Cypress (Taxodium mucronatum) —Large trees from Mexico. "Cipres.” 
Require a great deal of water. Of the same family is the largest tree 
in the world, "Del Tule” in Oaxaca, Mexico. 

’‘‘Ebony (Ebano) ( Siderocarpos flexicaulis) —Excellent shade tree. Dark 
evergreen foliage. Grows rapidly. Flowers after every heavy rain. Re¬ 
quires much water , good drainage and fairly rich soil. Closely related to 
the Acacias. 10-20 ft. Withstood huricane of 1933. 

Elm (Olmo) ( Ulmus crassifolia) —Excellent shade tree. Requires water. 
Evergreen. 20-60 ft. Drought resistant. 

’‘‘Eucalyptus (Gum)—Most ornamental, useful shade tree. Grows very 
tall, and large. Bark distinctive, greyish. Flowers fragrant, attract bees. 
Endures heat, frost and most drought resistant. Wood and fruits used 
extensively. E .. globulus (Blue Gum) has lighter yellow wood than E .. 
rostrata (Red Gum). Both demand good soil preferably clayey-subsoil. 

Grevillea ( Robusta) (Silk Oak)—Symmetrical, pyramidal-shaped, excel¬ 
lent specimen tree. Fern-like lvs. Flowers comb-like, golden yelow, 6 in. 
long. Drought resistant. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


57 


Gum —See Eucalyptus. 

*Hackberry ( Celtis occidentals) (Celtis mississippiensis) —Popular shade 
tree. "Palo Blancho.” Withstands drought and winds. Deciduous. Small, 
reddish, berry-fruits. Quick growth. Subject to disease. 30-60 ft. With¬ 
stood hurricane of 1933. 

*Huisache (Acacia) ( Vachellia farnesiana )—Delicate foliage. Fragrant 
yellow balls attract bees. Flowers produce very high grade perfume. (See 
page 36.) Likes moisture. 20-50 ft. 

Jacaranda mimosaefolia —Georgeous blue clusters of fls. Tender. 20- 
30 ft. 

Jujube (2 izyphus) —Small tree valuable for fruit and foliage (yellow¬ 
ish green). Z.. Rbamnaceae is half hardy. Fr. dark red, almost black, 
edible. Grows in any soil. Prop, by seed or cuttings. 

Juniperus —In variety. (See page 35.) 

Kumquat ( Fortunella Japonica) —Lvs. narrow. Fls. small. Fruit orange 
colored and flavored. 

* Laurel (Texas Mountain Laurel) ( Sophora secundiflora) —Very orna¬ 

mental. (See pages 38; 46.) 

Loquat ( Eriobotrya japonica )—Beautiful olive-green foliage, thick, 
glossy. Edible yellow fruit, size of plums. Symmetrical tree. Apricot or 
cherry flavored. "Biwa.” Excellent for jams and jellies. 

*Magnolia —(See page 35.) 

*Mesquite ( Prosopis juliflora) — (See page 60.) Lacy foliage, willow-like. 

Mexican Buckeye ( Ungnadia speciosa )—Small deciduous tree. Lovely 
pink flowers. 

Mulberry (Morns) — Morns Kingon is fruitless, deciduous shade tree. M . . 
rubra is the native red variety. M . . alba (white) and M . . nigra (black) 
widely grown also. 

* Mimosa ( Albizzia julibrissin) — (See pages 36; 60.) 

Olive—Slow growth. Drought resistant. 

Orchid Tree —See Bauhinla. 

Parkinsonia (Retama) — (See page 49.) 10-20 ft. Drought resistant. 

Palms ( Sabal )—Include Palmettos, Date, Sage, Fan, etc., wide variety. 
Most popular probably is S .. texana or mexicana * (native), "Palma de 
Nichero.” Withstood hurricane of 1933. 

Papaya ( Carica )—Fast growing, ornamental trees valued for fruits and 
foliage. Should be planted in groups, to cross-pollenize properly. Fruit 
melon-like. 


58 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Pecan ( Carya ) — (See pages 28; 60.) 

Persimmon—See Chapote. 

Rue Tree (Ruta) "Herb of Grace”—Hardy. Perennial-like. Lvs. fra¬ 
grant. Fls. yellow or greenish in great profusion. Has medicinal qualities. 

Sapindus—S .. saponaria (tall herb); S .. quillaja (small tree), called 
"Soapberry;” and S . . drummondii ("Jaboncillo”) all have the peculi¬ 
arity of producing lather hence the name. The fruit is round, orange- 
brown. 

Silk Oak—See Grevillea. 

Soapbark (Guillaja)—See Sapindus. 

Tallow Tree ( Sapium sabiferum) —In fall leaves tinge maple-like. Almost 
evergreen. 

Tamarix (Salt Cedar) — (See pages 32; 39.) "Athel.” Gross feeder. 20-40 
ft. Very shallow root system. Drought resistant. Prop, from cuttings 
(must be kept moist to grow.) 

:l, Tenaza (Harvardia Brevifolia) —Small ornamental tree. Flowers fra¬ 
grant, attractive and appear twice yearly. 

:: ‘Umbrella Tree ( Melia) — (See page 45.) Chinaberry. 

"‘Willows—(See page 39.) 

Vitex—(See page 51.) 

*Zitherwood ( Citharexylum )—Hard, durable wood used for zithers and 
fiddles. Also called "Bois cotelet.” Flowers small white panicles. Berries 
gay—turn from green to red to black. 

Note: Plant or transplant both shrubs and trees preferably in December, 
although it may safely be done in November or January, often, by 
giving care, water and attention. Plants may be put out at almost any 
time provided abundance of water is given and they are carefully balled 
before moving. Pruning seems best during a long dry spell — spring- 
blooming in November and December (sometimes as early as Septem¬ 
ber, if not too hot), etc. All gardening habits are compelled to be gov¬ 
erned by the weather. 

VII 

Trees and Tree-Like Shrubs 

It would be impossible to list all the trees that may be grown 

in the South and West because they are legion, and the great 

range of climatic differences as well as the varying types of soil 

play such an important part in their determination. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


59 


Certain of the Oaks ( Quercus ), Elms (Ulmus) and Cedars 
(Juniperus) will grow almost anywhere, yet many of the trees and 
tree-like shrubs demand specific conditions—usually soil-ingredi¬ 
ents or the degree of moisture together with the range of tempera¬ 
ture—determines their hardiness and suitability. 

For convenience, grouping those that are locally hardy under 
broad geographical divisions, the following most commonly seen 
trees are listed for ready reference in planning landscaping premises. 
These lists do not attempt to be detailed, merely suggestive. 

In the acid-soil lands of the Old South and west into Texas 
those predominating include flowering Azaleas and Rhododen¬ 
drons (often attaining the height of small trees); the Cypress 
("Arizona”, "Italian”, "Portuguese”, "Majestic”, etc.) and 
Chamaecyparis; flowering white and pink varieties of the Dogwood 
(Comus); Magnolias; long and short leaf Pines (Pinus); certain 
Yews (Taxus) and the Water Hemlock (Thuja) among the ever¬ 
greens—while the deciduous Ash (Fraxinus americana, white, and 
F .. lanceolat a, green); Beech (Fagus) and Birch (Be tula rubra , 
red, and B . . lueta, yellow) are found in the northern sections. The 
Chinquapin (Castenea pumila) grows with the White (Ulmus 
americana) and the Slippery (U .. fulva) Elms. The flowering 
Gingko (Maidenhair-Ferntree); the Haws and Hawthorns; the 
Hazel (Corylus) and Witch Hazel (Hamamelis); Larch (Larex); 
both the Locust and "Honey Locust” (Robinia and Gleditschia); 
Maples (Acer); many of the Hicorias (Hickory); the Red 
(Q .. coccinea) and Black (Q .. velutina) Oaks that demand 
moisture and prefer rich soil; and both the Sweet Gum (Liquidam¬ 
ber Styraciflua) and the Sour Gum (Nyssa sylvatica , or Tubelo) 
that demand deep, rich, moist soil as does the lovely Tulip Tree 
(Liriodendron); the Ailanthus glangulosa ("Tree of Heaven”); 
the "Bald Cypress” (Taxodium disticham, whose needle-like foliage 
is deciduous) all prefer acid to neutral soil. 

Those that prefer neutral, or calcareous (lime) soil, generally 
found throughout central and north Texas into Oklahoma and 
Arkansas and in certain isolated areas in the Old South—include 


Everywhere 


Prefer 
Acid Soil 


60 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Prefer 
Lime Soil 


Plains or 

Prairie 

Soil 


among the evergreen the Cedars (Juniperus) and in the southern 
portions the lovely pyramidal-shaped, feathery, drooping-foliage 
Cedrus deodora and C .. atlantica glance ; the Buckeye* or Dwarf 
Chestnut (Aesculus octandra flava); the Live Oak* and certain 
of the Cypresses . .. while among the deciduous are the two varie¬ 
ties of the Chinaberries (Melia Azedarach , umbraculiformts, and 
Melia floribunda) both having fragrant, lavender flowers in clus¬ 
ters followed by tan-colored berries; Cottonwoods (Populus del - 
toides)* or Balsam Poplar with their birch-like limbs and light 
green leaves; the half-hardy Jujube (Zizyphus) and the Mimosa* 
fragrans (also M.. Borealis) with its fragrant, fuzzy, rosy-pink 
balls and feathery foliage; the American Linden (Basswood, Tilia 
americana) that does not endure cold; Pecan (Carya) and Oaks; 
Persimmon* ( Brayodendron texanum , ’Possum Plum) along the 
stream banks with the Willows (Salix); Sopboras *; and Black 
Walnut (Juglans nigra)*; the gleaming white limbs of the Syca¬ 
more Platanus occidentals) and Redbud (Cercis occidentals) 
found all through the temperate zone, with various of the Pines 
and Elms. 

The semi-tropics and coast-lands have many plants that will 
not grow anywhere else. The principal ones of these are listed on 
pages 53-55). 

In the desert and plains country, the vast prairie sections the 
Mesquite (Proposis juliftora)*; the Desert Willow (Chilipsis lin¬ 
earis)* and the Scrub Oak (Quercus ilicifolia)* predominate with 
Pinus cembroides* (Pinyon) and the Jack Pine (Pinus Bank- 
siana)*; the Aspen (Populus tremuloides) that turns such glorious 
yellows in the fall; the green Ash (Fraxinus lanceolata) ; various 
native Chaparral * and Condalias*; Arbutus unedo (Strawberry 
tree); several Acacias * see page 36; the Greasewood (Scarco- 
batus)*; the Hop tree (Ptelea trifoliata)* with its clusters of 
greenish white flowers and yellow leaves; the Mountain Mahogany 
(Cercocarpus)* and Mountain Sorrel, or Sourwood*; and the 
Juniperus chinensis neaboriensis . 

There are a number that seem to thrive throughout the tern- 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


61 


perate zone, without much regard for soil or climatic vagaries. 
Among these are certain of the Arbor Vitae (Thuja); the Bois 
d’Arc (Mock Orange— Maclura pomifera)*; Buckthorn (Rham- 
nus)*; Catalpa Bungei (Umbrella tree) and C.. speciosa with 
their deliciously fragrant flowers; Hackberry (Celtus occidentalis) 
see pages 28; 57; Honey Locust (see page 59); various Poplars 
(Bolle’s, Carolina, Lombardy, White or Silver); the purple-leaved 
Plum (Prunus cerasifera Pissardt); the Red, White, Russian, and 
Weeping Mulberries; Rose* Acacia; Sumac (Rhus)*; the white- 
limbed Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)* (called also Button- 
wood) ; and the Willows (Salix babylonica or Weeping Willow) 
and the Flowering Desert Willow. 

Among the tall shrubs or small trees there are the Altheas 
(Hibiscus); Cherry* Laurel; Crape Myrtle; Box Elder, or Ash¬ 
leaved Maple (Acer Negundo)* ; the Eleagnus; Lespedeza (Bush 
Clover)*; and the Bush Honeysuckle (Lonicera) and the Tar¬ 
tarian; Ligustrums (Privet); Osmanthus aquifolium; Parkinsonia 
(Retama)*; Philadelphus; Photinia; Pyracanthus; Salvias*; Spi- 
reas; Syringa (Lilac); Tamarix* (Salt Cedar); and Vitex. Anis - 
acanthus y Buddleia; Caraguna; Cydonia japonic a and Coralberry 
(Symphoricarpus) * are lower-growing but generally hardy, it 
seems. 

The lovely Golden Rain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) or Var¬ 
nish tree, will endure all except acid soil. 

Trees are greatly prized in regions where they are rare, or diffi¬ 
cult to have. It is, therefore, suggested that intensive feeding will 
be beneficial to insure success. One method is measure the diameter 
of the tree four (4) feet above the ground and allow three (3) 
pounds of plant-food for each inch of diameter... drill a series 
of holes eighteen (18) inches apart, the radius determined by 
where the outer leaves drip, and (preferably in March) water in 
correct ratio (that is the per cent of Nitrogen to Superphosphate 
to Potash) depends on local conditions. . . . Another method of 
determining the amount of food required or that can be readily 
assimilated is add (in feet) the height of the tree to its branch- 


Shrubs 


Tall Shrubs 


Feeding 

Trees 


62 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Evergreens 


Targets 


Hurricane 


Front Seed 


spread, to the trunk-circumference (in inches), and the resulting 
figure will give the number of pounds of food needed. (See page 
21 .) 

As many evergreens like acidity in the soil, to one-third the 
amount of earth they are planted in add one-third peat moss and 
one-third live-oak (or hardwood) leaves. If the soil is clayey, add 
some sand. A little tannic-acid, stirred in at the roots, often is 
relished. 

The general rule regarding planting tree is when the sap is down, 
ball, place in hole amply deep and wide (not to cramp roots) 
and water. Placing usually requires expert handling. 

Scientific findings tell us that among the trees there are certain 
ones that are veritable lightning-targets, while others are more 
or less immune. In the order listed the following are most often 
struck—Oak, Elm, Pine, Poplar, Willow, Ash. While the Beech, 
Birch, Horsechestnut, or Holly are seldom scarred. As these latter 
are seldom grown in the southwestern region, the former list is 
of especial interest, recognizing the extremes of weather conditions 
prevailing. 

During the hurricane of 1933 in the Rio Grande Lower Valley 
those trees that survived best were the Ash, Hackberry and Palms 
—all natives to the region. 

VIII 

Shrubs from Seeding and Cuttings 

There is no greater joy to the true gardener than watching and 
tending plants from tiny seedlings to full-grown plant, shrub or 
tree! 

Certain annual-like shrubs mature, grow quite tall, and blossom 
freely in a single season. Among these are: 

Cassia Floribunda (Senna)—Golden yellow bonnet-shaped fls. in loose 

clusters. 

Castor Bean—Valued for decorative lvs., tropical in effect. Desirable for 

screens or hedges. Rapid growth. 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


63 


Kochia (Mock or Summer Cypress)—Low-growing herb, with compact 
light green summer foliage, brilliant red in fall. 

Tecoma Stans —Yellow Elder (p. 51). 

While others, like Redbud, are of slower growth yet mature 
more rapidly than the conifers and broad-leaf evergreens. 

Fall is the time to make hardwood cuttings. 

Cut switches of the current year’s growth into eight-inch lengths, 
leaving a bud at the top and a cut just below a bud for the root end . . . 
top-cut slanting, bottom square. 

Cut off all leaves. Tie into a bundle of 15 to 25 stems. 

Bury obliquely, tops up, in a trench deep enough to cover tops about 
two inches. Surround and cover completely with sand. 

Be sure to mark the spot as well as the bundle. 

In February, dig up. At the base of each cutting will be seen a callous 
(white rim). Place this cutting in its permanent growing position— 
about half its length above ground. The greater percentage will grow. 

With CONIFERS: 

Make cuttings similar to Geraniums, leaving most of the leaves on the 
stem. Plant in sand about October. 

Leave ten to twelve months. Lift and plant in pots. 

Plant in permanent positions after summer-heat has waned (October 
or early November). 

Plant Evergreens in August or first part of September. 

The process of rooting cuttings has been greatly simplified and 
accelerated by the discovery of P. W. Zimmerman, Boyce Thomp¬ 
son Institute, New York, of a fluid commercially known as 
"Hormodin A.” 


IX 

Shrubs for Screens and Hedges 

Hedges may be used as boundary markers and to form a frame 
for various special gardens (such as Rose, Perennial, Vegetable, 
etc.). They may be used as a screen from the street, or a neighbor’s 
property, or as a division line to separate terraces or various sec¬ 
tions even of small property. They may be used to screen or sep¬ 
arate utilitiy areas from the garden area, and to soften the harsh 
outlines of geometric patterns, necessary drives, etc. 


By Cutting 


64 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Uses for 


Before 



Some of the best known and most widely used shrubs that may 
be kept low to medium in height include: 


Abelia Cydonia Japonica 

Agarita Forsythia 

Barberry Kerria 

Box and Ilex Leucophyllum (Senisa) 

Among the tall-growing varieties there are: 


Arizona Cypress 
Arbor Vitae 
Bois d’Arc 

(Mock Orange) 
Cedars 


Crape Myrtle 
Cherry Laurel 
Citrus trifoliata 
Euonymus 
Hawthorne 


Nandina 
Polyantha Roses 
Pyracantha 
Spirea 

Ilex 

Lilac 

Ligustrum 

Philadelphus 

Privet 

Teucrium 


All shrubs, especially flowering shrubs, are gross feeders, requir¬ 
ing fertilization to give maximum results. An all-round, dry, com¬ 
mercial fertilizer that may be applied to the top soil and worked 
in lightly is once each year—apply at the ratio of four and one- 
half tablespoonfuls to each two (2) square feet, or one (1) 
pound to every fifteen (15) feet of hedge... 100 pounds of 
bonemeal, to which add 50 pounds of cottonseed meal and 10 
(ten) pounds of sifted (hardwood) wood ashes, unleeched (or 
P ot ash). After 



Shrubs 
Feed Shrubs 









THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 65 



All new gardeners tend to allow shrubs and vigorous-growing 
plants to develop without restraint. They fear that through lack 
of expert knowledge they may do injury to a treasured bush or 
flower. However, nothing is of value unless it serves the purpose 
for which it was intended, so a shrub must be forced to comply 
with those purposes for which it was selected and planted. 

Thus when and how to prune plants is one of the many valuable 
lessons to be learned from the old English gardeners. Their years 
of experience have enabled them to use and keep within bounds 
their plant-colors, as an artist handles his palette, so that each indi¬ 
vidual specimen is forced to take its relative place in the garden 
picture. How to use plants to advantage and so control them that 
they occupy only the space allotted them denotes a Master Gar¬ 
dener. 

To maintain grounds and foundations well balanced is always a 
vital consideration. 

Privet, Ligustrum and Euonymus, if one wishes a low hedge, 
should be pruned to the ground every four or five years. Do not 
despair when the luxuriant growth is cut away, for the strong, 
established roots will send up a wealth of new lacy growth to 
delight the eye and keep the bushes thick and healthy. Where 
growth is abundant, frequent and severe pruning is necessary. 

Evergreens are selected primarily for backgrounds, against 


Value 


Relative 

Place 


Evergreens 


Flowering 

Shrubs 


66 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

which to display splashes of color, for their softening green is as 
distinct a color factor as white, which serves to blend groups of 
brilliant-colored flowers, so the shades of green are always needed 
to create harmony. Since all evergreens may not be directed into 
desired shapes, symmetry can only be secured by choosing those 
varieties which will permit of training. Valuable years of plant 
growth are lost when mistakes are made in the original selection. 
In shaping conifers and most of the broad-leaf evergreens, trim 
them in February-March but do not cut conifers beyond their 
needles. Broad-leaf evergreens, on the contrary, will sprout from 
bare branches, if it is necessary to be severe in shaping them. 

While evergreens are only pruned for form and restraint, flow¬ 
ering shrubs should be kept trimmed for excellence of bloom, 
development of strength, and beauty of contour. Those flowering 
shrubs whose habit is to produce a number of canes, from the same 
root-stock, should have the old and hardened canes as well as all 
dead wood removed and kept removed. In this way the less 
matured branches will develop strength and vigor. In most cases 
these produce much more perfect blossoms. By allowing only 
enough canes to develop to give the bush symmetry without over¬ 
crowding, beauty of form is obtained. 

In trimming, remember that the direction of the bud at the 
cut will be that of the new branch, and that too many branches 
in the center of the plant exclude required sun and air from the 
roots, causing a scarcity of foliage on the lower branches—an ugly 
leggy appearance. 

When it becomes necessary to lower the top branches, never 
trim them all the same height. Cut them irregular lengths, though 
taking care not to be stubby, in order to give the shrub a more 
graceful, natural effect. To make a more dense growth, cut back 
tips of branches; and to induce wider growth, cut off old branches 
at the ground. 

Shear evergreen hedges when growth is finished, usually early 
fall. Shear deciduous hedges once while dormant (for shaping); 
again as soon as the first spring growth has been made (to correct 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


67 



ragged look), and again when later growth produces same effect, 
at least three times a year. 

Spirea, trimmed severely immediately after blooming, will give 
light and space to surrounding plants, as well as a greater wealth 
of bloom the succeeding season. This and several others of the 
early-flowering shrubs may be kept the desired shape and size by 
taking off those branches undesired when the buds begin to swell . 
These, put .in water indoors, may be forced to flower before those 
out-of-doors by the heat of the house, and thus a double purpose 
is served. 

A simple key as to time of pruning flowering-shrubs is all those 
blossoming in the spring should be trimmed immediately after 
flowering, while those that bloom in late summer or fall should be Time 
cut back after they lose their leaves or during early winter. 

Espalier 

Training shrubs or trees espalier for ornamental display—espe¬ 
cially where space is limited—has long been practiced, requires 
patience, and is an art. 

Among those most readily adaptable and satisfactory: 

Apricot —Prenus Armeniaca —Cuttings grown for true flowering. 

Citrus trifolialata (Bitter Orange)— Poncirus —Bears attractive, small 
orange-like fruit. 

Crab Apples — "Floribunda”.; "Augustifolia”; "Elyii”; Arnold”; "Red- 
vein”; "Coronaria”; "Sargent”; "Niedzwetzkyana”; M . . Sebeiderckeri” 
are all good. 



68 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Some 

Acid-Loving 

Plants 


Precaution 
Necessary 
in Lime 
Soil 


In Sandy 
Soil 


Eleagmis Simonni. 

Grapes —"Carmen” and "R. W. Munson.” Not "Concord.” 

Magnolia grandiflora — Is both flowering and evergreen. 

Pears —"Kiefer” and "Garber”—blight-proof. 

Persimmon —(Japanese) Diospyros —ornamental fruit. 

Plums —"Six Weeks”; "Gold”; "Abundance”; "Black Beauty”; "Bur¬ 
bank.” 

Pyracantha— Lalandii (Cotoneaster coccinea) —attractive red berries. 
Wisteria —Cutting grown plants, only, bear perfect flowers. 

XI 

Acid-Loving Plants, Shrubs, and Trees 

The hardwood forests of the South and West are the habitat 
of many plants that must be most carefully nurtured elsewhere. 
Among these are the Dogwood, Rhododendrons, Cypripediums 
or Lady Slippers, Azaleas, Camellias, Mountain Laurel, Androm¬ 
eda, Blueberry, Tar Flower, Pitcher Plants, Sundews, Sweet Bay, 
Bayberry, Ink or Gallberry, and many others, all of which will 
thrive in soil that is properly prepared. 

Azaleas and Rhododendrons are among the most difficult plants 
to grow successfully in sections of the land, due to the fact that 
they demand the superlative degree of acidity in the soil in which 
they are to grow, and wherever lime, even in small quantities, is 
present the life of any, and especially this, acid-loving plant is 
endangered. Therefore those precautions that are taken to exclude 
the seepage of lime into the acid-soil bed (see page 12) are par¬ 
ticularly advised when one attempts to have Azaleas in calcareous 
soil. 

In sections where sand or clay is the predominant soil, the depth 
to which the hole that is to receive the acid-loving plant is to be 
dug varies from eighteen to twenty-four inches, dependent on the 
degree of compactness of the soil. Light sandy soil requires the 
removal of at least twenty inches more, a deeper hole. Break up the 
subsoil for about a foot in depth, and add to it acid, peaty soil, and 
some clay. Acid, peaty soil may be secured by various means, as 
natural muck (from marshes); peat-moss (in bales, usually); leaf- 


THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN 


69 


mold (from under hardwood trees such as Oak, Hemlock, Sweet 
Gum, Maple, Magnolia, Hickory, Cypress and some Cedars); well- 
rotted wood, bark or sawdust of these trees, to which is added 
some peat-moss and cottonseed meal. Clay soil should be removed 
at least two feet in depth, forked well for at least ten inches deeper, 
and sand, together with the necessary acid, peaty soil, as above, 
added to bring it to the consistency of good loam. Both sand and 
clay, therefore, require about the same treatment, the chief differ¬ 
ence being in the depth to be removed, for the proportions of the 
mixture to be replaced is the same. (See pages 13-15.) 

This special soil mixture may be estimated as follows: one part 
cottonseed meal to three parts sand, to which is added ten parts 
peat moss, or acid leaf mold, or muck; and six parts rotted hard¬ 
wood or bark of above named trees. Finely ground Sphagnum moss 
often is used without any mixture of soil. Or, another combination 
that is used, is one part clay, one part sand, and one part leaf mold 
(acid) to two parts peat moss. Aluminum sulphate also may be 
spread over the surface (one-half pound to each square yard, ap¬ 
proximately) and raked into the ground; or hemlock extract or 
tannic acid are satisfactory. However, the aluminum sulphate is 
indispensable as a safe, quick means of supplying and maintaining 


In Clay 
Soil 


Special Soil 
Soil 

Mixture 


Acidity 

Test 



70 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Drainage 

and 

Protection 


acidity in the soil, the correct degree being determined by blue 
litmus paper turning red after being placed (covered) in the soil 
for thirty minutes. The soil is then acid enough. (See page 13.) 
Sulphur is slower acting but is not quickly exhausted. 

All acid-loving plants are exacting, also, in their requirements 
of adequate drainage. In some situations an elevated bed, some¬ 
times on a gentle slope, is needed to obtain the best results from 
the plant. Yet care should be taken not to locate them in a spot 
that is too well-drained and dry. It is suggested that, as their habi¬ 
tat is usually in woods, a certain amount of shade and protection 
is their preference. 


CHIEF ACID-LOVING PLANTS 


Andromeda 
Azaleas 
Bayberry 
Blueberry 
Camellias 
Christmas Rose 
(Helleborus niger) 
Cypress 


Cypripediums 
(Lady Slippers) 
Dogwood (Cornus) 
Gentian 
Hydrangea 
Inkberry (Gallberry) 
Iris missouriensis 

(and others of species) 


Maple 

Mountain Laurel 

Pitcherplant 

Rhododendrons 

Sweet Bay 

Sweet Gum 

Sundews 

Tar-Flower 










A Cycle of 

Continuous Bloom 

u /yF WE could solve the problem of continuous bloom in the 
garden, much of the fascination of gardening would be 
dulled, if not absolutely extinguished. It is the constant breathless 
quest, with disappointment and disaster here and there, but success 
ever around the corner, that lures us on. To paraphrase Browning, 
"The gardens we aspire to have and have not comfort us,” and 
there is pure joy in the quest for a perfection which constantly 
eludes us. A gardener, if he lives to be ninety, can fold his hands 
at the end and say, "Here endeth the first lesson,” for his hope is to 
gather Asphodels and Daisies in the Elysian Fields where a cycle 
of continuous bloom will be his reward for grubbing and spraying 
and sweating here. 

"Here in the semi-arid Southwest we are agricultural pioneers. 
We have the thrill of experimentation and of adaptation. We have 
peculiar climatic conditions that thwart our exuberant hopes in 
one direction, only to reward them richly in another. A wealth of 
native trees, shrubs, and flowers is at our command and we long, 
perversely, to grow something that will never be anything but a 
sickly ghost of its robust parent plant. We are like the immortal 
Tartarian wEo, oblivious of the beauty of the giant Plane-trees of 
his native Provence, was only happy when he could exhibit an 
African Rubber tree in a four-inch pot (the Rubber Tree’s normal 
spread is nearly an acre!). 


SHRUBS 

"Let us reform, and take stock of what is here at our doors! In 
the Southwest there is no month in the year in which some flower 
is not in bloom. Starting with shrubs and vines we can have blooms 


The Quest 
For Con - 
tinous 
Bloom 
in the 
Garden 


Conditions 
Peculiar 
to the 
Southwest 


71 



February 


March 


72 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

from January to October, and berries and autumn leaves from 
October to Christmas. It is true that shrubs such as Pyrus japonic a 
and Forsythia, if tempted by a warm January to burst into bloom, 
will be severely nipped and set back one month as a punishment for 
their impatient spirit. But the sweet Bush Honeysuckle, undis¬ 
mayed by freezing temperature, comes out and stays out on naked 
branches, without even the protection of leaves. 

"On a sunny day in early February we see a glint of yellow in 
our still leafless borders. The Jasmine nudiflorum is coming into 
bloom! With its golden shower of star-like blooms, it is the first 
harbinger of spring. This is followed by Spirea Thunbergii, and 
soon Prunus Pissardii sends out its feathery white sprays and dark 
copper foliage. The Mahonia is pushing out its yellow buds, and 
now we can bring in branches of Pyrus japonica and flowering 
Plum in tight bud, and let them open in the house in tones of 
white, flesh, and deep pink, which combine beautifully with our 
Pussy Willow’s velvet buds. Forsythia (spectabilis and suspensa) 
guided by the groundhog’s advice, either bursts into a fountain of 
gold in mid-February or sits tight until the March winds blow! 

"March sees the lovely Magnolia stellata blossom white on its 
bare branches, forming a picture worthy of its praise by Omar 
Khayyam in the Rubaiyat. March sees also the Redbud pass from 
pink-lavender in bud to ashes-of-roses in bloom, and before it 
fades, the procession of shrubs has started to the music of the songs 
of countless birds. The Wisteria sends out a lavender challenge, to 
which the native Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora)* 
responds with its panicles of blue. The Black Haw (Viburnum 
prunifolium) is joined to the true crataegus Red Haw, the Peartree, 
and the Dogwood in their mantles of white. The purple Lilac 
(Syringa vulgaris), beloved of our grandmothers, the pink and 
white flowering Peach, True Almond, Flowering Almond, Apricot, 
white Cydonia, Kerria, Japonica, Spirea (Van Houtteii and other 
varieties), and the Carolina Jasmine fill the month with color and 
fragrance. 

"In April the Crab Apples (Bechtel and purpurea adenhamensis) 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


73 


are blooming. The Chionanthus shakes out its white fringe, while 
the Japanese flowering Cherry is covered with pale blush-pink, and 
the Pyracantha is a mass of tiny white blossoms which the bees 
adore. The Belgian, and the French Floneysuckles perfume the air. 
The Rhus cotinus * is putting out its feathery flowers, and Weigelia, 
Deutzia, Dogwood*, and Yaupon* blossom and flourish, while 
coral (Hesperaloe•)* Yuccas start booming and continue through 
May and beyond. 

“In May Pomciana aculeata ,* Parkinsonia,* Tamarix,* Nandina, 
and Kolkwitzia, Broom, also Clematis (jackmanni, and C. panicu- 
lata), Red Osier, Dogwood, Genista (Planta-genet of France), 
Syringa, Philadelphus, Baptisia,* Thermopsis, and Paulownia. 

“The most regal plant that grows in this region is the Magnolia 
grandiflora. Nothing more stately can be imagined than a full- 
grown tree, towering to a slender point, with its dark-green, 
shining leaves studded with creamy wax-like buds and blossoms! 
We must wait seven years at least for a young tree to bloom, but 
the reward is worth it! 

“June is ushered in by the small yellow Jasmine blooming in 
masses. With it bloom all the summer shrubs—Abelia, blue and 
white Vitex, Pomegranate, Trumpet vine, Spanish (purple) Salvia, 
Mimosa, Eleagnus, Argentina, Photina, Crape Myrtles of many 
kinds, Daphne cneorum, and Plumbago. 

“Our berry-bearing shrubs usually fill in spaces in the border, 
unnoticed until autumn crowns them with orange, scarlet and coral 
fruits and varied leaf-shadings of copper and gold. The Sumac 
(Rhus)* deserves a place in every garden, for nothing surpasses 
its gorgeous autumn coloring. Massed as border backgrounds, or on 
hillsides, with the glossy green leaves and scarlet berries of the 
native Yaupon,* the Black* Haw, and the orange and red berries 
of the Thorn (Pyracantha) we have a combination of autumn’s 
richest tones. The Nandina, called by the Chinese 'Heavenly Bam¬ 
boo,* is a valuable addition to our gardens, with its wax-like blos¬ 
soms in May and scarlet fruit in winter. The Coralberry* is a 
sturdy native plant that once planted has to have its runners fre- 


April 


May 


June 


Autumn 


74 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Acid-Loving 

Plants 


Evergreens 


Earliest 
Vines to 
Bloom 


quently cut back in order to keep it from taking the entire garden! 

"Much experimenting is being done with plants and shrubs that 
require an acid soil. Given a protected southern exposure, and at 
least five hours of morning sunshine, the following elements must 
be added to the soil: sandy loam, well-rotted leaf-mold from hard¬ 
wood trees, aluminum sulphate, superphosphate, and peat-moss 
(see pages 13, 68-69). Pl|£e the ball of the plant a little higher 
than the level of the ground, for good drainage; and feed twice a 
year (about April and September). With these requirements the 
following acid-loving shrubs thrive and add a touch of the Old 
South to our Southwestern gardens. . . . Camellia sasaqua (Decem¬ 
ber-blooming) and other later blooming varieties; Azaleas, Mag¬ 
nolia stellata, White Dogwood, and Carolina Jasmine blooming 
from March into April; Night-blooming Jasmine, Belgian Honey¬ 
suckle, Poinciana, Florida Bignonia, bloom from April through 
May; Gardenias begin blooming in May or June and the season 
finishes with October-flowering Scarlet Bignonia. 

"In and out, here and there in all our planting must be the 
strong accent of evergreens, and the list must start with our native 
Red Cedar, varied by the blue-green of the Arizona Cypress, the 
many varieties of Arbor Vitae, the Italian Cypresses, and the plumy 
Cedrus deodara. Ground Juniper is indispensable for color and 
form. Mahonia gives tone, with its creamy-yellow blossoms in 
spring, and its rich coloring in fall and winter. 

VINES 

"Among the vines there is a wealth to choose from, the first to 
bloom being Wisteria. Honeysuckle with its perfume and its grace 
still remains a prime favorite, as does the Woodbine, and the 
Clematis paniculata is a grateful sight to the eye in June. The lovely 
yellow Bignonia, a native of Louisiana, and preferring a swampy 
habitat, seems out of place in our arid section, but once established, 
it persists and is one of the most beautiful sights of Spring. One of 
the glories of our special climatic conditions is the growth in partial 
shade and dampness of English Ivy. Nothing gives the desired air 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


75 


of age and tradition which a garden must have to be interesting 
like the draping of Ivy upon pillars and walls. The historic mantle 
of Ivy gives an atmosphere of Vails that are ancient and stones 
decayed* which Longfellow says are essential to the Ivy’s happiness. 
The Perennial Sweet Pea climbs and throws out its pink clusters 
as a covering to back fences and the Coral Vine in Fall adds a 
charming note of color and grace. We must not forget the native 
Sarsaparilla Vine, a vigorous grower, with rich, crimson berries in 
Winter. 



CLIMBING ROSES 


"There are a number of Climbing Roses that add color and 
beauty to our Spring gardens. We have but to choose our color 
scheme, and a long list is obtainable. The most prolific and constant 
bloomer that I know among the Climbers is the old-fashioned 
Empress of China. It is not large, not single, though scantily petaled, 
and of a modest inconspicuous pink, but its blooming season is 
almost incredible. It starts blooming the first of April and puts out 
showers of blooms for two or three weeks. From then on, in 
diminished quantity, it blooms continuously till June, and fre¬ 
quently buds forth again in September or October. Thousand 
Beauties blooms about May 1st, with Mary Wallace, Silver Moon, 
American Pillar, Dr. W. Van Fleet and Cherokee (the latter may 
be trained as a hedge). 

ef Pauls Scarlet is lovely on the white pillars of a pergola or white 
posts that carry the chains of a rose garland. If your garland or 
pergola is at the end of a vista, nothing could be lovelier; but for 


Ivy 


Fall 

Blooming 


Same 

Pink 

Varieties 


Pauls 

Scarlet 

Pergola 


76 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


limited space in smaller gardens, the shell-pink Mary Wallace , the 
salmon Jacotte or the pink Cherokee are better. The Silver Moon 
and Mermaid are lovely for wide spaces. Let them climb to the tops 
of tall trees, but are too rank for the small garden and must be 
restrained, or banished. 


FLOWERING PLANTS 


Earliest 
Bulbs and 
Other Plants 
to Bloom 


For Inter 

mediate 

Bloom 


"With the hedges, shrubs and vines for background, let us take 
up next the problem of plants in their habit and order of bloom. 

"It is January and the Violets are blooming in purple sheets, wide 
as our planting of them permits. Their purple is varied by clumps 
of white Violets and of wild Violets of palest blue. Grape Hya¬ 
cinths make vivid splashes of royal blue and the delicate blue of 
the Triteleias, a dainty flower of the Old South, loved and grown 
in Louisiana and the Carolinas, makes a charming border at the 
edge of flagstone paths. Adjoining the Triteleias, under the pergola, 
or in shady places where grass is hard to grow plant Vinca Minor , 
or Gill-over-the-ground. These add a vivid green to the shaded 
garden path which should be accented here and there with clumps 
of Leucojum (Snowflakes). Crocus are not so easy to grow in our 
climate, but their purple and gold, even if the bulbs live only for a 
season, add much to this first preview of the Spring, combined with 
Scilla Siherica and Scilla Companulata. 

"Following the Snowflakes come the Pansies, English Daisies, 
and Narcissus, Daffodils and Jonquils start their procession of 
bloom. The earliest and smallest, the sweet-scented yellow Jonquil, 
is, to me, the most enchanting of all. It blends harmoniously with 
the early single blue Hyacinth, Azura and Muscari, which are also 
favorites of the Old South. The one-tone yellow and the bicolor 
Jonquils combine with the various Narcissus to perfume the garden 
for weeks while, close on their heels follow the Darwin Tulips. As 
an edging for Jonquil and Tulip beds, Sweet Alyssum is charming, 
varied with patches of the Clove-Pink in its various shades of flesh, 
mauve and pink. Sweet Alyssum blooms almost perpetually. It 
often survives the winter and should be clipped from time to time 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


77 


to make it take a fresh start. The single annual Pinks (Dianthus) 
fringed and in many varieties come out in April and bloom pro¬ 
fusely for w'eeks. If you cut all the dead blooms off, they will be 
dormant for a while, and start blooming in June, and again in the 
Fall. 

“March sees the Lilacs come and go, blending in tone with the 
Wisteria where space permits a vista and with the early white 
Florentinei and purple Germanica Iris. Stocks in shades of lavender, 
and Wall Flowers of yellow and bronze, tone in with the picture. 
Under the Red Buds make a planting of Tulips (Dream, Moon¬ 
light, and Clara Butt) in drifts, down to an edging of Phlox 
divaricata and pale yellow Phlox Drummondii. This makes a pic¬ 
ture in soft pastel shades. Approach this picture if possible through 
pillars of Hugonis, or an arch of Lady Banksia, for the clear yellow 
of both these Roses has a luminous quality that is unique. 

“After the tulips go, the Iris symphony of color begins. Already 
the blue and yellow dwarf Iris have bloomed and the Florentina 
and Germanica have followed. Then come the bulbous Dutch, and 
Spanish followed by the Siberian, hosts of German intermediates 
and the lovely Louisiana Iris. The symphony ends with the tall 
bearded and late dwarf varieties blooming in May. 

“Choose your colors and plant in alternating clumps or drifts 
down a long border. Put the pale shades in the foreground and the 
stronger colors further away. There is no flower that repays us in 
this climate like the Iris. None that stands more neglect and none 
that responds more to intelligent care. With Iris nothing is lovelier 
than Aquilegia (Columbine). The long-spurred varieties (Mrs. 
Scott Elliott strain) are a tremendous advance over the old ones. 
A mauve shade with white, purple, or yellow Iris is beautiful, and 
the delicacy of the Columbine makes a fitting companion for the 
queenly flower of France. 

“The earliest dwarf varieties of Hemerocallis (Dumortieri and 
Mittendorphii) bloom in April and with careful planning a suc¬ 
cession of Hemerocallis bloom lasting till midsummer can be 
achieved. With the Day lilies, the Newport Sweet William blends, 


The 

Mid-Season 

Bloom 


Iris 

Succession 
of Bloom 


Plants in 
Drifts 


78 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Border 

Plants 


Some 
Contrasts 
To Blue 


Early 

Summer 

Bloom 


The 

Yuccas 


and for distant borders the single Black Maroon lends depth. Be¬ 
hind them in borders grow the taller plants Mertensia, Anchusa, 
single blue and pink Campanulas, and Delphinium. The latter 
grows here as an annual. 

"A good edging for a bed of April and May bloom is Nepeta 
Mttssini (English Catmint) which cannot be too highly praised. It 
has a gray-green foliage and showers in sprays of lavender blue. 
Just behind it plant pale yellow Phlox, alternating with deeper 
shades of dwarf yellow Iris, and dwarf Lemon Lilies. 

"The Larkspur, which started blooming the last of April, con¬ 
tinues to flower all during May and combines well with Corn¬ 
flowers and Poppies of all varieties, including Eschscholtzia in its 
various shades of cream and yellow. The gorgeous Orientale , like 
the Delphinium, is still being coaxed to dwell with us, but they do 
not survive our hot Summer and must be used, as yet, only as 
annuals. Madonna Lilies look well planted behind tall blue Lark¬ 
spur and near clumps of Lemon yellow Lilies (Hemerocallis Thun- 
bergi). I like them, too, planted for strong contrast near Red 
Radiance Roses. 

"Led by the Regal Lilies, all the summer flowers now troop in. 
In front of tall, sentinel Hollyhocks of pale yellow and pink, at 
the back of a border, plant drifts of salmon-pink Snapdragons, blue 
Canterbury Bells, Cornflowers, Veronica, Scabiosa, Salvia azurea 
with clumps of Marguerites and Coreopsis. These combine well 
with the clear yellow of Spanish broom (Genista) which can be 
used as accents for corners. Lavender Penstemon and Giant Sweet 
Sultan ( Centaurea Imperials) grow wild in our fields in May. Like 
the brilliant red Texas Plume of June, they are difficult to trans¬ 
plant to our gardens (see page 115), but by experience, we can 
and must learn how to make them at home. 

"Large grounds and wide borders permit the planting of groups 
of our native white Yuccas which, alternating with the Coral 
Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora or Engelmannii) are lovely in the 
June border and combine with Gladioli in the cream and salmon 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


79 


shades. Rosemary and Hemerocallis (Fluva and Flava) bring the 
order down to an edging of Plumbago Larpentae with its deep- 
blue flowers, which continue in bloom for weeks. 

"In June the Syringa still lingers; the Trumpet-Vine flourishes 
and the Clematis spreads its foamy petals over walls and pergolas. 
In the bulb borders vivid Cannas bloom. Day Lilies and quick¬ 
growing Zinnias take the place of Poppies and other annuals ex¬ 
hausted and uprooted. The feathery Calliopsis with yellow and 
bronze flowers replaces tired Coreopsis, and Polyantha Roses bloom 
valiantly, while the other Roses rest for a season. Petunias and 
Verbenas spread and make an effort to cover all the bare places of 
the garden and the Chinese Forget-me-not sends up its dainty 
sprays. Portulaca, unafraid of blistering heat, continues to open in 
the evening and close in the morning during most of the Summer. 

"July, August and September flowers are almost a repetition of 
those of June with one notable recruit of recent introduction, for 
the purple Spanish Salvia (leucantha) which glorifies the flower 
markets of Spain has come to us from Mexico and has been grown 
with great success here. It forms a large bush which becomes a 
mass of rich purple panicles and blooms from late July till frost. 
The Physostegia virginiana (False Dragonhead) begins to bloom 
in August, and blooms into October. The Eupatorium, commonly 
called "Ageratum”, starts in September and blooms till it is ex¬ 
hausted, when Trithonia takes its place. 

"The garden in October has a sort of revival, and becomes a riot 
of color with Chrysanthemums, Heleniums, Cosmos, and Michel- 
mas Daisies. The little French Marigold, "Legion of Honor,” covers 
the ground in front of the higher plants, and the Sweet Alyssum, 
trimmed back, has bloomed again. The Mexican Coral Vine 
(Antigonon, or 'Queen’s 'Wreath’) has draped itself over walls and 
trees and fences. The Roses are blooming with exaggerated stems 
and vigor, and the Autumn leaves and berries are turning. 

"Through November and often up to Christmas we have color 
in the garden. The red and red-copper of the Sumac, the pale gold 
of the Crape Myrtle, the Pear tree’s stunning bronze leaves, and 


June 

Bloom 


Early Fall 
Bloom 


October 

Glory 


Colorful 

Fruit 

and Foliage 


80 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


the rich shading of the Pomegranate from gold to crimson, the 
fruit and foliage of the Nandina and of the Mahonia, the Coral 
berry, the red and the orange of the Thorn (Pyracantha) and the 
crimson berries of the Yaupon and the Sarsaparilla (Carolina Moon 
Seed), all combine to bring the year to a close in a burst of gorgeous 
color. 

"The only way to have continuous color in the garden is to 
study the practical relation between the combinations of color and 
the art of inter-planting. For example, the Violet or Pansy edging 
of early Spring becomes an edging of pale yellow Phlox Drum- 
mortdi by growing Phlox seed just back of the Violets in the Fall. 
They will be small plants by the first of April when the Violets are 
cut back to get rid of the red spider. The Phlox will grow rapidly 
and form a vigorous border. When this is over, Pink Sorrel (Ox - 
alts) and a few plants of Plumbago Larpentae will take its place. 

"Pansies can be succeeded by Petunias, and Wallflowers by all 
the varieties of Pinks. Beside Tulip bulbs plant Sweet William and 
Columbine, which will grow as the Tulip matures and dies, and 
will take its place. 

"Thin out Iris as soon as it has bloomed, to give space to crowded 
Chrysanthemums and Cosmos for Fall blooming. 

"Trim back all plants that will have a second blooming, such as 
Nepeta, Clove Pinks, and Sweet Alyssum. 

"Roses will do better in mid-Summer somewhat protected by 
shade from other plants, but later pull up the plants that crowd 
them so that they may bloom at their best in Autumn. 

"Clematis paniculata can be planted on a Rose arbor to follow 
the Spring Roses when their season is over, and on a back fence 
the orange and red of the Trumpet Vine look lusty and heat-proof. 

"The best time to plant nearly everything in the Southwest is the 
Fall. Study the flower catalogues in Summer and make your plans 
of design and color. Plant vigorously in the Fall and continue to 
plant certain things throughout the Winter. In the Spring, in com¬ 
parative idlesness, enjoy the fruits of your labor !”—Stella Dabney. 






















































































Hosts of (fay 

Flowering Plants 

Perennials 

*//JO GARDEN, be it ever so small, is complete without its hardy 
/ I border, its beds of perennials and annuals. 

Perennial plants are most satisfactory, for they start growth with 
the earliest hint of spring and from the time the first flowers come 
in March and April, there is a succession of bloom until late Fall. 
The garden-lover looks forward to these recurring seasons as joy¬ 
ously as the visit of an old friend is anticipated. 

Every garden, of course, needs a definite design and a green 
background, either a vine-covered wall, or shrubs, mostly ever¬ 
greens with a few flowering shrubs interspersed here and there for 
color. This placed, one can begin with the planting of perennials. 
And what a fascinating occupation, for keep in mind that a series 
of pictures are to be created, the scheme or each season blending 
into the next as the cycle advances. 

Therefore, choose plants with regard to height, color and season 
of bloom, placing them in uneven groups of three or fives. By all 
means avoid straight lines. Could anything, for instance, be lovelier 
than a mass grouping of lavender Phlox and tall yellow Snap¬ 
dragons with clumps of orange California Poppies, and Pinks in 
front of them, serving as a low border to complete the picture? 
Monarda purpurea supplies an excellent lavender to bloom with 
the rose Loosestrife (Lythrum roseum). These two plants do well 
and bloom during the hot days of late June and July. 

To have continuous bloom, place a grouping of summer or late 
fall-blooming plants in between or in back of spring-blooming 


Value of 

Perennials 

in 

Gardens 


Key to 
Choice of 
Perennials 


81 


82 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


For 

Continuous 

Bloom 


Tall 

Growing 

Perenials 


Correct 

Spacing 

and 

Planting 


Amount of 

Water 

Required 


Propagation 

by 

Division 


ones, so as the one is finished, the others will follow. This succes¬ 
sion of bloom creates a bright and changing pageant. 

Whether the herbaceous border has or has not a background of 
shrubs, place those tall-growing plants (such as Hollyhocks, hardy 
Asters, Helenium, Goldenglow, Helianthus and Larkspur) in the 
back of the bed; the medium-height plants, of course, in the center; 
and, as a border, the low-growing or edging plants of different 
colors, selecting those that will give a continuance of bloom. 

Do not make the mistake of planting your perennials too close 
to each other, for they must be left undisturbed for at least four 
years to acquire their full beauty, and need room to develop into 
large clumps. (A good rule to follow is from one to two feet apart, 
according to height.) For this reason, and the most important one 
in planting perennials as well as annuals, prepare the beds thor¬ 
oughly (according to the articles on soil and propagation). 

Even in a moderately mild climate almost all perennials or 
annuals can be grown if the beds are properly prepared, the soil 
enriched with the proper plantfood, and the plants (Delphinium, 
Peonies, Phlox, Columbine, etc.) placed in a location (such as the 
east side of the house, garage or in front of a tall hedge) where 
they may be shielded, especially from the burning afternoon sun. 
Good drainage is also very essential. 

Every fall and every spring put a mixture of bonemeal, dried 
sheep manure and wood-ashes around perennials; lightly cultivate 
this in with a small hand-trowel, and then water thoroughly. 

Do not make the mistake of watering any plants every day, and 
never just sprinkle; but water thoroughly , letting the water soak 
down to the roots about twice a week in very dry weather. This 
causes the roots to go down and not to come to the top to be baked 
by the hot sun. Twice a week, soaked thoroughly , is enough and 
then only if they need it. (See page 24.) 

Most perennials are propagated by root division (Peony, Phlox, 
Delphinium, Daisies, Hardy Asters, Salvias, Achilleas, Chrysanthe¬ 
mums and others). A few, some Pinks and all Carnations, are bet¬ 
ter "layered”. This is done by covering the woody stalk with dirt. 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


83 


Shortly it takes root, and then can be planted to itself. Those that 
can be propagated by seed are listed in the catalogues. (See page 
128 .) 

Always transplant or plant perennials in the fall, preferably 
about the end of October. If transplanted in the spring they do not 
get the proper root growth necessary to take them throughout the 
long hot summers. For this reason many perennials have not been 
grown successfully that would have thrived had they been planted 
in the fall. If seeds of perennials are started in August, in a partly 
shaded bed or cold frame, kept moist, they will be large enough by 
the end of October to transplant to their permanent place in the 
border. Thus they will become rooted enough before cold weather 
to withstand the winter, and form large clumps by spring, bloom¬ 
ing most of the summer. 

In early Spring, as you go down the flagstone path, with what 
eager eyes you look over your beds to see the clumps of Peonies, 
Pyrethrum, Columbine, Cbeiranthus Allionii, Glaucium (the 
Horned Poppy), Anchusa, Campanula (Bellflower), Trachelium, 
Adenophora (Ladybell), Physostegia virginiana (the early bloom¬ 
ing Dragonhead) Cammassias, Valerian officinalis rubra , Pinks, 
Coreopsis, Baptisia australis , Thermopsis montana, Helenium 
Hoopesii, early Daisies and others springing up between the clumps 
of Tulips (giving them a soft carpet, as it were). Just about three 
weeks later all these perennials are a mass of bloom, forming a won¬ 
derful picture, together with huge clumps of Iris. 

Each day one exclaims, "Could anything be lovelier ?” but as 
the days pass on and the later perennials burst into bloom, it is hard 
to decide which picture is really the loveliest. 

May and June bring forth more bloom, a miracle of beauty and 
color— Achillea filipendulina, Achillea Millifolium , Monarda didy- 
ma, Monarda purpurea, Lythrum roseum with its spikes of rose 
pink flowers, Hemerocallis (the double and single Day lilies) send 
their tall spikes of bloom well above the purple Phlox. 

This pageant lasts well into July, only to be replaced by Salvia 
leucantha, Salvia farinacae, and Salvia azurea with their tall spikes 


Time to 
Plant or 
Transplant 
Perennials 


Early 

Flowering 




84 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Summer 
and Fall 
Flowering 
Perennials 


Plan 

Planting 


of velvety-orchid and sky-blue that harmonize so beautifully with 
the Helenium autumnale and Riverton Gem. The stately Golden- 
glow, with its bright yellow clusters of flowers, is a background for 
Physostegia virginiana. On into September and October, with 
clumps of Ageratum, annual Klondike Cosmos, and Michaelmas 
Daisies. As we reach late October and November, the garden 
retires in a blaze of glory supplied by the wonderful Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in rose-pinks and crimsons, yellows and bronzes! 

Skillful planning will enable you to use the same ground several 
times so that places occupied by Tulips or any spring bulbs may 
be a blaze of color in the later summer or fall with lovely annuals, 
for the root-systems of most annuals do not disturb or interfere 
with the bulbs or perennials dormant below them. 

Surely there are rich rewards in a perennial garden and much 
quiet joy! 



'Perennials 

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 




Plant 

Color 

Height 

T ime of Blooming 

Remarks 

•Achillea—Eupatorium . . 
filipendulina (Yarrow) 

Yellow 

3 to 4 ft. 

End of May and 
June 

Showy perennial; valuable for cut 
flowers; should be cut back after 
flowering. Needs full sun. 

•Achillea —Millefolium. . 
(Y arrow) 

Rose 

3 to 4 ft. 

End of May and 
June 

Showy; valuable for cut flowers; 
should be cut back after flower¬ 
ing. Full sun; spreads rapidly. 

Adenophora—L adybell... 

Blue Purple 

3 ft. 

End of May and 

Resembles Campanula; increases 

(Potanini) 


thru summer 

rapidly. 

Anchusa—A lkanet. 

Blue 

4 ft. 

Early summer 

Tall spikes of sky blue flowers. 

(Dropmore) azurea 



Anchusa 

Myosotidiflora 

Blue 

12 in. 

Early spring 

Dwarf perennial; clusters of blue 
flowers resembling forget-me-nots 

t Anemone. 

j aponica—W indflower 

Mixed Colors 

2 to 3 ft. 

Fall 

Do better in partial shade. No after¬ 
noon sun; well drained location. 
Tender. 

Anthemis.. 

tinctoria 

Yellow 

1 to 2 ft. 

June and July 

Succeeds in poorest soil; finely cut 
foliage; large yellow daisy flowers 
on tall stems. 

fAQuiLEGiA—Columbine.. 

Various 

Colors 

3 ft. 

May and June 

Partial shade; prefers oaks and 
cedars; ordinary good garden soil; 
add a little peat moss, oak leaves 
or leaf-mold; prefers acid yet rich 
soil. 

Sandy soil, full sun. Do not disturb 
after once planted. 

•Asclepias— tuberosa. 

Butterfly Weed 

Orange 

1^2 to 2 ft. 

July 

Asters—M ichaelmas 

Daisy 

Various 

Colors 

3 to 5 ft. 

Fall 

Any good soil; full sun. 

•Baptisia — australis. 

False-Indigo 

Dark Blue 

3 ft. 

May 

Lupine-like flowers; rich soil; sunny 
location. 

Boltonia— asteroides. 

Pinkish White 


Aug. and Sept. 
May 

Aster-like; blooms in profusion. 
Semi-shade; requires protection, as 
do delphinum. 

Campanula—M edium. ... 
Canterbury Bells 

Various 

Colors 

3 to 4 ft. 

Carnation Allwoodii... 

Various 

Colors 

Violet Blue 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

Half Carnation and half Pink. 

Centaurea . 

2 ft. 

June to Sept. 

Good cut flower. 

montana 





Cheiranthus—(S iberian 
Wallflower—Allionii) 

Orange 

1 to 2 ft. 

April, May and 
June 

Similar to Wallflowers; splendid 
border plant; good drainage. 

Chrysanthemums. 

Various 

Colors 

2 to 3 ft. 

Fall 

Culture given in article by Mrs. 
Marcus. 

Chrysanthemum— 
(Maximum) 

White 

2 to 3 ft. 

Summer 

Deep rich soil; sunny position; 
divide alternate years. 

(Shasta Daisy) 





Coreopsis. 

(Tickseed) 

Yellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

End of May and 
June 

Sunny position; well drained soil. 

Dianthus—P inks. 

Various 

Colors 

Blue 

2 ft. 

May and June 

Sunny position; well drained soil. 

fDELPHINIUM. .4 . 

(Larkspur) 

3 to 4 ft. 

May and June 

Very rich soil; specially prepared; 
likes lime; no afternoon sun; 
semi shade. 

fDlGITALIS . 

(Foxglove) 

Rose and 
White 

4 to 6 ft. 

May 

Biennial; neutral soil; prefers prep 
tection from afternoon sun; east 

•Eupatorium . 

Hardy Ageratum 

Bluish 

Lavender 

2 ft. 

August and 
September 

Any ordinary soil. 

JGeRBERA. 

Mixture 

2 ft. 

May 

Full sun; prefers moist, peaty soil; 
needs protection in winter. 

JGazania . 

White, Yellow 
Orange 
White 

1 ft. 

April 

Borderplant; sunny position. 

Gypsophila. 

(Baby’s Breath) 

2 to 3 ft. 

Summer 

Any well drained soil; prefers time 
and sunny position. 

Helenium. 

Yellow 

3 to 4 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Any ordinary soil; full sun. 

•Helianthus. 

Yellow 

3 ft. 

July 

Any ordinary rich soil; full sun. 

multiflorus 




Any ordinary rich soil, full sun. 

Heliopsis. 

Y ellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

July 

Hemerocallis. 

(Day Lilies) 

Yellow and 
Orange 

3 ft. 

May, June and 
luly 

Spreads rapidly; full sun or shade. 

Hibiscus. 

White, Pink 
and Red 

3 to 4 ft. 

All summer 

Full sun; forms large clumps. 

Hollyhocks. 

Various 

4 to 6 ft. 

Spring 

Full sun. 

Hydrangea. 

Various 

4 to 6 ft. 

Spring 

Semi-shade. 

Hypericum — St. John’s 




Wort. 

Yellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Semi-shade. 


tRequires special care. ’Native. JGrown extensively in El Paso. 


-4 85 ^- 










































Perennials 


HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS —Continued 


Plant 

Color 

Height 

Time of Blooming 

Remarks 

Lathyrus. 

Perennial Sweet Peas 

Pink and Rose 

Trailing 

Plants 

All summer 

Any ordinary soil. 

•Liatris. 

Gay Flower 

Rose and 
Purple 

3 ft. 

July 

Sunny location; grassy linear leaves; 
ordinary soil; spikes of rosy- 
lavender flowers. 

Lythrum Roseum. 

Loosestripe 

Rose 

3 to 4 ft. 

June and July 

Does well in any good rich soil; in 
any location. Forms huge clumps, 
so allow plenty of room; tall 
spikes of rose flowers. 

Matricaria. 

White 

2 ft. 

June 

Rather low growing for border. 

Feverfew 



•Monarda— Bee-Balm.... 
didyma rosea 

Rose-red 

4 to 5 ft. 

June and July 

Forms big clumps; any good garden 
soil; sun or partial shade. 

Monarda. 

purpurea 

Lavender 

4 to 5 ft. 

June and July 

Forms big clumps; any good garden 
soil; sun or partial shade. 

‘Oenothera. . .. , 

(Evening Primrose) 

Y ellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

June to Septem¬ 
ber 

Sunny, rich soil, though will grow 
on limestone, rocky hills. 

Peonies. *..... 

Various 

3 ft. 

May 

Shade from afternoon sun; rich 
soil. Do not plant too deep. 

Pentstemon. 

Any variety 

Bluish Laven¬ 
der &. Scarlet 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

Foxglove-like in shape; any good 
garden soil; full sun. 

Pinks. 

Mixed 

1^ ft- 

May 

Easily grown; full sun. 

Pinks (Dianthus) . 

Mixed 

iy 2 ft. 

May 

Easily grown; full sun. 

‘Phlox— Hardy. 

Various 

Shades 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Very rich soil; do not cultivate too 
close to plant; water freely; shade 
from afternoon sun. 

Phycelhjs Capinsis. 

Cape Fuchia 

Scarlet 

2 to 3 ft. 

June 

Pentstemon-like flowers on tall 
stems; sunny location matures; 
hot, dry weather. 

•Physostecia. 

virginiana 

Pinkish- 

Lavender 

3 to 4 ft. 

August 

Sunny location; tall spikes. 

Platycodon— Balloon 
flower (graniflora) 

Blue 

3 to 4 ft. 

July and August 

Well-drained location; leave in 
same location indefinitely. 

Pyrethrum. 

Mixed 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

Any location; rich soil; plenty of 
water in dry weather. 

Rudbeckia— hortensia. ... 
(Goldenglow) 

Yellow 

5 to 6 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Free flowering; sunny location; ex¬ 
cellent cur flowers. 

‘Rudbeckia— Coneflower. 
(purpurea) 

‘Salvia. 

1. azurea. 

2. farinacea. 

3. Pitcheri 

4. leucantha 

Purple 

3 ft. 

July 

Purple coneflower. 

Blue 

Blue 

Blue 

Blue 

Orchid 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

4 to 5 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Sunny location. 

Santo lina. 

Yellow 

8 to 12 in. 

May 

Sunny location. 

(Lavender Cotton) 



tSCABIOSA. 

Mixed 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Well drained; sunny location; good 
rich soil. 

Sedum. 

Mixed 

1 to 2 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Sunny location; well-drained soil. 

Statice. 

Purplish Blue 

l H ft. 

June and July 

Sandy loam; sunny location. 

Stokesia .'. 

cyanea 

Blue 

18 in. 

July and August 

Well drained; sunny location; sandy 
loam; put ashes around crown 
in winter. 

Sweet William. 

Mixed 

14 in. 

April 

Free flowering; sun or semi shade. 

Thermopsis. 

caroliniana 

Yellow. 

2 to 3 ft. 

End of May 

Lupine-like plant. 

Valeriana. 

officinalis rubra 

Rose 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and most all 
summer. If faded 
flowers in Septem¬ 
ber, cut oft. 

Dry summer border; prefers limy 
soil. 

Veronica.. 

Blue 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 
most all summer. 

Good ordinary soil 


fRequires Special Care. ‘Native. 

PERENNIALS GROWN IN NEW MEXICO 


Achillea 

Ageratum 

Amhemis 

Campanula persicifolia 
Petunias 


Platycodon 

Statice 

Shaster Daisy 

Valerian 

Veronica 


‘Artemesia 

‘Gaillardia 

‘Physostegia 

‘Phlox 

‘Verbena 


This information was furnished by Professor Adlai Feather of State College, Mesilla Valley, New Mexico. 







































HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


87 


PERENNIALS—BIENNIALS 

* Achillea (Yarrow)—Many uses have been found for this feathery- 

leaved plant, whose brilliant pink, rose, orange, yellow or white flat- 
topped flower-heads are so attractive and ornamental. As an herb it was 
used by the mighty Achilles at the seige of Troy, and since then medi¬ 
cine has found a number of uses for its leaves, stems and blossoms. It 
prefers a moderately moist, rich soil and a sunny position. (See page 96.) 

*Ageratum ( Eupatorium )—The fluffy blue and rose-lavender flower- 
heads of this easily grown, fall-blooming plant much prized both for its 
range of shades of blue and for its varying heights—dwarf, medium 
and tall varieties being available. A . . lasseauxii, introduced from South 
America, has handsome vivid rose-colored flowers. All varieties may be 
grown from seed quite easily, sewn out of doors in spring. 

*Amsonia—The lovely terminal spikes of plumbago-blue that rise from 
this rather shrub-like bush in March and April make the "Blue Texas 
Star” a valued addition to the garden, for it will grow in any good soil 
and requires only a moderate amount of moisture. The four native 
varieties, named for Amson the noted American physician, have each 
adapted themselves to the exacting soil requirements of the four princi¬ 
pal types of soil—acid, lime, neutral and adobe. 

Artemesia—See page 51. Dusty Miller, Wormwood, Sage Brush, 
Tarragon. 

*Asclepias (Butterfly Bush)—The rough, hairy, leafy stems of this most 
beautiful milkweed spring erect from a deep, tuberous root and bear 
at their summit umbles of brilliant orange-scarlet flowers in May. 
Named for the Greek God of Medicine, its various medicinal qualities 
have long been recognized. Swaying in the sun this handsome plant is 
most attractive to butterflies, its waxy mass of pollen being greatly 
relished by them. 

* Asters —Delicate and dainty-looking as these fall-blooming, amethyst, 

golden, blues of many hues and white appear, they are quite sturdy and 
hardy. Many varieties and heights are native in Texas, and have found 
their way to the gardens of the world, generally known as Michaemas 
daisies. 

*Baptisia (False Indigo)—Indigo-blue flowers in long racemes spring 
above delicate bluish-green bushy foliage, borne on milky, grey-green 
stems in magnificent, lupine like clusters, in May. B.. australis (blue) 
and B .. tinctoria (bright yellow) are better known than is B . . leu - 
cophaea (cream-colored). All are native to Texas and all yield dye, the 
roots being also valued medicinally. The plant grows much taller after 
the blooms die. 

*Boltonia (False Chamomile)—Large, single, aster-like flowers borne at 
the tip of long, daisy-like stems are a mass of blossoms in the fall. B .. 
asteroides is pure white ,while B.. latisquama is pink tinged lavender 
and has a dwarf variety. . narta. Boltonia is tall-growing, generally. 


88 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


*Callirlioe (Poppy Mallow)—Fringed, rosy-crimson or wine-colored, 
poppy-like flowers borne on long, slender stems rising from the axils of 
dark green, finely divided foliage—produced all summer and fall—give 
this semi-trailing perennial a unique place in the garden scheme. It 
grows widespread on the hills, throughout Texas and is the subject of 
legend the world over. 

Datura—(See page 115.) 

♦Eryngium (Sea Holly)—The deep purple, ornamental, spiny bracts that 
tip the thistle-like cone-shaped flower-heads of this plant—with its 
tlin, deep-cleft foliage and stems covered with hair-like, needle-sharp 
spines makes this fall-blooming plant both unusual and attractive. 
Cut at the right time, it may be dried and is much used in winter 
bouquets. 

*Euphorbia—These plants of very diverse habits and appearance are 
mostly hardy, thriving in the open, and, in Texas, weed-like in their 
profusion in their native habitats. E .. marginata (Snow-on-the-moun- 
tain) is annual, but E .. heterophylla (Poinsettia, Christmas Flower, or 
Painted Leaf) is a gorgeous shrub in the Rio Grande Valley, and E .. 
corolata is a most attractive perennial, with showy white appendages, 
prefering light soil and fairly dry situations. Euphorbias are all milky 
or juicy and are cultivated for their curious shapes, ornamental foliage 
or unusual characteristics. 

^Evening Primrose Family ( Oenothera )—This large family boasts many 
types, heights, habits of growth, and shades of yellow, rose-pink and 
white flowers of varying size, poppy-like in shape and quality of petal, 
usually. Texas has most of these varieties in greatest profusion. Best 
known in the garden, perhaps, are O.. missouriensis (large yellow flow¬ 
ers on semi-trailing plants, becoming most attractive seed-pods). O. . 
Hartmannia speciosa (large fragrant white flowers with small foliage; 
excellent for massing—variety . . rosea having rose-pink blossoms); O . . 
caepitosa (dwarf variety with pink or white blossoms, crinkly-petalled 
O .. Fraseri (dwarf with yellow flowers) and O .. fruticosa (tallest, 
perhaps, and of stocky form bearing bright lemon-yellow flowers). 

*Gaillardia (Indian Blanket ) (Firewheel)—These bright yellow and red 
perennials, biennials and annuals grow readily and are hardy quite far 
north. Of the many native Texas varieties there are those that have 
become suited to all climatic and soil diversities. G .. grandiflora of 
commerce is the G . . pulchella, whose dwarf var. is called "Goblin,” and 
the var. in which the yellow predominates is known as G .. sulphurea 
oculata ("Mr. Sherbrock”). G .. picta and G .. aristata (annuals) are 
distinguished for their deep red centers. G . . chrysantha (bright yel¬ 
low) prefers semi-acid sand as does also G. . lanceolata (red tipped 
petals). There are many combinations in the petals, varying from all¬ 
yellow, yellow-tipped on red (vice versa) bright red, carmine to deep 
fire-reds or maroons and many so-called hybrids that have been devel- 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


89 


oped from the original plants, valued additions to the garden from 
early summer until frost. 

*Liatris (Blazing Star) (Gay Feather)—These tall, erect, showy herbs 
produce long racemes of flowers on wand-like spikes—in shades of 
lavendar, purple, bright rose-red or white. L.. pycnostachya (rose- 
purple) , L .. spicata (purple), L .. sacriosa (deep purple), L .. punctata 
(lavender)—in fall, and may be dried for winter bouquets. They vary 
in height from dwarf (8 in.) to more than three feet, being determined 
both by type and situation, responding to rich soil and moisture if given 
in moderation. These plants are native to the South and Southwest. 

* Lobelia (Cardinal Flower)—This exquisite, intensely red flower has 
wide distribution. Its massive flower-spikes are set with glossy, cardinal- 
red blossoms. It has long been in cultivation, requiring a great deal of 
moisture and peaty, or acid soil and preferring half-shady places. L . . 
syphilitica differs from L .. cardinalis (red) in the vivid blue hue of its 
flower-spikes and has a var... alba that bears white flowers. 

Monarda (Fragrant Balm)—M . . didyma —named for the Spanish writer 
on medicinal plants, Nicholas Monardez, this showy plant of the horse- 
mint family produces a profusion of pale rose-lavender, rose-purple, 
maroon, scarlet, and deep purple flowers, very striking in mass-effects. 
Prefers dry, sunny well-drained position. Called also Bergamont or 
Oswego Tea. 

*Penstemon (Beard Tongue)—The glossy leaves and pastel shades of 
rose-lavender to white tinged with purple found in the native P. . 
cobaea contrast with the scarlet of P.. Torreyi , the blue, lilac or white 
of P . . ongustifolius, the bright blue to purplish of P .. glaber all native 
to the dry hills of the Southwest. A number of hybrids have been de¬ 
veloped from these, all lovely variations of the canterbury bell-like 
spikes of the native var. 

^Phlox’—The Phlox family boasts annual and perennial varieties. Among 
the daintiest of the perennials, preferring rich loamy semi-acid soil and 
partial shade is the P.. pilosa , whose narrow leaves and habit of growth 
as well as preferences is similar to P.. divericata (fragrant, deep-blue 
or pinkish-blue flowers) P .. subulata (Moss Pink) is almost a ground- 
cover growing tufted and matted and bearing a profusion of light blue, 
lavender, pink or white flowers on very slender stems and almost cover¬ 
ing the fine, light-green foliage. P.. Drummondii f the annual Phlox, 
has many shades from brilliant scarlet to rose to white and shades of 
cream and yellow. It is indispensable in the garden for early spring 
bloom, and is followed by the many varieties of Hardy Phlox (peren¬ 
nial) whose handsome massed flower-heads give splashes of color for 
many weeks. 

*Physostegia (False Dragonhead)—On upright, wand-like tall stalks the 
lavender, purple, rose or white flowers appear like a succession of gradu¬ 
ated, wee bells ranging to an abrupt point or peak. The leaves are long, 


90 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


narrow, toothed and the lower ones tinged purple. P .. virginiana (and 
its hybrids) is much better known than P. . denticulata , a lower, more 
slender plant. Both are native to the temperate zone. P.. virginiana var. 
speciosa is the tall form, while var. alba is the white-flowered and P . . 
gigantea , the giant form with deep rose (tinged lavender) flower-spikes. 

Poppies—See p. 92. 

*Queen Anne’s Lace—There are two plants called this name, both 
native. Chervil ( Chaerophyllum) sweet-scented herb, biennial (though 
sometimes perennial or annual) has a flowerhead of white, many-rayed 
umbel-formed florets; both lvs. and fls. are lacy in appearance. Slender, 
erect stems. Tuberous roots, carrot-like, though grey or blackish-color. 
Edible. The Daucus differs in that its flowerhead is borne on a sturdier 
stalk, not branching; and the seeds have hooks that attach themselves 
to clothing. Some var. have blood-red or violet colored roots. Both 
plants are very ornamental, Daucus being much coarser in texture; may 
readily be grown from seed. 

Ruellia—Slender stemmed herbs, bearing lovely blue, bell-like flower- 
cups resembling petunias prefer semi-shade. R . . penduculata (Blue¬ 
bell) * is deep rich blue. R . . drummondiana ,* bluish-purple with white 
markings (sometimes all white). R. . Occidentalis (Wild Petunia) * all 
grow from seed or cuttings. R .. Harveyana —native to Mexico and the 
Texas border, has violet or lilac flowers. R .. amoena from South Amer¬ 
ica, has bright red fls. as does also R . . formosa (scarlet) though it is 
tender. All prefer rich soil. 

Salvia (Sage) — (See pages 52; 112.) 

’’’Texas Plume ( Gilia rubra) (Tree cypress)—This brilliant, showy plant 
deeply resents domestication. Named for Philip Gil, the Spanish botanist, 
it is by some termed a bi-ennial, but often blooms the first year grown 
from seed. It is sold under the name of Gilia coronopifolia by some. Its 
glorious scarlet flowers dotted with yellow are borne at the tip of tall, 
swaying stalks bristling with myriads of needle-like leaves. Plant seed in 
early fall where the plants are to grow. Difficult to move plants. 

*Tradescantia (Spider Wort)—Named for John Tradescant, gardener 
for Charles I of England. This plant likes partial shade and rich loam 
though will grow in poor soil if watered. Its violet-blue, rosy-lavender 
and deep blue three-petaled flower-heads in roseates are most attractive 
among the long, lance-like leaves. It grows very rank in Texas, and 
wherever enriching, moist conditions exist. 

* Yucca—There are many kinds of Yucca (Spanish Dagger, etc., see pages 
36; 78). Although perhaps the most generally grown varieties are the 
Yucca Treculeana, whose sword-like leaves and showy white flower- 
heads rise to tree-like form; Y.. fllamentosa (Adam’s Needles) whose 
leaves are narrow and flower-stalks of cream-white bellsloose and lovely; 
Red Yucca (Hes per aloe parviflora) whose very long, curving, graceful 
stalks (red at the ends) bear most of the summer into the fall; bell- 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


91 


like coral-red flowers (a var. having purple flowers is native to New 
Mexico); and the Dasylirions (Sotol) the var. D .. texanum being com¬ 
monly called the "Sotol” and D . . Wheelerii, the "Spoon Cactus.” 

Semi-Tropical 

The word "perennial” has more than the usual meaning for the 
gardener in the semi-tropics, some being treated like shrubs, that 
require timely pruning, etc.; others like annuals planted in the fall 
to enjoy the blossoms in late winter or early spring; some blossom 
almost continuously, renewing themselves (such as Periwinkle, 
Tithonia, annual Zinnias, etc.); others grow gigantic when there 
are frequent rains or exceptionally mild seasons (Tithonia, Cosmos, 
Ageratum, etc., requiring support!). Those that renew themselves 
many times are not as fine quality as those that are secured from 
seed or plants from the north; but as the parent plant finishes its 
cycle of life it is gratifying to have tiny plants springing up to 
replace it. 


Among the native plants that thrive and are generally drought- 
resistant are: 

Ageratum —6 inches to 4 ft., blooms all year. Blue flower-clusterheads. 

Bluebell (Gentian) "Swamp Lily”—Poppy-like heavenly-blue cups that 
appear in April to June, following heavy rains, otherwise only in the 
low lands or swamps. 

Coreopsis—6-24 inches. Yellow daisy-like flowers. When no freeze blooms 
all winter until late summer. 

Gaillardia —6-24 inches. The outstanding plant. Brown, orange and yel¬ 
low flowers. 

Primrose "Cowslip,” or "Buttercup”—3-12 inches. Pink cups blooming 
in February to May. 

Poppy "Mexican Poppy”—( Argemone) (See page 86) "Thistle Poppy”— 
White, pink, yellow, dark red or wine (no scarlet). 1-4 ft. December 
through April. 

Salvia (See page 48)—6-24 inches. November to May. Shades of blue 
and red. 

Verbena —3-10 inches. Shades of pink-lavender to blue-lavender, not deep 
purple. 

. 



92 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Among the commonly grown cultivated plants are: 

African Daisy—1-2 ft. Very hardy. Lavender flowers. 

Begonia —6-12 inches. All colors. Blooms all year. 

Carnations (Dianthus) (Pinks)—1-2 ft. All shades. Bloom all year. 
Chrysanthemums—All shades. November to March if no freeze. 

Cosmos—Yellow, pink, orange (not deep). 2-5 ft. 

Daisies—Including Shastas. April-June. 

Geranium—All shades. Require good drainage, sun and grow 1-4 ft. 
Hollyhock—3-4 ft. Blooms all year. Single pink or red most used. 
Periwinkle (Vinca) —Excellent for dry locations. Deep pink, white. 
Peppers—Various ornamental peppers, nearly every variety. 

Perennial Phlox—2-3 ft. Lavendar-pink flowers. 

Poppies—There are a number of plants called poppies that are of very 
different families. Among those grown are: 

"Prickly Poppy/* or "Mexican Poppy”_ Argemone 

"Horned/* or "Sea Poppy**_ Glaucium flavum 

"Plume Poppy’*_ Bocconia , or "Tree celandine ” 

"Oriental Poppy”_ Papaver orientali 

"Tulip Poppy”_ Papaver glaucum 

"Water Poppy”_ Hydrocleis nymphoides 

"California Poppy”_ Eschascholtzia 

"Shirley Poppy”__ Papaver Rhaeas 

*"Primrose Poppy”_ Oenothera 

"Mexican Tulip Poppy”_ Hunnemannia 

Sea Lavender ( Statice latifolia )—6-18 inches. Orchid variety only, 2 ft. 
Snapdragon ( Antirrhinum )—All shades. Bloom February to May. 

Sweet William—Blooms all year. 6-24 inches. 

Tithonia—Blooms all year. 3-8 ft. 

Violets—Late winter to May. 

Yellow Golden Glow—4-6 ft. July to September. 

Delphinium 

Delphinium, although most temperamental, can be grown even 
in extreme climates. In the Southwest some find that they are best 
treated as annuals, planted each fall, in extremely rich soil as they 
are gross feeders. As experience has proved that either cow or sheep 
manure, if placed close to this plant, causes root-rot to develop, 
it is recommended that bonemeal be used. 

Dig the soil about eighteen inches deep and spade under sand, 
peatmoss, and tobacco dust. Then put in the plants. Do not plant 
too deep. Do not cover the crowns. 

Every spring and fall scatter a handful of lime around each 













HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


93 


plant, and a week or so later a handful of bonemeal with some 
superphosphate. Coal-ashes put around the crowns in the fall will 
help protect the plants during the winter. 

Water thoroughly twice a week during summer. When summer 
heat comes, mulch the bed. Delphinium thus cared for often may 
be had most successfully. 



Chrysanthemums 

To know the history of the origin of the Chrysanthemum is not 
at all necessary to its successful production. But, rich with age and 
legend, it holds a certain fascination, and stimulates the desire for 
a more intimate knowledge of a flower that survives, not only be¬ 
cause of its history, but because of its beauty and charm. 

The Chrysanthemum originated in China, being mentioned as 
early as the time of Confucius (in his Li-Ki) and it was developed 
to its present state of beauty by both Chinese and Japanese florists. 
Japan even adopted this flower as its national floral emblem. It was 
introduced into Europe about 1790, being sent to England by Mr. 
Cels, a French gardener. 

At the time that the first Chrysanthemums were being shown in 
Europe, the botanists had difficulty classifying this new bloom. 
Some said it belonged to the Anthemis family, while others con¬ 
tended it was surely of a Pyrethrum genus. Finally it was agreed 
to call it "Chrysanthemum” from Chrysos meaning golden and 
Anthos meaning flower. Well named, it is, too, for of all flowers 
can you think of a more cheerful one than this "Queen of 
Autumn?” 

The pompom variety, one of the hardiest types, has sprung from 
the blending of two small flowering varieties of the "Chusan 
Daisy”, introduced by Mr. Fortune in 1846. The French gave them 


Origin 


Japan’s 

National 

Emblem 


Classi¬ 

fication 

and 

Name 


Early 
Intro¬ 
duction 
Into Europe 
and America 






94 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Many Types 
Have been 
Evolved 


Select 

Plants 

Carefully 


Soil 

Require¬ 

ments 


Location 


Support 


the name Pompom because the pompom on the soldier’s cap re¬ 
sembled the flower so closely. To Peter Henderson goes the dis¬ 
tinction of introducing the Japanese varieties into America, others 
following him in rapid succession. 

The types, varieties and colors have increased immeasurably, and 
success in their cultivation has become so certain that choice of 
variety becomes really a matter of one’s taste. It is wise, however, 
to remember that for exhibition purposes, of the three varieties— 
Early, Early Mid-season and Late—use only Early or Mid-season 
varieties for outside planting. For garden varieties, this rule does 
not apply, for any variety selected may be used there. 

It is most important to use nothing but the healthiest plants, as 
there are so many things to guard against, i.e., over forced, side 
shoot plants, over-fed, midge-infected and stem-rot. So the first 
recommendation is to be sure of your stock. 

As to soil, regardless of the location (acid soil, limestone soil or 
semi-acid soil) the Chrysanthemum will do well if the soil is prop¬ 
erly prepared before planting. ’Mums are gross feeders and must 
have fertile soil. The roots, too, are near the surface, hence require 
generous watering, but good drainage. Soil should be fairly heavy 
rather than too sandy, equally composed of two parts of black dirt 
(or topsoil), one part well-rotted cow fertilizer, one part sandy- 
clay loam, thoroughly blended. Where possible, beds should be 
raised six inches above grade to allow for drainage, as this helps 
to keep the ground from becoming sour. If one has very poor soil 
to deal with, just dig a little deeper so mat your carefully prepared 
rich soil will be available in greater abundance to nourish these 
greedy feeders. In planting, it is advisable to have them twelve 
inches apart in each row and the rows at least twelve inches apart 
or more if possible, as ’Mums need good air circulation on all sides. 
The time to plant ’Mums is spring. Lift clumps, pull apart, and 
replant—discarding the woody center. 

Adequate means of support are necessary, any number of ways 
being available, such as wire (or frame) stakes, bamboo rods, etc., 
placed when the time arrives when support is required. 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


95 


Liquid fertilizer, made from fresh cow manure, is applied (see 
page 19) every ten days until the color begins to show (beginning 
only after the plants have attained twice their original height at 
time of planting 1 ). In using liquid fertilizer, first water the plants 
thoroughly, wetting all the foliage, and soak again imediately after 
fertilizing. If this plan of watering before and after is not followed, 
the liquid fertilizer is apt to burn the roots and foliage. For a 
single, intensive feeding, dig a trench around the plant—about Fertilizer 
three (3) inches from the stem—and allow slow seepage (it is 
suggested from a bag-hose, a long narrow tubing made from 
fairly coarse-woven material attached to the hose) of five (5) 
gallons of liquid fertilizer (see page 18) to every twenty-five (25) 
plants or approximately one-fifth (1/5) of a gallon to each plant. 

But to gain results from this, the ground must be kept loose— 
worked almost daily—during the whole preceding season of 
growth as well as following this feeding. Work lightly. 

For garden purposes, protection is rarely provided; but, after 
the buds begin to show color, it is vital, for exhibition purposes, to p r 0 tect i 0 „ 
keep dew and rain and frost off the beds. The plants can stand very 
low temperature, but the frost and dew, particularly, are injurious 
to the buds. 

Disbudding, tying, watering all come in for their share of atten¬ 
tion regularly and much depends on this regularity. Disbudding 
(or pinching off all buds on a stem except those designed for 
maturity) is regulated by the number of blooms desired on a 
plant. For bedding purposes, little disbudding is absolutely neces- i^g^^ or 
sary, but for exhibition purposes, it is essential to confine the blowers 
number of buds left on the plant to about two blooms. Disbudding 
must be done continuously to insure success. 

Watering must be done unstintingly. A thorough watering, 
using a pretty stiff pressure, is most beneficial and necessary to keep 
the leaves free from dust, to keep the plants healthy and to help Waterm & 
control Aphis, Red Spider and Mealy Bug. Care should be used not 
to wet the buds that are showing color. 


96 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Pests 

Insects 


Stem Rot 


Old 

Fashioned 

Varieties 

Again 

Popular 


There are several insect pests and diseases that must be guarded 
against, so that the foregoing hints on culture, if followed, leaves 
only two or three more dangers to combat. The hardest to control 
is Mealy Bug which attacks the leaves, and the Black Alphis which 
sucks the sap from the tender shoots. Both are controlled by nico¬ 
tine sprays. 

Midge, or Stem Rot, is not to be controlled by spraying or in¬ 
secticide. Pull up any plants affected and destroy by burning and 
applying a light application of hydrated lime to the soil where the 
plant was pulled. "Quasol” (and other similar remedies), diluted 
to specific directions is also helpful. Midge or Stem Rot is the 
Chrysanthemum’s worst disease. It shows itself only at blooming¬ 
time (by turning a sickly yellow and wilting over night). Should 
the leaves turn yellow from over-feeding, however, give the plants 
an application of copperas water. 

The original Chrysanthemum, as it was introduced, was of the 
hardy type but for many years the florists* variety has completely 
overshadowed the old-fashioned kind. The trend of taste is swing¬ 
ing back now to give the original single and pompom style an 
equal chance and many gardens will again be graced by the cheer¬ 
ful flowering of the "Pyrethrom Aureum” or Golden Feather, 
"Anthemis Coronorium” or summer Chrysanthemum, "Arctotis 
Grandis” or African Daisy and the many, many varieties of Pom¬ 
poms, besides other members of the Compositae. 

The dwarf Chrysanthemum "Amelia” is most interesting, be¬ 
ginning blooming in June and continuing until frost. Its clusters 
of pink flowers remind one of the old-fashioned Azaleas. 

Chrysanthemum Koreanum: 

Important additions to the fall garden are the Chrysanthemum 
koreanum whose unique value lies in their extremely early flower¬ 
ing. The blossoms are daisy-like in appearance, in white and bril¬ 
liant colors, and are borne on wiry stems that make them excellent 
cutting flowers. 

Propagation is by division (in the spring)—although they resent 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


97 


yearly disturbance. They require little care, being neither affected 
by drought, nor heat of summer, nor cold of winter. They require 
no staking, or winter-covering. Any but the poorest soil satisfies 
them. 

The first introduced were single and lovely. But the double ones 
have proved to be equal in brilliance, importance, and beauty. 

Types of Chrysanthemums: 

The several types of chrysanthemums differ so greatly in the 
character of their flowers that for convenience in identification the 
entire chrysanthemum family has been arbitrarily grouped under 
a number of descriptive headings. These group-names have large, 
medium and small types—both in size of blossom and in height of 
plant. Among the most important of them are Pompoms (Incurved 
and Reflexed), Anemone and Pompom-anemone, Button, Daisy 
(including small and large Single), Ragged (or Hairy), etc. 

Hybridizers have centered their efforts toward creating summer¬ 
flowering varieties, so that there may be a wider choice in time of 
flowering. In making selections, note the time given to expect 
blossoms, that the cycle of bloom may thus be extended. 

Cascade Chrysanthemums: 

A most interesting effect can be gained by training a certain 
type of Chrysanthemum to grow downward, making a shower 
effect, and forming what is called Cascade Chrysanthemums. There 
are a number of varieties susceptible of being trained in this man¬ 
ner, particularly those with small daisy-like blossoms, for it is the 
multitude of blossoms that create the shower effect. 

Among these Takamakie, yellow; Shoji, red; Sakurogari, laven¬ 
der; Momo-Nonaka, pinky salmon; Mikageyema , white; make 
medium-sized plants; while Kiho , yellow; Entei and others make 
larger specimens. 

When the plant is about twelve inches high, place beside it a 
wire stake, or light flexible bamboo rod, four or five feet long, at 
an angle of forty-five degrees. Tie the main shoots to this and keep 
the lateral growth pinched off, except the six or eight runner- 


98 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Directions 

for 

T raining 


The 

Japanese 
Legend 
of the 
Chrys¬ 
anthemum 
Varieties 


branches that are to be allowed to mature. Gradually lower the rod 
until the buds appear, when the support must be removed, allowing 
the plant to fall downward in a shower, sometimes as much as six 
or eight feet, taking extreme care not to snap the brittle stems. 

To secure uniform development an even distribution of light 
over the plant should be controlled, by placing it beside a wall with 
the support pointing north. After the buds appear a southern ex¬ 
posure is needed to bring them to their proper maturity. 

Since Chrysanthemums require the short-length day to blossom 
(see page 139), it is suggested experiments be tried using paper 
hoods for each individual plant (or canvas covering over a num¬ 
ber) when desiring to force an early bloom—in or out of doors. 

Legend 

Japanese folklore lends to the "Queen of the Autumn” an inter¬ 
esting legend of its origin which surrounds it with an atmosphere 
of romance. One beautiful moonlight night a young girl, wander¬ 
ing in a garden, gathered a blossom and began to pull off the petals 
one by one to see whether her lover cared for her or not. Suddenly 
a little elf stood before her and, after assuring her that she was 
passionately adored, he added, "Your love will become your hus¬ 
band and will live as many years as the flower you may choose has 
petals.” He then disappeared and the maiden began her search for 
a flower which should have the greatest number of petals. At 
length she picked a Persian Carnation and with a gold hair pin she 
separated each petal into two or three parts. Soon her deft fingers 
had increased the number of folioles of the corolla to three times 
the original number and she wept with joy to think of the happi¬ 
ness she had been the means of assuring her future husband. 

And so the Ki-Kti, as the Japanese call the chrysanthemum, was 
created hundreds of years ago in a garden with the moon shining 
over the flowers, the streams, and the little bamboo bridges. 

—Minnie L. Marcus. 


Jlnnuals for a Season 

^ /HE ideal garden contains a balanced proportion of the various 
kinds of plants suitable to its special location. Shrubs for 
backgrounds and in those spots where dignity and strength are 
needed; bulbs for early blooming and later to supply the beauty 
and elegance that only the Lilies can give; and perennials for con¬ 
stancy and dependability of bloom. Yet no garden can be inde¬ 
pendent of the Annuals. 

The gardener with forethought selects a sheltered but sunny 
spot where, early in the spring, the seeds are planted, or if space 
does not permit, prepares the seedpans or "flats”, knowing full well 
that when the bulbs die down or for some unforeseen reason the 
best-loved perennials wither and die, these cheerful, quick-growing 
little plants will brighten the bare places. 

Petunias, that can supply one with almost any color desired; the 
Chinese Forget-me-not (Cynoglossum) with its sprays of lovely 
blue flowers; and the Eschscholtzia, best known as California 
Poppy (which can be transplanted with care) are a group of 
rather low-growing plants most dependable for the reserve supply. 

Annuals can be found to supply almost any need. An entire 
garden can be arranged using only this type of flower. But to do 
this, one must carefully plan the arrangement, and study the 
height and time of blooming of each variety to be used. 

The beds and borders must be prepared the fall preceding the 
year of bloom; for many seeds, such as Larkspur, with its double 
flowers of white and shades of blue and pink; Cornflower (Cen- 
taurea) or Bachelor Buttons, the newer of which includes a wide 
range of color; Candytuft and all types of Poppies, and annual 


The Ideal 
Garden 


Reserve 

Seedlings 


Petunias 

Annual 

Forget- 

me-not 


Wide 
Variety 
of Choice 


Prepare 
Beds for 
Larkspur 

Poppies 

(Seep. ) 

Phil ox 


99 


100 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Save 

Special 

Seed 


Phlox 


Larkspur 


For 

Spring 

Planting 


Cosmos 


Phlox (Phlox Drummondii) should be planted in the fall, that they 
may make sufficient root-growth to insure a long period of bloom¬ 
ing. Once planted, most annuals will drop their own seeds, and will 
not need replanting for several years. After that, the flowers seem 
to deteriorate, and fresh, new seeds should be secured. Select only 
the largest and finest blossoms, mark them, and allow them to ma¬ 
ture for seeds! By keeping all other seedpods removed, the plant 
will bloom longer and more profusely; the season will be pro¬ 
longed; and the undesirable types will be eliminated. 

Phlox, one of the first of the annuals to blossom, continues to 
flower until early summer. It is most effective if a large area is 
provided where shades of but one color are used . . . for example, 
the lightest tones of pink shaded to red. Do not buy packets of 
mixed seeds. Selected colors give better results, larger blossoms and 
more true to shade. Phlox thrives in poor soil, and Clarkia, also. 

Larkspur in drifts of pink and shades of blue give a marvelous 
effect. The double varieties are almost as lovely as their cousins, the 
temperamental Delphinium. Red Poppies, and blue and white Lark¬ 
spur are lovely growing together, but the Poppies must predom¬ 
inate. 

There are a whole host of lovely flowers whose seeds may be (see 
page 126) planted in the spring .in the place they are to occupy all 
season, although many of these do not resent being transplanted. 
Clarkia and annual Scabiosa are most interesting, but in the South¬ 
west they are not very well known. 

A number of the annuals are specially valuable as their time of 
blossoming can be controlled by judicious planting. For instance, 
Cosmos planted in the fall will bloom much earlier than if the 
seeds are sown in the spring. Calendula is equally adaptable. Other 
plants can be found that have a number of varieties that bloom at 
various seasons. Stocks, Coreopsis and Asters exemplify this type. 

Snapdragons often live through the winter, so are in effect per¬ 
ennial, but are not really dependable as a garden flower, because 
they are very tender and subject to pests and disease. 

"Painted-leaf”, or annual Poinsettia, and Kochia are excellent as 


ANNUALS FOR A SEASON 


101 


shrub substitutes; while Four o’Clocks, annual Hollyhocks, Bush 
Morning Glories, and a large spidery plant called Cleome,* give 
height where desired. Cleome has a profusion of odd, white or 
rather pale, blossoms that need to have lavender and red-purple 
Petunias beneath them to enhance their delicate beauty. 

Petunias are so valuable! In addition to the single, there are 
gorgeous double varieties. All drop their seed like Larkspur and 
Poppies, but cannot always be counted on to come true to color. 

The Verbena, another dependable annual, has been greatly im¬ 
proved, the newer varieties having softer shades and larger florets. 
It is not generally realized that with liberal win ter-covering (see 
page 13 5) a bed of Verbenas may be preserved from year to year. 

It is difficult to recognize a number of the old garden favorites, 
for the new varieties are so much larger, their season of blooming 
is longer, and even the range of color has been enlarged. 

Candytuft and Sweet Alyssum divide honors with annual Ager- 
atum and garden Pinks (Diant/ms) as border plants. 

Nasturtiums, single and double-flowered, continue to hold first 
place in the hearts of new gardeners; they give the greatest pro¬ 
fusion of gay blossoms when planted in new, rather poor soil. The 
tall-growing varieties require more space, unless given a support 
over which they may be trained, yet their reward for the extra 
care is an abundance of much larger and more colorful blossoms 
than to be secured from the dwarf varieties. 

Marigolds can be planted among them to carry the blooming- 
season into the fall, as they have the same coloring. Notable among 
them is a variety whose leaves do not have an unpleasant odor, and 
the fact that they offer such a wide selection of types from which 
to choose. 

The brilliant tones of the autumn leaves are often reflected in the 
blossoms of the late-blooming annuals. The vivid red Cockscomb 
(Celosia), the decorative Castor Bean* and bright-orange Tithonia 
(the largest and tallest of the annuals), many of the Zinnias, and 
the fall-blooming, orange Klondike Cosmos (of which Hardie’s 
early-flowering Orange Flare , originated by David Hardie of Dal- 


Fall 

Annuals 


Border 

Plants 


Vivid 

Nasturtiums 


Fall 

Colors 


Versatility 
of the 
Zinnia 


102 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


las, received the unanimous choice of all the judges in the All- 
American competition for new varieties in 1935). 

It is interesting, also, to note that a surprisingly great number 
of the dependable garden plants, not native as far north as Texas, 
have come across the Rio Grande—from Old Mexico. Among these 
are the Dahlias, Marigolds, Argemone (Prickly Poppy), Tithonia, 
Russelia (popular for patios and gorgeous in hanging backets and 
window boxes), and the Zinnia. 

* Argemone alba (white Prickly Poppy) and A . . rosea (dusky- 
red) are rather tail-branching, stout-stemmed plants with many 
needle-like spines on the stalks and leaves. They enjoy good soil 
and will reseed themselves if undisturbed. The foliage, greyish in 
tone, hugs the cup-like blossoms so that they appear as a host of 
butterflies alighted upon the branches, half hidden among the 
leaves. 

The Cassias"'—shrub-like in growth (see page 62) provide 
beautiful, showy, golden-yellow splashes of color in the late spring 
and are prized for their velvety leaves, also. 

The almost flat, thistle-like, rose-lavender blossom-heads of the 
"Star Thistle” (Centaurea americanaj* or Basket Flower, make a 
fine display rising above their rather coarse leaves. They propagate 
readily and grow about three feet tall. These are lighter in color 
than the plumed biennial Circium austrinum (Thistle)"' whose 
leaves are more or less spiny and flowers rose-purple to deep purple, 
both the leaves and stems silvery-looking. Hummingbirds line their 
nests with the down of the seed-pods of these thistles. 

It is not generally known that the annual Coreopsis (variety . . . 
tinctorial) is what is called "Calliopsis”. This tall, graceful plant 
bears a profusion of yellow flowers—usually with red at the base 
of the petals and yellow centers borne at the tips of wand-like, 
wiry stems. They are fine for cutting and increase the color-range 
of the perennial " C . .. grandiflora pastel-shades of pink, white, 
lavender, etc., and are succeeded by the deeper yellow-orange of 
the fall-blooming Klondike Cosmos. 


ANNUALS FOR A SEASON 


103 


For height and color in the back of the flower bed, where there 
is room for sufficient spread there is no hardier family than the 
Helianthus, whose types vary as widely as the Zinnia of today. 
H .. . Maximiliani * grows from two to eight feet and is as showy 
as the Flollyhocks. H ... mollis * is much shorter, has downy foli¬ 
age, blooms earlier, and bears a wealth of lemon-yellow flowers in 
contrast to the golden disks of the taller variety. All of the sun¬ 
flowers and goldenrod (Solidago) take room for spread but are 
most effective if used advisedly. Planted in the same section of the 
garden with the various Salvias,* create interesting contrasts in 
color and texture. 

It is amazing how many of the dependable garden flowers are 
denizens of the Southwest and how many of them have not been 
greatly altered by cultivation or hybridization. There are a few, 
however, that have been greatly enhanced in beauty, size, color- 
range and height. Those that remain relatively unchanged usually 
demand more room than the average gardener is willing to allot 
them, for they often retain a look of the untamed in their sprawing 
habits, or are coarse in texture, or flamboyant in vivid coloring, or 
size of bloom. Definitely these belong in the natural, or informal 
garden! 




104 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Versatility 
of Zinnias 


When to 
Feed 


Wide 
Choice 
of Colors 


Of Many 
Heights 


Zinnia Culture 

Just as every family boasts of one outstanding member, so the 
Zinnia must be the pride of the whole tribe of the annuals! It is the 
one outstanding plant to be used for all purposes. It can be planted 
early to be a part of the spring border, or the seeds may be sown 
in the reserve bed to fill in the bare spaces. 

In late May it can be planted among the Larkspur and Poppies 
to surprise one with blossoms soon after the other plants have been 
pulled out. Or, the seeds may be planted where they have some 
shade—during July and August—for the late season’s flowering. 

When Zinnias are several inches high, the ground may be loos¬ 
ened and a fertilizer added to nourish the plants, to encourage 
them to produce larger and better blossoms. 

The fact that the Zinnia, like the Gladiola, rarely fails to bloom 
six weeks after planting, makes it invaluable to the gardener. Hie 
blossoms that were merely tolerated in days gone by because of 
their harsh colors have been so cultivated until now the loveliest of 
shades can be secured to harmonize with every color scheme. 

There are varieties to supply every need; very tall bushes with 
enormous blossoms that rival the Dahlias, and even a low-growing 
type with exquisite miniature flowers! 

Zinnias, as listed, diminish in height, and in size of blossom— 
(1) Giant-flowered; (2) Dahlia-flowered; (3) Picotee; (4) Chrys¬ 
anthemum-flowered; (5) Dwarf; (6) Lilliput, or Pompom. 

Yet, with all its good qualities, few people really love the Zinnia. 




Those who are sojourning for a time in a location that is not 
permanent, need not therefore be deprived of the joys of owning a 
garden. There are quick-growing annuals and vines to fill every 
demand; and Iris acquired can be moved from one location to an¬ 
other at any season. 


PLANTS FOR SPECIAL USES 


105 


Fall Bloom or 
Berries 


For Tropical 
Effecs 



Shrubs 

Abelia 

Althea 

Bush Morning Glory 
Crape Myrtle 
Dusty Miller 
Flowering Willow 
Ilex decidua 
Ligustrum and Privet 
Poinciana 
Sumac (Rhus) 

Vitex 

Vines and Trailers 
Cypress Vine 
Morning Glory 
Perennial Pea 
Petunia 

Queen’s Wreath 
Scarlet Runner Bean 
Thunbergia 
Trailing Lantana 
Verbena 

Bulbous Plants 
Canna 
“Rain Lily” 

“Spider Lily” 

Tuberose 
Water Lilies 

Annuals and Perennials 
Ageratum 
Alyssum 
Calendula 
California Poppy 
Chrysanthemum 
Cleome 

Cosmos (Klondike) 
Cockscomb 
Datura 
Eryngium 
"Evening Primrose” 
Four o’Clocks 
Goldenrods 
Hardy Asters 

(Michaelmas Daisies) 
Hibiscus (Mallow) 
Lantana 

Liatris (Gay Feather) 
Marigold 

Mexican Prickly Poppy 
Petunias 
Plumbago 
Roses 
Salvias 
Snapdragon 
Sunflowers 
Zinnias 


Agaves 
Aloes 
Bamboo 
Banana 
Bougainvilla 
(in South) 

Canna 
Castor Bean 
Catalpa Tree 
Chinaberry Tree 
Coleus 
Crinum 
Datura 
Elephant Ears 
(Caladium) 

Fig Tree 

Fountain Grass 

Geranium 

Gourds 

Grapevines 

Hibiscus 

Locust Tree 

Mullein 

Magnolia 

Oleander 

Ornamental Pepper 

Pampas Grass 

Palms 

Palmetto 

Papaya 

Rubber Plant 

Sycamore Tree 

Trumpet Vine 

Yuccas 


i i i 


Old-Fashioned 

Favorites 

Cape Jasmine 
(Gardenia) 

Martha Washington 
Geranium 

Moss and Brier Rose 
Tuberose 




Choice in 

Vines 


Securing 

Small 

Plants 

Advised 


Tubers 


Soak 

Large 

Seed 


Vines and trailing PI ants 

Restful corners, gay arbors and sheltered nooks, or the welcome 
shade of a lacy trellis—all suggest clambering green things—some¬ 
times studded with flowers, sometimes rich with berries or fruit, 
often merely one of the soothing tones of green. One may choose 
from the host of possibilities a Climbing Rose instead of a Vine, or 
a Honeysuckle, that also must be trained, may appeal or be more 
suitable in coloring and fragrance for a special purpose than one 
of those plants that cling. The range of choice in the field of 
climbers is as varied as is that of any other classification of plants. 

If early bloom is desired, with accompanying deep shade in sum¬ 
mer and fall, the Wisteria’s delicate panicles of lavender or white, 
one of the first flowers to appear in the spring, come before the 
leaves are scarcely out. The Jasmines, in variety, range in color 
from white to yellow, while Clematis may be had in white, rosy- 
carmine, and deep, rich purple. These all are most successful when 
small plants are secured, rather than try to grow them from seed 
or cuttings. Moonvines that are tubers and the gorgeous Mexican 
Morning Glories, too, should be gotten from the nurserymen. An 
old-fashioned favorite, the delicate-flowered Madeira vine, with its 
showers of white stars, and the fall-blooming, rosy-carmine racemes 
of the Queen’s Wreath (known also as "Mexican Love-Vine,” the 
Antigonon leptopus, "Rosa de Montanta”, or Coral Vine) are the 
tubers which require protection in the northern part of our section 
of the country. (See page 108 .) 

Most of the Morning Glories (Ipom-eas, in variety), the members 
of the Pea family that climb (Sweet Peas, etc.), the Runner Beans 
and the Kudsu Vine all grow from large seed that give best results 
if soaked in water over night before planting. They range in color 


106 


VINES AND TRAILING PLANTS 


107 


almost the round of the color-wheel. Our native Passion Flower 
(or "Maypop”), with its lovely blue flowers, should be more gen¬ 
erally used. It is as easily grown from seed as the Mimosa, or Sen¬ 
sitive Plant with its delicate puff balls of rose, or yellow. 

Balloon Vine (Love-in-a-puff, or Hearts-East), the native Coral 
Bean and the Dwarf white Morning Glory, thrive here in their 
native habitat, reseeding themselves. Everlasting or Perennial Peas, 
the Dolichios (Hyacinth or Jack Bean), Weeping or Trailing Lan- 
tana, Thunbergia and Dutchman’s Pipe are all grown easily from 
seed—the latter not requiring rich soil or space conditions. 

The Silver Lace Vine is a vigorous grower that gives best results 
from small plants. Its showy sprays of white are as effective as the 
Cobaea (Cup and Saucer Vine, or Cathedral Bells), which, like the 
Balsam Apple, and the Balsam Pear, grow rapidly and well from 
seed. A curious fact about the Cobea is that in planting the seed 
must be placed edgewise , and be merely covered with light soil. 
The Canary-Bird Vine with its sprays of yellow, unusual flowers 
that are so valuable as decorations for they keep so long after 
cutting, also grows rapidly from seed. Our native Woodbine, or as 
it is better known, Trumpet Vine, with its orange-scarlet or yellow 
flowers is of vigorous, though woody, growth and flourishes in 
almost all conditions, growing best, however, from small plants. 

Another native plant that is very ornamental, used often in 
decorating, is the small and shiny-leafed Smilax that climbs high, 
so can be secured in very long sprays. Gourds and grapes in variety 
are also decorative both in leaf and fruit, being especially effective 
on arbors and trellises. Boston Ivy and English Ivy have no fruit 
or flowers and are of slower growth; while the Virginia Creepers 
(H...Engelmanni y H...quinquefolia and H...heptapbylla) , the lat¬ 
ter the native Texas variety, grow rapidly and differ from each 
other largely in size of leaf. All these grow best from small plants, 
not seed, and are valued for their foliage, and in the color range of 
tones, or in the fall-coloring of their fruit or berries. Ficus re pens 
and Euonymus Radicans both are evergreen and glossy leaved. 


To Secure 
Small 
Plants 
Recom¬ 
mended 


Non- 

Flowering 

Vines 


108 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

VINES 

(Not Native) 


Antigonon leptopus (Queen’s Wreath 
or Mexican Love Vine) P. 
Rose-scarlet, pea-like sprays, blooms in 
the fall. 

Rosa de Montana, also Coral Vine. 

Balsam Apple (Momordica 
balsamina) S. 

Fine green leaves; apple-like fruit. 
Balsam Pear (Momordica Cbarantia) S. 

Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis tricuspidata 
veitchi) P. 

Shiny leaves; no flowers. 

Butterfly Runner Bean S. 

Rose flowers. 

Canarybird Vine (Tropaeolum Canari- 
ensis) S. 

Yellow flowers. 

Cardinal Climber (Ipomea Quamoclit 
Hybrida) S. 

Star-shaped scarlet flowers. 

Cobaea splendens (alba) S. 

Bell-shaped purple flowers. 

Confederate Jasmine 
(Tracbelospemum) P. 

Star-shaped white flowers. 

Clematis paniculata P. 

C. Jackmann,Hl\ie. 

C. Texensis, Scarlet. 

C. Crispa. White flowers. 

Cypress climber 

(Ipomea Quamoclit) S. 

Star-shaped red and white flowers. 

Dutchman’s Pipe 

(Aristolcchia sipho) S. 

English Ivy 

(Hedera gracilis and he dr a helix) P. 
Waxy leaves, no flowers. 

Gourds in variety S. 

Ornamental climbers. 

Grapes in variety P. 

Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie) 

“Gill on the Ground” (Nepeta) 
Ground Myrtle (Vinca Minor) P. 
Ground cover; blue flowers. 


Honeysuckles in variety (Lonicera) P. 
White and yellow, red and orange 
flowers. 

Jack Beans (Hyacinth Bean) 
(Dolichos) S. 

Clusters purple and white flowers. 

Jasmine nudiflorum P. 

Yellow flowers. 

Jasmines in variety P. 

Madeira (Mignonette) 

(Boussingaultia basilloides) 

Tuber; delicate white flowers. 

Moonflower S. 

Large white flowers. 

Morning Glories in variety S. 

Rose, blue, white flowers. 

Morning Glories blue (Ipomea rubro- 
caerulea) and Mexican Blue S. 

Blue, yellow flowers 

Perennial Pea (Lathyrus) P. 
Lavender-rose flowers. 

Petunia 

Semi-climber; many colors in flowers. 

Pueraria (Japanese Kudzn) S. 

Rose purple flowers. 

Scarlet Runner Beans 

(Phaseolus multiflorus) S. 

Scarlet flowers. 

Silver Lace Vine 

(Polygonum aubertii) 

Small white flowers in clusters. 
Thunbergia in variety S. 

Yellow-orange flowers. Open sun. 
Weeping Lantana (Sellowiana) S. 
lndolucrata, Native. 

Semi-climber; lavender flowers. 
Winter Creeper (Euonymus 

radicans or Euonymus kewensis) P. 
Wisteria chinensis P. 

W. Floribunda Macrobotrys. 

Sky-blue flowers. 

W. Magnipca 
W. Multijuga. 

Pale lavender blue flowers. 


Legend: S.—Grows from Seed; P.—Secure Small Plants. 



VINES AND TRAILING PLANTS 


109 


NATIVE VINES LISTED IN COMMERCIAL CATALOGS 

Legend: S.—Grows from Seed; P.—Secure Small Plants. 


Name 

Ampelopsis heptaphylla (Tex¬ 
as Virginia Creeper) quin- 
quefolia P. 

Balloon Vine (cardiosper- 
mum halicacabum), Love- 
ixx-a-puff or Heart’s Ease. 
S. 

Bignonia (Trumpet Vine) or 
Woodbine. (Tecoma) P. 

Campsis Radicans. 

Chamberlynie. 

Speciosa. 

tCl tnnis coccmea (Vienna), 
P ed Leather Flower”. P. 

Coral Bean (Erythr'ma her- 
bacea). S. 

Cross Vine. 

Evovulus (White Trumpet 
Vine) Sericesus. S. 

Mimosa (Sensitive Plant) 
fragrans. S. 


Passion Flower (Passiflora) 
"Maypop”. S. 

Portulaca (Flowering Moss) 
Ground cover trailer. S. 
Rattan Vine. P. 
Sarsaparilla (Carolina 
Moon see). 

Smilax. P. 

Glauca (Catbrier). 
Virgins Bower (Clematis). 


Color 

Flowers greenish and incon- 
spicous; berries dark blue, 
in clusters. 

Flowers white. S. 


Flowers orange-scarlet, vig¬ 
orous, woody growth. 
Yellow. 

Lavender. 

Flowers red, hidden in very 
thick foliage. Native. 

Flowers scarlet. 

Dwarf Morning Glory. Flow¬ 
ers solitary, grows in dry, 
open places. 

Borealis, Western variety; sti- 
gillosa, Gulf Coast. Flowers 
pink, fuzzy balls, similar 
to huisache, and yellow 
balls. 

Flowers dark blue. 

Flowers rose, red, blue, yellow 
and lavender; leaves fleshy. 

No flowers. 

An evergreen with small, 
shiny leaves, used for deco¬ 
rating. 


Flowers deep scarlet. 


Remarks 

Very attractive to all the 
birds. 

Prefers moisture. 


"Red” Trumpet Vine. 

(Tecoma grandiflora) 
Flourishes under all condi¬ 
tions. Full sun. 

Grows in shade; limestone re¬ 
gions or riverbottoms. 


Poor soil. 

Grows on dry, gravelled lime¬ 
stone hills. 


Will grow in arid regions. 

Will grow in arid regions; 

does not climb. 

Very prolific grower. 

Scarlet berries. 

Climbs high. 


fNoTE: All Clematis require light, well-drained, loamy, very deep soil. They are gross 
feeders, and require a great deal of water. In times of drought water slowly and deep. Bugs 
are very fond of them! 


TO PRESS SPECIMENS 

In lieu of a special Botanical Press when on field expeditions, experience has proved 
that the best manner to preserve specimens of all types of plant-life.. . . Place them in Wet 
or dampened newspapers, turning in the ends of the paper to exclude the air until they 
can be transferred to fresh, dry newspapers, and be placed under heavy weights. Carefully 
lay out the specimen to show the flower, or that characteristic specially desired (passing 
a slightly heated iron over the paper covering it, is suggested as an aid in preserving 
color) before placing under pressure. Do not bruise in handling! 




Continuous 

Bloom 


Appreciation 

by 

Botanists 



Southwestern 
TS[ative Plants 
of (farden Value 

^ ONG has the colorful Southwest been noted 
for its wealth of beautiful wild flowers. This 
vast region presents a continuous pageant of bloom from early 
Spring until frost tinges the leaves many hues and the brilliant 
winter-berries gleam on the hillsides and prairies. 

One of the first explorers in the sixteenth century, writing home, 
marveled at the natural beauty of the land and its abundance of 
plant growth. Tradition says these sixteenth century Spaniards and 
French Crusaders brought to this land, from the Holy Land, the 
lovely blue Lupine, our “Bluebonnet”. It has, since, carpeted the 
land, and, like the verdant hills of its native Syria, is freely inter¬ 
spersed with golden-yellow Daisies, Buttercups, Coreopsis, rich 
scarlet “Wine cups”, and brilliant red tree-cypress (“Texas Plume” 
Gilia-Rubra ). 

In many cases it is still rather difficult to determine the habitat 
of some of our most widely scattered plants. It has been argued 
that armies surging back and forth for the past four hundred years 
have scattered the seed in transporting food for their cavalry. 
Freight-trains, too, traveling the length and breadth of our prairies, 
have transported seed in the grain, and packing, in their strings of 
boxcars (and recently the highway beautification has had its part 
in transporting plants often far from their native haunts). 

Later, in the first part of the nineteenth century, thousands of 
seed and plants, native to the Southwest, were collected, mounted 
and shipped to the great botanical centers of the world by Berlan- 
dier, Drummond, Charles Wright, Lindheimer, Lincecum, Fendler, 
von Roemer, Prince Paul of Wurtemberg, Edward Buckley, Wisli- 
zenus, Jacob Boll, John Drinker Cope and Julien Reverchon, work- 


110 


SOUTHWESTERN NATIVE PLANTS OF VALUE 111 


ing for such internationally famous botanists as Dr. Asa Grey of 
Harvard, Dr. George Engelmann of St. Louis, Prof. Louis Agassiz, 
Prof. William J. Hooker of Glasgow (later Sir William Hooker of 
Kew) and other great European collectors and experimentalists. 

Today, more than most people realize, many of those flowers 
most treasured by gardeners in every land have been developed from 
the wild denizens of the "prairie country. ,, A few varieties remain 
just as they were first seen in Nature’s Garden, while others have 
been superseded by more attractive hybrids, whose colors and man¬ 
ner of growth are often quite different from the parent stock. 

Probably our best known, most appreciated ffower is the Phlox 
Drummondii (see page 89), the seeds of which were introduced by 
Thomas Drummond into Europe in 183 5. The flowers of one of 
the two distinct groups of these annuals are more rounded, while 
those of the others form tiny stars. The several plants vary also in 
height (being dwarf, intermediate, and tali), and in the range of 
their colors. 

In popularity, the Gaillardia is second only to the Phlox. Marked 
effects of cultivation, however, are seen in its size and form, al¬ 
though nothing of its brilliant coloring has been lost. 

Because of the fact that plants indigenous to a country will 
thrive better there than will any importations, an effort has been 
made to secure a comprehensive list of those that are offered in the 
catalogues of commercial growers. 

The potential value to the gardener of these sturdy bushes and 
flowers that are so peculiarly adapted to climate and soil conditions 
is only beginning to be appreciated. 

W. A. Bridwell of Forestburg, Texas, who has spent more than 
thirty years studying native Southwestern plants, has said: 

**A fact now known to many gardeners is that our natives are much 
more adaptable than xerophytic plants from other countries. 

"Another fact unrecognized is that Texas probably has more bulbous- 
rooted wild flowers than any other state in the Union. So far as I know, 
the Fern, Cheilanthes tormentosa, is found in no other state; and we have 
the finest Amsonia to be found anywhere. 

"We have the largest assortment and the most brilliant bloomers of the 
great family, Euphorbiaceae, except South Africa. 


Source of 

Many 

Varieties 


Compara¬ 
tively Few 
on the 
Market 


112 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 











SOUTHWESTERN NATIVE PLANTS OF VALUE 113 


"Our Cacti also are wide in range. 

"Our Wild Plums are the finest to be found. 

"The exquisite Southern Maidenhair Fern ( Adiantum Capillus-Veneris) 
is more plentiful here than anywhere else; and the same is true of the pur¬ 
ple Cliff-brake ( Pellea atropurpurea ). 

"In Eustoma Russellianum we have the most gorgeous-flowered Gentian 
known, and in Sabatia Campestris and Erythraea Beyrichi the most bril¬ 
liantly colored. 

"Our native Barberry ( Berberis trifoliata) (Agarita) is evergreen, and 
grows where those from Asia and the Pacific Coast wither and die. 

"We have the largest assortment of Gay Feathers, Liatris punctata , sca- 
riosa, squarrosa and pycnostacbya. 

"The finest Lobelia (Lobelia splendens ) reaches a development that is 
finer here than in other parts of the West. 

"In Penstemmon grandiflora and Penstemmon Cobaea we have the big¬ 
gest and finest on earth. 

"Our Salvia Bit chert is the finest hardy sage known and our Rosa folio- 
losa is the only wild rose fit for a rockery. 

"In Ephedra we have one of the strangest plants known, and it comes 
to us from prehistoric times unchanged. 

"In one thing only I have to haul down the Texas flag. The New Mex¬ 
ico Phlox ( Mesoleuca ) is one of the finest natives on earth, and undoubt¬ 
edly the finest Phlox for rockeries. It bears clear pink, white throated 
flowers, as big as silver dollars, blooms all summer long and the plant is so 
small you can cover it with your two hands. It may possibly lap over into 
West Texas, but I know of none native there/’ 

Mrs. Lee Newbury, another authority on native plant-material, 
to whose research this book is largely responsible for its compre¬ 
hensive data on native plants of garden value , has said: 

"That prominent member of the beloved Lupine (pea) family, Lupinus 
texensis (Bluebonnet), is known and admired by everyone, especially those 
who have been fortunate enough to see a hillside covered with their beau¬ 
tiful blue blossoms. Too rich soil or too much water causes rank foliage 
growth at the expense of flowers. They bloom best in well-drained soil, in 
full sunshine. 

"To allow them to reseed, the plants must be undisturbed until the pods 
have popped open, but if seed is planted it is best to soak them overnight 
before they are sown, and for best results this should be done no later than 
September. 

"It is said our Bluebonnets will not grow (except by replanting) across 
the Texas border. Perhaps this is because they are often a biennial that lies 
dormant a season. It is true they sometimes will flower the first season, 
sometimes will not even germinate. 


114 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


"Our Gaillardia,* Solidage (Goldenrod) ,* and Calliopsis ( Coreopsis tinc- 
toria) are used extensively. Our native Penstemon ( cobaea) (Beard’s 
Tongue or Dew Flower) is a very handsome plant, a biennial usually. These 
will grow and multiply rapidly once they have become established in the 
garden. 

"The Coneflowers are 'indispensable in the hardy border,’ Dreer says, 
thriving everywhere. Rudbeckia (orange) has a large brown cone sur¬ 
rounded by ray-florets usually bright yellow or orange, while R . . pallida 
having narrow ray flowers. R . . hirta is the 'Blackeyed Susan.’ R . . bicolor 
prefers acid soil, while R . . subtormentosa is a perennial having ashy-grey 
leaves and stems, and very hairy. The Purple Coneflower is 'Brautieria’ of 
the Echinacea family, closely related to the Rudbeckias. Its ray-petals are 
quite long, drooping, and a lovely rose-purple to deep purple, its cone also 
being a bit different in shape. There is a rare native having yellow rays. 
Similar to these, though smaller flower-heads, are the Ratibida (Nigger- 
heads) . 

"All the ray-petal florets are indiscriminately called 'daisies’ by those 
who are not botanically inclined. There are, however, some eight or nine 
distinct daisy varieties native to Texas that make an assortment for the 
garden that is unequaled. Berlandier’s daisy has woolly leaves on white 
stems, yellow petals on flat disks that turn from green to red or dark pur¬ 
ple when mature, and prefers acid soil rich and moist. Engelmann’s daisy 
and Lindheimer’s are both yellow and seem to thrive almost everywhere. 

"The Huisache, Butterfly or Honey daisy, (variously called) Amblyolepis 
setigera —has large, fragrant, yellow flowers borne on bluish-green, milky- 
veined stems, with long, narrow foliage. Growing en masse, its fragrance 
is delicious. It is not particular about soil or conditions. 

"The Paper daisy, whose yellow ray-flowers pale and turn paper-like 
with age, has densely soft, woolly foliage and, like the Rock daisy (M elam- 
podium cinereum), is somewhat low growing, an inhabitant of the moun¬ 
tainous part of Texas that easily adapts itself to the plains or prairies, 
neither being choosey about their habitation. The Rock daisy is white. 

"The Actinella ( Tetraneuris linearis ), or 'Monitoto,’ also yellow and 
woolly, flowers much earlier than the Paper ( Bailya multiradiata) or the 
Rock daisy, and has an unusually long flowering period and is remarkably 
drought-resistant. 

"The Bluff daisy ( Laphamia lindheimeri ) is low, shrubby and note¬ 
worthy for its capacity to grow out of pockets or crevices in almost ver¬ 
tical walls. Its gay yellow blossoms are often so profuse the foliage is about 
covered by them. 

"Wax-like yellow flowers opening in late afternoon give the name 'Sleepy 
daisy’ to the Xanthisma texanum, the annual whose seed are commonly 
recommended as extremely hardy plants. They grow everywhere, it seems. 

"The Texas variety of the commonly known Shasta daisy, or Mar¬ 
guerite, is the Aphanostephus skirrobasis (white flowers with yellow cen- 


SOUTHWESTERN NATIVE PLANTS OF VALUE 115 


ters), while A . . humilis has smaller, more numerous rays borne on very 
slender stems, and A . . ramosisimus will grow and flourish during droughts 
on rocky hillsides, both the latter two varieties having a decidedly purplish 
tone to the under part of their white petals. 

"Datura (Angel’s Trumpet, or Trumpet Flower), with its large, fra¬ 
grant, trumpet-shaped flowers (white or pale yellow), resembling huge 
morning-glories borne on woody, shrub-like bushes with decorative leaves, 
is one of our handsomest plants. D . . meteloides is a perennial and prefers 
moist, low ground as does D . . stramonium (grown extensively in East 
and South Texas for its medicinal qualities and uses). D. . quercifolia is 
the West Texas native. Their erect buds resemble okra, while the seed-pods 
are bur-like and thickly beset with stout prickles. They are erect when 
green but tip groundward as they ripen and split to scatter the seed. 

"The fragrant white and yellow Nicotiana are invaluable in the garden, 
especially after sundown. 

"Is there a daintier, lovelier plant than the yellow or the deeprose-purple 
Oxalis, with its exquisite heart-shaped leaves?” 

Many of the plants listed with an asterisk (*) are perennials, some an¬ 
nuals and a number are bulbous. Most will thrive in sandy, even in lime- 
impregnated loam; in unobstructed sunlight; where there is positive drain¬ 
age and sufficient water in the early period of their growth to insure 
adequate root-growth. Then, too, practically "all of these plants will 
endure temperatures ranging from fifteen degrees Fahrenheit below to one 
hundred and twelve degrees above , and humidity that varies from muggy 
rainy years to desert-like dryness” (such as experienced in 1930-31). 

TRANSPLANTING 

It is many times expedient to transplant native plants, that is, where 
there is great abundance and sufficient roots, or seed that will assure the 
continuance of natural growth; or where the plants would be destroyed in 
the path of construction, or building activities. When this is true, the 
following rules should be carefully observed: 

First: An effort must be made to give the plant the same type of soil 
it has enjoyed in Nature’s garden, remembering that many times wild 
things thrive only in close proximity to other wildlings, including those 
that surround the plant. Dig deep enough that the taproot (should there be 
one) is not injured or broken, lifting the clump out as a whole! 

Second: See that the plant is given the same amount of sunshine or shade 
to which it has been accustomed. 

Third: Transplant wildflowers, or shrubs, at the same season that it is 
advisable to move like varieties of cultivated flowers. 


116 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Science 

of 

Superstition 


Herbs 

in 

Legend 


Herbs 

in 

Medical 

Usage 


Native Plants and Herbs That Charm and Heal 

The Lore and Legend of Some Varieties of Southwestern Vegetation 

We are told that our superstitions are but degenerated forms of 
scientific facts, and that Science is continually learning from 
Superstition. The Mexican who sows Fennel in his garden knows 
that "to sow Fennel is to sow sorrow,” but he offsets this act by 
planting Rosemary and Blue Sage at his door, the former symbolic 
of happiness and the latter indicative of long life. 

It is said that Charlemagne forced his soldiers to wear Houseleek 
on their clothing as a measure of good luck; that the young, pious 
Crusader, Louis VII, courted the favor of the Iris which has "a 
sword for its leaf and a lily for its heart,” according to Ruskin; 
and where is the old-fashioned American mother who tied a bit of 
asafetida about her offspring’s neck during periods of contagion? 
A modern poet writes thusly of the native plants— 

"For flowers, like men, are finest when 
There’s least of the wild remaining.” 

Not everyone will agree with this viewpoint. Whatever the mis¬ 
sion of plants and flowers, it is interesting to note that to certain 
of them there has always been attributed particular mystical powers 
and curative properties. Nature, with her "infinite variety,” has 
seemed to have a definite fondness for the wildling. 

While the various opposing medical schools have been warring 
among themselves as to the cause and cure of disease in the human 
body, natural and primitive man has been drawing successfully 
throughout the ages from the vegetable kingdom for his food and 
medicine; and witches, sorcerers, conjurers and others with some 
knowledge of the curative value of plants have plied their trade 
to their own purposes. 

The Southwest grows literally hundreds of medicinal herbs and 
shrubs which have for long been used advantageously by the 
natives, and through this connection considerable knowledge and 


SOUTHWESTERN NATIVE PLANTS OF VALUE 117 


much folklore has been handed down. Leaves, flowers, roots, and in 
some cases the seeds, are the parts of the plant that are used for 
medicinal purposes. Boiling water, or alcohol are the mediums of 
infusion. 

The following are hut a few of the more important native medical 
herbs (many grown, or gathered, for commercial purposes): 

Blue Sage ( Salvia farinaceae) —First discovered in South Europe, is one 
of the most prolific, most common and most beautiful of the South¬ 
western blue flowers. There are several varieties, each blooming at a 
different season, which gives a rather continuous blue cast to the land¬ 
scape. A delicious and refreshing tea is made from the leaves which, to¬ 
gether with the whorls of small flowerets, should be carefully gathered 
and dried during the blossoming season. It is also much utilized as a sea¬ 
soning for meats and dressings. It is tonic, astringent, expectorant and 
diaphoretic. 

Butterfly Weed ( Asclepias tuberosa) —Milkweed family, also called 
Pleurisy Root, as the name implies, is much used for diseases of the 
lungs and pulmonary organs. 

Castor Bean (Palma Christi) ( Ricinus communis )—Spurge family, 
yields an oil that is widely known as a cathartic, and as a lubricant for 
machinery. The plant was first introduced as a medicine in 1764 by 
Peter Cavone of the West Indies. 

Croton Tea (Tea Plant and Mexican Tea) ( Croton monant ho gynus) — 
Spurge family, is a rusty colored, aromatic weed whose leaves are 
gathered while still in blossom and used for tea by the Mexicans. The 
dried leaves and stems when ground are employed as flavoring or as a 
condiment for meats, and the well-known Croton Oil is obtained from 
a variety. It is diaphoretic and sudorific. 

Damiana Mexicana ( Chrysactinia mexicana) —Is pitted with oil glands, 
and is at once aromatic and resinous. It is a tonic, stimulative and 
laxative. 

Dog-Toothed Violet (Adder’s Tongue) ( Erythronium albidum)- —A 
perennial of short flowering season, usually from March to May, accord¬ 
ing to locality, and the flowers and leaves wilt soon after being picked. 
The bulb, which is edible, was roasted and enjoyed both by the Indians 
and the early settlers. As a property it is emetic, emollient, and anti¬ 
scorbutic when fresh, but when dried, it is nutritive. 


118 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Other 

Herbs 


Mexican Wormwood ( Artemisia mexicana) —Grows abundantly here. It 
is from a close relative of our Artemisia that the Frenchman gets his 
absinthe. Medicinally it is anthelmintic, tonic and narcotic. (See page 
41.) 

Mistletoe ( Vhoradendron flavescens )—A parasite growth, is similar to the 
Old World Mistletoe which the Druid priests kept in their homes; and 
the Indian chew the leaves to cure toothache. 

Moth Mullein (Velvet, or Blanket Mullein) ( Verbascum thapsus )—Fig- 
wort family, a stout biennial whose straight, tall, wooly stem grows 
alternate, big hairy leaves that lie close to the ground mostly, is indige¬ 
nous to lowlands and moist places. According to tradition, the Romans 
of the 14th Century sprinkled the powdered seeds and roots on water to 
induce fish to bite, and they also dipped the stalks in suet, allowed it to 
dry and used them for procession torches. About the same time the 
Greeks were utilizing the leaves, which they soaked in oil, for lamp 
wicks. Roman women dyed their tresses to a golden hue in an infusion 
of the flowers. Germans carried flambeaux for festivals, mullein stalks 
covered with pitch. Humming birds employ the hairs from the leaves 
in their nest building, and primitive folk used the dried leaves and 
flowers for a smoke. The plant is demulcent, diuretic, anodyne and 
anti-spasmodic in effect. 

Senna ( Cassia roemeriana) —Senna family, was first used as a medicine by 
the Arabs. The Redbud ( Cercis Occidentalis) belongs to this family, 
and the old settlers claimed its bark would relieve chills and fevers. The 
tender buds of a kindred variety are in demand in England for salads. 
The leaves make a valuable, mild and effectual tea. It is cathartic in 
principle. 

Wild Carrot ( Daucus pusillus ) (Queen Anne’s Lace)—Is lovely as well 


Horsemint ( Monarda dispersa) —Mint family, is a perennial that got its 
name from a Spanish authority on medicinal plants, one Nicholas Mon- 
ardez. Hoarhound (M arrubium vulgare ); Skullcap ( Scutellaria drum- 
mondii) ; Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa) ; and several of the Penny¬ 
royals are near relatives, and members of the Mint family that are use¬ 
ful in the preparation of curative teas. Other herbs which are utilized 
in infusion are the Wormseed ( Chenopodium anthelminticum) , natural¬ 
ized from Europe; Balsam Groundsel ( Senecio balsamitae) ; Watercress 
{Nasturtium officinale ) as a salad is rich in Vitamin E; Plantain ( Plan - 
tago occidentalis ); Wild Parsley ( Ptilimnium laciniatum ); and the 
Violet (V iola missouriensis ). 


SOUTHWESTERN NATIVE PLANTS OF VALUE 119 


as useful. The carrot dates its domestication to the prehistoric period. It 
is reputed to have been used in Rome in Pliny’s day, and the early 
Spaniards believed the root to be an efficacious remedy for rattlesnake 
bite 

Wild Lettuce (Sow Thistle) ( Lactuca canadensis) —Chicory family. 
Herodotus speaks of its being eaten as a salad in 550 B.C., and the old 
Roman served it at his table. The plant’s milky juice yields an opium 
substitute that is used by the medical profession. Caterpillars and other 
insects feast on it, but the animal world leaves it untouched. Verily, 
"one man’s meat is another’s poison!” It is narcotic and demulcent. 

Yarrow (Milfoil) ( Achillea millefolium) —One of the most useful of 
the native herbs. Has figured in the literature, mythology, folklore and 
medicine of many lands. Its potency as a love charm, its efficacy as a 
witches brew, its curative property as a doctor’s remedy and its aesthetic 
value to the garden have made it notable. It is astringent, alterative and 
diuretic. 

Among the medicinal herbs none was more treasured by the early 
settlers than the lovely Mountain Pink ( Erythraea Beyrichii) known as 
"Quinine weed.” 1 They gathered the plants while in bloom, dried them, and 
put them to soak in good brandy; administering a tablespoonful three 
times a day as a remedy for chills and fever. 

Other medicinal herbs that flourish in the Southwest are: Nettle 
( Solanum caroliniensis ); Pokeberry ( Phytolacca decandra ); Golden Rod 
(Solidago serotina) ; Eryngo (Eryngium leavenworthii) ; Foxglove. Beard- 
tongue ( Fenstemon Cobaea) ; Sunflowers ( Heliantlms ); Wood Sorrel 
( Oxalis drummondii) ; the Kansas Sunflower ( Brauneria ); Black Night¬ 
shade ( Solanum nigrum) ; and the Jimson Weed, or Thorn Apple ( Datura 
stramonium) , Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium) . 

Among the definite narcotics to be found here are Purslane Speedwell 
(Veronica perigrina) ; Herb-of-the-Cross (Verbena officinalis ); Bitter 
Corn Salad (Valerianella amarilla) and a small, dry-looking grayish-green 
weed ( Nicotiana repanda ), commonly known as Indian Tobacco, which 
frequents city lawns and adjacent fields. What a stiff, soulless little thing 
the latter plant is! And yet, along with all the others, it has a place in the 
Universal Scheme. 

This article lays no claim to exhaustive detail; nor does it deal 
with the plants from the standpoint of medical efficacy; neither 
does it recommend their use medicinally in any form. It features 


An 

Early 

Fever 

Remedy 


Narcotics 


120 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


only those plants and herbs that are themselves classified under the 
head of Herbal Materia Medica, or such as are related to plants so 
listed, and those that have food value, with regard for interest and 
appeal, that are indigenous to the South and Southwest. 


Herbsf 

Anise (Sweet) 

Artemesia Absenthium 
(Wormwood) 

Artemesia Dronculus 
(Tarragon) 

Balm (Sweet) 

Basil (Sweet) 


for Seasoning .. . from 

Bee Balm 
Caraway (Sweet) 

Catnip 
Dill (Sour) 

Fennel (Sour) 

Leeke 

Marjoram (Sweet) 


Sunny Spots 

Menthas (Mint Family) 
Poppy Seeds for pastry 
Parsley (Sweet) 

Sage 

Savory 

Tansy (ofrank growth) 


t. . . Sow these seeds on a cloudy day. 




Propagation 

There are several ways by which the amateur gardener may suc¬ 
cessfully propagate plants and thus increase his garden by his own 
efforts without resorting to the professional grower; by seeds, 
divisions, layering, cuttings, grafting and budding. Those who can 
successfully raise plants by these various methods can bring new 
beauty to their gardens as well as share with flower-loving friends. 

I. SEEDS 

fSEED GERMINATION—“The Plant Physiologists have worked steadily for thirty 
years on the different problems of seed germination. There are three types of seeds: (1) 
Those that start to grow promptly under ordinary germinative conditions. Most plants of 
commonest culture belong here. (2) Seeds that are alive but are hindered from growing by 
something outside the embryo, such as hard seed coat, or the need of high temperature, or 
light, or increased or decreased oxygen supply. Of these factors, hard-coatedness is the one 
most apt to trouble the amateur gardener since the Legumes suffer from it and that family 
is vastly important, especially in the South, where the flora is very rich in pod-bearing trees 
and plants. Some of the members of this family start with no trouble, but if delays occur 
the first thing to look for is a hard coat. Seeds of Peas, Broom (Cytisus spp.) Lupine, 
Locust, Wisteria, and Red Bud ( Cercis ) are among those that may give trouble. Any 
method of breaking, scratching or wearing away the seed coat so the water can enter will 
promote the growth of these seeds. Soaking, rubbing between pieces of sand paper, or in 
the larger seeds filing with a three-cornered file are all good methods. (3) Seeds in which 
the embryo itself is dormant at the time when the seed is ripe and must go through other 
changes before germination can take place. It is of the greatest importance to learn to handle 
this group because it is the special characteristic of the families to which many of our finest 
ornamentals and fruits belong; the Dogwoods, the Barberries, some of the Honeysuckles 
such as Viburnum, Snowberry, Honeysuckle itself and Elder, and—most important of all— 
the Rose family where we find the Rose, both the species and the hybrid forms; Pear, 
Apple, Cherry, Plum, Strawberry, Spirea, and Hawthorn. 

“Seed with dormant embroys after-ripen, or get ready to grow, most rapidly if they 
are kept moist and cold until certain changes take place in the embryos that permits germi¬ 
nation to start. If the climate of a place is such that during the winter there will be 75 to 
90 days when the temperature of the surface of the soil is just above freezing, seeds sown 
out of doors in the fall will get enough cold weather to start them in the spring. Where 
winters are too cold or not cold enough nature may be helped by placing the seeds in con¬ 
tainers of moist peat and setting the whole thing in the icebox. Keep moist but not wet for 
two or three months, then take the seeds out and sow them as usual. Many will start when 
treated this way that would never start if planted, as soon as when ripened, in a warm 
greenhouse. Remember that in order to germinate seeds right moisture conditions are most 
important.” Persis S. Crocker, of Yonkers, N. Y. 


Various 

Methods 

of 

Propagation 


Importance 

°f 

Moisture 

and 

T emperature 


121 


122 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Growing 

Conditions 


Place to 

Germinate 

Seeds 


Soil for 
Raising 
Seed 


Many scientific experiments have been and are still being made 
on raising plants from seed, and the lay-gardener now has a chance 
to take some of the guesswork out of seed germination.t 

Several factors enter into this. First of all , the seed must be alive; 
second , the soil must be carefully prepared to suit the special type. 
The proper amount of sun or shade, as well as a suitable tempera¬ 
ture, materially influences growth. It is important also that they 
be neither too damp, nor too dry. 

FLATS 

The ideal way to germinate seed is, of course, in a greenhouse 
where temperature and moisture are evenly maintained. Under 
ordinary conditions, however, this is not possible, but any of a 
number of containers may be used. Probably the best is the porous 
seedpan, next to which is suggested the use of "flats”, or wooden 
boxes (about thirteen by twenty-one inches, being three or four 
inches deep). One may also use flowerpots, bulbpans, or even cigar 
boxes, with rare seeds placed in half an eggshell. Put a half dozen 
small holes, and pebbles or clear sand, in the bottom of the flats or 
cigar boxes, for drainage. If the flats have been used before, a wise 
precaution is to whitewash the inside to prevent possible fungus 
growth; 



Probably the ideal soil for raising seed is equal parts of sand, leaf 
mold, and loam. Some prefer equal parts of peat-moss and loam. 
Garden soil with sand and a little bonemeal, thoroughly mixed, 













PROPAGATION 


123 


may be used; or sandy loan with a little bonemeal, for the first 
transplant. Whatever soil is used should be sifted through a four- 
inch, or finer sieve. 

After placing one-half inch drainage in the container, fill it with 
well-saturated, prepared soil to within one-half inch or less of the 
top; and pack down well with a brick, or block of wood. 

Recently it has been discovered that many plants’ diseases are 
carried in the seed. This is easily prevented by the use of a commer¬ 
cial fungicide and should by all means be a part of the business 
of seed planting. Put a little of the powder in an open-mouthed 
bottle, or fruit jar, and shake the seeds about in it before planting. 

Seeds sown in "flats” or other containers may be broadcast, or 
sown in shallow drills, thinly, if care is taken not to plant them 
too deeply. Small seeds need barely be covered. Very fine ones need 
not be covered at all, but merely pressed firmly into the surface 
of the soil. These very small seeds may be mixed with sand to pre¬ 
vent crowding. A good rule for larger seeds is to plant them to a 
depth equal to twice or three times, never more than five times, 
their own diameter. After planting, moisten the surface of the con¬ 
tainer well with a gentle spray. 

In order to keep the temperature even, it is well to place glass, 
paper, or lath over the containers. Old burlap is apt to contain 
fungus disease. 

As soon as the seeds have germinated, begin to raise the cover¬ 
ing, and increase the supply of air until the young plants are ready 
for full sunlight. 

Even moisture is most essential, and should be given from under¬ 
neath whenever possible. One pot may be set into another with the 
larger one packed with peat-moss, which should be kept wet; or 
the seed or bulbpan may be put into a flowerpot saucer. Flats may 
be set into containers of galvanized iron or other cheap metal. If 
watering from below is not possible, use a rubber spray, or a rose 
spray on the hose. 1 If glass is used to cover the flats, too much mois- 

1 . . . “As glass heats up so much, it is better to use paper, lath screen, or best of all, 
cheesecloth, and water through the cheesecloth.”— Persis Crocker. 


Plant 

Disease 

Prevent- 

atives 


Depth to 

Plant 

Seeds 


What 
Cover 
to Use 


Moisture 

Needed 



124 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


ture will be indicated by excessive condensation on the undersurface 
of the glass which may be carefully lifted at one corner to give 
Care of circulation of air. (See page 121.) Great care should be taken in 

Seedlings watering the seedlings that the soil is not packed by the force of 

the water. Early morning is the best time to water. After germina¬ 
tion is accomplished, bring the young plants into full sunlight 
gradually, and give them an abundance of fresh air. While they 
may have been kept in the shade or even in the dark before sprout¬ 
ing, .it is best to remove the glass and put them in bright light as 
soon as they are up. Shade during the hottest part of the day. 


Seeds 
Soum 
in Open 


Time and 
Method to 
Follow in 
T rans- 
planting 


OPEN BEDS 

To prepare an open bed: Spade the ground, water, allow the 
earth to dry, and water again. Before the second spading, put a thin 
layer of bonemeal on top. If heavy black soil predominates, put 
three inches of sandy loam on the surface before seeding. 

Such seeds as Poppies, Annual Phlox and Larkspur should be 
broadcast in the fall; Sweet Alyssum and Portulaca should be 
sown in shallow drills or broadcast in early spring. Utmost care 
must be taken not to cover the seeds too deeply. 

Transplanting (see page 115). 

Most annuals need be transplanted only once, most perennials 
twice. Seedlings should be transplanted when the second pair of 
true, or characteristic, leaves appear. It is best to throw away all 
weaklings and use only the healthiest plants, except .in the case of 
Petunias which sometimes produce finest flowers from smallest 
plants. The seedlings should be carefully lifted in order not to 
injure their roots and, especially in the case of most annuals, should 
be placed in their permanent beds. One is repaid at this point by 
spreading rich, prepared soil about the roots of the seedlings. Press 
the soil down firmly about the roots, then water with a fine spray. 
Use shingle or cardboard protectors against the sun, if the trans¬ 
planting cannot be done in cloudy weather. It is nearly always 
advisable to remove some of the foliage, especially if the plant has 
not been grown in a pot, or if the transplanting is done in warm 


PROPAGATION 


125 


weather. Scratch the ground around the small plants before it be¬ 
comes thoroughly dry to insure aeration and looseness. 

Plants should be set out far enough apart to allow for their full 
growth and to prevent disease in the garden. 

Allow distance between plants equal to one-half their mature 
height. Thus plants which grow three feet high should be set out 
one and one-half feet apart, and those which grow only one foot 
high should be set out six inches apart. 

Most perennials need to be shifted twice. The only difference in 
the transplanting of annuals and perennials is that perennials are 
moved to a second "flat” instead of to the open ground. Put a 
handful of bonemeal to each second "flat” of soil. In raising peren¬ 
nials from seed, a shade of some sort is advisable. It is suggested 



that a shelf which holds about six "flats” be attached to the back 
of a building, over which a light screen of unbleached domestic 
should be hinged, operating with a small rope and pulley, to pro¬ 
tect the seedlings from storm and sun alike. 

After the small plants are well started, either in the second 
"flat” or in the open bed, water them every ten days with weak 
manure-water. (See page 19.) 

The roots of plants play an important part in their existence, 
be they taproots or fibrous roots. They hold the plant in position 
and draw sustenance from the soil. Taproots are highly developed 
in such plants as the Poppy and Mignonette, and care must be 
taken in transplanting not to injure them. Too deep cultivation in 
a garden may injure the fibrous roots, resulting in loss of bloom, 
and is, therefore, to be avoided. 


Distance 
Apart to 
Place 


Perennials 

Care 


Forcing 

Growth 


Root- 

Growth 

Important 


What to 
Plant 
in Spring 


What to 
Plant 
in Fall 


12 6 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

ANNUALS . . . ff WHAT TO PLANT IN SPRING” 

Annuals which may be planted in March or April: 

In Flats (or Open 1 Beds ) are: Ageratum, Alyssum, Arcotis, Calli- 
opsis, Cosmos, Cockscomb, Forget-me-not, Globe Amaranth, 
Hollyhocks (a biennual), Marigold, Periwinkle, Petunia, Por- 
tulaca, Blue and Scarlet Sage (Salvia), Scabiosa, Verbena, Sal- 
piglossis, Klondike Cosmos, Annual Pinks (Dianthus Annual), 
Baby’s Breath, Torenia. 

In Flats in the House: Feverfue, Dahlias and Zinnias. 

In Open 1 Beds: Scarlet Runner Bean, Candytuft, Cypress Bean, 
African Daisy, Four o’Clock, Moonflower, Morning Glories, 
Nasturtium. 

Valley Note (semi-tropical): 

Seeds to plant in spring for summer-flowering: Balsam (Impa - 

tiens balsamina), Bachelor Button (Gomphrena) , Blanket flower 

(Gaillardia), Calliopsis, Clarkia, Cockscomb (Celoisa), Cosmos, 

Datura, Four o’Clock (Mirabilis jalapa), Geranium,t Marigold,$ 

Petunia,t Portulaca, Salvia,t Nicotana, Zinnia. 

ANNUALS . . . "WHAT TO PLANT IN THE FALL” 

Annuals which should be started after the first soaking rain in 

September: 

In Flats or Open 1 Beds: Sweet Alyssum, Baby’s Breath, Arcotis, 
the Centaureas, Balsam, Chinese Forget-me-nots, Petunias, 
Pinks, Snapdragons, any Daises, Blue Salvia, Coreopsis, Pan¬ 
sies, Annual Poinsettias, Tithonia. 

In Flats: Calendula, late African Marigold. 

In Open 1 Beds: Bluebonnet, Candytuft, Anchusa, Clarkia, Daisies, 
Cosmos, Stocks, Four o’Clocks, Larkspur, Mignonette, Phlox 
Drummondi, Cockscomb. 


1 Where climate permits. 

"{■Indicates start in flats. ^Transplant in January. 



PROPAGATION 


127 


For Late Fall Bloom: Sow Zinnias and French and African Mari¬ 
gold in "flats” or open beds. 

It sometimes pays to take a sporting chance on hardy annuals, 
such as Zinnias, and plant a few about the fifteenth of February, 
for very early bloom. Likewise, one may fill in some empty (see 
page 100) spots in the Autumn garden by planting French and 
African Marigolds and Zinnias in July. If the proper time for 
planting annuals has been neglected, good Summer bloom may be 
obtained by planting Annual Baby’s Breath, Poppies and Larkspur 
the last of April or the first of May in the beds where bloom is de¬ 
sired, and Dahlias for Fall bloom may be started out-of-doors at 
this same time. 

Valley Note (semi-tropical): 

Depending on the variations in the weather, planting time 
ranges from late August (if there have been rains) to October 
(when no rain has cooled the ground sufficiently, and produced 
the needed humidity in the air). As a general rule the last week 
in September or the first week in October is safe. 

Plant in fall: Ageratum, Alyssum, African Daisy ( Arctotis 
stoechadifolia), Gypsophila paniculata (Baby’s Breath), Butterfly 
flower,f (Schizanthus), Candytuft, Chinese Forget-me-not (Cyno- 
glossum), Cornflower (Centaurea), Shasta Daisies,! Delphinium,! 
Hollyhock (Althea rosea). Blue Lace Flower (Didiscus), Queen 
Anne’s Lace (Dancus carota), Larkspur, Love-in-a-mist (Nigella- 
damascena), Marigolds (Tagetes% and T...erecta, or African; T... 
patula, French), Mourning Bride (Scabiosa), Nasturtium (Tropae- 
olum), Pansy (Viola% tricolor), Periwinkle (Vinca), Petunia,! 
Phlox, Pinks (Dianthus), Poppy (Papaver), and California poppy 
(Eschscholtzia), Shirley (Rhoeas), Painted tongue (Salpiglossis), 
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum), Statice, Stocks,! Strawflower (Heli- 
chrysum bracteatum), Sweet Pea (Lathyrus adoratus), Sweet Wil¬ 
liam (Dianthus barbatus), Verbena. 


tlndicates start in fUts. ^Transplant in January. 


What May 
be Planted 
in Late 
Spring 


—Mrs. Thos. /. Rives . 



128 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Time to 
Plant 


Plants which reseed themselves easily are: Ageratum, Bluebonnet, 
Calliopsis, Coreopsis, Cornflower, Cosmos, Feverfew, Four o’clock, 
Gaillardia, Larkspur, Poppies, Petunias, Annual Phlox, Portulaca, 
Queen’s Lace and Annual Poinsettias. 

PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS 

The best time for planting perennial and biennial seeds is mid¬ 
summer, but some of them may be started in April or May (Fox¬ 
gloves, Columbines, Hollyhocks, Gaillardias, Bluebonnets and the 
Campanulas). Some perennials, like Pansies, Sweet William and 
Snapdragons should be treated like annuals, be planted in the late 
Summer or early Fall. 

•{•Indicates start in flats. ^Transplant in January. 




PROPAGATION 


129 


II. DIVISIONS 

Those plants that do not set seed, or do not come true from 
seed, may often be divided at the roots, to form new plants and 
to avoid overcrowding. This is also a short cut to obtain promptly 
blooming plants. 

Whenever possible, gently separate the r^ots, using a spade or 
knife only when necessary. Some plants may be propagated by sep¬ 
arating the stolons or suckers which are formed on the old plant 
as trailing branches underground. 



Bulblets are formed in the case of some Lilies, notably the Tiger 
Lily, in the axils of the leaves on the stems; bulbels within the root 
scales of the old bulb as in the case of Narcissi and others; and 
corms, in case of Gladioli. These may be removed, and brought 
to blooming size through several seasons of growth. 

Rhizomes , the underground stems which are formed on Iris and 
Lilies-of-the-Valley, bear roots and eyes from which the plants 
develop; and may be divided and planted, if care is taken to have 
at least one eye in each portion. Shallow, horizontal planting in¬ 
sures the best results. 

Runners which root at intervals are sent out above ground by 
some plants, and spring up as new plants. These may be divided 
and set out in other places. 

Some perennials, such as Violets and Coreopsis, form groups of 
new shoots . These need to be divided to secure new plants and 
to prevent crowding. 


How to 
Divide 
Roots 


f Indicates start in flats. ^Transplant in January. 



130 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


III. CUTTINGS 

Three safe methods of increasing without variation varieties 
which do not come true from seeds are: by propagating from cut¬ 
tings; from layers; and by grafting and budding. 

Cuttings may be made from most perennials, roses and from 
trees and shrubs, either evergreen or deciduous. They may be made 
from leaf, stem, or root, according to the type of plant being 
propagated, and at any time of the year, although the early spring 
months are considered safest and best. There are two kinds of 
cuttings—soft wood and hard wood. 

Leaf Cuttings —Leaf cuttings may be easily made from such 
plants as the Begonia, Succulants, and some forms of Cactus. One 
method is to take a whole leaf, cut it through the veins and put in 
a glass jar 1 filled with moist sand. Place the leaf so that the veins 
will come in contact with the sand. The glass jar will keep the sand 
from drying out. Many cacti root very easily if the leaves next 
the stem are are allowed to lie .in moist soil. • 

Stem Cuttings —Stem cuttings are the type most often used by 
amateur gardeners. They are a safe and sure method of increasing 
stock and are to be heartily recommended for trial. It is best to cut 
off a piece about three inches long at the end of a stalk. Pull off 
all but the top leaves and put the slip in a bed of sand. Keep it 
well watered and well shaded until the roots are formed, after 
which it should be transplanted to a bed of loamy soil. The stem 
with its newly formed roots constitutes the new plant. The process 
will take on the average about three weeks. Because the food stored 
in the cells of the slip is only enough to maintain life, it must not 
be overtaxed, and hence, all but the top leaves should be removed. 


Generally, jars run up the heat too much unless the whole is kept shaded. I like much 
better to surround the cuttings with the sides of an old flat . . . lay over it one or two layers 
of cheesecloth, then water frequently. In putting the cuttings into the ground, place them 
almost parallel to the surface of the earth so that three inches of a four-inch cutting is 
buried, and the top leaves are in contact with the soil—lay them so the bottom of the leaves 
are on the soil—that cuts down evaporation, and keeps the cuttings fresh—a very important 
rule. Take lots of cuttings. If you want twenty plants get a hundred cuttings, and you are 
much more apt to succeed.— Persis Crocker. 



PROPAGATION 


131 


Soft-wood Cuttings —Cuttings from perennials are best made in 
Spring and Summer. They may be taken from Arabia, Chrysan¬ 
themum, Clematis, Coleus, Dahlias, Geranium, Hollyhocks, Del¬ 
phinium, Lobelia, Phlox, Pinks and others. 

Rose Cuttings may be made longer than perennial cuttings, 
usually from six to eight inches long. These cuttings, after being 
planted, should be covered with a glass fruit jar which should not 
be removed until the plant shows vigorous growth. 

Hard Wood Cuttings —Shrubs and trees, such as Hydrangea, 
Spirea, Pomegranate, Althea and Crape Myrtle may easily be rooted 
during the Spring months. Cuttings of mature flower-stems, six or 
eight inches long, may be planted (an inch or so being left above 
the ground) and thoroughly watered. If the cuttings are made in 
the Fall, they are best tied together in bunches, completely buried 
in damp soil or sand, and mulched. They are ready for planting 
in the Spring. (See page 63.) 



Evergreen Cuttings , made preferably in the Summer, will also 
root if the lower leaves are removed and the stripped portion 
planted in moist sand. They should remain in the cold frame until 
they are to be moved to open beds, in the Spring. 

Root Cuttings. —Those plants which do not form a mass of 
roots, but have thick, fleshy roots, may be propagated from root 
cuttings. Divide the root into pieces an inch or so long, plant in a 
flat of good soil, and keep watered and shaded until they root. This 
will take place in about a week. Root cuttings are best made in 
August or September, from such plants as Japanese Anemone, Ori¬ 
ental Poppy, and Plumbago. 





132 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Time 


IV. LAYERING 

The process of layering, employed especially with the Pink 
(Diantbus) family, is a simple and certain way to reproduce the 
original plant. It consists in rooting a part of the plant without 
detaching it until it is rooted. If young shoots are fastened firmly to 
earth, preferably near an eye or joint, and covered with earth, they 
will form calluses from which roots will soon develop. (See page 
63). The new plants may then be separated from the old and 
moved to their permanent positions. Besides Pinks of various kinds, 
Magnolia, Jasmine, Holly, Verbena, Dogwood, Honeysuckle, Juni¬ 
per, and others, may be propagated in this manner. 

V. GRAFTING AND BUDDING 

Grafting and budding both mean the union of the growing tis¬ 
sues of two plants. Grafting is the insertion of a twig bearing one 
or more buds of one plant into the growing wood of the other. 
Budding is the insertion of a single bud beneath the bark. 

The scion is the part which is inserted into the stock or rooted 
portion, which supplies food for the scion. Although the bark 
and wood tissues of the scion and the stock are knit together, each 
retains its identifying characteristics. 

The chief reasons for grafting are to perpetuate certain varieties, 
and to enable certain plants to live in different soil under condi¬ 
tions otherwise unfavorable to them. The stock is made to support 
an entirely different flower or fruit from that which the scion pro¬ 
duces after it has grown. 

Grafting should be done in the Spring after the sap begins to 
rise and is successful only in plants which form a layer of bark 
covering the wood. It is neccessary that the cambium layer, or that 
tissue lying between bark and wood of both scion and stock, be in 
contact. 

Seedlings may be grafted, thus propagating certain kinds of 
ornamental trees and shrubs; young trees (such as oranges or other 
fruits) and the trunk and branches of older trees, if the choice of 


PROPAGATION 


133 


stock is always made from closely related families. Thus Apples, 
Pears, and Quinces will unite as will Flowering Quince, Hawthorn 
and Photinia. Many Conifers also, such as Arbor Vitae, Juniper 
and Cypress may be grafted. 

After the graft is made, it should be waxed with grafting wax 
to prevent evaporation. It may be applied at each graft, either by 
hand or by means of strips of cloth dipped in the wax and tied 
tightly about the union. This process is a delicate one, requiring 
accuracy of touch and much practice; and a great deal can be 
learned from the books and nurserymen. 

—Led a Stimson Doolittle. 

VI. COLD FRAMES 

There are various ways of circumventing the seasons and gain¬ 
ing time and size and quickness of bloom. Hot Beds, cold-frames 
and small greenhouses will accomplish this. 

A hotbed in warm climates is not as satisfactory as a cold frame. 

The cold frame is so called because there is no artificial heat, 
A good size is nine by six feet, ten inches high in front and eighteen 
inches high in the back, with three glass sashes. Within this frame, 
excavate to a depth of one foot. Mix with the topsoil, sand and 
manure, (leaf-mold or compost) as follows: One wheelbarrow of 
topsoil to one-half a barrow of sand and one-half a barrow of 
manure. Mix well; sift; and replace in the frame, allowing it to 
settle thoroughly before planting. 

Sashes may be secured with double glass, with a space between 
that acts like a thermos bottle, holding the heat. Sashes should be 
attached to the frame with hinges at the top, and must be opened 
during the day, except in freezing weather. Use bricks as props, 
turning on the various sides according to the warmth of the day. 

This is an ideal way to start plants for the hardy borders, to 
be transplanted when the danger of frost is past. Where a great 
number are needed to give a mass effect, the cold frame is much 
the most satisfactory way to propagate them, and very much less 
expensive than buying them by the dozens. 


Winter 

Protection 


134 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

Seedlings in the cold frame become acclimated and develop bet¬ 
ter than plants shipped from a distance, so that often flowers 
may be had that have hitherto been thought impossible for a loca¬ 
tion because of the climate. 

One of the dangers of a cold frame is dampening off of the 
seedlings. This may be controlled by sterilizing the soil and by 
watering sparingly. 

<8 *8 *8 

In setting out small plants in the open ground care should be 
taken in lifting to keep as much dirt on the roots as possible. 
Gently press well-pulverized, soft dirt around the roots—set in 
holes just large enough to contain them—fill with water—firming 
the plants with additional dry dirt. 

*8 *8 % 

Winter Protection 

Winter protection is necessary in certain sections for a number 
of plants, particularly for Queen’s Wreath (Antigonon ), Cannas, 
Chrysanthemums, Plumbago, Lantanas, Salvia leucantha and Ver¬ 
benas. A small shovelfull of barnyard manure usually affords suffi¬ 
cient covering and has the added value of providing fertilization, 
but it has been found that sheep manure, used as a winter protec¬ 
tion is too strong. 

*8 *8 *8 

Mark your garden tools plainly to avoid loss! 

*8 *8 *8 

To test seeds’ fertility: Scatter seed on a brick or sheet of blot¬ 
ting-paper, and float (on a wood shingle) in a pan or dish of 
water, covered with a piece of clear glass. Keep in a warm room. 
The number of seed that sprout will determine the ratio of prob¬ 
able germination. 

*8 *8 *8 

Small branches of Euonymus, placed in window boxes to supply 
a background of green, will frequently take root, if kept suffi¬ 
ciently moist, and can be used later to replenish hedges, etc. 


PROPAGATION 


135 


VII. GARDEN SECRETS 

Amateurs are often confused by the apparent conflicting advice y- tme 0 j 
as to Time of Planting. Planting 

The advantage of planting seed in the fall is that a deeper root- 
system is established, insuring a much stronger plant, finer quality, Pa ^ 
and much longer season of bloom. 

However, a certain amount of success may be secured from 
planting seed in the Spring, remembering that all seed to be sown Spring 
in the Spring should be in the ground by St. Patrick’s Day. 

An easy rule to keep in mind is that Spring-flowering plants 
should be sown in the Fall; Summer and Fall-flowering plants Rule 
should be sown in the Spring. 

* 8 ? « * 8 ? 

Poppy seed must lie in the ground many days before they ger¬ 
minate, so plant them as early in the fall as possible. 

* 8 ? * 8 ? * 8 ? 

Calendulas and Dianthus sown in September in the cold frame 
are much earlier than those planted in the open. 

* 8 ? * 8 ? * 8 ? 

It is not generally known that Dahlias may be grown from seed. 

They will bloom the first year if started in March in the cold frame. 

Sow the seed thinly , in rows. Sprinkle sand over them, and tamp 
them with a small, flat board. (See page 165.) 

* 8 ? * 8 ? * 8 ? 

Transplanting Petunias and Verbenas . . . plant on a slant; and 
as the stem grows peg it down with hairpins, covering with soil. 

Each joint will take root, making a mass-planting in a short time 
from very few plants. 

* 8 ? * 8 ? * 8 ? 

An interesting fact is that often the color of a blossom may be 
determined by the stem of the small seedling. This is especially Color 
noticeable with Snapdragons. 


136 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


TIME-TABLE OF PLANTING 


In Fall 

All leaf-losing trees, shrubs, fruit trees, 
roses, and hardy herbaceous border 
plants. 

Evergreens are most successful if planted 
in fall. 

Divide Iris in early fall. May be trans¬ 
planted in clumps at any season in 
Southwest. 

Divide Hemerocallis (page 162). 

Divide, or transplant most perennials 

Divide Hardy Phlox. 

Seeds sown in fall (see page 126). 


In Spring 

Choice evergreens may be planted as late 
as April, if balled. 

Divide in early spring 
Artemesia. 

Chrysanthemums. 

Crinum. 

Daisies (Shasta). 

Hardy Asters (Michaelmas Daisies). 
Japanese Anemones (Windflower). 
Seed sown in spring (see page 126). 

Seed sown in summer (see page 104). 


GARDEN SECRETS 



COLOR NOTES 

i i i 

More brilliant color—especially the yellows 
of roses—may be secured by watering in a 
solution of one ounce of nitrate of iron (cop¬ 
per sulphate or copperas) diluted in two gal¬ 
lons of water, which is better than a solution 
of nitrate of soda. 

i i y 

Anything iron (nails, iron filings, etc.) in 
the soil around the plant will deepen pinks 
and reds. 

i i r 

Acidity of soil tends to deepen blues—blu¬ 
ing in lumps or solution; alum; peat moss; 
cypress dust, tannic acid, etc. (page 68) 
worked into soil or watered—deepen blues. 
Aluminum sulphate, one handful per plant 
each month—March, April, and May—defi¬ 
nitely deepen blue of blossom. Also Ammoni¬ 
um or Iron Sulphate. 

■f i i 

Alkalinity (lime) tends to clarify whites. 

i i -t 

Cut flowers placed in water that contains 
dye (frome crepe paper, mercurochrome, in¬ 
digo, bluing, ink or water-colors, for in¬ 
stance) will assume deeper, or extraordinary 
hues. 

■f i i 

Superphosphate (really dissolved bone- 
meal) is not only a good general fertilizer— 
produces more bloom and increases brilliancy 
of color. 

i i -f 

To increase blossoms. The phosphates: 

Superphosphate 

Potash 

Phosphorus 

Nitrate of Soda 

scattered around plants' and watered in will 
cause them to bloom more freely. 



Effect of Light on Vegetation 

The scientific basis for this chapter is found in work being 
done at Boyce-Thompson Institute for Plant Research at 
Yonkers , N. Y., by Dr. John M. Arthur and his associates. 

WHE greatest factory in the world is the green leaf of the plant. 

_ s In it, in light, the carbon dioxide of the air, with water and 

the inorganic compounds of the soil, is manufactured into starches 
and sugars—carbohydrates of one sort or another—that form the 
basis of all the foodstuffs of all the world. Every animal must draw 
its sustenance from plants in some way, for animals cannot manu¬ 
facture the foods they need. In their bodies they arrange plant 
foods into animal materials; but the green plant alone can take 
gases from the air, mineral matter and water from the soil, and 
then, activated by the tremendous energy of the sun, can trans¬ 
form these inorganic materials into organic energy suitable for 
plant and animal food. 

Foods made by the plant may be used at once in the processes of 
growth, flowering and setting seed, or the plant may store the 
manufactured materials in its body. The plant body, built up by 
this food storage, gives us wood with all its uses, coal, natural oil 
and gas, besides all the things into which these may be divided. It 
is the stored foods that tie up the sun’s energy and hold it until a 
new process releases it. The source of energy in this great factory 


Editorial Note —Much of the valuable information which is being secured from the 
experiments conducted by the scientists at the Boyce-Thompson Institute will be of vital 
assistance to plant growers in the Southwest, as their deductions explain why certain plants 
that flourish in other locations fail to thrive here. This Institute was founded in 1924 by 
the late Colonel William Boyce-Thompson, and has already become famous for its findings 
on seed germination, on the control of blight, on locating the cause of mosaic disease, and 
on the speeding up of growth and fruiting of shrubs and plants. This article has been con¬ 
tributed by Persis S. Crocker, wife of Dr. William Crocker, Director of the Institute. 


Photo- 

Synthesis 


13 7 




138 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Factors 
in Kate 
of Plant 
Growth 


.is light, and the process of food-making taking place in the green 
leaves is called photosynthesis, "Building up by Light.” 

The rate of plant growth is limited not only by the peculiarities 
of the plant itself but also by external factors, such as light inten¬ 
sity and duration, carbon dioxide supply, temperature, and water 
supply. In nature a plant rarely has an opportunity to grow at its 
maximum rate. Possibly many would grow a little faster if the days 
were a little moister, or warmer, or the sun a little brighter. In 
a greenhouse these conditions can be varied and are easily con¬ 
trolled, so scientists have long been able to tell us what are the 
highest and lowest temperatures that a given plant will endure, 
and also what temperature leads to the greatest development. 

One of the hardest things to study is the carbon dioxide supply, 
but recent apparatus, which permits the investigator to control the 
supply of that gas makes it apparent that it, too, is often the 
factor that limits the rate of the amount of growth. Three-hun¬ 
dredths of a per cent of carbon dioxide gas is present in average 
air. If in the course of an experiment the carbon dioxide is kept at 
ten times the average amount or three-tenths of a per cent, and the 
other growth factors are kept at a favorable point, plants kept in 
these conditions show a great increase in rate of growth. If the 
plants are given not only more C0 2 , but also a longer period of 
light, that is, if the normal day is supplanted by artificial light, the 
increased rate of growth is startling. 

A room at Boyce-Thompson Institute, the winter of 1928, was 
equipped with powerful lights, so powerful that their light closely 
approached sunlight, both in intensity and quality. Temperature, 
humidity, and carbon dioxide supply were closely controlled. Beside 
this room was another exactly like it, except it was perfectly dark. 
A variety of plants were placed in these rooms, some of them stay¬ 
ing in the light all the time and some being moved on a regular 
schedule between the light and dark rooms. By means of this 
experiment it has been determined how the length of the day influ¬ 
ences plant growth. 


EFFECT OF LIGHT ON VEGETATION 


139 


One thing comes out clearly, in many plants it .is the length of 
time that they are illuminated each day and not the temperature 
that brings on flowering. There are short-day plants, long-day 
plants and indifferent plants. Our Fall-blooming flowers, Salvia, 
Cosmos, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, and possibly Sunflower, are some 
of the many plants that flower on the short day. Salvia blooms, as 
a tiny seedling, .in the cold frame in the Spring, but stops and 
forms no buds at all as the days grow longer. With more than 
twelve hours of sunlight the plants grow larger and larger, but 
form no buds until the days grow shorter in the Fall. When a 
twelve-hour, or shorter day arrives, bud formation begins and flow¬ 
ering continues until frost. 



There are very few long-day plants among the greenhouse plants. 
They have no flower on a short day to do well in usual greenhouse 
conditions. So, any plants that are normally grown in a greenhouse 
are either short-day plants or plants that are indifferent. 

A plant that needs a long day for flowering is Lettuce. One com¬ 
monly hears, "The days are getting warmer, so the Lettuce will 
shoot,” but it has been determined that unless the length of day is 
more than twelve hours, the same Lettuce cannot be kept from 
blossoming, even at a much lower temperature. 

In both Lettuce and Salvia, usefulness is increased by a short 
day, because in one case we want the plant to bloom and in the 


Influence 
of Day 
Length 


Lettuce 
Long Day 
Plants 






























140 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Short Day 
Plants 


Plants 
Indifferent 
to Length 
of Day 


Latitude 

Control 


other we want it not to. By planting Salvia close to the east side 
of a building, the heavy shading the plants get in the afternoon 
will shorten their day length and hasten their flowering somewhat. 
Salvia grows well but will not flower when it receives more than 
sixteen hours of daylight—remaining vegetative when receiving 
seventeen hours or greater, yet when receiving as few as five hours 
will come into flower, though imperfectly. Chrysanthemums may 
be brought into flower much earlier by the exclusion of the sun¬ 
light for several hours of each day. It has been suggested that 
paper cups may be used for this purpose or other protective shade. 

Asters will flower on a short day, but on a funny, shortened 
stem, so the whole plant looks like a blossoming Hyacinth. Petu¬ 
nias, Nasturtiums and Sweet Peas will bloom very sparingly on a 
short day, but reserve their greatest efforts for the long ones. 

Certain plants pay no attention to day length. Marigolds, Snap¬ 
dragons, Roses and Calendulas are notable examples in the garden. 
In these plants blossoming begins as soon as the plants grow big 
enough and continues until cut off by cold weather. In the tropics 
many plants have the characteristic of flowering continuously. 

Since the length of day varies according to the latitude, from the 
twelve-hour day at the equator to the twenty-four hour midsum¬ 
mer day at the poles, it is evident that plants with definite require¬ 
ments in day length will vary greatly in their time of flowering, 
depending on where they are being grown. In general, the plants 
of the very cold regions have to be those that respond to the very 
long days by rushing through their life history at a rate unheard 
of in the regions nearer the tropics. Short-day plants have no place 
in these conditions because cold becomes a limiting factor before 
short days arrive. Just the opposite is the case in the subtropics 
where the days follow one another with little change in tempera¬ 
ture or day-length and there the plants wander through their life 
history, growing to a great size, it is true, on account of favorable 
conditions, but not rushing from one thing to another as a success¬ 
ful plant must in arctic conditions. 



PROPAGATION 


141 


How to Plant 




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Plants and seed, Sir Wm. Hooker discovered by trial, thrive 
best and are most vigorous when imported from North to South 
. . . even from North to South America. From South America 
those most adapted to North American temperate zone are from 
the heights of the Andes, not the lowlands, nor from the same 
temperature and climatic range. 


PROPAGATION 

(1) All seed planted in flats or out of doors: 
use disinfectant (see page 123). 

(2) Bulbs—especially gladioli. Dip in solu¬ 
tion of corrosive sublimate (see Bug ar¬ 
ticle). 

As preventative for lilies sprinkle sulphur 
(see Bug article). 

All bulbs may be dipped quickly in and 
out of hot water; or into a 2% lime sul¬ 
phur solution for half an hour—dry thor¬ 
oughly. 

(3) Hard-coat seeds. (Broom, Lupine, Red¬ 
bud, Peas, etc.) (see page 121). 

(4) Cuttings set in sand or soil: 

a. Soft—(Chrysanthemums, Hardy Phlox, 
etc.) 

Use white vinegar (acetic acid), 3 
teaspoons to 1 gallon water. Soak 24 
hours; Potassium Permanganate, 1 
ounce to 5 gals, water; also 

b. Hard—(woody plants, shrubs, etc.) 
Use as above except after cuttings are 
set in soil water with solution at first, 
then clear water as soon as foliage 
appears. 


QUICKENERS 

c. Carnation cuttings in sand. Water 
with Permanganate of Potash (taking 
only side shoots from center of stem). 
Teaspoon to 2 x /2 quarts water. 

d. See "Textbook of Botany” by Prof. 
Small of Belfast, for additional spe¬ 
cific information. 

(5) Bluebonnet seed: Soak in Sulphuric Acid 
10 to 20 minutes. Wash thoroughly and 
plant. Will germinate quickly and read¬ 
ily. They are especially adaptable plants 
for hillsides. 

To avoid weak stems: 

Soil devoid of silica produces weak soft- 
stemmed plants. Also too much nitrogen 
causes weak, lush growth 

To produce longer stems: 

To produce long stems, especially on early 
flowering bulbs, if the season is dry, water 
until tops of leaves appear. Semi-shade and 
moisture encourage growth, heat combined 
with dryness dwarf it. 

















The Bulb 
Season 


The 

Earliest 

Bloom 


Spring-Flowering Fulbs 

OMEONE has compared the Bulb season to a many- 
coursed meal. The blossoms of the tiny, early Spring 
Bulbs are the appetizer or relish. What greater whet 
to one’s appetite for beauty could be found? Then come the sub¬ 
stantial things—Daffodils, Hyacinths, Tulips, and Gladioli. These 
are followed by an entree of Lilies, Dahlias and Montbretias, with 
Autumn Crocus for dessert. 

A thrill of joy is experienced on discovering these dainty little 
flowers, many of the first of which are so tiny they elude the eye, 
and only reward one after diligent search. All of these early Spring 
Bulbs may be used for naturalizing under the trees or where grass 
is difficult, or they may be planted in shoals in the perennial border. 
They may be planted fairly deep and do not require transplanting 
(or thinning) for several years. 




142 


SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


143 


Glory of the Snow (Chinodoxia) has flowers of white, blue and 
rose. It is one of the first Spring Bulbs to bloom. Mass-planting 
forms a sumptuous display. It multiplies rapidly in loose soil and 
can be propagated easily from seed. 

Scilla (Squill, in variety) is one of the best Bulbs for naturaliz¬ 
ing and will succeed well in the shade, under cedars, and in moist 
places. Among the campanulata types there are ccerula (blue); rosea 
(pink), and alba (white). They bear spikes about fifteen inches 
high. It is difficult in calcareous soil. 

Anemones are considered half-hardy, so should have protection 
in coldest weather. SL Brigid is a fine strain, and shows many lovely 
shades. There are native varieties, known as "Woodland Violets,” 
indigenous to the oak wood and limestone rocks of East Texas. 

M ontbretias are among the most colorful of the Summer-flower¬ 
ing Bulbs. They are very like Gladioli and make a brilliant display 
in June and July. The blooms are produced in many flowered 
sprays on long stalks, and are fine for cutting. They are easy to 
grow, but should be planted in the Fall, three to four inches deep, 
and three to six inches or more apart. 

Ranunculas are quite tender, and must have protection. They 
have beautiful double flowers of many colors on strong straight 
stems, eight or twelve inches long. Treat them as annuals. 

Crocus come in several named varieties and are all beautiful. 
They are not dependable. In many sections should be treated as 








144 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Galanthus (Snow Drops) are very effective under hedges and 
cedar trees. They multiply well, but resent being disturbed. 

Erythronium (Dog-toothed Violet) is hardy and very early. 
There are several native varieties. The most generally known is 
light lavender, yet white, pink and yellow varieties may be ob¬ 
tained. All are very lovely for Rock Gardens, but prefer semi- 
shady places. They should be planted about five inches deep, 
melting snow and ice, so water through the winter. 

Spring Snowflake (Leucojum vernum) , like a giant Snow Drop, 
is perhaps more easily grown in all parts of the South and West 
than are most of the early Spring-flowering Bulbs. Its profusion 
of bell-shaped, pure white flowers, tipped with bright green, are 
so lovely that its failure to have a pleasing perfume is a real dis¬ 
appointment. They are very charming in large clumps where it is 
wise to let remain undisturbed for several years, under trees, or 
among other plants. Leucojum Autumnale blooms in Fall and has 
red instead of green tips on its white bells. 

Triteleias, lovely pale blue-lavender Brodiaea prefer rather dry 
locations, well-drained, loose and not too rich soil. Under Spanish 
oaks and pecan trees they seem to thrive in the semi-protection 
and semi-shade. Some varieties require moist conditions. All grow 
readily from seed. 

Muscari (Grape Hyacinths) are especially effective in mass¬ 
planting. They are bright blue and make a brilliant spot of color 
under trees. They like a loose , sandy soil , just as all Bulbs prefer , 
that they may multiply more readily. 

Hyacinths are suitable for bedding purposes. Their colors of 
yellow, pink, red, blue, lavender, purple and white, with their rich, 
green foliage, form a lovely picture, besides filling the air with 
fragrance. The Dutch and French single varieties are dainty and 
lovely. These may be used in naturalizing and are most advisable 
out of doors, and will multiply if not given too much water. 



Shortly after the World War a quarantine preventing the im¬ 
portation of Narcissus bulbs was put into effect, in the effort to 
control introduction of those insects and diseases which had at¬ 
tacked this bulb in other countries. No Narcissi of any kind were 
admitted, except under special permit, and then only in limited 

quantities for commer¬ 
cial propagation. Amer¬ 
ican growers, as an 
inevitable result of this 
quarantine, started a 
new industry as soon as 
it was definitely proved 
the Narcissus could be 
successfully grown in 
this country on a com¬ 
mercial basis. Several 
Dutch firms transferred 
their stocks, worth hun¬ 
dreds of thousands of 
dollars, to this side of 
the Atlantic. The Pa¬ 
cific Northwest and 
Virginia have taken the 
lead in bulb-growing 
and a great number of 
varieties have already 
been introduced. How¬ 
ever, America has just 
begun to know the joy 
of growing Daffodils. 



145 









146 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


MODERN DAFFODILS 

The Narcissi are divided into many very definite groups. 

It would be most difficult to name all of the types. From the 
gorgeous array offered by the catalogues it .is most bewildering to 
make a choice until one realizes that the several types follow each 
other in their time of bloom. Also, the individual varieties under 
each type offer many possibilities of having early, intermediate, and 
late flowering. 

It would be impossible to give an adequate description of the 
modern Daffodils. They beggar description. Not only in size, but 
in texture, color-harmony, types and heights, they are marvelous. 

The following outline may be of assistance to the amateur in 
choosing a representative collection. 

NARCISSI CLASSIFICATIONS 

The Giant Trumpets 

Best known of the Narcissi, perhaps, are the Giant Trumpets, 
which are distinguished by their very long cups. The blossoms are 
of tremendous size; many are all yellow; a few all white; and 
some, white and yellow. 







SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


147 


The Yellow Trumpets are valuable because of their early appear¬ 
ance and for their rich color, among them King Alfred, with his court 
of long Trumpeters, has long asserted supremacy through unusual 
adaptability to this region, literally thousands being grown in our 
sandy lands for commercial purposes. 

Soon after King Alfred begins to bloom Treserve appears. This in 
turn, is followed several days later by Robert Snydenham. The indi¬ 
vidual blossoms of each have such amazing durability that a wealth 
of bloom may be secured from a limited number of bulbs of these 
three varieties alone. Should one desire varieties of the earlier blooming 
Trumpets, Treserve and Robert Snydenham, Olympia, Weardale’s 
Perfection and Van Waverings’ Giant are the nearest to follow King 
Alfred. Emperor and Empress prolong the season, blooming about the 
time of Robert Snydenham. 

M me. de Graaff has long been considered the best all-white, but she 
is fast being supplanted by Mrs. E. H. Krelage. Weardale’s Perfection 
and Empress are very popular among the striking bi-color trumpets. 

The Incomparabilis 

Incomparabilis are among the most beautiful of the Narcissi, 
with their large cups that are shorter, or equal, in length with the 
perianth (or surrounding circle of petals). The several types are all 
yellow, yellow perianth with white cups, and yellow perianth with 
red and orange cups. Try Sir Wat kin and Will Scarlett. 

Incomparabilis Sir Wat kin begins to flower before the Long Trum¬ 
pets have gone, while later blooming varieties of the Incomparabilis 
group overlap, again, the Leedsis, the Barris and the Poeticus. 

The Leedsii 

These are the nymphs of the Daffodils. They have both large and 
small cups, in which the perianth segments are white, and the cups 
white cream, or lemon. 

White Lady, Queen of the North, Evangeline and Sirdar have all 
proved satisfactory. 

T he Barrii 

The cups of the Barrii are about one-third the length of the 
petals. 

The most outstanding of this class is Conspicious, while other var¬ 
ieties are Albatross, Lady Godiva, and Bath’s Flame. All of these have 
proved satisfactory. 

The Poeticus 

The chief characteristic of the Poeticus group is the white Peri¬ 
anth that surrounds the short, wide-mouthed cup. The Poeticus , 


148 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


or Pheasant's Eye has been named “The Poet’s Narcissus.” 

Poeticus Horace and Poeticus Recurvus are both lovely. 

The Poetaz 

No collection could be complete without a few of the late- 
blooming Poetaz, for their unusual habit of blooming in clusters 
makes them very distinct and desirable. 

The Double Daffodils 

The Double Daffodils are not generally satisfactory, often green 
and do not open well. Yon Sion is considered the best of this group 
for the Southwest, although it has many newer rivals. 

BULB CULTURE 

Daffodils require much the same culture as other bulbs. Fork 
the ground deep; and, if the soil is heavy, lighten with some sand. 
Add bonemeal and mix thoroughly. Remember that good drain¬ 
age is very essential. Always select the largest, firmest bulbs possible 
when buying, for these are usually the double-nosed, or “mother” 
bulbs, that will split .into three or more the next season. 

Plant four to six inches deep, preferably in August or Septem¬ 
ber, if they can be secured at that time. Narcissi may be left where 
they are planted for several years, or until the clumps need divid¬ 
ing; or, after the foliage has died down, they may be dug and 
replanted. 

Never cut the foliage off while green, for this year’s foliage 
makes next year’s blossoms. A good plan is to tie it up to a stake 
until mature, or browned, to keep it from sprawling untidily. 

TULIPS 

As far back as 15 54 we know that the Saracens saw Tulips in 
the gardens of Egypt. They were later carried into Western Europe 
and were seen in the beautiful gardens of Spain at an early date. 
From Spain the Dutch carried Tulip bulbs to their gardens, and 
soon their culture became an important industry in Holland. 

In the early part of the seventeenth century this cultivation of 
Tulips developed very rapidly. Everybody wanted Tulips. It was 
a fine hobby, but alas! it degenerated into gambling. A Tulip- 
mania struck the land, and soon the Dutch were gambling with 


SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


149 


bulbs as Americans do with cotton, oil and stocks of all kinds. This 
gambling lasted from 1634 to 1637. All kinds of auctions were 
held, and enormous sums of money changed hands. People of every 
walk of life tried to make a fortune. In 1637 the States of Holland 
decided to put a stop to this gambling, and issued a proclamation 
to that effect. The gambling mania was finally curbed, yet the 
fever for perfection of bulbs has never died out; so the present 
high standard has gradually evolved. 

The different groups come into bloom in this order: single and 
double-flowering Darwins; the Breeder; and, lastly, the Cottage 
Tulips. There are varieties of each of such outstanding merit that 
they retain their popularity year after year. 

Darwins are distinguished by their bright colors and tall stems. 

In Breeder Tulips one finds the blends and pastel shades. They 
are somewhat taller than the Darwins. 

In Cottage Tulips you find every shade and color. Yellow is 
found in this, and, until recently, was not to be had in the Darwins 
or Breeders. 

Tulips are best in herbaceous borders in groups, planted generally 
about five inches below the surface, sometimes a bit deeper. 



SOME NATIVE BULBS AND TUBERS 

Allium Helleri and Allium mutabile —Loose umbel of white and pink 
florets. Grassy foliage. 

Anemone ( Decapetala) (Wood Violets)—Pale blue; grow under oaks and 
elms. Found in pockets of limestone rocks; good for rock gardens. 

Androstephium ( Coerulurum) (Wild Hyacinth)—Light blue, some¬ 
times pale violet like Camassias. A low plant; good for rock gardens. 

Betony ( Pedicularis) —Purplish-bronze flowers; delicate, fern-like foliage. 
Early spring blooming; excellent hillside plant. 


150 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Blue-Eyed Grass ( Tisyrinchium varians) —Violet-blue flowers. Central 
Texas variety. 

Blue-Eyed Grass ( Tisyrinchium pruinosum) —North Texas variety. 
Good for rock gardens. 

Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium exile) —Gulf variety. Sandy soil. 

Blue-Eyed Grass ( Tisyrinchium colubrifernum) —East Texas variety. 
Sandy prairies. 

Blue-Eyed Grass ( Tisyrinchium longepedunculatum) —West Texas and 
Mountain variety. 

Blue-Eyed Grass ( Tisyrinchium minus) (Dwarf)—East Texas variety. 
Moist prairies. 

Celestials (Nemastylis acuta) —Grass-like leaves, pale blue flowers, six to 
twelve inches. 

Celestials ( Nemastylis coelestina) —Grass-like leaves, pale blue flowers, 
denizens of both the prairies and woods. 

Callirkoe ( Pedata) (Poppy Mallow)—Cherry red or deep wine; poppy¬ 
like flowers; gay on hillsides. Prefers sunny location. 

Callirkoe (Lineariloba) —Pinkish Lilac, or white. Trailing; withstands 
drought. 

Camassia ( Fraseri) (False Hyacinth)—Pale violet or blue flowers; lovely 
in clumps. Found on well-drained slopes. 

Camassia ( Hyacinthiana) —Sky blue flowers. 

Clatonia (Virginica) (Spring Beauty)—Flowers in pink racemes. Found 
thriving where the Dogwood grows. 

Dodecantkeon (Meadia) (Shooting Star)—Rose white flowers. Grows 
with Spring Beauties. “American Cyclamen.” 

Dodecantheon ( Albescens) —Lavender and rose flowers. 

Erytkronium ( Americana) (Dogtoothed Violet)—Yellow and lavender. 

Erytkronium (Albidium) —White. Grows in shade. 

Erytkronium (Coloratum) —Rose-colored. Grows in shade. 

Liatris (Punctata) (Blazing Star or Gay Feather)—Purple plumes on up¬ 
right, tall spikes. Grows well in dry, poor locations, in sun. 

Viola (Missouriensis) —Tufted, large, pale blue. Prefers semi shade. 

Viola (Rajinesque) (Heartsease)—Tufted, darker, pansy-like, blue 
flowers. 



The Lily 

The Iris 

The Tose 




/HROUGH song and story, down the ages in- 
numerable, has come the fame of the Lily, the 
Iris, and the Rose. This immortal trio continues to 
hold chief place in the hearts and minds of men. 

Lilies are the Aristocrats of the Garden, and so 
they should be treated. The exquisite beauty of a 
single stalk, against soft green (the most comple¬ 
mentary of backgrounds for a Lily’s delicacy) gives 
one that thrill of subtle pleasure which is never at¬ 
tained through mass-effect. 

Symbols that antedate written history picture the 
Lily in intimate association with Royalty, a silent 
testimony to the fact that these early rulers of men 
were capable of appreciation of the most exquisite of 
all of Nature’s offerings; and, appropriating it for 
their individual use, expressed to the world their 
haughty belief in their own and Nature’s attainment 
to perfection. 

The majesty of the Iris has long been immortalized, 
and its pictorial images have been used as symbols 
of man’s religion and emotions. To the people of 
France, their Fleur de Lis symbolizes the Chris¬ 
tian religion, and under that conventionalized 
form, Iris was chosen the royal emblem of 
the ancient monarch of the realm. 


151 











152 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Named for the Greek Goddess of the Rainbow, the Iris reigns 
in the hearts of the Southern and Gaellic peoples. Its exquisite, 
classic beauty is closely allied with that of the Lily, whose chaste 
purity is unexcelled—a true symbol of perfection arising out of 
and above the mire, untouched by its contaminating nearness! 

For many centuries in company with the Lotus of the Egyptian 
Pharaohs (the Lily of the Nile) and the Fleur de Lis of France, the 
Rose of England has been used extensively for ornamentation and 
in heraldry. With them it has shared the love and admiration of 
countless thousands. Its warm beauty nestles close to the hearts of 
men, and glows in the full bloom of their affections. 

The Rose is the Queen of the North! During the fifteenth cen¬ 
tury in England, the contestants for the throne chose as their 
emblem the Rose—the House of York wearing the White Rose, 
and the House of Lancaster the Red Rose. As both York and 
Lancaster were descendants of Owen Tudor and Queen Catherine, 
the succeeding monarchs combined the two roses in heraldic design 
into one that is known as the Tudor Rose. 

Based on the ancient fable that the heart of a Rose is never 
disclosed, from time immemorial at Council meetings the emblem 
hung on the walls was a Rose—a symbol that meant that secrecy 
would be asked of those gathered "under the Rose.” 



Lilies 


ESS than a generation ago it was the general belief that 
few Lilies could be grown in heavy lime soil (of the 
Southwest) yet, today, a number of varieties are being 
cultivated most successfully. The reason 
for this is that the information which 
'has been so generously published by the 
horticulturists who have been studying the best growing conditions 
for plants has enabled the selection of those types best suited or 
adaptable to climate and soil. 

Scientists have divided the members of the Lily family into three 
groups: (1) those that abhor lime, (2) those that tolerate it, and 
(3) those that seem to thrive under any soil condition. The type 
of soil required by each variety of Lily is often stated in the cata¬ 
logues of the commercial growers who specialize in their cultiva¬ 
tion. 

Comparatively little experimental work has been done by ama¬ 
teur gardeners with Lilies. Interest in them, however, particularly 
in the hardy varieties, has tremendously increased in recent years. 
It can be safely stated that they are becoming the most popular of 
hardy bulbs. Not a little of this popularity has come from the 
lovely Lily Regale , brought from Western China to this country 
by the revered Ernest H. Wilson. 

The Lily has been prominent in literature for thousands of years. 
Biblical writers of both the Old and New Testaments extol its 
beauty. It is probable that "The Lily of the Field” in Holy Scrip¬ 
tures was the true Lilium Candidum, the Madonna Lily, this being 
a native of parts of the Holy Land. 

Lilies are natives of the Northern Hemisphere; and extend 
around the world. China and Japan have furnished us with the 


Lilies 
in the 
Southwest 


The 

Three 

Groups 


153 



154 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


greatest number of varieties, but Europe and North America have 
quite a number to their credit. 

We are indebted to South Africa for a number of most interest¬ 
ing bulbs and lilies . . . among them, Amaryllis, Clivia, Nerine, 
Freesias, Gladioli (best known), Tritonia, Montbret.ias (easily 
grown), Ixia, Morea, Watsonia and a host of lesser known bulbs 
that bid fair to become very popular now that they may be secured 
readily. The testing of these to develop their hardiness and garden 
value presents a challenge to the venturesome gardener. 

Fritillaria imperials (Crown Imperial) is also being more gen¬ 
erally planted. It is the showiest of its specie. 

Oxalis and Coopert are native and hardy—excellent in borders. 

The Shell-flowers of Mexico—the Tigridias —bloom from July to 
frost. They require a sunny location, and are very effective. 

Lilium longifolium (Out-of-door Easter Lily) is hardy and 
fragrant. 

Lilium philipptnense formosanum is fragrant, hardy, and grows 
from two to three feet—is white marked with reddish-brown— 
and has proved resistant to winds and weather. 

Lilium auratum —the Goldband Lily of Japan—is possibly the 
loveliest of all garden flowers. It blooms in midsummer; and de¬ 
mands acid soil. 

Lily Culture 

Lilies like their bloom-stalks in the sun, but their feet cool, so 
plant them among low-growing Annuals or Perennials, or near 
shrubs. 

There are many Lilies that will grow where the Dogwood is to 
be found that will not live elsewhere. 

Soil 

“There seems to be no general agreement as to what constitutes 
ideal soil for Lilies. However, if the beds are prepared properly, 
the Lily will be grateful. My experience has been in sandy soil. Yet, 
I dig out my bed eighteen inches deep, put in about three inches 
of well-decayed compost of leaf-mold, cover this about six inches 
with natural (sandy) soil. The trench is then nine inches deep. 


LILIES 


155 


"To plant large bulbs, cover the bulb with three inches of same 
soil, then three inches of well-decayed cow manure, the remaining 
three inches cover with same mixture as first. This may apply in 
tight black or clay soil, but the bulbs should be planted seven 
inches instead of nine inches deep. (With all Lilies, be SURE to 
PRESS the bulbs FIRMLY into the sandy so that there are no air- 
pockets left under them. Root-growth will begin quicker and be 
more satisfactory.) Mix the covering soil with fifty per cent sand 
or peat-moss. 

"All Lily beds should be slightly above the level of the ground 
to give the proper drainage.” 

How to Plant 

"In planting, distinction must be made between what is known 
as stem-rooting and those which only send their roots from the 
base of the bulb. Some of the better known varieties which send no 
roots from the stem are Madonna, Super bum, Martigon, and others. 
These bulbs should not be covered with more than two inches in 



stiff soil, and three inches in sand or loam. The Regale, Super bum, 
Auratum, Speciosum and others which root both at base of bulb 
and stem above the bulb should be covered seven to eight inches in 
stiff soil, and nine to twelve in sand. It is well, before planting, to 
sprinkle sulphur generously over all Lilies whose bulbs consist of 








156 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


loose scales, as a precaution against disease (Candium being an ex- 
ample of this type). These bulbs should be slightly tilted to one 
side, and entirely surrounded with sand, to give them the correct 
drainage. 


Bulblets 

of 

Regale 

Uly 


Splitting 

Seed 


Bulblets 

of 

Lilium 
T igrinum 


Propagation 

"I have had some experience in growing the Regale Lily. When 
the stalks are about dead, remove the dirt carefully and you will 
find an inch below the surface, down at the mother-bulb, bulblets, 
one-eighth to one-half inch in diameter, which you may remove. 
Grade these to size; plant immediately, and cover about three 
inches. 

"Next year they will not bloom, but as soon as stalks become 
dry, dig and plant at once, about five inches deep. 

"The following season these bulbs will produce from one to two 
blooms. 

"The next year plant full depth, in their permanent home, and 
let them remain without disturbing for a number of years. I have 
some of these, three years old, which have had as many as fourteen 
blooms. 

"This Lily also has the habit of making the mother-bulb split. In 
lifting them after three or four years one may find several large, 
well-formed bulbs. 

"I have never grown this Lily from seed, which I understand is 
easily done. I prefer getting them from the stem, as previously 
described. 

"I have grown several thousand Lilium Tigrinum from bulblets 
which form in the axil of each leaf. Gather these while the plants 
are blooming. Plant immediately in flats, cold frames, or open 
ground. Cover two inches deep, and keep moist by mulching. After 
a year’s growth, plant five inches deep, and the following year, 
regular depth of eight or ten inches. I understand quite a few other 
varieties of Lilies are propagated in this way. Still others are grown 
from scales, and must have expert attention. 

"Lilies can be grown from seed, but seeds of different varieties 


LILIES 


157 


should not be planted together, because some kinds germinate 
within two weeks, while others require six months or more. Con¬ 
tinued moisture is needed to create germination. This is .injurious 
to young plants. If the slow-growing kind are kept moist enough, 
it would naturally dampen off those young plants that have begun 
to grow. Therefore, it is best to plant each variety in separate 
flats. 

“Lily seeds should be planted in cold frames or flats in February 
or March; but later in open ground. Cover the frames with glass 
or canvas. Barely cover seed in planting. Gunny sacks, kept moist, 
placed over the bed, quicken germination. Watch closely and lift 
the sacks as soon as the seedlings appear. Seedlings should remain 
in flats or cold frames until the following Spring. Prick them out 
and plant shallow, about two or three inches. The following year 
they may be planted in full depth, provided the bulbs are one-half 
inch or more in diameter. I mention diameter because most cata¬ 
logues describe bulbs as to size in circumference, which is very 
deceptive and disappointing to the average buyer. 

“Hardy Lily bulbs can be planted any month in the year by 
carefully lifting and planting. If possible, try to secure domestic 
bulbs. Imported bulbs are often out of the ground so long that 
they do not make a good root-system the first year. These direc¬ 
tions apply particularly to these Lilies whose bulbs are composed 
of scales or slabs. 

“A number of varieties that have a smooth, onion-like bulb 
have proved quite successful in the Southwest, as there are several 
that are native to this section.” 

Pearl Van Horn Stuart , 19)2. 

Valley Note (semi-tropical): 

The following bulbs, tubers and rhizomes are grown easily in the 
Valley: 

Agapanthus (Blue Lily of the Nile), Amaryllis, Canna, Calla, 
Crinum, Dahlia, Hemerocallis (Day Lily), Madonna or Easter Lily, 
Waterlilies, Tuberose, Gladiolus* and Narcissus. 

*Set in January. 


Lily 

Seed 


Separate 

Varieties 

in 

Planting 


When and 
How to 
Plant 
Lily Seed 


Time of 
Planting 


Smooth 

Bulbs 


158 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


LILIES NATIVE TO SOUTHWEST 


Atamosco (Copper Lily) 

Dainty, single blossom on one stem. 
Should be planted in colonies, two or 
three inches deep. 

Allium palmeri 

Rose-colored flowers. 

Allium cemuum 

"Fairy pearls,” white. 

Allium Deserticola 

White with purple midrib. Chooses 
open places, often poor rocky soil. 
Cooperia Drummondi 

Similar to penuculata. Blossoms later 
in the fall and habitually after rains. 
Cooperia penunculata (Rain Lily) 
or Fairy Lily 

White flowers on stems from six to 
twelve inches. 


Cooperia prairia or Field Lily 

Multiplies both by seed and bulbs. 

Nelumbo lutea 

Only native Lotus of the western hem¬ 
isphere. Has strange, leathery - waxy 
textured, cream to pale yellow, fra¬ 
grant blossoms, borne high on long, 
firm stalks rising directly out of the 
mud. 

Nymphaea microcarpa 

Yellow Pond Lily. 

White Lily (Zygadenus Nuttallii or 
Toxicoscordion Nuttallii) 

Grows from one to two feet high 
with numerous small white blossoms 
on branched stem. Prefers well drained 
hillsides, often rocky. 





LILIES 


159 


Umbellatum —The TJmbellatum Lilies are a brilliant addition to the 
garden. They are perfectly hardy and multiply surprisingly well in 
heavy soil. This variety does not seem to be very choosey about soil, as 
it is thriving in several locations where conditions vary greatly. Its 
blossom-time follows the Jonquils, and because it does not grow as tall 
as many other Lilies its garden value lies in mass planting or clumps 
where a strong splash of color is desired. The shape of the flower, which 
clusters at the top of the bloom-stalk, is quite individual, while its color 
ranges from yellow and orange to a brick-dusty red. Named varieties 
are usually more to be desired than a varied collection, for one may 
thus select both color and height of stem. Orange and yellow Zinnias 
and Marigolds may be planted among them, to follow them (where the 
same vivid note is needed until frost). 



Madonna (Lilium Candidum )—Madonna Lilies, like the Umbellatum, 
may be grown in groups, yet care must be taken that they never have 
a “hard” background, but must be protected by plants or shrubs having 
delicate blossoms and foliage (always remembering they should be 
planted in August). Plant shallow—not more than two inches deep. 

Tiger Lilies ( Tigrinum )—The old Tiger Lily, that is so common in many 
sections, has been greatly improved by cultivation, and the new Tigrin¬ 
um splendens is of such height and beauty that it takes its place among 
the Aristocrats when placed in the proper setting. In early Spring it 
may be planted in sand, nine inches deep, singly or in small groups. It 
requires less water than most Lilies or Bulbs. The bulbils that form in 




160 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


the axils of the leaves may be gathered, or planted by bending the 
leaves over and covering them with sand. These bulbils will grow and 
flower in three years. (See page 156.) 

Speciosum Lilies (Rubrum and Melpomene )—The most beautiful of all 
the Lilies are Rubrum, and Melpomene of the Speciosum group. The 
blossoms, whose segments curl back are not unlike the well-known Tiger 
Lily, “white, shaded rose and spotted crimson.’* In coloring Melpomene 
differs from Rubrum only by its deeper tones. The bulbs of these Lilies 
should be planted from eight to twelve inches deep, for they are stem¬ 
rooting, and bulblets form between the main bulb and the surface of 
the soil. It is preferable to plant them in the Fall, although, as with 
most Lilies, they may be planted in the Spring. Unfortunately they do 
not flower until after the Spring pageantry of blosoms has passed, 
and those who are away during midsummer fail to see the tall graceful 
bloom-stalks whose blossoms range up and down, making a joyous 
pyramid of daintiness. 

Lilium Henryi—Sometimes called the “Yellow Speciosum”, gives promise 
to prove one of the most reliable and dependable garden lilies. 



LILIES 


161 


Amaryllis—Among the most gorgeous of all the bulbous plants which 
are grown extensively in the Southwest are the Amaryllis. They are 
especially noted for their clear, beautiful tones of red. Some have solid 
color with a whitish star in the throat (Hippeastrum Reginae). Others 
have a white stripe down the center of each petal (Johnsonii ), while 
still others have every conceivable combination of red on white, which 
are seen in the so-called Hybrids, the markings of many of which are 
more pink than red. These latter may be grown from seed and, as they 
cannot be relied on as a parent stock, it is impossible to know the exact 
markings to be expected. However, all of them are interesting and 
striking. Amaryllis is one of the most adaptable of the bulb family, for 
it may be used as a window or indoor plant, or for bedding purposes 
(in a spot where they should not be disturbed for a number of years). 
















162 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus) (Blue), "Amazon Lily” (Eucharis) 
(White)—These showy, fragrant Lilies are only semi-hardy, requiring 
to be brought in doors during the Winter months. Both are most at¬ 
tractive used in tubs or pots (so necessary to create a Spanish atmos¬ 
phere in that type garden). 

Crinum—The various showy Crinums grow well in many sections. The 
well-known "Milk and Wine” blooms from August to frost. The 
"Snow-White Angel” with its crown of gorgeous white bells, begins 
blooming in May and June, and has been known to have as many as 
twenty-two flowers on one stalk. A mature bulb will sometimes produce 
five or six stalks. "Lily of the Dawn,” a lovely blush-pink, floyers from 
July to frost. The "Deep Sea Lily” flowers all season, beginning in June. 
It is a free bloomer. The flower is of good texture and is very valuable 
for cutting. Many people hesitate to grow crinum because of the amount 
of room their wide, light-green drooping leaves require. Gladioli may 
be planted rather near them, and Petunias thoroughly enjoy using their 
leaves to climb up on as a sort of natural trellis. They seem to like a 
sandy soil, and do better when the heavier soil has sand mixed in it, yet 
they will grow fairly well without the sand. [Crinum are planted , or 
divided , in the Spring at the same time that Tuberoses (see page 167) 
are planted. Place the long, large bulbs so that the top is on the level 
of the ground. With Crinum , it is never wise to let fertilizer touch the 
bulb. This is true of all Lilies. Yet they need the additional nourishment, 
or feeding, gained by placing it in the ground surrounding the plant. 
This extra nourishment will always be received by the bulbs much 
quicker if the ground is scratched or loosened well an inch or two in 
depth before scattering the fertilizer. It is appreciated especially when 
the bloomstalks are forming. They bloom more profusely if watered 
frequently.] 

Hemerocallis—The Lemon Lily or Day Lily, as the various varieties of 
Hemerocallis are known, has its place in every garden. There are many 
varieties, growing from one to six feet in height, having a blooming 
period from early Spring to late Summer. The hybrids, whose color- 
range shades from palest yellow to deep orange and tones of red with 
many having characteristic markings of dark on light, far exceed in 
size and beauty the more commonly grown types Kwanso (Double 
Orange, five feet in height) handsome and brighter in tone than the 
single Fulva (Tawny Lily) both being much deeper in tone than the 
light yellow Flava. 

Liriope (Lily Turf) (Liriope graminifolia )—With its grass-like leaves, is 
is valuable as a ground-cover. It seems to grow in any soil. Its spikes 
of lilac to deep purple flowers are not produced freely in the shade, 
and resemble a large fall-blooming Grape Hyacinth. 


LILIES 


165 


To store dahlias, for the winter, cut the stalks to within a few 
inches of the ground (in the fall after the first frost) and leave for 
about ten days. Then dig the clumps very carefully. Place them in 
the open, where it is dry, for a few days. Then place the entire 
clump in dry sand (in a dry oasement, neither too warm or too 
cool) and leave until spring. 

With Dahlias, as with all other plants, to have large beautiful 
blooms and healthy growth, the soil must be properly prepared. 
Cow manure or a well-balanced commercial fertilizer should be 
thoroughly worked into the soil a month or more before planting. 
Then respade the bed and plant. Be sure that you have good drain¬ 
age. Dalhias may be grown from seed (page 13 5). 

In the spring when danger of frost is over, cut your clumps of 
tuberous roots apart with a sharp knife (being careful not to break 
the neck of each, and leaving a sprouting eye to each . . . all the 
eyes are in the crown or upper end which is a part of the base of 
last year’s growth on stem). Plant these separately, leaving the top¬ 
most part of the sprout from one to two inches below the surface 
of the ground, the deeper planting being recommended for the 
northern sections. 



166 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


To plant, place the tuberous root slanting with the sprouting 
end nearest the surface. Cover with sand and fill the hole with two 
inches of moist topsoil. Space each tuberous root about three or 
four feet apart. 

Do not water much, for this causes decay, but cultivate the soil 
slightly, so it cannot bake. The time to water or fertilize freely is 
when the flower-buds appear. Dahlias relish sunshine! (See page 
22 .) 

When planting, always insert your stake slightly to one side, 
because a dahlia stalk should be tied as it grows to protect it against 
winds. When the tuberous root has sent up several sprouts, cut 
away all but one stalk, forcing the strength of the plant into the 
one development. 

In order to produce large blooms, disbudding is advised. This 
consists of the removal of the two side-buds in each group of three. 
If commercial fertilizer is used, place it six or eight inches away 
from the stalk and water it in. This will force maturity. (See page 
20 .) 


*8 


*8 


*8 


Peonies 

The Peony, after once planted in the right location, in a thor¬ 
oughly prepared bed, asks to be undisturbed (except for a little 
fertilizer added now and then) for years. Plant where it will be 
shaded from the hot afternoon sun. Always plant peonies in the 
early fall. 

Dig a hole about one and one-half to two feet deep. Mix sand 
and leafloam with soil. If one prefers using stable manure, place it 
at the very bottom of the hole. Cover the manure with some of 
the topsoil, so that it does not touch the large root of the plant. Set 
the root with the eyes upward. Fill in dirt around the root and 


LILIES 


163 


Ophiopogon ( Japonica )—Belongs to the Lily family, and is excellent as 
a border plant, in flower boxes or as a ground-cover. (See page 162). 
It is surprisjpgly vigorous under trying conditions. It resembles the 
Liriope. 

Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectablis) & (Dicentra formosa) —Wild vari¬ 
ety Bleeding-Heart, which is usually classed among the bulbs, has lovely, 
pendant, heart-shaped blossoms that appear in the early Spring. Its 
foliage is unusually attractive, but has the habit of disappearing before 
summer is well advanced. This plant is especially fine in a rockery, for 
its racemes of drooping, pink flowers lend contrast to those plants 
generally selected for the hillside. It must be placed in a location that 
is protected from mid-day and afternoon sun. 

Spider or Guernsey Lily (Lycoris radiata) —The Guernsey (Spider, 
Resurrection or Coral) Lily is of wonderful texture and construction, 
valuable for cutting and perfectly hardy. They become dormant in late 
spring; and the bulbs, therefore, should be planted during June and 
July. Early in September bloom-stalks appear and make a striking effect 
with their odd, unusual-colored flowers clustered at the top of the stalk. 
After blooming, the foliage starts and remains green all winter. The 
strange habits and unusual season of blooming of the Spider Lily (or 
Guernsey) and the Habrantbus suggest unusual combinations. They 
are especially effective if used in masses, or bordering shrubbery. These 
Lilies may be divided or transplanted when the leaves die. Lycoris 
squamigera (pink) and Lycoris aurea (golden yellow) have similar 
habits. 

Habranthus— Habrantbus just precedes the "Guernsey” (Spider) Lily, 
and has the same strange habit of blooming before the leaves appear. 
The flowers are a brilliant crimson. It gives excellent results plainted 
either in shade or in sun and covets neither rich soil nor cultivation. 



164 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Zephranthes ("Rain Lilies”)—Give an element of surprise and delight 
when they appear as if by magic after a rain. They multiply rapidly 
and are one of the few small bulbs that can be used successfully to out¬ 
line borders. Z. . Candida has large white cups and is very hardy. 
Z . . rosea (rose-color) has larger flowers but is less hardy. Z . . texanum , 
one of the several varieties native to Texas is a lovely yellow that requires 
loose, sandy soil. There are several varieties indigenous to Florida and 
other states. 

Hymenocallis —"White Spider Lily”—one of the largest of the native 
bulbs of the South. Is readily adaptable to ordinary garden treatment, 
although its habitat is low, swampy lands and ditches its blossoms are 
quite distinctive! 

Ismene Calathina or Peruvian Daffodil (Of the Hymenocallis family) 
—The Great Ismene is a beautiful addition to the list of bulbous plants 
which live in a mild climate although it is not hardy in all sections. 
Its large, pure white, amaryllis-like blossoms are fragrant and bring 
a distinct charm to the Summer garden. "For such beauty in an unusual 
flower, its requirements are not too exacting, although they must be 
met.” 

Gladioli —As the Zinnia is by far the outstanding annual, so the Gladi¬ 
olus is the most adaptable of the family of bulbs. It can be planted at 
intervals during the entire season, to blossom at any desired time in 
order to supply a special splash of color at a certain spot in the garden. 
It will rarely fail to produce its flower-spikes at the end of six weeks 
after planting. Its color range is almost unlimited, so that one may 
form exquisite combinations with other plants. Nothing could be more 
beautiful than the tall hemerocallis "Golden Bell,” and a group of 
salmon-pink gladioli. This tiny little bulb that produces but one flower- 
stalk a season boasts a society formed of its admirers whose hundreds of 
members are interested in its culture. Gladioli are most effective when 
planted some five or more in a circle, with a supporting stake in the 
center. They should not be planted less than five inches deep. They 
may be left in the ground, for they are hardy in the Southwest, but 
will often disappear after the third or fourth year. However, they may 
be dug each year, dried in shallow baskets, and kept in a dry, moderately 
cool place, through the Winter. Planted fairly deep, gladioli resist high 
winds and dry weather. 

Dahlias 

Among the distinct types of dahlias, that have been arbitrarily 
named (usually for convenience in identification of character of 
blossom), the principal groupings are classified under Decorative, 
Anemone, Cactus, Pompom, Peony-flowered, Single and Miniature. 


Iris 


^ / HE Iris is revered for its stately beauty; it is beloved for its 
dainty perfection. It can be found flourishing in marshy 
places and blooming cheerfully on mud and thatched roofs, pro¬ 
claiming to all its adaptability to every condition. It is at home in 
many parts of the world, yet each section produces a plant having 
distinct and individual characteristics. 


This old, yet ever new flower, is creating the greatest interest in 
the flower-loving world; in fact its popularity all but rivals the 
Tulip craze that swept through Europe some years ago. 

To appreciate a bit of its fascination, one need only possess a 
small collection of the various types with their alluring tones and 
shades. 

Horticulturalists have classified the Iris into three general groups 
—Bearded Iris, Beardless Iris, and Bulbous Iris. 

The Bearded Iris has been so classed because of the line of tiny 
hair-like fuzz that is to be found on the three lower petals, or falls , 
at the curve of their upper surface. This so-called "beard” is one 
of the distinguishing features of this class. The root-growth .is an¬ 
other item of unusual interest. This is composed of a thick, bulb- 
like root-stock that grows horizontally along the surface of the 
ground. From these "rhizomes” the feeder-roots extend down into 
the soil. The size of this root-stock does not typify the size of the 
blossoms, however, for some of the varieties having large flowers 
have notably small rhizomes. 

Bearded Iris, like roses, do not like wet feet. The chief require¬ 
ment in the selection of a location is good drainage and plenty of 
sunlight. Experience has proved, however, that they do not need as 


Classifi¬ 

cation 


Bearded 

Iris 


Character¬ 

istics 


Location 


1 69 


170 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Culture 


When to 
Plant 


Clumps 


Mass 

Effect 


much sunlight in the South as they do in the North, but will bloom 
very satisfactorily in partial shade. The lighter shades are more deli¬ 
cate if they are not subjected to the rays of the sun all day, and 
hold their color better. 



The correct way to plant Iris has caused much discussion, and 
many articles have been written on the 
subject. Possibly a different method is re¬ 
quired in each part of the country. In the 
South and West we find that the ground 
should be carefully prepared by taking off 
the topsoil, then spading deep, mixing a 
good fertilizer well into this lower soil to 
nourish the long feeder-roots and induce 
an them to grow deeply downward that the 
plant may withstand the rigors of the winds the more easily. Next 
surround the rhizomes with the topsoil, taking care that no ferti¬ 
lizer touches them, for it may cause the dreaded root-rot. 

The experience of growers has been that only the strongest plants 
can survive if planted after the ground is thoroughly heated; yet 
should it become necessary to plant them during July and August, 
cover the rhizomes well with soil, provided no water stands around 
them, and they keep quite dry. 

Planted in June they will become established before the very 
hot weather, but a small amount of soil should be kept over them 
during the summer. Plants secured near by, or subdivided in one’s 
own garden, if the roots are not allowed to become dry, can be 
safely planted at any time. 

September seems to be the ideal time for planting if purchased 
from distant growers. Planted at that time, the top of the rhizomes 
should be set just below the level of the ground. These directions 
apply to single divisions, for clumps of Iris can be transplanted at 
any time during the year if well watered. 

Iris require several years to become established if planted as 
single rhizomes; therefore, to get a mass effect, it is advisable to 
plant several of a kind in a group about six inches apart with the 



LILIES 


167 


tamp it firmly. Water thoroughly before the hole is filled, and again 
after it is filled. 

If peonies are planted too deeply, they will form large bushes 
but will never bloom. Another failure to produce bloom is botrytis 
(brown spots on the leaves) for which spray with nicotine solu¬ 
tions once a week. Set them so that the dormant buds are covered 
with earth only to a depth of from one-half to one .inch, the eyes 
just below the surface of the ground. This insures freezing of the 
roots in the winter time, a very essential requirement of the peony. 

During the winter, water the beds well about once a month. 
This moisture takes the place of the winter snows. Every fall and 
spring fertilize with bonemeal, worked into the soil with a little 
trowel, not too close to the plant. Once or twice a year sprinkle a 
little lime on the soil around each plant, and water it in. 

* 8 ? * 8 ? 

A quarter of a century ago there were three favorites in the 
Southwestern gardens that have been pushed aside for newer, more 
popular plants—the Tuberose, the Canna, and the Caladium. 

Tuberose $ 

The Tuberose is the only one of the three whose blossoms are 
treasured for their extremely heavy sweetness, although their tall 
spikes of milk-white flowers have a beauty all their own. These 
come later than most Lilies (late August and early September), 
and are perfectly hardy. There can be secured today an improved 
variety, much larger and taller, known as the Mexican Tuberose . 
Tuberoses should be planted in Spring, with not more than an inch 
of earth covering the top of the bulb, unless there is an earth-stain 
on the bulb-stalk which indicates the depth the plant had been 
covered. This is true, also, of other bulbs and tubers. 

Editorial Note:—Although most beautiful, Peonies are difficult to grow in the South¬ 
west, while Dahlias are as great a problem in some sections. 



168 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Canna 

The newer varieties of Canna demonstrate the fact that they, 
too, have received recognition and have profited by the cultivation 
and attention given them by plant experts. 

They vary in stature from two and one-half feet to those that 
tower above one’s head. Their colors, that once startled one with 
their brilliancy, have become subdued and softened, and are in 
better accord with other flowers. The blossoms are large and range 
in color from white through yellow to deep maroon. 

Because of the fact that cannas are rather coarse, with their 
large tropical leaves, they do not combine well with most other 
plants and shubs. A more pleasing effect is gained by planting 
them in clumps wherever one wishes to give a definitely tropical 
effect. 

Cannas multiply very rapidly and their roots spread in every 
direction. If planted near perennials or shrubs, they crowd out the 
other plants. 

Some varieties of cannas are perfectly hardy, but many should 
have protection. 

They have been used extensively as quick-growing hedges or 
screens, although the fact that they die down at the first frost 
makes them questionable for this purpose. 

Caladium ("Elephant Ears”) 

Another bulbous plant that has always been associated with the 
canna is the caladium (or "Elephant Ears”). These, like the cannas, 
are semi-hardy, for they only weather the mild Winters. They, 
too, should be taken up after the leaves die down in the Fall, 
planted again in the Spring, with only a light covering of earth 
on top of the crown of the bulb. 

Caladiums are grown for the decorative qualities of their tre¬ 
mendous leaves that so distinctly resemble huge Elephant’s Ears. 
These leaves reach unbelievable proportions, if the bulbs are planted 
in sandy, rather moist, soil. The Lily-like, odd blossom is com¬ 
pletely hidden. They require a great deal of water. 







IRIS 


173 


developed. This has been done with several ideals in view. One 
group of scientists have striven for color, or the combination of 
colors, while another has been occupied with the effort to combine 
size and durability of blossom with beauty of form. Therefore, one 
finds difficulty in making a selection, even from the multitude of 
desirable old ones that have continued to hold their place with the 
newer creations, which are introduced each year, each boasting 
some alluring feature. 

Among the lighter-toned varieties that give the effect of white, 
what could be lovelier than "Fairy” with its pencilings of blue? 
Yet, "San Francisco ,” similar in coloring, is much more beautiful. 
"Purissama ,y is a fine pure white, sharing honors with "Gudrun,” 
which has a creamy tone. 

It would be impossible to give even a partial list of the desirable 
light blue and lavender Iris, but no collection would be complete 
without the old "Princess Beatrice” "Queen Caterina” and "Baller- 
ine” are extremely good. The latter is not a true self (standards 
and falls the same shade) for its falls are a little different from the 
standards. "Santa Barbara” is a wonderful variety which has 
reached a moderate price, while "Sensation” is all its name implies. 
"Juaniata,” a darker blue self, although an old variety, is desirable 
because it blooms rather late. "Missouri,” "Shining Waters,” and 
rr Sierra Blue” demand attention. 

There are a host of pinks which are not pink at all, but quite 
lavender, that are charming under either name. "Georgia” is one of 
the earliest of these to blossom. "Freda Mohr,” "Allure” and "Pink 
Satin” are desirable members of this class. 

The so-called red Iris, if planted in semi-shade, appear more 
vivid. "Dauntless,” extremely vigorous, very adaptable, is tall, vel¬ 
vety, handsome and very attractive. 

ff Ambassador” is a good, late-blooming, moderately-priced 
bronze. "Mrs. Valeri West,” a most gorgeous dark iris, may also be 
classed with the bronzes. This iris was considered by its originator, 
the late Mr. A. J. Bliss, as the culmination of his efforts at iris 


Great 
Range of 
Choice 


The Best 

White 

Varieties 


Light Blue 
and 

Lavender 

Varieties 


Vink 

Varieties 


Red 

Varieties 


Bronze 

Varieties 


174 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Bi-colors 


Yellow 

Varieties 


Blends 


Light 

Blends 


Dark 

Blends 


Suggested 
Types and 
Treatment 


breeding. The marvelous velvety texture of its falls proclaim it a 
descendant of his great creation, ff Dominion ” whose advent in the 
iris world was the forerunner of a new race much more magnificent 
than any that had preceded it. Unfortunately it is very susceptible 
to root-rot. 

The most striking of the whole family are the Bicolors that have 
yellow standards, and reddish or purplish falls. "Arginnis,” "King 
Juba” and "Gay Hussar” are among the best. 

The hybridizers have vied with each other for several years to 
produce a yellow that had all the qualities of the darker-toned iris. 
As a result there are a number from which a selection may be made. 
"She Jonah” (Sturdevant) continues a favorite, although it was the 
first good yellow produced. "Coronation” is large and fine, retain¬ 
ing its color in full sunlight. "Happy Days” ranks among the best. 

While it is a question if the real, great yellow has been developed, 
yet there is no debating the fact that through their endeavors a 
splendid group of blends have appeared, magnificent in their 
strength and beauty. All these have a varying amount of yellow 
that blends with lavender and purple and blue in every conceivable 
manner. This class has been divided into two groups, the light and 
dark blends. 

"Z aharoon” " Mid gar d” and "Nusku” are three typical light 
blends. 

The dark blends with their deep, glowing colors, are particularly 
attractive. There are a number of very beautiful ones, varying in 
price. 

IRIS IN ARID SECTIONS 

It has been claimed that there can be found a variety of iris for 
every climatic condition. So where high winds prevail, it is sug¬ 
gested that the strongest, and those listed as having stems of medium 
height, be selected. The catalogues usually state the length of the 
stem and the quality of both stem and blossom. By using shrubs as 
windbreaks or planting them where they will be protected, better 


IRIS 


171 


fans pointing in different directions in order that the effect will be 
of a large clump when blooming. 

Iris should not be divided until they have become matted and 
crowded. Those varieties that multiply rapidly should be separated 
in two years, while others may remain untouched for several years. 

It is a mistake to think that one cannot have a desirable collec¬ 
tion of Iris without undue expense, for the price is entirely deter¬ 
mined by the abundance of the supply on the market. Some 
varieties multiply very slowly and continue high priced, while the 
new varieties that receive high rating and special awards are very 
expensive for a time. 

Bearded Iris have been subdivided into three classes that follow 
each other as to time of blooming , prolonging the season for many 
months. 

The Iris season opens early in the new year with the Dwarfs that 
can be found in yellow, blue and purple. The Dwarf Iris are so 
called because of shortness of stem (seldom growing more than 
nine inches) rather than size of blossom. The earliest varieties have 
very short stems, but as the season advances, the height increases. 
This class includes Iris pumila, the pseudo-pttmila and chamaeiris y 
all of whom grow from creeping rhizomes. 

These early varieties are followed in March by the well-known 
"Blue, and White Flags” of our Grandmothers* gardens. These 
have been little valued, possibly because they demand so little care, 
though more probably because they bloom so early in the season 
that the prevailing spring winds often mar their delicate beauty. 
This variety is more fragile than some of the later ones, and they 
are easily bruised. Yet nothing can be more beautiful than a large 
clump of the lovely "Blue,” whose name is listed as "germanica” 
growing in well-drained, rich garden soil, especially if jonquils or 
light yellow wall-flowers nestle at their feet. Its companion, the 
"White Flag,” or florentina, has long been identified with the Mo¬ 
hammedans, who have carried it with them wherever they have 
journeyed, to be used for the ornamentation of their burial places. 
This custom has made it impossible to determine its place of origin. 


Dividing 


Iris 

Need Not 
Be Ex¬ 
pensive 


Season 

of 

Bloom 


Dwarf 

Iris 


Flags 


Blue 

germanica 


White 

Florentina 


172 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Inter¬ 

mediates 


Time of 
Bloom 


For many centuries this delicate, white "florentina” has been loved 
for its beauty of blossom and greatly valued for the perfume de¬ 
rived from powdering the dried roots. This, "Orris-root,” has been, 
until quite recently, the best artificial violet scent. 

"Kochi” a native of Italy, a very lovely dark purple, blooms 
about the same time. This Iris has an added value in that it often 
blooms a second time, at the end of the Iris season. "Kochi” is the 
forerunner of a large group of what are known as Intermediates . 
Of these the most popular is "Rose Unique” one of the late Mr. 
Farr’s creations. It is the earliest of the pinks. Until the last few 
years not many Intermediates were introduced because the breeders 
of Iris were directing their attention toward creating Tall-Bearded 
varieties. "Nympth” (a deep yellow), "Zua,” whose exquisite 
fragrance and crinkle-paper-appearance make it most unique, and 
"Zwanenburg” with its unusual, mottled coloring, (very odd- 
looking), are most desirable. 



TALL BEARDED IRIS 

April is the height of the Iris season in the Southwest. A great 
adventure is in store for those gardeners who have yet to learn the 
value of the newer Tall Bearded Iris. 

In the last twenty years a host of varieties, some most brilliant, 
others delicate and exquisite as the beloved Orchid, have been 












IRIS 


177 


contributes several varieties, All native iris in this country and 
abroad are classified as Species. The most brilliant and varicolored 
of the American Species are to be found in the swamps of Louisiana 
and the Southern States. 

There are several varieties indigenous to Texas. Among these 
iris versicolor is said to be quite abundant in East Texas,* Iris 
hexagonal grows near College Station and Iris fulva (native to 
many places in the South) (see page 180), grows in the East Texas 
swamps, also. Native iris exist in several other localities, although 
these have not been identified as to variety. 

When native iris are transplanted into one’s garden, they should 
and must be supplied with the same living conditions to which 
they have been accustomed. The degree of semi-shade or bright 
sunlight, as well as soil and moisture conditions, should all be most 
carefully considered. 

* Foster, Texas. 
fYarnell, Texas. 



Specie 


Those 
Native 
to the 
Southwest 




178 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Regelia and Oncocyclus and Their Hybrids —This group are the most 
drought-resistant of all Iris, but are quite the most erratic and difficult 
to grow in the Atlantic Coast States. They are all natives of the hilly 
regions of Asia Minor, where the winters are cool and the summers are 
hot and dry without any rainfall. They bloom earlier than the Tall- 
Bearded and, like them, are lime-lovers. Possibly the best known variety 
of this group is "Susiana,” distinctive for its peculiar form and color, 
while "Korolkowi” and "Hoogiana,” both natives of Turkestan, are 
also most interesting examples. 

Pogocyclus —A group called Pogocyclus that are the result of crossing 
the Oncocyclus and the Tall-Bearded, may prove to be of special inter¬ 
est to gardeners of the arid sections, for they do not demand the 
dormant period that the Oncocyclus require, yet will endure drier con¬ 
ditions than the Tall-Bearded. A good collection of Pogocyclus include 
"Psyche,” "Shiraz,” "Zwanenburg,” "Nazarin” and "Ib-Pall.” 

Evansia—Another small but distinct class is known as Evansia, whose 
chief characteristic is the ragged crest which replaces the well-known 
"beard” of our familiar varieties. 


Spanish, 
English 
and Dutch 


Bulbous —The Spanish, Dutch and English compose the Bulbous Iris 
group (see page 181). They are very showy and are of value if used 
singly, or in groups as points of accent in the border. The colors of the 
Spanish are white, yellow, brown and blue, while the English include 
the lavender, deep mauve, and violet tones. The Dutch are usually white 
and shades of blue, the most outstanding being "Wedgewood.” This 
must not be confused with the Tall-Bearded of the same name. These 
blossom with the Tall-Bearded and do not prolong the season of bloom 
in the Southwest. The Spanish and Dutch Iris require a dry situation, 
multiply well and are exceedingly desirable; while the English prefer 
partial shade and moist, rich soil—they do not seem to succeed in many 
sections. Bulbous Iris should be planted in the fall, just as one plants 
tulips. If they should dwindle and disappear, they are not too expensive 
to repurchase, for they contribute an indescribable charm. 



IRIS 


175 


results will be secured, for iris will bloom very satisfactorily even 
in partial shade. 

The yellows and delicate blends seem to have the most fragile 
bossoms. The darker-toned have proved most sturdy, wind-resistant 
and adaptable to all conditions. 

"Monsignor” was quite a favorite some years ago, but it has been 
discarded by many for more desirable varieties. It has, however, the Monsignor 
qualifications of being able to thrive under most adverse conditions. 

NATIVE IRIS 

Iris {Vulva )—Found in East Texas. Reddish brown flowers, variegated 
blue or green. 

Iris ( Hexagona )—Violet blue flowers variegated with purple, yellow and 
white. 

Iris ( Pumila )—An exotic. 

BEARDLESS AND BULBOUS IRIS 

A number of interesting types of Iris have been grouped together 
and are known as Beardless Iris. These desire similar treatment Beardless 
which differs greatly from that usually considered best for Bearded 



IftWlVKt X#iS 




176 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Location 


Ocbroleuca 


Stberican 


Iris. They like moisture during the growing season and are sup¬ 
posed to object to lime, although many varieties have been grown 
very successfully in the heavy limestone section. 

Try to select a moist but sunny location, and plant in soil that 
contains a generous amount of well-rotted manure or peat-moss. 
The crowns (or top of root-growth) should be covered with about 
two inches of soil. 

The Beardless Iris are not grown extensively in the Southwest, 
but the tall-growing Ocbroleuca (see page 180) is probably the 
best known. Its long, narrow leaves are quite distinctive, while its 
wealth of white blossoms with a light yellow blotch near the center 
of the petals always suggest a flight of white butterflies. It will not 
tolerate water around its roots after blooming. The one objection to 
it .is that the leaves often die down after the seed-pods have ma¬ 
tured, leaving a large, bare spot (to provide for which, quick¬ 
growing annuals—Cleome, if height is desired, Marigolds, or low- 
growing Petunias—are suggested). 

KAEMPFERI 

The so-called Japanese Iris has not proved de¬ 
pendable as a garden flower where lime prevails. It 
requires special care, and more often proves a dis¬ 
appointment than a pleasure. The blossoms are so 
exquisite that a strain adaptable to all climatic con¬ 
ditions would be most welcome. This desired strain 
will possibly be secured from seedlings scientifically 
developed. If in turn seeds can be secured from these 
seedlings, naturally or by hybridization, a race of 
acclimated plants should be the result. Japanese Iris 
seed will mature if planted in the spring but it is 
much more advisable to plant them in the fall. 

The Siberican group are of special value because 
they will grow in partial shade. 

The iris is native to the North Temperate Zone, the majority 
being found in the far Eastern Asiatic countries, although America 



IRIS 


179 


‘!7 


Ins for Trial 


he Southwest is so large and has so many different climates, soil, 
and moisture conditions that what will succeed in one part will not 
grow in another. There are many places where various species of Iris can 
undoubtedly be well grown, where they have not been attempted. 

'‘Bearded Iris like sunshine, heat, and dryness; and there are many situa¬ 
tions on high, drained land where they succeed well. A long season can be 
had by having Dwarf-Bearded Iris, Intermediate Iris, Germanica types and 
Oncocyclus-hybrid, ending with the Tall Bearded Hybrids. The progress 
that breeders have made in these varieties in the last few years is aston- 
ishing! ill 


"There are many Beardless which are worthy of a trial. Some of these 
will undoubtdly succeed in many parts of the South and West. Others 
may succeed only in a few parts and only under special attention. 

"The Siberica Section is one of the largest and one of the easiest to grow. 
Many of these, undoubtedly, will do well, if given a situation where they 
can have a little extra moisture in the spring months. 



"The best known are the varieties of the species Siberica orientalis and 
their hybrids. Of these 'Emperor,* 'Perry*s Blue,* 'Lactea,* and 'Snow 
Queen* are some of the best known, but there are many new varieties be¬ 
ing introduced from Europe and also from one or more American breeders. 
The best varieties usually combine the height of Siberica with the flower 
of orientalis but the color range is not large, running through the whites, 
blues and purples mainly, although reddish-purples are often seen. 


fThe writer of this article, John C. Wister, is an authority on Iris and other bulbous 
plants. He has written many valuable articles for various publications, and has published 
several books on these subjects. 


in Succession 
of Bloom 


Siberians 

Iris 




180 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Spuria 

Iris 


Wild Iris 
Foliosa Fulvc 


Crested 

Iris 


"An important group which deserves a thorough trial is the Spuria 
group. Some of its species (from which the group receives its name) ought 
to grow in many sections. Others are a little bit finicky as to moisture and 
soil conditions, but are very well worth extra effort. The first of these to 
be considered is Ochroleuca, which, under good conditions, sometimes 
grows five feet high. Smaller than Ochroleuca but a very fine flower of 
clear golden yellow is Aurea (not to be confused with a Bearded Iris of 
the same name). 

i i i 

"A group which certainly needs much closer attention from all gardeners 
is the group that comprises the wild Iris foliosa and fulva as they grow in 
our Southern states. Plants under this name have been in cultivation for 
many years in the North and have been more or less unsatisfactory on 
account of shy bloom. But they seem to be perfectly hardy as far north 
as Boston and sometimes even in Canada. The hybrids fulva and fulvaea 
and violacea as grown by Dykes, and 'Dorothy K. Williavison,’ as grown 
by Williamson, have been better known in gardens than their parent species, 
and do well apparently over greater climatic range. 

"The fulva types, particularly, run from the usual red color to a deeper 
crimson on one side, and yellowish colors on the other. 

"Yet the beautiful species fulva is rather sparse blooming under most 
garden conditions. It is, however, well worthy of a place in any garden, 
no matter how small, because it is so absolutely unique in its color, its 
terra-cotta red being very seldom seen in any out-door flowers. 

"It looks as if we were just beginning to understand what valuable wild 
species we have in this country, and to make use of them for plant breed¬ 
ing. Some of these types undoubtedly grow as far west as Texas, but if 
they are not found wild in certain sections, they should at least be tried 
there in gardens. 

i i i 

"There are many native American Beardless Iris. The California group 
and Iris versicolor would probably prove difficult. 

"Closely related to versicolor is the Iris of Europe— pseudacorus —the 
species from which the 'Fleur de Lys’ has been taken as a patriotic em¬ 
blem. Its color is a splendid clear yellow, and it thrives best under moist 
conditions. 

i i i 

"Distinct from the beardless group, but for convenience treated with 
them, is the small-crested Iris group consisting of one American species, 
cristat a, and two Japanese species, tectorum, and gracilipes. The group 
gets its name from the golden crest down the center line of the lower 


IRIS 


181 


petal. All the plants are small and suited best to half-shady, rock gardens. 
Cristata is but a few inches high, blooming in April or early May—in the 
north—delightfully fragrant and of great value to gardens, and yet but 
seldom seen! Any good (neutral or acid) garden soil with humus in it 
should suit it, and half-shade is welcomed by it; the members of this group 
are the only important Irises which do not demand full sun. 

"Iris tectorum (called 'Japanese Roof-Iris*) is slightly larger, standing 
perhaps a foot in height, and is easily grown from seed. Its white form is 
particularly desirable. It needs replanting oftener than most Irises, and 
when it becomes crowded is apt to die out. I believe it can best be handled 
by saving seed yearly and keeping some young plants coming along. Iris 
gracilipes is the scarcest and perhaps the loveliest of the three, a tiny flower 
held on eight- or ten-inch stems—a gem for any rock garden. 

i i i 


"The Bulbous Iris group is another great group. Its headquarters are 
around the Mediterranean, or in Asia Minor. Most readily available of the 
bulbous types are the varieties of the Spanish Iris group. These are hybrids 
of Iris Xipihium. Try also, Iris Reticulata! 

"The English Irises are later blooming and much more exacting as to 
cultural requirements. They do not seem to succeed in as many sections, 
and are most difficult of all. 

"These are but a few of the many types of Iris which might well be 
tried, for Iris-growing is still in its pioneer stage everywhere in America. 
It is evident that there are no states in the Union where some types will 
not succeed admirably, but many years of careful experimentation is needed 
before we know how many different kinds will succeed in each different 
climatic section of the country.” 


Bulbous 

Iris 


Spanish 

Iris 



Continuous 

Bloom 


Earliest 

in 

Spring 


Yellow 

Jonquil 


Iris 

and 

Narcissus 


Ji (garden of Tdulbs 

J T HAS been quite an interesting experiment to determine 
how nearly a garden of continuous bloom may be secured 
from Bulbs and Tubers, framed and softened by a few congenial 
Annuals and Perennials. 

In other parts of the country the opening of the tiny cups of the 
Snowdrops and Crocus may be relied on to welcome the Spring, 
but the first flowers in the Southwest are usually the colorful Dwarf 
Iris, whose time of blossom can never be fixed, as they appear all 
through the winter after every short period of mild weather. 

The old-fashioned yellow Jonquil ventures almost as early. 
Therefore, these, possibly, take first place in our procession of 
Bulbs. There are a number of types of small bulbs—the Triandrus 
hybrids; the Jonquillas (single and double); the Bulbocodium 
("Hoop petticoats”); the species Tulips (Tulipas) and Crocus— 
tiny, early-flowering varieties, many of interest to the connoisseur 
or collector. 

These Jonquils have long been favorites because of the delicious 
fragrance of their clusters of golden-yellow blossoms on rush-like 
stems, amidst a multitude of fine, narrow leaves. 

By careful selection the Bulb garden may be filled with blossoms 
for many weeks, although in the Southwest few are fortunate 
enough to have prolonged success with all the early spring-flower¬ 
ing Bulbs. Their dainty beauty is so alluring and enticing that one 
cannot resist trying to possess them (often with marked success). 

As the Iris and Narcissus are the dependable Bulbs for the South¬ 
west, it is very fortunate that each has many types, blossoming at 
various times. 

The Iris pageant runs parallel with the Daffodils (see page 145 ), 


182 


A GARDEN OF BULBS 


183 


but extends far beyond their time of bloom. These, in turn, have 
had as their companions the early Hemerocallis (Lemon Lilies) and 
Umbellatum Lilies, Gladioli, and various smaller bulbs. 

The later Spring brings the Madonna Lilies, the Regale, the Tiger, 
and the Speciosum, with the Cannas doing their part during the 
extreme hot weather. The Guernsey (Spider Lily) and Habranthus 
(see page 163), are always a surprise with their interesting bios- Lilies 
soms, the very first weeks of Fall; while the Crinum (some variety 
of which has been in flower constantly since June) help with 
Cannas and Dahlias to make a Bulb garden glorious until the first 
frost. 




looses 


ff HAT a host of lovely images the word Rose recalls! 
bSuch happy associations and charming memories 
should make rose-growing the most delightful of 
occupations. But if it is to be so, in this modern 
multiplicity, we must pick and choose our methods and our bushes 
with as much care and experienced judgment as we usually bestow 
on the selection of our friends, for a Rose can be like a friend with 
whom, if wisely chosen and cultivated, association through the 
years will yield an increasing pleasure. 


Types of Roses— 

Roses are among the most diversified of plants in type. The main 
divisions are Shrubs, Climbers, Polyanthas and Bush or Bedding 
Roses. Each has its particular uses and adaptations. 


Types of 

Shrub 

Roses 


Chief 

Character¬ 

istics 


I. SHRUB ROSES 

The Shrubs are made up largely of Rugosas; Species or wild 
types; old-fashioned kinds like the Moss, Cabbage, Bengal, China 
and Gallica Roses; dwarf and ever-blooming Climbers; Briers and 
the hybrids of all of them. These all make good specimen plants, 
sometimes may be used as hedges, but are not suitable for beds or 
for planting in a small garden. 

RUGOSAS 

The first of the shrub class, the Rugosas, are not adapted for cul¬ 
tivation in all climates. They are ruggedly hardy, thorny plants 
that can stand any amount of cold, but will not bloom well in 
prolonged heat. The flowers are coarse at best, and often wither and 
turn yellow without opening, and the hybrids show a strong 
tendency to mildew. Of these are the red and pink "F. /. Grooten- 
dorst” "Conrad Ferdinand Meyer” "Rtigosa Rubra,” "Rosea Par - 
fum de I’Hay” and "Amelie Gravereaux” the latter two having 
the unpleasant characteristic common to the class, of turning from 
red to a sickly purple. 


184 


ROSES 


185 


SPECIES 


The Species, or wild types, furnish some of the loveliest of the 
Spring-blooming shrubs. Hugonis, the wild rose of China, with its 
sweetly-scented, golden-yellow flowers in April, is a great favorite, Ty p es 0 j 
by far the most beautiful of the Spring-flowering shrubs—needing Species 
plenty of room—at least six feet square. Moyesi, very similar except 
in color, is a blood-red gem, if it can become safely established. The 
Cherokee Roses (or Rosa laevigata) have been naturalized in South 
Texas and make bewilderingly beautiful, fountain-like shrubs, with 
white, pink or red blossoms. But their large size and dreaded pro¬ 
pensity to "sucker” make them rather difficult to handle in an 
average garden. They are better left to naturalistic treatment on a 
large scale, where their effect is tremendous. 



OLD FASHIONED TYPES 

Except for sentimental reasons, very few of the old-fashioned 
types (such as the Moss, Gallica and Cabbage Roses) seem to be 
generally grown, the only one often mentioned being Blanche 
Moreau , an old white Moss. But almost every garden has a plant or 
two of that fragrant, dark crimson Bengal, Gruss an Teplitz. 

One of the China Roses still grown is Hermosa, with its lavender- 
pink clusters of small flowers on a bushy ever-blooming plant. But 
with the many Polyanthas so similar, having much more attractive 
coloring, it will not likely survive another generation, except in 
educational collections. 


DWARF OR SEMI-CLIMBERS 

The dwarf or semi-climbing Roses which make good shrubs are Three 
mainly of three classes: the Lambertina Roses or multi flora hybrids; 


186 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Lambertina 


Pemberton 


Captain 

Thomas’ 

Varieties 


the Pemberton Roses, moschata or musk hybrids, and Captain 
Thomas' Roses. 

The Lambertina Roses have not been reported upon, but are 
suggested as possibly good subjects for trial. 

The Pemberton Roses, or hybrid musks, have been grown with 
very good results. The varieties tried are Penelope, soft saffron; 
Prosperity, white; Cornelia, strawberry; and Vanity, rose-colored. 
They seem immune to mildew and leaf diseases, are practically 
ever-blooming, and certainly deserve a much wider distribution. 

Captain Thomas’ ever-blooming dwarf climbers may be recog¬ 
nized by the prefix, Bloomfield, to their names. They have caused 
considerable interest, not only from the viewpoint of possibly de¬ 
sirable shrubs, but as good subjects for pillar treatment, to replace 
the rambler group which has caused more trouble in the garden by 
spreading mildew than any other one class. Captain Thomas’ Roses 
are all heartily recommended for trial, as they seem immune to 
mildew and leaf diseases, and, when established, bloom more than 
once. Two are sufficiently vigorous to handle as ramblers. Bloom¬ 
field Perfection, creamy flesh, and Bloomfield Courage, dark red. 


Briers 
in the 
Southwest 


Austrian 

Copper 


BRIERS 

The Brier Roses, most of which bloom but once, have at least 
one native representative in the Southwest, a low, very thorny 
bush with small, golden yellow blossoms. The flower resembles 
somewhat that of Hugonis, but the latter makes a much larger and 
.infinitely more attractive plant, which comment applies to prac¬ 
tically all of the Brier group except the Austrian, which has fur¬ 
nished Austrian Copper, Le Reve, Star of Persia, and the old "Per¬ 
sian Yellow ”—all of Rosa foetid a family. 

Austrian Copper, one of the most outstanding shrubs offered in 
commerce today, has small single flowers, coppery-red on the inside 
and bright yellow on the outside. The foliage is very beautiful, but 
the startling color of the blossoms makes the plant a little difficult 
to place in a garden except with an evergreen background. 

Le Reve and Star of Persia are usually listed as Hardy Climbers, 


ROSES 


187 


but are really tall, stiff shrubs, needing some support. They are 
immune to mildew, but are a prey to the most devastating black- 
spot and possess a distinctly disagreeable odor. To offset these dis¬ 
advantages, the beauty of their large, pure yellow blossoms is most 
compelling to those who are addicted to yellow Roses. 

Harrison*s Yellow, another member of this class, whose name 
appears so often in Northern annals, is practically unknown in the 
Southwest. 

The great majority of us, when we say "Roses,” do not think of 
them as shrubs, but a vast number of Rose plants can be used as 
shrubs in our gardens whether they are Rose gardens or not. A 
few points to bear in mind concerning Rose shrubs are: first, learn 
the probable height and habit of growth of each in order to place 
it to advantage; second, it is better not to prune at all than too 
much. Be content with cutting out dead or very old wood at the 
base of the plant; third, plant them in good soil, but do not pile 
fertilizer around them. They usually prefer a little bonemeal and 
an occasional dressing of wood-ashes to anything else in the way 
of nourishment. 

II. CLIMBING ROSES 

The correct classification of climbing Roses is one of the most 
difficult things the amateur Rose-grower encounters. Only by clas¬ 
sifying them properly can he learn to care for them, because each 
class demands a different treatment for best results. There are 
four main types of so-called climbing Roses— Climbers, Ramblers, 
Pillars and Ground-covers. 

CLIMBERS 

The Climbers are the Roses which grow taller each year, new 
shoots springing from the ends of the old canes. They should be 
pruned very little, as they bloom best on mature wood. All that is 
necessary is to cut out dead, diseased or very old wood, and shorten 
branches which are too long for the space allotted to them. True 
Climbers should be grown on a tall fence, a pergola, over an arch¬ 
way or against the wall of a house, any place where there is suffi- 


Pruning 


Planting 


Fertilization 


Climbing 
Rose Types 


Character¬ 
istics of 
Climbers 


188 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


cient height and width for them to spread out. They should never 
be planted as a pillar, since the canes are too long, too abundant* 
and usually too stiff and heavy to twist or twine. 

The Climbers are themselves subdivided into Hardy and Tender 
Climbers. 

Hardy 

The Hardy Climbers are those which are able to endure zero 
weather without protection. They generally bloom only in the 
Spring, but for a long period. The profusion of their flowers, to¬ 
gether with their hardiness, make them very desirable. 

Looking at its immaculate white or pale yellow loveliness, its 
Chief originator gave one of the most charming names in the Rose world 

Hardy to Mermaid. The flowers are borne in clusters at the tips of long 

branches, on a half-climbing, shrub-like plant with beautiful, 
Waxy foliage, immune to disease. It should never be pruned , but 
allowed to grow in a sunny, sheltered spot where it will produce its 
exquisite, fleeting blossoms continuously from early Spring till Fall. 

Some of the most widely-grown Hardy Climbers are American 
Pillar, Gardenia, Emily Gray, Silver Moon, Mme. Gregoire Staeche- 
lin, the pink Gold Medal Rose, and New Datim, identical in flower 
with the old Dr. Van Fleet and is said to be ever-blooming. 




ROSES 


189 


T ender 

The Tender Climbers compose a large class which will not 
endure zero weather without protection and are best left for 
Southern planting. They are made up of Noisettes, Teas, some 
Australian types, Bourbons and such types peculiar to Southern 
climates. Most of the Hybrid-Teas and Polyanthas which have 
developed climbing tendencies belong to this group also, although 
some are not of sufficient vigor to climb very high and should be 
treated as pillars or large shrubs. 

Until the disastrous winter of 1929-1930 with its subzero tem¬ 
perature, many of the Tender Climbers grown in California and 
the true South, such as the Gold of Ophir, William Allen Richard¬ 
son, Bouquet d’Or, the Banksia Roses, white and yellow, M arechal 
Neil , and even the newer Belle of Portugal were thriving in gar¬ 
dens throughout the Southwest. But that winter took its toll, and 
it has been noted with sadness since that many of these Roses have 
disappeared from the lists of local growers. 

Hybrid-Tea and Polyantha Climbers are relatively hardier than 
the strictly Tender Climbers, since they are seldom killed outright 
by extreme cold. But if their canes are badly nipped back, a whole 
season or two of bloom is lost, according to the severity of the cold, 
since they flower on mature wood. 

There is another disadvantage to the climbing forms of the 
ranker-growing Hybrid-Teas. In the northern part of the South¬ 
west, Spring is almost always a false season. Warm days come early 
and the Tender Climbers put out confidently. Climbing forms are 
usually several weeks ahead of the bushes of the same variety, and 
often a sudden freeze, or a killing frost, destroys the blossoms. 
Only once in about five years does a strong-growing Climbing Tea 
or Hybrid-Tea reach perfection. That one time ought to be con¬ 
sidered worth waiting for, as the vision of a climbing Columbia, 
thirty feet in extent, with several hundred perfect Roses all open 
! at one time, will surely testify. 

There is another class of Climbing Hybrid-Teas that has no 
dwarf, bush-form; examples of which are Souvenir de Wooten and 




Tender 

Climbers 

Identified 


Polyantha 

Climbers 


Hybrid- 

Tea 




190 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Rene Marie Henriette. The latter, except in the most favorable sea¬ 
son, discolors, mildews and balls in most sections, but is still planted 
because it often gives scattering bloom in the Fall. 


Ramblers 

Classified 


Suggested 

Locations 


Treatment 
of Pillar 
Roses 


Pruning 


RAMBLERS 

Ramblers are those Climbers characterized by long, pliant canes, 
renewing themselves from the ground each year, and covered with 
sprays or clusters of small flowers. They are the worst snare await¬ 
ing the amateur Rose-grower. They are deceptively beautiful and 
healthy-looking at times, yet rarely prove immune to mildew. 
Dorothy Verkins , White Dorothy , Excelsa , Coronation , Hiawatha , 
La Fiamma and the countless other Ramblers are the only types of 
Climbers which can be used to really good advantage twined 
around a post or in festoons along a rope. 

If you must have Ramblers, the best way to handle them is to 
plant them in the open full sunlight where they will have free 
circulation of air. Cut out at the ground all the previous season’s 
growth each year, immediately after they have finished blooming. 
Spray as often as you have the strength, with any good fungicide 
or sulphur mixture. The results are apt to be the same, no matter 
what you do. In a dry season there will be very little mildew and 
in a wet one, plenty. 

PILLAR ROSES 

The Pillar Roses are those which, not being of such tall, strong 
growth as the true Climbers, may be trained on a high post, or like 
a fan on a fence or trellis. This latter treatment is the more desira¬ 
ble as the canes are usually, when mature, too stiff to bend without 
breaking. This pillar group embraces the most desirable of all the 
climbing Roses since as a class they are healthier than the Ramblers 
and more easily handled than the tall Climbers. The only pruning 
they require is to take out all wood more than three years old, and 
cut back the blooming lateral stems to within two eyes, or leaf 
buds, of the main canes, immediately after blooming. 

The Pillars may be divided into the Hardy sorts, and the ever- 
blooming or half-tender varieties. 





ROSES 


191 


Of the Hardy Pillars, Pauls Scarlet taps the list as the most out¬ 
standingly beautiful and generally satisfactory climbing Rose in 
existence. Its color is vivid and unfading, its fragrance delicious, 
and its length of flowering, and multitude of blossoms most gen¬ 
erous. Beginning in early April it often continues through the first 
week of June, its huge lasting clusters of shining red coming in a 
long succession of unbroken bloom. 

Next to Pauls Scarlet perhaps the loveliest of the Hardy Pillars 
is Jacotte , with orange-pink, semi-double profuse flowers and holly¬ 
like foliage. It should always be planted against a fence or trellis 
where its strong horizontal, lateral canes will not interfere with 
passage, and should never be placed at a gateway or on a post, as 
its canes will usually break if you attempt to. bend them too soon. 

Primrose is a lovely pillar Rose which likes a sunny location 
where it will grow to some fifteen feet and bear, over a long season, 
large clusters of pure yellow, very double flowers. 

Tausendschon (or Thousand Beauties) and its darker twin, 
Koserie y are billowy masses of dainty blossoms and M ary Wallace 
is a pink dream. Climbing American Beauty fades so badly that it 
cannot be enthusiastically recommended, but it is a lovely thing for 
a few days. 

All the Hardy Pillars bloom abundantly, although only once, 
except Mary Wallace which sometimes has a few scattered blossoms 
in the fall. Perhaps no question is more often asked than, "Do you 
know any good everblooming climbing Roses?” While not quite 
everblooming, there is a class of Half-Tender Pillar Roses which 
bloom more than once. Many of them come from Australia. 

Then there is the long list of the less rank-growing Hybrid-Tea 
Climbers which do well spread out fanwise against a fence or 
trellis. They develop blooming branches from those "eyes” or 
"buds” exposed to the sun, and should have their canes trained as 
nearly horizontal as possible. The only pruning they require is to 
cut off flower stems and any diseased or very old wood. Some of 
the best are Climbing Herriot , Mrs. Aaron Ward , Souvenir de 
Claudius Denoyel, Lady Ashtown (the hardiest and best pink), 


Hardy 

Pillars 


Almost 

Everbloom¬ 

ing 

Climbers 


Australian 

Climbers 


Espalier 


Pruning 


192 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Rose Marie, Los Angeles, Hoosier Beauty, Killarney, Irish Fire flame, 
Clara Bow, Kaiserin Auguse Viktoria, Gen . McArthur and Hadley, 
and two Climbing Teas, Lady Hillingdon and Papa Gontier. 

To this group may be added also the climbing forms of two 
Polyanthas, Auguste Kordes, or Climbing Lafayette, and Climbing 
Cecile Brunner. They are mildew proof, a most singular advantage 
in a climbing Rose. Cecile Brunner is densely clothed with almost 
evergreen foliage and makes a good-looking vine. Auguste Kordes 
is most highly recommended for training on a pillar and for fes¬ 
toons. Its early bloom is abundant and after being established, it 
repeats in the fall. Its only fault is a none-too-fast color, the bright 
cherry red turning to a pink. 




ROSES 


193 


GROUND COVERS 

Ground covers are those Roses which are suited to trail along the 
ground or over embankments. They are very artistic and attractive 
looking in a naturalistic garden. Jacotte, while classed as a Pillar 
Rose, may be used. But the type is most often represented by the 
Wichuraiana group. These have practically evergreen, shining 
foliage. 

* 8 ? * 8 ? * 8 ? 

Some points to remember about Climbing Roses, taken as a 
whole, are: 

Prune, immediately after they bloom in the Spring, and fertilize 
heavily to induce strong, new growth from which will come next 
year’s blossoms. 

Learn the color, season of bloom, probable size and habit of 
growth of the plant, before planting, so as to locate properly. 
Climbers do not take kindly to being carted about. Be more than 
generous in the width and depth of the hole and the amount of 
fertilizer used when planting, remembering you will seldom be 
given a second chance to correct any initial deficiency. 

Of the Tender Climbers, choose the yellow Banksia, the pink 
Z ephrine Drouhin and perhaps M arechal Neil. 

Of the Hardy Climbers, the New Dawn, Albertine, Silver Moon, 
Bess Lovett, Mme. Gregoire Staechlin, Emily Gray and Mermaid 
are not likely to disappoint you. 

Of the Ramblers, don’t indulge! But try the Pillar Roses Bloom¬ 
field Courage and Bloomfield Perfection, Auguste Kordes and the 
Hybrid Musk, Vanity. 

Among the Climbing Teas and Hybrid Teas, buy all you can 
afford or accommodate, but remember the added care and atten¬ 
tion they demand. 

Of the Hardy Pillars, never rest until you acquire a Pauls Scarlet 
or two, a Roserie or a Thousand Beauties, a Mary Wallace, a Prim¬ 
rose, and several of the Bracteata. 


Ground 

Covers 


Prune 

Character¬ 

istics 

Planting 

Selection 


194 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Habits and 
Pruning of 
Polyanthus 


Suggested 

Uses 

Hedges 


Borders 


Miniature 

Double 

Roses 


III. POLYANTHA AND FLORIBUNDA 

Polyanthas are hardy, everblooming, shrubby, little plants, flow¬ 
ering in immense clusters and suitable for massing in beds, low 
hedges, or borders. They are the Roses for the gardener who wants 
to spend the minimum of time and energy on his bushes and reap 
the maximum results. When once established they increase in 
strength and beauty from year to year but always retain their 
original neat habit of growth. They require little pruning except 
to remove very old, dead or diseased wood; and, if wisely chosen, 
planted in the sun, and not exposed to unhealthy plant neighbors, 
they will require neither dusting nor spraying to any extent. All 
they will require is to have the old blooms cut off, and a little feed¬ 
ing now and them to keep them energetic. 

The Polyanthas vary considerably in height, size, and type of 
flower, and coloring so that it is a good plan to see a plant before 
ordering in large numbers for any special purpose. They should be 
used as hedges, massed in beds, or in front of evergreens, and as a 
border for taller-growing shrubs. 

For beds or edging, or for a gay border anywhere, there are 
Polyanthas which should be in every garden. They are practically 
immune to mildew, are indescribably beautiful in coloring, and 
create a stunning effect if planted in large masses in beds of one 
variety. In fact, no rose garden, formal or otherwise, can afford to 
be without them. 

There is another type of Polyanthas which has been grown very 
widely, represented by the Cecile Brunner or Sweetheart Rose. The 
flowers, which come both singly and in clusters, are really minia¬ 
ture double Roses, very attractive when cut in the bud for bou¬ 
quets. But the plants for garden decoration are valueless, as the 
blossoms open too rapidly with their petals flared back in an ugly 
way. 

Another favorite, Grass an Aachen, which is said to be really a 
Bengal Bourbon and not a Polyantha, has rather large flowers for 
the class, of an exquisite color when conditions are favorable. 



ROSES 


195 


The Floribunda are intermediary between the low Polyanthas 
and the tall Hybrid Teas, having been bred for mass-plantings or 
decorative use. 

The plants are sturdy, hardy, very bushy and of medium height. 
The blossoms composing the cluster flower-heads are larger than 
Polyanthas—some single, some double-petalled—and have the same 
habit of continuous bloom, retaining their color and shape even in 
hot summer sun. 

Some are classed as Hybrid Polyanthas; some listed under the 
Hybrid Teas. 

They are particularly adapted to landscape use. 

IV. BUSH OR BEDDING ROSES 

The Bush or Bedding type is the one we usually associate with 
the word "Rose.” This class may be divided into Hybrid Perpetual, 
Tea, Hybrid Tea, Pernetiana, and Single Roses. 

HYBRID PERPETUALS 

Hybrid Perpetuals are the strong, tall-growing, winter-hardy, 
generally once-blooming-only Roses of our grandmothers* gardens. 
They are one of the oldest types of bush Roses, originating in 
France where they are still very popular and have a wider range in 
variety than in the United States. Germany, too, is fond of them, 
and great advances are being made both abroad and here at home 
in their hybridization. 

Some of the favorite Hybrid Perpetuals are Paul Neyron, Gen¬ 
eral Jacqueminot , Ulrich Brunner, George Amends , Frau Karl 
Druschki , and the fast disappearing American Beauty , John Rus¬ 
sell (a fine red of perfect form), and Mme. Albert Bar bier (light 
salmon-flesh and apricot). 

Since the Hybrid Perpetuals, however hardy and beautiful, 
bloom only .in the Spring, a very few of their kind should be 
included in a small Rose garden. Hybrid Perpetuals grow tall 
unless they are kept sharply pruned. 

In pruning them, all wood more than two years old should be 
taken out at the base of the plant and the remaining canes short- 


Classes 


Hybrid 
Perpetuals 
Bush Roses 


Pruning 


196 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Suggested 

Uses 


Attention 
Called to 
Single 
Roses 


Tea Roses 
Identified 


ened according to the results you want to achieve. The taller they 
are left, the more flowers, and the shorter they are cut, the finer the 
blooms on longer stems. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals make fine tall Pillars or shrubs, especially 
Frau Karl Druschki, which should be in every garden, as it fur¬ 
nishes all the white Roses anyone could wish. 



SINGLE ROSES 

The single Roses are a decorative group which are being given 
an increasing amount of attention by the amateur grower. They 
usually have only five petals and their color is apt to fade rapidly. 
But cut as buds for the house, they possess an artistic grace that 
will charm the most unenthusiastic observer. 

The Single Roses come in a variety of colors. There is the pink 
Dainty Bess, and the white Innocence . But the finest of all is 
Isobel. Give it plenty of room and it will reward you with a multi¬ 
tude of long, carmine-orange buds which fade with age to a 
pretty pink. 

TEAS 

The Teas are an old race of bushy, everblooming Roses, mostly 
in yellow tones, with disease-resistant foliage which is little 
troubled by mildew or black-spot. They are not winter-hardy in 
the North, but are seldom killed by the cold weather in most 


ROSES 


197 


sections of the South and West. Their chief faults are a restricted 
range of color, and an inclination to "ball”, a term which, when 
applied to Roses (mostly the soft, heavy ones) means that they 
do not open properly. This is due generally to weather conditions, 
but is one of the most exasperating traits that a Rose may possess, 
for no one likes to have a whole crop of blooms "go bad”, and 
most of the Teas bloom in crops. 

One Tea which never balls is Lady Hillington. It is widely 
planted and ranks as the most popular yellow rose. An often 
weak "neck” (a characteristic of the Teas) and a tendency to 
fade badly in the heat, constitute its major faults, but it is one of 
three Teas that should be in all Rose gardens. 

They are generally of but average height. They require only 
light pruning, as their chief value to a garden lies more in the 
number than in the size of their blossoms. They improve wonder¬ 
fully when given frequent cultivation and heavy feeding. 

The Teas are almost as little adapted to the Southwest as the 
Rugosas and should be left as largely to the true South as the 
Rugosas to the true North. Their strong tea-fragrance and lovely 
foliage cannot make up for the fact that only a few of their 
multitudinous flowers are worth gathering, except in those seasons 
most favorable to their proper development. 

HYBRID TEAS 

The Hybrid-Tea originated as a cross between a Hybrid-Per¬ 
petual and a Tea. It inherited most of the hardiness of the former 
and the everblooming tendency of the latter. Though Hybrid-Teas 
are of comparatively recent origin, La France being the oldest one 
in existence, their popularity is so widespread that they have dis¬ 
placed most of their original progenitors in the modern Rose- 
garden. 

The work of hybridization continues unabated, such crossing 
and recrossing having been accomplished that it is small wonder 
that in the resultant race there is apparent a decline in hardiness. 

No one Rose can be perfect from every point of view, but the 


Suggested 

Varieties 


Height 

Pruning 


Chief 

Character¬ 

istics 


Origin 


198 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


following Hybrid-Teas have each their good points which make 
^Collections t ^ iem desirable in any Rose collection. Heading the list of Hybrid- 
Teas is the Radiance group, the greatest of these is Red Radiance! 
They are considered the backbone of any successful Rosegarden. 

Perhaps next to Red Radiance there is no red Rose that blooms 
more abundantly than the Charles K. Douglas. It seems more 
adaptable than the lovely Etoile de Hollande which every Rose- 
lover must have. The best of all, E. G , Hill, gives that opulent 
richness to our gardens that only red Roses can bestow. 

The pink Hybrid-Tea Roses fall easily into kinds that are good 
for Spring bloom, like Mrs. Henry Bowles and Mrs. Henry Morse; 
those that are good for Summer bloom, like President Taft and 
Mary Countess of Ilchester; those that are good for all-season 
bloom, like Pink Radiance and Betty Uprichard; and those that 
are good for nothing. 

The yellow Hybrid-Teas are well represented by such splendid 
Yellow acquisitions as Mrs. Pierre S. DuPont and the Australian Golden 
Dawn. But yellow in Roses seems to belong more exclusively to 
another race, the Pernetianas. 

In the white Hybrid-Teas the old Kaiserina Augusta Victoria 
White an d 'White Killarny are still planted. White Roses hold less interest 

for the average Rose-lover than the gayer-colored varieties. 

Climatic Characteristics 

The Southwest is the half-way meeting ground for the East and 
the far West in more ways than one. It is influenced by both 
and yet totally unlike either. It has the long growing-season and 
tropical summer of California, but its winters can remind one 
more often of New England. This makes all rules of either section 
not safe to apply here culturally. But, the Southwest has a greater 
leaning toward California than it has toward Pennsylvania, when 
it comes to a matter of plant-growth, Rose-plants more closely 
resembling those of California in size than those of the North. 




ROSES 


199 


Pruning Hybrid-Teas 

When we consider this, it must have its direct bearing on the 
pruning of Hybrid-Teas. Nature demands a balance. This greater 
top-growth has its correspondingly greater root-growth and by 
unduly limiting the former we necessarily in time will limit the 
latter. 

When you are told that you can prune, either to have a fine 
bush or fine flowers, you have heard only half of it. The end of 
that sentence is—if you don’t have a fine bush you won’t have 
any flowers very long! The extremely-low pruning theory comes 
to us from the florists who prune their bushes sharply and feed 
heavily to produce fine blooms. But they usually neglect to say 
what they do with those bushes at the end of one year, two years, 
or at the most, three years. They throw them out! This whole proc¬ 
ess is known as "forcing” and the result is an exhausted bush 
at the age when it should be at the height of its glory. 

When pruning Hybrid-Teas, first of all, be sure the pruning 
shears are sharp. A great deal of harm can be done by hacking 
a Rose with dull shears. The next step is to walk around the bush 
and take a good look at it before deciding what particular type 
its cut should be. A rule of "proportion” in pruning all but newly 
set-out bushes (which latter should be cut back to within six inches 
of the ground) is on well-established plants cut one-half. That is, 
cut back one-half the new strong growth of a bush Rose. All the 
old, diseased or weak wood should be cut away entirely. Try to 
create a well-balanced and symmetrical appearance. 

Pernetianas 

The Pernetianas are the newest of the bush creations. And they 
demand to be treated like the spoiled youngster of any large 
family. 

Monsieur Pernet might be considered in the light of a modern 
Pandora, for when he crossed the Austrian Brier with a Hybrid- 
Perpetual and produced the Pernetiana race, he loosed upon the 


Pruning 


Beware of 
,t forcing f> 


Adapt 
Contour to 
Root System 


Proportion 


Pernet 

Varieties 


200 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Chief 

Character¬ 

istics 


Suggested 

Collection 


Pruning 


Rose world a host of hitherto unimagined evils. Black-spot, canker, 
die-back and defoliation all appear as if by magic to confound 
the Rose-grower. 

But, if unknown evils accompanied the advent of the Perneti- 
anas, it was marked by a great glory as well, for they possessed a 
beauty of color and a grace of form undreamed of, until then. 
The Austrian Brier strain infuses all of them with that dark 
golden or bright Primrose glow that makes them stand out in any 
garden like shining beacons. 

There is a movement on foot among the commercial growers 
to combine the Hybrid-Teas and Pernetianas under the head of 
Hybrid-Tea. They claim that they have been so cross-bred with 
the Hybrid-Tea that only an arbitrary decision could say to which 
class they belonged. But let the growers by all means make such 
an arbitrary decision, for it ought not to be hard to say, if the 
foliage is faulty, "This is surely a Pernetiana”. And it gives the 
amateur something to go by, for he knows then that it will demand 
special consideration. 



Some of the Pernetianas are: Talisman, President Hoover, Angele 
Pemet, Ville de Paris, Feu Joseph Looymans, Mrs. E . P. Thom and 
that lovely witch, Los Angeles; Cuba, Padre, Gnventha Jones, 
Margaret McGredy, Willomere and Georges Pernet. 

To sum up Pernetianas, the best way to treat them is to prune 
them slightly and plant them in beds to themselves where they can 
indulge in their idiosyncrasies, and give them the special treat¬ 
ment their beauty deserves without endangering the health of other 
Roses. 

If you would escape their enchantment, never look at one, for 


ROSES 


201 


once beholding their fleeting beauty, you are lost! They weave 
a spell that will rob you of all reason, for knowing they may 
wreck your whole garden, you will yet plant them and in time 
realize that your feeling for them is the same as the Greeks for 
Alcibiades—you 

"Love and hate , 

And cannot do without” them. 


PLANTING ROSES 

November, after the first light freeze, is planting time for Roses in the 
Southwest. At this season the ground is relatively warmer than the air, 
which induces root-growth. If transplanting is postponed until February, 
one will discover, upon taking up the plants, a newly developed system 
of small, white roots which will be largely sacrificed when disturbed at 
this later time. 

There are, however, two real exemptions from this Fall plainting rule— 
pot-grown Roses and California-grown Roses. The former, being thor¬ 
oughly active, if subjected to a sudden freeze will seldom survive. The 
latter, under the same conditions, not being acclimated, will receive a 
shock which often proves fatal. Spring is the best time to plant these two 
sorts in this section. 

Rose beds may be any shape desired, but to arrive at a pleasing effect, 
they should have some definite plan. Not more than two rows of bushes 
to a bed is advisable to make cultivation and cutting easy. Avoid step¬ 
ping in the bed, as it packs the ground, and injures the roots underneath. 
Average Rose-beds should be from three to four feet wide, with from two 
to three-foot paths in between. The distance apart of the bushes is deter¬ 
mined by the size and habit of growth of the varieties chosen. Radiance 
bushes should be planted at least two feet apart in one direction and 
eighteen inches in the other; other bushes from sixteen to eighteen inches, 
depending upon their type of growth. 

Preparation of Beds 

If possible prepare beds some time before ready to plant. Dig the ground 
to a depth of at least two feet and then thoroughly break up the "hard 
pan,” if it has been reached. Only the top foot of soil taken out will be 
very fertile, and this should be mixed with an equal quantity of well- 
rotted manure or leaf-mold. 

If the bushes have not been pruned, cut out all but the three strongest 
canes and cut these back to within three "eyes” or leaf-buds from the 
ground. Trim off all broken ends of roots; and then carry the bushes to 
the place of planting in a pail of water, exposing them (and especially the 
roots) as little as possible to the sun and wind. 


Time for 
Planting 


Exceptions 


Shape and 
Size of 
Beds 


Depth 
of Bed 


Preparation 
of Bushes 
for 

Planting 


202 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Trenching 

System 


How to 
Place a 
Bush 


Soil 

Preparation 


Water 


Top Cover 


Avoid Over- 
Stimulation 

Essential 

Pood 

Demands 


If making an entire new bed, plant a row at a time by the trenching 
system. Dig a long trench down one side of the bed to the proper depth, 
piling the earth taken out on the other side of the bed. (See page 14.) 

Place the bushes the proper distance apart in this trench with their roots 
spread out, mounding the earth to the center to fit the rounded contour 
of the Rose’s root-system, leaving the bush naturally placed, and not in 
a depressed condition. Set the plants so that the "bud” (or point of union 
of the plant and the understock) will be just beneath the surface of the 
ground. Draw the soil that was put aside around each bush in turn, taking 
care to keep the roots in a natural position, and pointing down. 

In the first layer, incorporate five cups of bonemeal for each bush, being 
careful to thoroughly mix it with the soil; and, if soil is black and heavy, 
about one-third sand would be a good addition. Don’t attempt to make 
your earth too light—heavy soil helps to anchor the Rose against the 
strong winds prevalent in the Southwest. 

When the entire bed has been filled within two inches of the top, firm 
the ground well, and then water until thoroughly saturated. Any air 
pockets left are easily detected, and may be filled with sand. When no 
holes appear, fill in the remaining two inches with loose soil. On top scatter 
some well-rotted manure, which will supply humus and retain moisture 
for the soil, and also act as the only Winter protection usually needed for 
Roses in this section. 

FERTILIZATION 

There is a difference between feeding a plant and stimulating it. Too 
much stimulation, through the application of chemicals, may result in a 
"nervous wreck” of a plant. But it is a safe guess that more Roses die of 
starvation than of indigestion induced by too much feeding. 

A well-balanced diet has been called an essential to Rose health. 

Well-rotted manure will release the necesasry nitrogen and provide the 
necessary humus. Leaf mold in large quantities will work wonders. Two 
cupsful of super-phosphate to each plant—November, February, and July 
—will insure its phosphorus and potash. A light layer of hardwood ashes 
also furnishes a reasonable amount of potash. Tobacco stems fertilize and 
disinfect to a degree. 

Since roses prefer soil that is nearly neutral, where lime predominates 
an application of epsom salts usually once or twice a year will help correct 
the condition. 

Roses also prefer their roots shaded, therefore light, shallow-rooting, 
ground-cover plants are suggested (Phlox, Petunias, California Poppies, 
etc., kept from becoming rank in growth) often will protect from weather 
inclemencies. 

If rose leaves turn yellow, it may be chlorosin. To correct this, work 
humus (well rotted manure) into the soil and sulphur , zinc-sulphate, or 
iron-sulphate. Cottonseed hulls, or one part cottonseed meal, to two parts 


ROSES 


203 


bonemeal, as a fertilizer may be needed. Plain sulphur scratched into the 
soil, or a teaspoonful of iron-sulphate once a month is particularly relished 
by the yellow roses. (See page 136.) 

Stimulation after the last of August is unwise, since it will cause a late, 
tender growth, endangering the life of the plant if caught in an early 
freeze. 

HOW TO RECOGNIZE A GOOD BUSH 

A good bush for an amateur to buy is a “two-year-old” plant, with a 
well-developed root-system showing no disease, and having three or four 
strong canes showing no signs of having been dried out. 

If quick results and abundant bloom are desired, choose a well-budded 
plant; but if longevity is preferred, stick to the own-root kind (if you 
can find a good nursery that deals in them any more, for from a com¬ 
mercial point of view there is no question about the greater desirability of 
the buded.) 

Strong-growing types—such as Shrubs, Climbers, Polyanthas, Radiances, 
and the like—will prosper very well on their own roots. Some new. varieties 
have been too inbred to make roots for themselves rapidly enough or suf¬ 
ficiently sturdy to support the plant against wind and weather. 

List of Roses in Garden Sketch 

The list of Rose varieties contained in the accompanying garden sketch 
is by no means to be considered as including all the varieties that should, 
or might, be grown in the Southwest. It is designed for the sole purpose 
of offering some slight help to the amateur who, in the maze of vast and 
varied material the modern Rose world presents, may feel lost without a 
chart of some tried and true Rose friends he may count on to see him 
safely through. 



204 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Climbers 

Hardy Climbers 


4 

Auguste Kordes or 
Climbing Lafayette 

Red 

2 

Pauls Scarlet 

Red 

2 

Bloomfield Courage 

Red 

2 

Roserie 

Rose 

2 

Primrose 

Yellow 

2 

Emily Gray 

Yellow 

2 

Mary Wallace 

Pink 

2 

Mme. Gregoire 
Staechelin 

Pink 

2 

Silver Moon 

White 

2 

New Dawn or Ever- 
Blooming Dr. Van Fleet 

Flesh 

2 

Yellow Banksia 

Yellow 

1 

AJbertine 

Orange 

2 

Jacottte 

Orange 

1 

Chaplin’s Pink 

Pink 

1 

Zephrine Drouhin 

Pink 

1 

Bess Lovett 

Red 


Climbing Hybrid 

Teas 

1 

Columbia 

Pink 

1 

Mrs. Aaron Ward 

Yellow 

1 

Rose Marie 

Pink 

1 

Lady Ashtown 

Pink 

1 

Edourd Herriot 

Pink 

1 

Black Boy 

Red 

1 

Miss Marion Manifold 

Red 

1 

Hoosier Beauty 

Red 


Shrub Roses 

2 

Mermaid 

Yellow 

2 

Moyesi 

Red 

2 

Hugonis 

Yellow 

1 

Cornelia 

Strawberry 

1 

Penelope 

Cream 

1 

Vanity 

Rose 

1 

Bloomfield Perfection 

Apricot 

1 

Prosperity 

White 

1 

Frau Karl Druschki 

White 


Single and Semi-Double 

6 

Hawlmark Crimson 

Red 

6 

Red Letter Day 

Red 

6 

Isobel 

Flame 

6 

Dainty Bess 

Pink 

12 

Cecil 

Yellow 


POLYANTHAS 
Small Flowered 
A Edith Cavell 
6 Orleans 
18 Ideal 

3 Katherine Zeimet 


6 

Golden Salmon 

Orange 

6 

Gloria Mundi 

Orange 

6 

Coral Cluster 

Pink 

12 

Chatillon 

Pink 

18 

Le Marne 

Pink 


Large Flowered 


8 

Lafayette 

Rose Red 

6 

Else Poulsen 

Pink 

6 

Salmon Spray 

Pink 

6 

Kirsten Poulsen 

Red 

1 

Gruss an Aachen 

Flesh 


Bush Varieties in Beds 

Finks 

18 Pink Radiance 
6 Shell Pink or Mrs. Charles Bell 
6 Los Angeles 
6 Wilhelm Kordes 
6 Betty Uprichard 
6 Countess Ilchester 
6 Columbia 
6 Madame Butterfly 
6 Georges Pernet 
3 Mrs. Henry Bowles 

Flame, Orange and Two Toned 
3 Norman Lambert 
3 Rosella Sweet 
6 Padre 
6 Cuba 

3 Margaret McGredy 
6 President Hoover 
6 Talisman 

Yellows 

6 Ville de Paris 
6 Mrs. E. P. Thom 
6 Mrs. Pierre S. DuPont 
6 Feu Joseph Looymans 
6 Lady Hillington 

Reds 

24 Red Radiance 
12 E. G. Hill 
12 Etoile de Hollande 
12 Charles K. Douglas 

Grand Total 


Hardy Climbers - -- -- -- 30 

Hybrid-Tea Climbers ----- g 
Shurb Roses - -- -- -- - 12 

Single Roses . - 3 6 

Polyanthas -------- 137 

Bush Roses.- - - 192 

Total. 415 


Red 

Rose Red 
Dark Red 
White 









ROSES 


205 


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dfose (garden 

for the Southwest 

J n planning a Rose garden, consideration was given to the limited 
space at the disposal of the average Rose-lover. The plan worked out 
in the accompanying sketch calls for only an average back yard, accom¬ 
modating itself to a plot fifty feet wide and sixty feet long. But in it are 
included, with ample room for each, some four hundred and fifteen Rose 
plants, representing most of the types in commerce today in seventy-eight 
excellent varieties. 

Directly opposite the gateway at the farther end of the garden is a long 
arbor or summer-house covered with climbing Roses and edged with Poly- 
anthas. The remaining space in this garden is divided into four equal sec¬ 
tions by two main intersecting walks. The main path from the gateway 
to the arbor is planted at ten-foot intervals with climbing Roses trained 
over arches and is bordered with Polyanthas. At either end of the inter¬ 
secting main path is a seat and at intervals throughout the plan are placed 
accents in the form of tall cypress trees and small evergreens. Both main 
walks are of grass and meet in a large circular plot, in the center of which 
is a sundial. 

The four main sections of the garden contain each three beds of bush 
Roses, one long outside bed for the taller growing varieties and two smaller 
ones for the lower growing sorts. The long beds are eighteen feet long and 
four feet wide and contain twenty-four bushes in two rows of twelve 
bushes each, planted eighteen inches apart one way and two feet the other. 
The two small beds in each section are eight feet long and three and one- 
half feet wide and contain twelve bushes in two rows of six each, planted 
sixteen inches apart. 

The general color arrangement for the garden places the strong shades, 
such as reds, in the foreground and the lighter pinks, yellows and whites 
in the background. This lends an impression of greater distance to the 
perspective. The color arrangement for the beds groups Roses of the same 
or blending shades of one color in a bed; the four beds bordering on the 
central circular plot having shades of flame and orange Roses in those 


206 



A ROSE GARDEN FOR THE SOUTHWEST 207 


bushes closest to the showy brilliance of the orange Polyanthas, Golden 
Salmon and Gloria Mundi. 

For the full length of two sides of the garden there is a six-foot border 
planted in shrub Roses, Polyanthas and the single varieties with a back¬ 
ground of latticed fence supporting Climbers. This fence may extend 
across the back line of the garden also if the arbor is on the edge of the 
property. 

Across the front of the garden are tall posts connected by chains or 
rope-swags, over which the Climbing Roses planted at the posts are 
trained. At the base of these festoons there is a low border of Polyanthas, 
the whole of this front treatment being designed to give an unobstructed 
view of the garden. 

The shrub border may be omitted where there is less space or may be 
planted in perennials and shrubs other than Rose . . . but its exclusion 
would mean a loss of many lovely varieties. 

The summer-house also might be omitted, but it would be a pity, for 
it is with a probable sigh of relief from all concerned that after such a 
pilgrimage through countless Roses we should come at last to a place of 
rest. The French call such an arbor a "Gloriette” and what name could be 
more fitting when it is canopied with Roses? 

A Rose garden is not just a place to look at, but a place to live in. And 
roofed against the uninterrupted sunlight that the Rose so loves, this 
summer-house offers a needed spot to sit in peace and shade and enjoy 
the fruit of one’s labors. 

We may say "sit in peace,” but what Rose-lover ever really views with 
a peaceful eye the landscape of his making? Given the slightest excuse 

"To grasp this sorry Scheme of Things entire 
Would not we shatter it to bits—and then 
Remould it nearer to the Heart's Desire?” 


Power of 
Color 


Green 

Engenders 

Repose 

and 

Relaxation 


How to 
Create 
Perspective 


Color . . . 

the Secret of Charm 

/I garden that expresses or emphasizes a single dominant 
thought or feeling has been judged the height of garden 
art. It may be quiet or bold—unassuming or gay—florid or demure 
—in fact, the range is as wide as the complexity of emotional 
appeal suggests. With the season, its mood may be refreshingly 
varied, yet preserve intact its dominant characteristic—that which 
is indicative of its designer’s personality. All the possibilities from 
the flamboyance of exurberance, through gayety, to quiet repose 
or the subtle suggestion of tranquil content, register an appeal to 
the senses through combinations, or shades, of color. 

In adapting that fact which the Orientals have long recognized 
—that is, that green is the color which engenders repose and relaxa¬ 
tion from tension—wise Southwestern gardeners provide expanse of 
lawns and vine-covered arbors or trellises, as well as shade-trees and 
groupings of shrubs for boundary or foundation-planting. When 
one chooses a garden of predominant green, a certain graceful dig¬ 
nity is always present, which requires that width of paths, borders 
and central grass-plot which creates the illusion of, or is in actual¬ 
ity, spaciousness. 

Since far objects appear hazy, the smoky grey-green foliage of 
plants like Leucophyllum (Senesa) register distance; while, by 
placing subdued, tho deep, tones nearest the windows of the house, 
and strong virile ones at commanding intervals emphasis may be 
brought in relative force on near and far objects, and perspec¬ 
tive lengthened. Rich dark-green-foliaged plants, especially those 
with stiff geometrical outlines, when spaced within regular rows of 
planting that are edged by a precision of line, tend to create greater 
formality and at the same time constrict the apparent size of the 
garden, rather than enlarge it. 


208 


COLOR THE SECRET OF CHARM 


209 


Altho shades must blend to create harmony, points of con¬ 
trast are needed to excite interest, and lure one to unexpected 
beauty spots. Paths must blend in tone, ground-covers must be 
unobtrusive, and the general panorama, to be aesthecially pleasing, 
must offer both appeal and promise. 

Many favorites must be rejected when a garden of one color 
only is chosen. There are some plants, such as Roses or Zinnias, that 
offer one a range of color-choice that enables almost any desired 
shade to be selected, yet neither offers the blues or the blue-red 
combinations on th color-wheel, that is to say, the range from pale 
lavenders to deep purples. And the chief plants that offer these sel¬ 
dom include the yellows. In fact the white, yellow, red and blues, 
in their range of blends from one into the other are perhaps to be 
found only in the Iris or the Hardy Aster families. Of the Lilies, 
only those of the water-growing branches include the blues, reds, 
white aiud yellow. So a single-color garden is necessarily limited 
in variety and is restricted to those families of plants that offer 
what is desired. 

Definite color treatments for a season or merely for a corner or 
portion of the garden, are not difficult to secure. If one wishes to 
have a yellow and green garden from Spring until frost, one may 
have Narcissus, (Daffodils), Jonquils, Tulips, Pansies, Dogtoothed 
Violets, Hyacinths, Forsythia and jasmine tmmile (early), followed 
by sweet-scented Scotch Broom, California Poppies, Hemerocallis 
(Lemon and Orange Lilies), Wall-flowers, Gladioli, Cactus Opun- 
tia (Prickly Pear), Daisies, Columbine, Lemon Phlox, Santolina, 
Iris, Cassia and Nasturtiums. Both Bush and Climbing Roses offer 
shades of yellow and most of the bush varieties bloom again in 
the fall. The Snapdragons, Oenotheras (Evening Primrose), Water- 
lilies, Trumpet Vines and Zinnias begin blooming early in the sum¬ 
mer and continue until frost. Helianthemums, Helianthus and 
Helioposis begin to flower in the early fall and are followed by 
Lantana, Marigolds, Calendulas, Klondike Cosmos and many kinds 
and shades of yellow and orange Chrysanthemums. 


Gardens 
of One 
Dominant 
Color 
Limited 
in Variety 


Some 

Suggested 

Color 

Treatments 

in Tones of 

Yellow 


210 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 



Blossoms for Each of the Twenty-four Hours 

Should one wish a unique flower arrangement, a planting around a pool 
can be planned so that blossoms will come into flower each succeeding hour. 


beginning with the 




Ragged Poppy . . 

at 3 A.M. 

Dandelion and Potato 

at 1 P. M. 

Swamp Rose . . . 

at 4 A. M. 

Whiteday Waterlily . 

at 2 P. M. 

Black Night Shade . 

at 5 A. M. 

Iris. 

at 3 P. M. 

Hemerocallis Lemon 


Four o’Clocks . . . 

at 4 P. M. 

Daylily .... 

at 6 A. M. 

Evening Primrose 


Morning Glories . . 

at 7 A.M. 

(Oenothera) . . 

at J P. M. 

Deanthus (Pinks) 

at 8 A. M. 

Jimson Weed (Datura) 

at 6 P. M. 

Marigolds .... 

at 9 A. M. 

Night Blooming Cereus 

at 7 P. M. 

Poppies .... 

at 10 A. M. 

Honesty. 

at 8 P. M. 

Purslane .... 

at 11 A. M. 

Night Blooming 


Thistles .... 

at 12 Noon 

Jasmine .... 

at 9 P. M. 

'While the Fink, White 

and Yellow Tropical Waterlilies unfurl in succession from 10 


P. M. until 3 A. M., and on moonlight nights the Yuccas open their pyramids of white 
hells, glistening under the moon's rays with unusually satiny sheen. 







COLOR THE SECRET OF CHARM 


211 


For a garden of blue, Scilla (Squill); Muscari (Grape), and other 
Hyacinths; Pansies and Bluebonnets (Lupinus texensis) come early. 
The dainty Blue-eyed Grass, Cornflowers, Iris and Larkspur begin 
blooming about the same time. The Clematis and the star-like Pas¬ 
sion flowers first show among their curling tendrils. Picture a white 
frame house with snowy picket fence, amass with heavenly blue 
Cornflowers, the sole blossom during its season of bloom! Petunias 
and Verbenas, long spikes of Veronica, exquisite Tropical Water- 
lilies, several varieties of the graceful grey-foliaged Blue Salvias 
and Plumbago; the Vitex and Japanese Morning Glories begin 
blooming in the early summer, and to their ranks are joined, early 
in the fail, the fluffy-plumed Ageratum and the thorny Eryngium. 

Shading toward red come the lavenders and purples. Earliest in 
the spring the lovely Wisteria droops its panicles of blue-lavender 
over Violets and many tones of Pansies and Hyacinths. Sweet Peas, 
Candytuft and pale lavender double Poppies, Penstemon Cobaea, 
many tones of Iris and Columbine, Alyssum, Phlox and Gladioli— 
all pastel tones of delicate beauty—bloom throughout the spring, 
while Pbysostegia virginiana (False Dragonhead), with Trailing 
Lantana, Senesa and Verbenas carry these pastel shades throughout 
the fall months. Liatris (Blazing Star) is a deeper hue and is one 
of the glories of the fall gardens, together with the many shades 
that tie the blue purples into the reds found in the fall-blooming 
Hardy Asters (Michaelmas Daisies), and Chrysanthemums. 

Brilliant red in the spring is the Standing Tree-Cypress, often 
called Texas Plume, gay and compelling, as outstanding as the fiery 
Cockscomb of the fall. Gaillardia (Indian Blanket or Firewheel) 
is as vividly red and yellow from spring until frost as is another 
native plant, the Poinciana, a graceful shrub with feathery foliage. 
Blooming late in the summer comes the unusual Spider or Guernsey 
Lily and the wine-cups of the Habranthus Lily and the native 
Primrose. The Cypress vine and the Scarlet Runnerbean carry the 
reds on the trellises while Portulaca (Flowering Moss) carpets the 
ground from early summer* until late fall. Kochiia and Poinsettia 
are brilliant foliage-plants, the former turning its gayest after frost, 


Tones of 
Blue 


Lavender 

and 

Purple 

Blossoms 


Red 

Flowers 


212 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Rose and 

Pink 

Shades 


Rose 

Tones 


while the latter is fatally sensitive to a breath of cold air. Agarita 
(our native Barberry), with our native Holly and Yaupon are 
cherished all through the winter for their brilliant red berries, 
while Sumac (Rhus) flames when October nights bring frost. 

Certain plants may be had both in the bright or dull reds and 
in the paler rose tones. Among these are the Tulips, Amaryllis, Iris 
and Flowering Almond which bloom in the early spring. Gladioli, 
Sweet peas, Phlox, Tropical Waterlilies, Pyrethrum (Painted 
Daisies) and Climbing Roses bloom valiantly until the heat of 
summer descends. Bush Roses that blossom twice, together with 
Altheas (shrubs), Zinnias, Crape Myrtle, Touch-me-nots and Snap¬ 
dragons are lovely throughout summer and fall. 

In the rose tones only are the early blooming Bleeding-Heart 
and Flowering Peach. Weigelia soon follows and the double rose 
Tulips, Poppies and Larkspur bloom together. The pink Crinums 
come in the late summer with the Speciosum Lily, and are followed 
closely by Cleome, the Sedums and that lovely vine known as 
Queen’s Wreath. 

White flowers for purity and moonlight! What could be daintier 
than the early Spring Snowdrops (Galanthus ), Rainlilies, Snow¬ 
flakes (Leucojum vernum), or the trailing Star Jasmine! Pure white 
hyacinths perfume the air that is wafted over them. Spirea, or 
Bridal Wreath, trails long graceful sprays over low-growing Pan¬ 
sies. Delicate Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila ), single Poppy-cups, large 
and small, golden-centered Daisies, all are brought by Spring. The 
revered White Flag (Iris Florentina), beloved for ages by the 
Mohammedans, precedes Regale, Easter and Madonna Lilies. The 
tall Hollyhocks, Achillea, Mock Orange, Cosmos, Queen’s Lace and 
Elders lift their lovely sprays of bloom above the lowly Candytuft 
and Phlox. Sweetpeas and Moonvines climb the walls and arbors, 
while Four o’Clocks, Snow-on-the-mountain, Magnolias, Alyssum, 
Snapdragons, Petunias, Verbenas, Abelias, Roses, Crinum, Yuccas 
—that open their bells in the moonlight—and Zinnias bloom in 
early summer and most of them continue through till late fall. 
Datura blossoms in late summer and is closely followed by the fra- 






COLOR THE SECRET OF CHARM 


213 


grant old-fashioned Tuberose and the Mexican Prickly Poppy. 
These, in turn, give way to the various members of the Chrysan¬ 
themum family. After every rain dainty Rain Lilies flower and 
Waterlilies float their wax-like cups in their beauty of perfection. 
Old-fashioned night-blooming Cereus and Jasmine lure one into 
the garden on warm nights, lest their exquisite loveliness be missed 
—they pass with the kiss of the sun. 

Fascinating as it is to experiment with blocks of color in one’s 
own garden, what a thrill it is to plan a color-scheme for a neigh¬ 
borhood, a park, a town, or an entire State! In 1936—Texas Cen¬ 
tennial Year—a planting-scheme general in scope, was outlined, 
which was a simple tho effective combination of those plants that 
flourish in the region—hardy, inexpensive, readily obtained, and 
needing little or no cultivation. It was heartily adopted, widely 
publicized, and beautifully carried out thruout the Southwest. 

Keeping in mind that for celebrations blocks of a mass-color 
effect—not kaleidoscopic variations of many colors—produced by 
the extensive use of the same plant (selected because effects could 
be secured in the shortest time, with the least expenditure) shades 
of rose and gold were chosen to be emphasized, for yellows pre¬ 
dominate among the flowers that thrive in the Southwest and rose 
as a contrasting shade is most effective, and more easily found in 
the hardy plants of the region. There were selected to be in domi¬ 
nance over the blues, lavenders, etc.; but not to exclude the use of 
those other colors, however. 

Of the shrubs chosen Redbud, watermelon-pink Crepe Myrtle, 
and Abelia (low-growing, pink-and-white) carry the rose shade 
from spring to fall, produce a profusion of bloom, and blend in 
tone with the other flowering plants. These were supplemented 
by Roses—climbing, shrub, bush and Polyanthas. 

Seeds that produce effective drifts of the chosen colors include 
Larkspur, Poppies, annual Phlox, Petunias (Rosy Morn and V/o- 
licea); Zinnias (including the Salmon Rose Lilliput), and Verbenas 
(in rose, pink, and purple, suggested for borders). The brilliant 


A Wide 
Choice 
of White 
Blossoms 


214 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Combina¬ 
tions of 
Colors 
Fascinating 


The Fit¬ 
ness of 
Color 
Placing 
Emphasized 


Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower), Helianthemums, and Cassia Flori - 
bundta make valuable, tall-growing additions to the picture. 

Orange, red, and russet Marigolds give fall brilliance, with 
Chrysanthemums and rose Lantanas. 

Castor beans make a quick growth—a decorative hedge or 
screen—as do all the Sumac (Rhus), with their gorgeous autumn 
foliage. 

The orange, and the red Trumpet Vine are both brilliant and 
effective. Morning glories (especially the blue, and the rose flowers) 
combine charmingly with the fall bloom of the delicate rose of 
Queen’s Wreath or the scarlet of Cypress, and the full splendor of 
the Moon-vine. 

Charming as are single-color schemes, the fascination of color 
combinations intrigues most people to experiment with them rather 
than practice that rigid selectiveness which is invariably necessary 
to insure success with one shade or tone. Yet to obtain the most 
pleasing color combinations, particular attention to the relation¬ 
ship of the strong yellow light to flowers must be carefully con¬ 
sidered. Certain shades are most difficult to place in harmony with 
the rest of the garden. Magenta tones are best in half shade. In 
fact, most of the reds are so insistent that, in general, it is wisest to 
use them sparingly. Against the tropical planting demanded by 
the Spanish-type house, modified and adapted to the requirements 
of the Southwest, reds appear to best advantage. Deep rich red 
Poppies accented by a few spikes of blue Larkspur, Scarlet Lobelia 
cardinalis or Gilia rubra , "Texas Plume,” rising from a haze of 
Plumbago Capensis are as effective as Scarlet Salvia amidst pure 
white Alyssum. A bed of rose and purple Petunias are as rich in 
tone as Bluebonnets with annual Scarlet Phlox. Cannas are best 
grouped alone. Dusty Miller, sheltering the delicate grace of the 
Spider, or Guernsey Lily, is an ideal combination. 

It has been long accepted that most flowers show best against 
neutral or light shades. Therefore, the pastel tones are most effec¬ 
tive in combination with a colonial cottage because of the use of 
cream or white paint on the building. There is also a fitness in 


COLOR THE SECRET OF CHARM 


215 


placing delicacy of coloring against lacy foliage, gaining variabili¬ 
ties through texture and heights rather than by the contrasts of 
rich, warm colors accented by, or accenting, paler tones. 

Grey foliage plants tie the garden colors together with a more 
pleasing blend than where they are omitted. Of these the Arte- 
mesias have a misty quality—some taller than others—some even 
trailing. The Verbascums’ foliage is silver-white—the Eriophyllums 
are yellowish; Mullein, Thyme, and Agrostemma have fat, downy 
leaves. Santolina, California poppies, Euphorbia myrstnttes , Cam¬ 
panula tsophylla mayi and Veronica pectinata rosea make excellent 
border plants. Senisa, Buckeye (Assculus octonadra flava) Eleag- 
nus angustafolia are quite indispensible shrubs; while Cornflowers 
and Achillea tormentosa’s uses are widely known. 


GRAY FOLIAGE PLANTS 


Achillea tormentosa 
Argrostemma 
Arsculus octonardia flava 
(Spanish Buckeye) 
Artemesias (in variety) 
California Poppies 
Campanula tsophylla mayi 
Cerastium 

Centarueas (Cornflowers, 


etc.) 

Eleagnus augustifolia 
Eriophyllum 
Euphorbia myrsmites 
Gypsophila 

Leucophyllum (Senisa) 
Mullein 
Nepeta mussirn 
Salvias 


Saxifrage 

Sedum 

Sempervivum 

Stock 

Trailing Lantana 
Thyme 
Verbascums 
Veronicas 


COLOR WHEEL 

WARM COLORS 



COOL COLORS 







216 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Sometimes when a definite color scheme, or special treatment is 
desired for a corner, or portion of the garden, certain color-tones 
blended, or a single shade varied only by the texture and tone of 
leaf or height of plant, it is helpful to have a list of tested shrubs, 
vines and flowers arranged for quick, ready reference. 

Success in achieving pleasing effects handling flowers—whether 
cut blossoms or growing plants—depends on attention to a few 
essential color-facts. 

Remember that ... 

White is the subtle, perfect blend of the three primary colors 
—red, blue and yellow. 

So-called Complementary, or Secondary colors, are formed 
where the perfect blend of the adjacent primary colors 
meet each other—i. e., 

red -f- blue = violet (complementary to yellow), 
blue + yellow = green (complementary to red), 
yellow -f“ red = orange (complementary to blue). 

True-color-zone (where colors are most vivid) is approxi¬ 
mately half way between white and black, (which is an 
absence of light). 

Any color becomes “greyed” by the specific amount of white 
(or black) that is added to its “pure”, “true” or “most 
vivid” state. 

Intensity or purity of color varies with the degree, hue, and 
angle of light, plus the background (dark to black back¬ 
grounds intensifying or brightening color; light to white 
backgrounds softening or blurring them). 

To create illusion of distance: shades of grey (simulating haze) 
are employed (from dark tones towards pale, ranging outward 
from any fixed point). 

Texture (of leaf, blossom, and stem) influences degree of color 
intensity, increasing or decreasing it relative “purity” in direct 
ratio from coarse (large, thick, heavy, dark, etc.) to fine (deli¬ 
cate, lacy, airy, thin, etc.). 


COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 


217 


Red is termed the "warm” color; blue the "cool” color; yellow 
the "emotional variant”. All warm shades, and tints impart light 
—cool ones appear to absorb it. 

The "shade” is indicated by the amount of black in any color’s 
"pure” or "true” spectrum state—its "tint” is determined by the 
degree of white. 

Symbolically, colors have been used for untold generations to 
express emotions of almost infinite variety, range, and intensity. 
Judicious and skilled employment of color develops, or destroys, 
both men and animals. 




218 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 

Flowers Listed for Color and for Special Purposes 
A GARDEN OF WHITE 


Abelia 
Alliums 
Alyssum 
Apache Plume 
As til be 

Baby’ Breath (Gypsophilia) 

Candytuft 

Chrysanthemum 

Cosmos 

Crinum 

Daisies 

Datura (Jimson Weed) 

Dahlias 

Four o’Clocks 

Erythronium 

Gladioli 

Hardy Hydrangea 

Hollyhocks 

Hyacinths 


(Paper White, water, etc.) 
Jasmine Cestrum 
(Night Blooming) 
Larkspur 
Lilac 

Madonna Lily 

Magnolia 

Mock Orange 

Moonvine 

Mullein 

Morning Glory 

Pansies 

Petunias 

Phlox 

Poppies, (including Prickly) 
Portulaca 
Queens Lace 
“Rain Lilies” 

Regale Lily 


Roses 

Snapdragon 

Snowballs ( Viburnum ) 
Snowdrops (Galanthus) 
Snow Flakes 

(Leucojum Vernum) 
"Snow-on-the-mountain” 
Spirea 

Star Jasmine 

Stock 

Sweet Peas 

Touch-me-not 

Tuberose 

Tulips 

Verbenas 

Wisteria 

Yarrow (Achillea) 

Yucca 

Zinnia 


A GARDEN OF YELLOW OR ORANGE 


Achillea 

Ascelcpia Tuberoia 
Cactus (Opuntia) 
Calendula 
Galliopsis 
Cassia 

Chrysanthemums 
(many kinds) 
Columbine (very light) 
Cornflower (Montana) 
Cosmos (Klondike) 
Daffodils 
Dahlias 
Daisies 
Forsythia 
Four o’Clocks 
Gladioli 
Honeysuckles 


Ageratum 

Agapanthus 

(Lily of the Nile) 
Anchusa 

Anchusa ( my osotidi flora) 
Bluebonnet 
Clematis (Vine) 
Cornflowers 

(Bachelor Buttons) 

(Centaurea Cyanus) 
Cynoglossom 


Helianthemum 

Huisache 

Helianthus 

Heliopsis 

Hemoracallis (Lemon Lily) 

Hyacinths 

Iris (several kinds) 

Jasmine humile 
Jasmine GeUemium 
sempervirena 
Jasmine Primrose 
Jonquils 

Linaria (grown extensively 
in El Paso) 

Lantana 

Marigold 

Narcissus 

Nasturtiums 


Oenothera 

Evening Primrose) 
Orange Lilies 
Pansies 

Phlox (Light) 

Poppies (California) 

Roses (Bush and Climbing) 

R ud A/tf-Coneflower 

Santolina 

Scotch Broom 

Snapdragon 

Tiger Lilies 

Tulips 

Trailing Mimsoa 
Umbalatum Lily 
Wallflower 

Waterlilies (three kinds) 
Zinnia 


A GARDEN OF BLUE 


(Chinese Forget-me-not) 
Eryngium 
Flax (Linium) 

Hyacinths 

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) 
Iris 

Larkspur 

Linaria (Toadflax) 

Morning Glory (Jap.) 
Pansies 

Plumbago Capensis 


Plumbago Larpentae 

Salvia farinecea 

Salvia ballottaeflora 

Salvia (Pitcheri) 

Squill (Scilla) 

Tropical Water Lilies 

Verbena 

Veronica 

Vitex 

Violet 




COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 


219 


A GARDEN OF ROSE OR RED 


Red 

Agar it a (Berries) 

Bottle brush 
Cockscomb (Celosia) 
Columbine (with yellow) 
Cypress Vine 
Gaillardia (with yellow) 
Guernsey Lily 
Holly (Berries) 
Honeysuckle 
Habranthus lily 
Kochia Scoparia (foliage) 
Linum rubrum 
(Scarlet Flax) 

Lobelia splendens 
Lobelia cardinalis 
Monarda 
Peppers 

Perennial Pea Vine 

Pomegranates 

Poinsettia 

Tree Cypress (Gilia rubra) 
Salvia splendens ( coccinea) 
Salvia Greggii 
Snapdragon 
Sumac (Rhus) 


Yaupon (Berries) 

Yucca (Hesperaloe) 

Rose 

Anthony Caterer Spirea 

Cleome 

Coleus 

Columbine 

Cornflower (Centaurea) 
(Bachelor Button) 
Crinum 
Larkspur 
Hyacinths 

Mimosa pudica (trailing) 
Peach (flowering) 
Petunias 
Primrose 

Queen’s Wreath Vine 

Oxalis 

"Rain Lily” 

Sedums 

Tamarix (salt cedar) 
Yarrow (Achillea) 

Both Tones 

Almond 

Altheas 

Amaryllis 


Cactus 

Cosmos 

Crape-Myrtle 

Dahlia 

Dianthus (Pinks) 

Four o’Clocks 

Geraniums 

Gladioli 

Hibiscus 

Hollyhocks 

Iris 

Oleander 

Peonies 

Portulaca 

Phlox paniculata-Maculata 

Phlox Drummondii 

Phlox sublata 

Phlox divaricata 

Poppies 

Pyrethrum 

Roses (Bush and Climbers) 

Sweet Peas 

Touch-me-not 

Tulips 

Verbenas 

Waterlilies 

Zinnias 


A GARDEN OF LAVENDER OR PURPLE 


Alyssum 
Butterfly Bush 
Candytuft 
Centaurea americana 
(Star Thistle) 
Chrysanthemum 
Clarkia 
Cleome 

Clematis Jackmant (vine) 

Columbine 

Gladiola 

Hyacinths 

Iris 


Larkspur 

Lilac 

Liriope 

Liatris ( Gay feather- 
Blazing Star) 
Monarda (purpurea) 
Pansies 

Penstemon Cobaea 
(Beards Tongue) 
Petunias 
Phlox 

Physostegia virginica 
Poppies 


Senisa 

(Leucophyllum texanum) 
Statice ( annual) 

Sweet Lavender 
Sweet peas 
Stocks 

Trailing Lantana 

Verbena 

Veronica 

Violets 

Vitex 

Wisteria 


A GARDEN FOR FRAGRANCE 


Alyssum 

Bush Honeysuckle-early 
(Lonicera fragrantissima) 
Broom (Genista) 

Carolina Yellow Jasmine 
(Gelsemtum sempervtvum) 
Cedars 
Citrus fruits 
Datura 

Diant hus (Pinks) 

Elder 


Heliotrope 

Honey Locust 

Honeysuckles (Lonicera) 

Jasmine (in variety) 

Jonquils 

Lavendar 

Lemon Verbena 

Magnolias 

Mimosa (all Acacias) 

Mint 

Petunias 


Phlox 

Prunus (in variety) 
Roses (especially 
Marechal Niel) 
Rose Geranium 
Rosemary 
Sweet Peas 
Thyme 
Tuberose 
Viburnum 
Violets 




220 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


CHIEF DROUGHT-RESISTANT PLANTS 


Need Minimum 



Water 

Achilleas (Yarrow) 

Agarita 

Ageratum 

Altheas 

Alyssum 

Apache Plume 

Arctores 

Argemone 

Artemesias 

Ascelepias 

Asters 

Buddlea 

Castor Bean 

Celosia (Cockscomb) 

Cornflowers 

Coreopsis -Calliopsis 

Crepe Myrtle 

Daisies 

Datura 

Desert Willow 

Euphorbias 

Eryngium 

Four o’clocks 

Gaillardias 

Greasewood 

Helianthus family 

Honeylocust 

Lantana 

Liatris 

Mesquite 

Mimosa 

Monarda 

Mullein 

Myrtle (Vinca) 
Oenotheras (Evening 
Primrose) 

Parkinsonia 

Petunias 

Plumbago 

Portulaca 

Poinsettia 

Redbud 

Rudbeckia (Cone flowers) 

Salvias 

Senisa 

Sophora 

S olidago (Golden rod) 

Tamarix 

Texas Plume 

Thunbergia 

Trumpet vine 

Verbena 

Virginia Creeper 
Zinnias 



ardend 



PARADISIV in SOLE 

ParacWus r Tevte&;?i $. 

$ (jarcdut ofaJCJorfS of ^Jue. afant^filewers - 


fort • . - 


221 





















Ideal 

Hillside 

Garden 


A Natural 

Slope 

Developed 


Kind of 
Stones 
Advised to 
Be Used 



Hillside (gardens 

mass of bloom on a slope or series of terraces 
is the ideal hillside garden, often mistakenly termed Rock 
Garden, for true Rock Gardens in the Orient, notably in 
China, feature the tumbled irregularity and fantastic 
shapes of the rocks themselves, with very little plant- 
growth among them. 

Where one has a natural slope, it may be built up with¬ 
out a great deal of labor, and transformed into a garden of delight 
by terracing it, and confining sufficient good, growing loam for 
various types of plants, through the skillful placing of large or 
medium-sized stones, here and there, with careful carelessness. 
Embed these deep into the hillside with very little surface exposed, 
in order that they may hold the moisture and keep the soil from 
slipping away from the plants. Pack the soil tightly around these 
rocks. Be sure no airpockets are left. The deep spaces between them 
will afford that amount of nourishment required by those plants 
that thrive on slopes. One of the greatest advantages in making a 
Rock Garden, artificially, is the possibility of having many pockets 
of different, friable soil mixtures (acid, neutral, etc.) whose basis 
is topsoil, in which one may experiment with rare, unusual plants. 

Select stones large enough that there may be sufficient space be¬ 
tween them to prevent the soil in the various pockets from inter¬ 
mingling. Varying their sizes gives, also, a more artistic effect, just 
as avoiding the standing on end of many odd-shaped specimens, 
or the use of rounded, small-sized stones in profusion. The general 
strain of the stratification in which every type of rock is found in 
Nature’s garden appears more realistic when followed in transport¬ 
ing them to other locations. Particularly on a hillside, the freshly 
broken surface of a stone should never be exposed. Where there is 


222 



HILLSIDE GARDENS 


223 


a choice of a weathered side, turn it uppermost, for it will blend 
much more naturally into the prevailing tone and general com¬ 
position. 

Remember, a rock pile is not a Rock Garden. 

In designing the slope, certain artificiality may be avoided by 
using curved walks that disappear around a clump of low shrubs, 
or winding paths that entice one to explore their length. Straight In f ormali *y 
lines or geometrical shapes give that formality which is generally 
undesirable. 

Winding paths and irregular outlines suggest hidden treasures 
around their curves. One may come upon an unexpected drywall, 
massed with bloom, the secret of the successful construction of 
which lies largely in tilting or tipping the stones, as they are laid 
in alternate layers of dry earth (composed of two-thirds sandy- 
loam to one-third peat) so tightly packed into the crevices that 
no air-pocket can remain, tilted a bit to let water drain into the 
soil rather than off the wall; and in taking care that the thickness 
of the base is at least one-third the finished, or total height of the 
wall. Such a wall is most useful and effective as a retaining wall for 
the different levels or terraces, especially useful when a pool is 
excavated from level ground. Planted, even overplanted for surer 
life of desired specimens, when in the process of construction, such 
a wall will be a continual joy. 

Of utmost importance, though too often neglected, are those 
little paths that thread the garden, particularly the hillside garden. 

When they are wide enough to insure easy motion, they lure one 
to explore them. When the surface of which they are made blends 
in color and texture with the general scheme of planting, and with Paths 
the materials of which the buildings are constructed, they tone in 
as a component part of a perfect unit. There is great diversity both 
in the shades and in the materials, which offer one a wide range 
of choice, from the shiny jet-black of coal, through the duskiness 
of cinders, and certain crushed stones; the blue-greys or tones of 
red-browns in various kinds of stone; the tan of gravel, to the 
cream white of cement. Brick or tile also may be had in practically 


224 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Ground 

Covers 


Steps 


Soil- 

Pockets 


any color desired. Cement may be colored, or slate secured in dull 
tones. Yet, wherever possible, the soft, living-green of grasspaths 
is as lovely to walk on as to look at; although the runners of the 
Bermuda are difficult to keep clipped and within bounds. 

Living, non-flowering green ground-covers, other than grass, 
generally demand semi-shade, and will not admit of much walk- 
ing-on. Where a light spring-green shade is desired for har¬ 
mony "Creeping Charley” (Nepeta hederacea) or ground ivy 
(known by many other common names)—or the variety known as 
variagata, with its leaves speckled irregularly with white—gives 
a lovely carpet of tiny, rounded leaves. English Ivy’s rich, shiny 
leaves make a distinctly unusual carpet, though it is slow of 
growth. 

Terraces connected by low, never steep, steps—preferably made 
of large, flat stones—lure one by easy stages to the top of the slope. 
Most artistic are stones that are chosen with regard for their tone- 
blend with the predominant color of the soil of the locality in 
which they are to be used. Moss-grown, or practically covered with 
a trailing plant, these stone steps often are the means of exploiting 
the vividness and beauty of a plant, rather than being themselves 
too much in evidence. 

In the Southwest, where rocks are more or less foreign, to be 
in keeping with natural conditions the most artistic way to employ 
them is to sink them so deep into the hillside that they serve only 
as retainers of the soil and only very occasionally be allowed to be 
a feature. In planting around them remember proper drainage is 
most necessary. In some cases the soil-pockets should contain a 
layer of four to six inches of cinders, gravel or small pieces of 
stone or brick in the bottom of the hole. Where this is needed, the 
excavation should be at least two feet deep. Sometimes an inch or 
two of coal cinders in an eighteen-inch hole is sufficient. A layer of 
decayed vegetable-matter should be placed between the drainage 
stones and the growing-earth. This top layer should be at least 
twelve inches, of equal parts of sand, loam (rich dirt or topsoil), 


HILLSIDE GARDENS 


221 


and leaf-mold. Bonemeal is said to be the best fertilizer to use after 
the plants are established, as well as when planting. 

One may make a very effective Rock Garden on level ground 
(preferably with an eastern or northern exposure which afford 
most protection) by placing it in a corner with a vine-covered 
fence, or the greenery of massed shrubs as a background. The illu¬ 
sion of its being a portion of a true hillside may thus be cleverly 
simulated. Aesthetic beauty in gardens, as in every other phase of 
life, does not tolerate artificiality, therefore, frame and develop 
a little hillside with the greatest thought and care. 

In general, until one becomes what might be termed an experi¬ 
enced amateur, probably the greater number of gardeners will 
prefer to grow those tested groups of plants which will give the 
surer display of bloom. These may include dwarf bushes and those 
low or creeping plants that have been tested in our climate. It is 
seldom advisable to start Rock Garden plants from seed in the 
pockets. The idea that a Rock Garden or hillside should contain 
only Alpine (snow-level) plants which have developed immunity 
to all the extremes of weather conditions, is being superseded. Each 
locality is adapting the plan of planting slopes with those flowers 
acclimated and suited to its own peculiar requirements, emphasiz¬ 
ing the lowliness of the plants and their diversity of color in foliage 
and blossom, rather than any specific group of varieties. Double 
or variegated flowers are not considered as artistic as large clumps 
of single tones. Simplicity is the keynote. And charm lies in the 
definite note of restraint—most essential in the smaller or miniature 
designs, in which one’s ingenuity is taxed to the fullest. 

One’s hillside may boast many of the smaller bulbs (see page 
143) for early bloom—among the Alliums, Jonquils, and Dwarf 
Iris. Our native Bluebonnets —(Lupinus texensis ), Primroses 
(Oenotheras), Callirhoe (Wine Cups), Pansies, Dogtoothed (Ery - 
thronium) and Wild Violets, and varieties of Astilbe are lovely. 
Perhaps the most satisfactory plants are the Sedums and Semperviv- 
ums. Low-growing Phlox, Thyme for fragrance, clumps of Pinks 
(Dianthus), white Alyssum, purple Teucrium, orange Wallflowers, 


An Arti¬ 
ficial 
Hillside 


Hillside 
Plants to 
Each 
Locality 


Specific 

Hillside 

Plants 

Adapted 

to the 

Southwest 


226 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Unusual 

Effects 


General 
Advice to 
Hillside 
Gardeners 


the dusty foilage and fluffy golden balls of Santolina, Tulipas, 
dwarf blue Plumbago, Candytuft, Draba (wild Alyssum or Candy¬ 
tuft), Sweet William, Daisies, and certain of the Salvias may be 
varied with climbing and trailing Nasturitiums; California Poppies, 
Petunias, Verbenas, Lantanas, or Portulaca. 

Polyantha Roses in some locations, or the native Texas Pixy- 
Rose (Rosa foliolosa ), which is very hardy and quite low-growing, 
gives a decidedly different note. Certain of the Cacti, Aloes, Agaves 
and Yucca, also, may be used sparingly, for the chief attraction 
of a Rock Garden is the clever combination of ruggedness with 
rustic daintiness. Therefore, creeping plants, those of dwarf height 
and small, even tiny, blossoms should be used. 

Rock gardening is such a new phase in dry sections that it has 
not yet been tried sufficiently to offer more than these few general 
suggestions for trial. Since in the Southwest the question is "not 
what plants will survive the cold, but Summer’s heat and drought, 
only experience with different genera over a period of several years 
can enable one to say just what will and will not prove satisfactory 
in this respect. Also, it must be constantly remembered that there 
are certain plants and shrubs for Rock Gardens that require a spe¬ 
cial soil—some acid, others acid of less degree, while the greater 
number revel in lime.” Follow this wise counsel, it is urged, and 
plan to experiment judiciously, if one wishes a conventional rock 
garden in which only choice, small treasures may have especial cul¬ 
ture and attention. 


PLANTS FOR HILLSIDES 


Agaves 

Aloes 

Alyssum 

Alliums 

Astilbe 

Bluebonnets 

(Lupinus texensis) 

Bulbs 
Cacti 
Candytuft 
Dwarf varieties of 
many plants 
Erythronium 

(Dog-toothed violet) 
Gila Rubra (Tree cypress) 


(Texas Plume) 

Iris (low growing) 

Ivy—English and Nepeta 
hederacea 

Jonquils (Daffodils) 
Lantana 
Nasturtiums 
Climbing 
Bush 
Portulaca 
Penstemon 
Petunias 
Phlox 
Plumbago 


Poppies 

Roses (low and 
trailing varieties) 
Sedums 
Sempervivums 
Santolina 
Salvias 

Sweet William 
Trailing 
Plants 
Thyme 
Tulips 
Verbenas 
Yucca 



Where the Sun 


T^arely Shines 


f~?o often the question is asked, “What will grow in 
j the shade?” that many gardeners must be keenly 
interested in the answer to this special query. 

While there are comparatively few plants that will bloom in the 
deep shade, where the sun does not penetrate, yet there are a great 
many that will live only in partial shade. The semi-shade is a gold 
mine of delight for many a Southwestern gardener, especially that 
spot which receives approximately three hours, only, of sunlight 
in the morning, for there one may grow successfully certain rare 
flowers, and also many that have been declared unable to be grown 
in this section. 


Particularly fortunate are those whose soil has been nourished 
by falling oak leaves, which add those necessary chemical qualities 
that a great group of plants require. All those cherished, longed- 
for flowers that have been marked “special care,” will make this 
sheltered spot a delight—Columbine, Canterbury Bells, the various 
Erytbronium (Dogtoothed) and Wild Violets, Perennial Phlox, 
Lobelia cardinalis, Foxglove (or Digitalis ), Hypericum , those Iris 
of delicate shades, as well as Iris cristata and Iris pseudacorus , 
Gebera, Bleeding Heart and Dutchman’s Breeches (the other var¬ 
iety of Dicentra ), Scabiosa and the delicate Spring Beauty ( Clay - 
tonia virginiana ) . . . Even the lovely Windflower or Japanese 
Anemone, and the other Anemones, and the Hardy Hydrangeas 
have shown their appreciation of such an abiding place, so greatly 
to their liking. 

Where there is a bit more of the morning sun at the edge of a 


Semi-Shade 

Loving 

Plants 


227 



228 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


At the Edge 
of the 
Wooded 
Place 


Flowering 
Shrubs 
That Will 
Grow in 
Semi-shade 


Most 

Dependable 
Low Plants 


woody place, Hemerocallis (or "Lemon Lilies”) bloom well. Cri- 
nums; the Guernsey or Spider Lily; the Lilium Speciosum, Rubrum 
and Melpomene , and the Lilium Henryi; the red Habranthus; 
Calla Lilies; Funkias ( Hostia , or Plantain Lilies) and Tulips are 
some others of the Bulb and Lily family that enjoy the semi-shade. 
Early flowering bulbs, too, will flourish when planted under de¬ 
ciduous trees and shrubs, for their blossom-period is gone before 
the leaves mature. 

Of the flowering shrubs, Abelias, the Viburnums, several of the 
Philadelphus, Eleagnus, Jasmines, Spirea, Forsythia, Weigelia are 
some which will blossom well; while Mahonia goes more to leaf 
and the Nandina’s berries are less brilliant than where there is more 
sun. Another interesting fact about those groups of plants, of 
which Nandina and Gaillardias are representative, is that contrary 
to the general belief that sometimes these plants, just as a matter 
of freakishness, develop deeper tones of red than at others, there 
seems to be no question that sandy, acid soil produces more glori¬ 
ously-colored specimens, while clay soils that are highly alkaline 
give the green, with very faint tinges (if any at all) of red. 

Coralberries, Hardy Asters, Sedums, Sweet William and Pbysos- 
tegia virginiana (False Dragonhead) are among the most depend¬ 
able of the lower-growing plants. The Ajuga, or Bugle Weed, 
makes a lovely carpet, yet the Myrtle ( Vinca minor ) with its 
small blue flowers, and the striped-leaf variety (Vinca minor 
variegata) , are perhaps the most dependable low plants. They are 
possibly the most universally grown. Phlox subulata, moss or 
mountain pink, blooms profusely; P. divaricata will thrive 
in neutral to semi-acid soil. Sweet Alyssum, with the Dogtoothed 
Violets and the Habranthus, are among the few which will flourish 
in heavy shade. Yet there is another ground cover that is much 
more delicate, known by many names, some of which are Ground 
Ivy, Creeping Charlie, etc. (Nepeta hederacea) , which also spreads 
so rapidly that it takes watchful care to keep it within bounds. 

Mascarene ("Japanese”) grass (Z oysia tenuifolia; or M. densi- 
folta, low and M. Japonica spicata, 15 .inches) as a ground cover 


WHERE THE SUN RARELY SHINES 


229 


in shade has the unique quality of producing blue flower-spikes 
from late summer until frost. 

In general one may say that practically all plants that are grown 
in other sections of the country will thrive in the semi-shade in 
the Southwest, if their required soil conditions are supplied. In 
fact, practically all of the plants, even some of the Roses, will give 
better results if shaded from the strong afternoon sun. Yet care 
must be taken to avoid planting under those shrubs and trees that 
have a network of roots near the surface, such as Ligustrums and 
Elms, for these consume the food in the soil, being gross feeders. 

IN SEMI-SHADE 

.. . at the edge of planting . .. 


Shrubs 

Abelia 

Althea 

Black Haw (Viburnum) 

Btackberry 

Broom (genista) 

Buckeye (aesculus octandra) 
Coralberry 

Crataegus (Red Haw) 
Dogwood (Cor mis) 

Eleagnus 

Elder 

Forsythia 

Hardy Hydrangea 

Ilex rotundafolia 

Jasmines (in variety) 

Mahonia bealei 

Nandina 

Pineapple guava (in the 
south) 

Redbud (Circis) 

Rose mallow (Pavonia) 
Viburnums (in variety) 
Weigelia 

Wild Plum (Malus) 


Plants 

Ageratum 
Ajuga (Bugleweed) 

(Green . . . variagata) 
Anemone (Windflower) 
Asters (Michaelmas daisies) 
Balsam 

Bleeding Heart 
Bush Clever 
Calla Lilies 

Callirhoe (Wine Cup) 
Canterbury Bells 
Claytonia (Spring Beauty) 
Columbine (Aquilegia) 
Crinum 


Datura 

Dutchman’s Breeches 
Erigeron 
Erythronium 
Ferns 

Funkia (Hostia, Plantain) 

Foxglove (digitalis) 

Gaillardias 

Gerbera 

Godetia 

Habranthus 

Guernsey Lily 

Hemerocallis 

Iris 

Lilies 

Lobelia 

Myrtle (Vinca) 

Oxalis 

Phlox (annual and 
perennial) 

Plumbago 

Sedums 

Sweet Alyssum 
Snapdragons 
T radescantia 
Tulips 



Great 
Variety 
of Choice 



Universal 
Appeal 
of Water 


Charm of 
a Garden 
Enhanced 
by Water 


h 

Pools for "Delight 

ong ago the Orientals realized that the green garden 
that so rested their eyes and senses was immeasurably enhanced in 
beauty by the inclusion of water in some manner. Dwellers in all 
semi-arid countries know this deep longing for limpid pools and 
strive to obtain them. Following a subtle secret learned by clever 
imitators of Nature’s handiwork in creating the illusion of cool 
comfort, the successful garden in semi-arid regions retains a bit 
of the austerity of the desert in its expense of open green lawn 
and in the strong emphasis placed on formalized design, geometric 
line and pattern, and in concentration of masses—yet it features 
that which is quite foreign to the general landscape, streams and 
pools of water, which because of scarcity become a luxury keenly 
desired. 

So the young civilization in the Southwest, having wrested a 
home from the prairie, is following in the footsteps of past ages 
in beginning to seek methods to secure for themselves this cher¬ 
ished possession, and the attempt to overcome and utilize those 
limitations set by Nature offers a most fascinating challenge to 
them. 

The lure of ever so tiny a bit of water, for reflection if nothing 
more, is always powerful. Everyone loves water, and wherever there 
is a pool, large or small, or a babbling stream, are attracted at 
once to its banks. Even the tiniest, shallow, irregular-shaped bird 
bath that may look like a huge curled waterlily leaf, giving a dupli¬ 
cate image of a nodding, scarlet Poppy or a single perfect Rose, 
brings joy to the soul of the beholder. Therefore, to say that one’s 
garden will be infinitely more attractive by the skillful inclusion 
of a pool is true, yet the possibility or probability of being able to 
do so may be questioned. 



230 


POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


231 


Anyone may have a pool. This is a broad statement, yet on most 
peoples* property there is a spot where a tub may be sunk, or a 
small excavation be made and lined, waterproof. On a city lot, 
averaging 50x150 feet, if one assigns no more than 15x20 feet 
to the garden spot, a corner, an end or the center of this may be 
dug for a pool. Even the ice-box drip may be converted into an 
economical pool! On this limited, perhaps the smallest, space one 
may assign to a comprehensive garden, there are almost unlimited 
possibilities for a great variety of plants, and a succession of bloom 
over which to rejoice. 

Sometimes there is too shady a spot, under trees, along a wall or 
beside the house, to grow grass or most plants. Dig this spot out, 
it is suggested, with irregular outlines. Vary the slope of the sides 
of it toward a three-feet depth. Then prepare cement and sand, 
and pour in a layer of two to three inches thick. Mould it to the 
lines or contours desired, and lay in a piece of wire-netting (or 
some other reinforcing, tying material), and pour on two to three 
inches more of concrete; in which one may embed, while soft, 
boulders or field-stones, the better to simulate nature in preparing 
an informal pool. 

Let this "set” for three or four days. Then fill with water, and 
allow it to remain for several days. After this, drain off all the 
water (because there is generally something in fresh cement chemi¬ 
cally bad for both fish and plants which the first filling and stand 
of water carries off). It may then be safely filled for use. 

Planting —If one wishes to grow aquatic plants, soil must be 
prepared. If the plants are to be grown directly in the pool (not 
in pots or tubs), put in six inches of manure at the bottom, then 
a layer of ten inches of topsoil. Plant the tubers directly in this 
and cover with four to six inches of sand, or fine gravel, to keep 
that transparency in the water necessary to enable one to see the 
darting fish, which are so essential aside from their beauty, for 
they feed on mosquito larvae. 

In preparing the pool, if one has a tiny one, it may be refilled 


Plan for 
a Pool 


Details of 
Construction 


Special 
Treatment 
of Fish or 
Plants Used 


Soil Prep¬ 
aration for 
Aquatic 
Plants 


232 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Suggestions 

i° r 

Drainage 


Place Where 
Least 

Evaporation 


Shady 
Pools Are 
Mirrors 


Semi-shade 

Planting 


Keep to 
Scale in 
General 
Scheme 


For 

Informality 


and drained with the garden hose. But, if it is somewhat larger, 
it is wisest to provide a drain-pipe within the concrete bed, by 
which the water may escape. This method of drainage may be of 
the simplest—by allowing it to enter the sewerage directly; or it 
may be converted by pipes to be utilized in watering certain other 
parts of the garden. Or, what may be most elaborate, a series of 
overflowing, shallow pools may be arranged, terraced one a bit 
above the other with the lowest spilling over to create a marsh, or 
bog. This is especially adapted to some grounds, though in growing 
aquatic plants, it is usually best to avoid running water. 

Generally speaking, however, water is too precious to admit of 
this extravagant use. With hot summer skies, one is wise to place 
a pool where it will suffer least from evaporation. 

In a shaded or semi-shaded spot Waterlilies, however, usually 
will not flourish, though Water-Hyacinths may, or Cat-tails and 
other non-flowering aquatics. Be content, generally, to have a very 
shady pool merely be a mirror, with darting gold fish for color; 
and, if you are not going to grow aquatic plants in it, put only a 
layer of gravel on the bed of it. This will make it seem more 
like Nature’s handiwork than man’s. 

There are many blooming plants that do well in shade, or semi¬ 
shade (see page 227), which, if placed to overhang, or at a point 
where their image may be reflected, at once become an integral 
part of an exquisite composition. Pools that mirror green things, 
only, are restful, yet those that reflect other colors, too, in pastel 
or in vivid shades, have an irresistible charm. 

In designing that feast for one’s senses, the pool, it is of greatest 
importance to keep it to scale with the property and buildings. Do 
not forget how essential is proportion. It, too, should conform to 
the general plan and follow the broad scheme of planting in rela¬ 
tion to the architecture of the buildings. It too should emphasize 
formality or informality of design by its shape, size, and setting. 

Where informality is desired, always place the pool where it is 
screened and secluded, never in the center of the garden. Its most 
effective combination is at the foot of a slope, a hillside, or beneath 




POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


233 


an overhanging ledge. When one has level ground to deal with, 
artificial slopes and ledges, even a miniature rugged hillside (see 
page 222) may be effected by adding a few stones and a little 
more earth to that surplus dirt taken from the excavation of the 
pool. Irregularity of outline, both in the contour of the pool and 
in the borders of shrubs and flowers, demonstrate that level ground 
and straight lines never make as interesting an informal garden 
as undulating irregularity. 

A natural, or man-made rocky ledge, or barren slope, is the ideal 
spot on which to use one’s imagination in an effort to capture that 
holiday spirit of Nature—alluring informality. Trailing vines over¬ 
hanging a pool are always enchanting. Blue or rose Morning Glories, 
or Golden Oenotheras (Evening Primrose) grown from the ledge 
above, droop in panicles of green, studded with color. 

As has often been observed invariably a pool draws one to its 
very edge in the hopes of being able to peep over and down into 
the limpid depths. So, where the reflection is loveliest, what fun it 
is to be able to step out over the water on a large, flat stone! From 
this natural vantage point, one can enjoy to the fullest the beauty 
of the scene. How clever is that artist-gardener who, with skillful 
artifice, reproduces all those chief attractions that one finds in 
Nature’s scenic loveliness! 

What is more graceful than a weeping willow dipping into a 
sheltered pool! Or what exotic beauty more appealing than the 
waxen perfection of a Water Lily! 

Yet Water Lilies must have an abundance of sunlight... at least 
four or five hours of the direct rays upon them, preferably in the 
middle of the day. Of these there are two kinds, the hardy and the 
tropical. The hardy kinds do not have to be disturbed after the 
original planting except to insure large blossoms, thin out their 
too luxuriant root-growth, provided care is taken that their roots 
do not freeze in severe weather. A covering of eight or ten inches 
of water above the surface of the soil, generally gives them suf¬ 
ficient protection. Although in extreme conditions a topcovering 
of boughs and leaves, held down with wire netting, may be loosely 


Over¬ 

hanging 

Ledges 


Naturalistic 

Effects 


Water 

Lilies 


Care in 
Winter 


234 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Remove 
Oak Leaves 


Tropical 
Water Lilies 


The Two 

Chief 

Varieties 


How to Plant 
Water Lilies 


put over planks that have been put across the pool, taking care 
that the oxygen of the circulating air is not cut off. 

As oak leaves often contain an acid and tannin bad for aquatic 
plants, it is best never to cover with these. Also see that none of 
these are ever allowed to remain in the water. 

Tropical Lilies are natives of the hot countries—Africa, South 
America and Australia—where they grow in profusion. They are 
generally too delicate to survive even the mildest winters, and not 
being expensive, are too much trouble to attempt to keep, unless 
on has a very large indoor pool. Even then, it is usually more satis¬ 
factory to purchase new young plants rather than try to handle 
the mature old ones. Their spread is slightly greater than the hardy 
varieties (which require a radius of at least three feet of space for 
each plant). They are so lovely, standing many inches above the 
water on their stiff stalks, it would be a decided deprivation not to 
plan to include at least one in every watergarden. Their range of 
colors are exquisite—blues, pinks, white, reds and yellows, of wider 
choice than the hardy varieties, although these latter include all 
colors except blue. 

Where the temperature is about 80 degrees Fahrenheit and there 
is full sunshine, the day-blooming tropical Water Lilies remain 
open between seven in the morning and five or six in the after¬ 
noon, while the rarer night-bloomers open about eight in the 
evening, remaiing lovely until the middle of the following morn¬ 
ing. When it is cloudy, or cooler and grey, often these two varie¬ 
ties reverse their usual habits. It .is intensely interesting to note that 
both the temperature and the amount of sunlight have such defi¬ 
nite, material effects on these more tender Lilies. 

The initial planting of all Water Lilies may be made directly 
into the pool, when one has placed on the floor of it the layers of 
earth to receive them, leaving at least twelve to fourteen inches 
of water above the soil, which in turn should have a depth of 
at least sixteen to eighteen inches. Or they may be put in large 
earthen pots or wooden tubs, usually two to three feet in diame¬ 
ter, planted under water (not outside and submerged afterward). 



POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


23* 


This latter process enables one to transplant or divide them, 
especially when the pool is large, easier than when not thus re¬ 
stricted. In dividing roots, there are two types of growth; one, 
like bulbs, forms into multiple “crowns” (which can be pulled 
apart); the other sends out runners or creeping root-stalks, which 
should be severed by a slanting, clean cut. If the Lilies seem to pro¬ 
duce fewer flowers than expected, often the reason is they are 
planted too deep, or there is too much nitrogen in the soil. They 
should be planted with the “crowns” just below the surface of the 
soil. 

If one wishes to grow several types of aquatics in and around 
the pool, the habits of each of these plants should be carefully 
considered, for some like full sun, some require semi-shade, and 
each likes a particular depth of water above its roots. In fashioning 
the pool, this latter requirement may be provided for by the con¬ 
tour of the slope of the sides being formed into steps. Sometimes 
a large, flat-topped stone makes an ideal, natural step, on which to 
place the wooden container in which the plant is to grow (for the 
use of metal, particularly copper, is never advised in a pool, because 
of the chemical reactions). Smaller stones encircling the container 
give a further appearance of naturalness. 

Informal pools admit of an infinite number of varying meth¬ 
ods of treatment. In direct contrast, garden pools adjacent to cer¬ 
tain architectural styles of buildings are required to have geometri¬ 
cal, formal outlines. Rectangular, eliptic, oval, round, triangular, 
in fact any precise, mathematically correct shape should be used 
in connection with such special types of dwellings as a Spanish 
patio, an Italian villa, a French chateau or an English manor house. 
A suggested proportion for a rectangular pool is one whose width 
is two-thirds its length. This placed on the lowest level of the 
grounds (always the ideal place for water) may have a “Prim¬ 
rose path” leading down to it, or it may be near the end of a 
shrub-bordered expanse of lawn, broken by the regular lines of a 
few, effectively featured, specimen plants. 


Other Types 
of Aquatic 
Plants 


Contour and 
Design of 
Pools 


236 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


The Most 
Appropriate 
Setting for 
a Pool 


The most artistic selection possible for the pool is in a semi- 
secluded green spot, giving one a thrill of delight on the unex¬ 
pected discovery of it. The gleam of the white, birch-like bark of 
the sycamore and some of the cottonwoods against the deep green 
of cedars lures one toward the spot where their mirrored image 
shows doubly beautiful .in the waters of a pool. Reflections of 
green rather than the harsher lines of buildings are always much 
more pleasing. Variabilities of texture, height and shape of shrubs 
and trees, relieved by contrasts of well-placed color-tones, give one 
continual joy. This—the appropriate setting for a pool—enables 
it to fulfill .its greatest possibilities. 


TO REMOVE SCUM FROM POOLS 

(not injurious to fish) 

Dissolve one-half grain weight of potassium permanganate to each gallon 
of water in the pool, in a bucket or tub of water. 

Put solution into the pool, from different spots, a small amount at each 
spot. 

Will cloud the water of the pool, but clears in a day or two. 

Too much chemical turns the water pink, but this is not harmful to water 
plants or fish. 









Dhe Semi-Dry (garden 


o make a garden fair there must be water—plenty of 
water. So everyone has always thought. Greedily thirsty 
are most of the members of the plant world, yet, bend 
low and hear an amazing discovery! An almost dry sum¬ 
mer garden, with a surprising wealth of blossoms, may be yours 
for the making! It matters little whether one has a rocky hillside 
or a bit of level ground, whether the soil is rich, poor, or neutral. 
Even the intensity of the sun has been braved by an incredible 
number of gay, sturdy garden denizens, some of which are old 
favorites, while others can be said to have scarcely shed the im¬ 
prints of the wilds. 

During the great drought of 1930 gardens everywhere suffered. 
It was truly a survival of the fittest among the flowers. Yet an 
astonishing number seemed not to have noticed either the heat, 
or the curtailing of moisture. They continued to blossom, despite 
all adverse conditions. It is true, however, that their Spring root- 
growth was well established by plenty of water some weeks before 
they were called upon to meet the severe test of the Summer. Yet 
it is equally true that the amount of water they received during the 
severe heat of three to four months duration was, comparatively, 
very little in most cases, and none at all in a few. 

The fern-like foliage and delicate-tinted pinky-orchid flowers 
of the Desert Willow were as unaffected as the Crape Myrtle, 
Althea, Genista (Spanish Broom), Buddle.ia and Vitex, all of which 
grow quite as tall. Poinciana, Parkinsonia, Honey Locust, Senisa, 
Grease wood (called also Creosote-Bush), Tamarix (salt cedar), 
the Mexican Elder, and the Sumacs (Rhus) have the additional 
qualification of being, with the Desert and Reed Willows, indig¬ 
enous to the Southwest. Of the good drought-resistant shrubs of 


Quantities of 
Water Not 
Always an 
Essential 


Necessary 
in Spring 


Drought- 

Resistant 

Shrubs 


237 





238 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Fall 

Shrubs 


medium height and excellent foliage, but which blossom almost 
as early in the Spring as the Red Bud, are the Forsythia, the Spirias, 
the Syringas, Pomegranates, and Mulberries. Those of our natives 
which may be used for early-flowering hedges are the many Wild 
Plums and the Spanish Buckeye. The Agarita is our own native 
Barberry, whose foliage and berries make it pleasing used as a 
specimen plant or grouped as a clump or for a hedge (though, as 
with many others of the native shrubs, it is not hardy where 
severe, freezing weather must be endured during Winter. 

The Salvias (Sage) carry the scarlet and shades of blue through¬ 
out the season. Salvia Greggii is the perennial sage brush. Salvia 
splendens is scarlet, while farinacea and Pit chert are, respectively, 
the light and the dark blue varieties. 

Artemesia (Dusty Miller) is invaluable as a blending and bind¬ 
ing color-tone for the gay garden. Its grey-green, silvery foliage 
and stems may be dried for winter bouquets, being as valuable 
in this office as is Statice though of much more density. It is beau¬ 
tiful with the prickly Eryngium ("Blue Thistle”), or with the 
tall lavender plumes of the Liatris (Blazing Star) both of which, 
when dried, retain their color for many months. 



THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


239 



Of shrub-height, though grown each year from seed, or by 
division, are the tall Cleome, the Coreopsis, the Lantana, Four 
o*Clock, Eryngium, Castor Bean, various Achilleas and Fall Asters, 
all of which, except Four o’Clocks, are native and bloom until Fall. 

At least four of our native shrubs which develop into small trees 
may be grown readily and quickly from seed. And as it happens, 
these same four very nearly blossom in succession. They are Red 
Bud, Sophora, Mimosa, and Mesquite (Acacia Julibrissin ). By 
planting the seed as soon as they are matured (in sand deep 
enough to coax the new little roots downward through it .into 
the layer of well-rotted manure and rich earth mixture, that 
should lie beneath the deep layer of sand), the little plants, kept 
moist and well-shaped, will reach the height of eight to ten 
inches the first season and may be transplanted. By the third 
year they will be nearly four feet high and are usually graceful, 
Japanese-like little shrubs, producing flowers and appearing as 
fine an ornamental plant as anyone could wish. The foliage of 
each is practically pest-free and differs widely, making a charming 
contrast in color and texture. 

Laburnum and Kolkwitzia (Beauty Bush), which are not native 
to the region, grow well, though probably are not as drought- 
resistant, may also be propagated in the same manner. 

Should one wish to keep these plants of shrub height, their habit 
of growth from the beginning should be encouraged to widen, 
rather than prune for upward tendencies. The Sophora, especially, 
sends several shoots from the original seed. None of these need be 
pinched off, for all will become stout branches. Like the Pussy- 


Shrub-like 

Annuals 

and 

Perennials 


Four Native- 
Shrubs 
From Seed 


240 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Semi-Arid 

Plants 


Flowers 
Are Blue- 
Lavender 


Willow and Pyrus japonica (Burning Bush), the Red Bud can be 
forced to bloom indoors. So the removal of the superfluous 
branches on the shrubs should be made as soon as the buds begin 
to swell. Place in water and the heat of the house will cause the 
flowers to open much sooner than those out in the open. 

With this wide choice of shrubs for screens and hedges, a varied 
background is amply provided. Against this, the blue Plumbago 
capenshy the dainty Sea-lavender (St at ice latifolia) with the deep 
blue Platycodon bells, combine delightfully with Coreopsis, 
“Apache Plume,” “Snow-on-the-Mountain,” Monarda, several va¬ 
rieties of the Datura (Jimson-weed), and the large white prickly 
poppy (Mexican Argemone alba), this latter forming an unusually 
attractive low hedge with its spiny leaves and large white flowers. 

All these thrive lustily, for they are natives. The fluffy tufts of 





THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


241 


blue Ageratum, the blue spikes of Veronica, the light violet-blue 
flowers of Nigella and the hardy Fall Asters, many of which are 
native, carry the blue-lavender tones into the late Fall, blending 
with the lovely pinky tones of the bush Morning Glories. 

Gaillardias (Indian Blanket), and Rudbeckias (native, with 
daisy-like flowers), Thunbergia (Black-eyed Susan), Helenium, 
Arctores (African Daisy), Anthemis (Marguerites), and both the 
English and the Shasta daisies, give one white and orange repre¬ 
sentatives of this family for diversification in the semi-dry garden. 
These are friendly with the taller-growing yellow Helianthemums 
(Sun Rose), the Helianthus Maximiliani (and other native Sun¬ 
flowers), and the orange Heliopsis. The Marigolds, and Lantana 
(native) have also the same intense orange-red tones. 

It seems all the fire-tones (that is, those hues of orange and red, 
varying to the blue-purples of flame) thrive in the heat of the 
sun. The range of colors of those flowering plants that seem un¬ 
affected by scorching weather are similar, too, to those that come 
with the fall season. The pastel-tones, particularly the shades of 
rose and pink, pale greens, blues, yellows and lavenders, are rare 
compared with the stronger, more vivid tones. 

Zinnias, both short and tall, the Achilleas (Yarrow), and the 
several varieties of Goldenrod (Solidago) contrast in degree, yet 
are most friendly with the more intense orange of the Wall flowers 
and the native Ascelepias tuberosa (Butterfly Milkweed). The 
brilliant red of Celosia (Cockscomb) must be placed carefully, 
though as an accent it is most valuable; while for variation the 
wide-leafed Mulleins may be used, or Baptisia (False Indigo). 

The exclamation points, one might say, are the Gladioli, which 
bloom well (though are not as tall without water); the tall spikes 
of the native purple Liatris (Blazing Star), Texas Plume ( Gila 
rubra) and the plumy Pampas Grass. 

The low White Alyssum and the vari-colored Portulaca are un¬ 
tiring in flowering. Its short bloom-stalks and tendency to develop 
compactly makes the Alyssum an admirable border or rockery 
plant, demanding very little water after the root-growth has be- 


The Fire 
Tones 


Orange 


Low- 

Growing 

Drought- 

Resistant 

Plants 


242 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Creepers 


Conserva¬ 

tion 

of Moisture 

Methods 

Suggested 


come well established in the spring. Portulaca is of more sprawly 
growth and has the advantage of not being restricted to all white 
flowers. It is very gay and makes a charming ground-cover, on a 
hillside or where grass is difficult to grow in any spot that is in 
full sun. It is flatter than the ground Myrtle (Vinca Minor) which, 
however, prefers the semi-shade, Mimosa (or creeping Sensitive- 
plant) with its fluffy, rosy-pink balls or the variety with golden 
yellow balls, and the Passion-flower’s (Passiflora coerula) heaven¬ 
ly-blue stars are contrasting climbers. They will ramble down a 
hillside or up the stems of leggy plants. The Oenotheras * (particu¬ 
larly the large yellow Missouriensis or Evening Primrose) are lovely 
among rocks or clambering over a ledge. Their habitat is limestone 
bluffs of poor soil and their pure gold cups are a delight to the eye. 
The lovely pink variety has been overshadowed by the more showy, 
taller-growing white one. 

Petunias, with a choice of gay colors, when their runners are not 
kept cut back, like to climb over obstacles, just as Verbenas do. 
The gay yellow and orange Thunbergia, that insists on growing up 
a hillside instead of down, and trailing Lantana of such hardy, 
vigorous growth will bloom profusely if the seedpods are kept cut 
to postpone maturing until late fall. 

The Honeysuckles (Loniceras ), the desert gourd and the coarser- 
textured Woodbines (orange and scarlet, and yellow Trumpet- 
Creepers) give one further choice of more adventurous climbers, 
which may be trained over a trellis to form a shady nook. 

The five-fingered Virginia Creeper, like Woodbine, grows unruly 
and rank, so requires space or constant care. 

The problem of conservation of moisture for the semi-dry gar¬ 
den may be met in several ways, foremost of which is obviously 
the selection of those plants which have been proved best qualified 
for drought and heat resistance. Mulching, or cultivating these 
will give the highest degree of satisfaction. In many cases, a thor¬ 
ough, slow drenching of the plant once a month, or once in every 
two or three weeks (dependent on the range of the temperature), 
will be quite sufficient. This moisture may be said to be blanketed- 


THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


243 


in, with a layer of straw-mulching, or grass-clippings (taking care 
that the grass has not gone to seed when cut) or possibly mulched 
with half-rotted leaf-mold, where this is available and of the cor¬ 
rect chemical combination for the soil over which it will be placed. 

If one chooses the other method, cultivating, remember it must 
be frequent. Cultivating has its advantages, for only by this method 
is free circulation of air given the plant-roots; and, where this is a 
requisite, one must cultivate, water, or face the loss of the plant. 

Another item of vital importance to insure success in a semi-dry 
garden is—the soil must not be of heavy texture. This may be 
secured by the addition of at least fifty per cent (preferably 
greater) humus (in the form of well-rotted vegetation, leaves, 
cottonseed hulls, straw, or commercial peat-moss, which is sold 
baled), (remembering that peat-moss must be thoroughly satu¬ 
rated with water before using, or it will have the opposite effect 
from that which is desired, that is, will be moisture-consuming 
rather than moisture-holding for the plant). Also, if the flower 
bed is dug out at least to a depth of eighteen inches, and the top 
soil mixed 40 per cent (preferably 60 per cent) with humus be¬ 
fore planting , and a slow soaking given the plant after placing it, 
little or no cultivation (only occasional) need be given. Generally 
these enumerated plants for a dry garden will bloom profusely, but 
the bushes are more stunted, and the blossoms are smaller than 
where more water is supplied. 

Prepare for the plants as for a cherished, welcome guest. They 
will respond generously, especially if they have been used to the 
climatic conditions and are immune to their intensities. Give them 
nearly the same growing conditions as they had in their habitat, 
with just a little more richness of food, and the reward will far 
exceed expectations. 



Soil 

Texture 

Important 



Range of 
Choice 


Propagation 



Desert Plants 


jf herever one may wish to adopt one of the desert 
Yuccas, Sotols, Agaves or Opuntias into the gen¬ 
eral scheme of planting, one finds a surprising list 
of variations from which to choose in what is usu¬ 
ally thought to be a strictly limited class of plants. Be sure, how¬ 
ever, that this type of plant fits into the plan and that they are 
truly desired and admired, for very few bear transplanting easily. 
Cactus, especially, seldom survive the second or third season. 
Many gorgeous specimens have been dug, most of which have 
died, for contrary to the popular belief, many are fully as slow 
in growth as forest trees, and as difficult to move with perma¬ 
nent success. They have as many pests and diseases and possibly 
more, than any other family of flowers. Greenhouse varieties often 
become covered with plant lice and scale, which may be con¬ 
trolled by a special spray containing denatured alcohol (the for¬ 
mula published by Desert Magazine ), while out-of-doors, even 
the sturdiest, the Opuntias, often become infested with many kinds 
of bugs and lice. The large bugs that so deface and injure them 
may be controlled by a five per cent solution of kerosene emulsion. 
Yet when Opuntias do live, their blossoms are as lovely as any 
tropical water lily. Of these there are many varieties that propagate 
easily from cuttings and other methods, some of which are most 
strange. 

The Opuntia seed pods, even, when stuck into sand while green, 
will sprout; and often small particles of the plant will become 
detached, taking root where they drop. Sometimes these are car¬ 
ried considerable distances from the parent plant by their light¬ 
ness and the buoying effect of the wind against the long spines. 


244 


DESERT PLANTS 


245 


Probably the most universally grown of all the large Cactus 
family are the modernistic-looking Opuntias, whose economic habit 
of growth has dispensed with both stem and stalk, retaining only 
the large fleshy, thorned leaves, usually the size and thickness of 
a man's hand. Even the exquisite flowers have no stem, but emerge 
from the thin edge of an upright leaf. These golden blossoms 
remind one of a Water Lily by some strange chance poised lightly 
in an extremely uncongenial environment. However, the Opun¬ 
tias are not stingy in the numbers of their blossoms or in their 
response in rapid growth to good soil conditions when given them. 
The fact that they do not demand rich soil or much moisture 
(except in Spring), does not deny their liking for it when it is 
provided. They are most adaptable to circumstances, and are very 
resourceful. 

The general impression of Cactus is that it grows best in alka¬ 
line soil and in very dry places; though, in reality, scientists tell 
us they were originally bog plants which have resourcefully 
adapted themselves to the most adverse conditions. They have been 
found flourishing in rich, decomposed plant matter (or leaf 
mould) that has lodged against trees or rocks. These latter obstruc¬ 
tions have answered a twofold purpose in supplying a soil that 
Cactus delight in having, and in keeping their roots cool by help¬ 
ing to hold what moisture there is in the ground. Therefore, in 
preparing a Cactus bed, it is wise to recognize all these facts. In 
general, Cactus will relish a soil composed of one part good, dark 
earth, to one part leaf-mold, to which is added one part large 
grained sand. 

Of strange, unusual growth is the Ocotillo, the "Manicured 
Fingers of the Desert,”—so called because the scarlet bloom- 
cluster is at the tip of and is in reality a continuation of the long, 
narrow "fingers,” which seldom appear singly—several generally 
sprawling irregularly, being of as many varying lengths as are the 
fingers on a human hand. The stiff stalks are heavily spined, and 
studded with tiny, rounded, fleshly-soft, green leaves, for a season, 
that scarcely protrude beyond the spines and cover the cane from 


Opuntia 

Cacti 


Soil Con¬ 
ditions 
Cacti Like 


246 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Others 
of the 
Cacti 


White 

Yucca 


The Red 
Yucca 


the ground to its extreme length—or to the "bloom”. The plant is 
very odd, decorative, and lends a distinct atmosphere to Spanish 
grounds. 

Others of the Cacti that may be employed for their decidedly 
individual contributions to a garden are those of the Opuntia, 
known as Tree Cactus, of which the Opuntia Aborescens possibly 
has the loveliest blossoms; the Rat-tail Cactus ( Opuntia lepto- 
caulis ), an erect bushy plant composed of greyish green stems, 
usually considerably smaller than a pencil and bristling with spines; 
or the various Ecbinocactus, great rounded heads with fairly long 
spikey thorns radiating from geometrically placed centers, the most 
common being the "Hedgehog,” the "Pin Cushion,” the "Nipple,” 
and the "Barrel” or "Water” Cactus. Of the Echinocereus family, 
probably the "Strawberry” or "Banana” Cactus, or Classen’s Cac¬ 
tus are the most ornamental, both producing shell-pink to deep 
rose-colored flowers in profusion. 

Loveliest of the White Yuccas are the filamentosa (Adams 
Needles) whose bloom stalk grows very tall, having a pyramid of 
white bells drooping from wide-spreading arms. Those which differ 
only by their lower bloom stalks are the Yucca elata, or glauca , 
and the Yucca arkansana. This group are also locally known as 
"Bear Grass”. The Spanish Dagger (Don Quixote's Lance or Yucca 
Treculeana) whose bloom stalks are considerably shorter, has wider, 
more sharply-pointed leaves and their habit of growth, instead of 
remaining grass-like near the earth, radiate in a crown from a 
single or branched, palm-like trunk. 

The "Red Yucca” ( Hesperaloe parviflora , or H. Engelmanni) 
sends up and outward, gracefully curved, arching, bloom stalks 
whose stem in addition to the pendant blossom-bells with golden 
clappers, is scarlet. Its rush-like rosette of drooping leaves, quite 
characteristic of Yuccas, have those curling white threads along 
their sword-like sides found on many of the varieties of this family 
of plants. 

The Sotol, or Dasylirion texanum , grows in a very large rosette 
of long, very slender saw-toothed leaves from which an extremely 


DESERT PLANTS 


247 


tall, sand-colored flower stalk emerges, ending in a slightly en¬ 
larged spike-head of inconspicuous, creamy-white, tiny flowers 
which attract bees from great distances. This plant is very odd, ^ ^ 

making a striking addition to the planting scheme, particularly 
adaptable to the Spanish-type house. It is peculiarly decorative 
when used judiciously. After the bloom stalk dies, the plant sends 
up several new shoots and the parent plant dies. 

This habit of reproduction is true of many of the desert plants. 

The Agaves, or Century plants (Lecheguilla and americana) which 
have much more fleshy, more upright standing, thicker spiney 
leaves and tall (sometimes twenty feet high) branching flower 
stalks, from which bell-shaped, upward-turned small flower clusters 
that grow out at right angles like opened fans, from the main stem, 
give all their life to the production of this stalk. Its flowers, too, Agaves 
are very fragrant and delightful to the bees, yet in the northern 
portion of the Southwest, generally speaking, Agaves or Aloes are 
not hardy—hence they are seldom attempted. Since it usually 
takes from fifteen to twenty years for an Agave to produce a 
flower stalk, the possible reward for nursing a plant through 
inclement weather periods is thought too hazardous. 

On the whole, decidedly the most 
satisfactory of all the desert plants 
are those that can be secured from 
reputable commercial merchants. 

On a hillside, in a corner, grouped 
or alone, any and each of these 
desert plants are effective and pic¬ 
turesque. 

To lend a tropical effect , use . . . 

Agave and Aloe 
Cacti 
Ocotillo 
Yucca 

Bambusa vulgaris 
Canna, and Caladium 
Washington filifera (Palm) 





248 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Birds 

The great value of attracting the birds other than for their 
beauty of song and flashing colors, cannot be over-estimated—their 
invaluable destruction of worms and other pests on trees, shrubs 
and other plants. 

The three essentials to attract them are to provide adequate 
water, safety from cats and small boys’ guns, and food. This latter 
is secured largely by planting berry-bearing bushes—Mulberries 
are considered by them most delectable—and the weeping tree is 
not as wide in its root-spread as the other varieties. The Virginia 
Creeper and the Blue Cedar berries are equally relished, while the 
Haws, both black and red, vie with them in popularity. The fruit 
of the Hedgehog Cactus, one of the Echinocactus family, is greatly 
enjoyed by them also. 

Some Plants That Attract Birds 


Arbor Vitae 

Dandelion 

Privet 

Asters (Michaelmas daisy) 

Elderberry 

Rubus (Brambles) 

Astilbe 

Geum 

Salix (Willow) 

Barberries 

Grape 

Saxidrage 

Blueberry 

Haws 

Sheepsorrel (Rumex) 

Buttercups 

Helianthemums 

Sumac (Rhus) 

Cedar 

Honeysuckle 

Veronica 

Chickweed (Stellaris Media) 

Ligustrum 

Vetch 

Chinaberry 

Meadow rue 

Viburnam 

Chokeberry 

Mulbery 

Virginia Creeper 

Clover 

Oaks 

Wild Cherry 

Coralberry 

Crataegus (Hawthorn) 

Oxalis 

Wild Plum 

Especially Attractive to Humming Birds 

Columbine 

Thistle 

Sweet William 

Larkspur 

(Ctrsium austrinum) 
Foxglove ( Digitalis) 

Hollyhock 

Regale Lilies 



Combating Plant Enemies 


I. Insects and Pests 

ur gardens* ultimate success does not depend 
entirely on the selection of the plant material 
best suited to the locality, nor even the prep¬ 
aration of the soil, but largely on the ability 
to recognize the danger when plants first 
show signs of being "sick”, to be familiar with the symptoms and 
to be ready to apply first aid with the necessary remedies. 

There are several distinct causes for the drooping of the leaves 
or for their slow turning from the living green to the sere yellow 
which foretells ultimate destruction of the plant, such as the 
dreaded mildew and other fungus diseases. Yet, often the real 
trouble is caused by some type of insect. When one has learned 
to recognize that effect which is caused by those insects that suck 
the very life from the leaves and stems, and the one caused by that 
group that chew the foliage to destroy it, and has become familiar 
with the remedies to be applied for each distinct kind of trouble, 
the battle is half won. 

Then there are also a number of large bugs and worms that must 
be dealt with in a different manner. Some can only be killed with 
poisoned bait, while more often cut-worms must be located and 
dug from the ground where they have hidden after a night of 
feasting. 



249 


2 50 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Leaves skeletonized, punctured or partly destroyed show attack 
by insects of the devouring or chewing kind. 

Chewing insects can only be killed by covering the plants with 
poison, for it is swallowed as they eat the foliage. Caterpillars and 
bugs are the greatest offenders of this class. The mixtures that con¬ 
tain arsenate of lead and Paris Green are most commonly used. 


Poison Spray 

A good stomach poison spray is made 
as follows: 

3 level tablespoonfuls arsenate of lead 

6 level tablespoonfuls hydrated lime 

3 gallons water. 

Make the arsenate of lead and lime into 
a paste in separate containers, then mix 
them with the remainder of the water. 


Bagworms or Tussock Moths 

(a) Spray with 

2 tablespoonfuls arsenate of lead 

1 gallon water 

(b) 1 ounce powdered arsenate of lead 

2 gallons water 

2 ounces laundry or resin fish oil 
soap, or 8 tsp. sprayoil. 


Leaves curled backward, drying up or showing brown at the 
edges .indicate the presence of insects of the sucking class. 

Sucking insects cannot be reached by stomach poisons, yet there 
are a number of materials that kill by direct contact. Nicotine 
(tobacco) is the one most generally used. When it covers the soft- 
bodied insects, like plant lice (Aphis), it is absorbed and causes 
death almost immediately. The simplest method is to use nicotine 
sprays, diluted, or combined with other materials. 

One cannot use this until the pests appear, yet an early applica¬ 
tion after they have been discovered gains control of the situation. 
(Often as early as February.) 

When the bodies of the insects are not soft and the Nicotine 
cannot penetrate, then an oil spray or soap and oil must be used 
to completely smother them, for they breathe through pores. Direct 
contact with each insect is required to entirely destroy them, there¬ 
fore, it is safer to spray once a week for several weeks, beginning 
when foliage is at height of maturity. 

Sucking insects, such as aphides or plant lice, can be controlled 
only by some material that will kill them when it comes in contact 
with them. 


COMBATTING PLANT ENEMIES 


251 



A good contact spray is: 

1 Zz tsps. 40 % nicotine sulphate 
Z\ lb. white laundry soap 
3 gals, water 

Dissolve the soap in a small quantity of 
the water, then mix all of the ingredients 
together. 

Aphides (Thrips—Aphis or 
Plant Lice) 

(Green, Red, White or Black) 


On Chrysanthemums, Salvia, Larkspurs, 
Phlox, Roses, Iris, Nasturtiums, Snapdrag¬ 
ons, etc. 

(1) 1 heaping tbs. of soap 

1 gal. water 

Vz ounce Nicotine 

Dissolve the soap in the water after it 
reaches the boiling point, then add the 
nicotine, stirring vigorously. Spray plants 
after the mixture becomes cold; or dip the 
affected parts into the mixture if very 
thickly covered. 

(2) ... Spray with quassia-chip water 
or with 

1 wineglassful parafBin 

Zz lb. soft soap 

2 gals, warm water 
(well mixed) 

Or use tobacco powder, blown on dry 
for red, green or black Aphis. 

(3) ...(Especially Roses) 

1 tbs. Fish Oil soap in little hot 
water 

2 tbs. Black Leaf 40 

3 gals, water 

May be doubled if insects are bad. 

(4) ... (Especially Iris or Roses) 

Spray with Tri-ogen 


(3) A... (on Gladioli) 

1 tsp. Paris Green 

2 lbs. brown sugar 

3 gals, water 

Apply when leaves are 6 inches high 
every day for ten days or until buds ap¬ 
pear. 

B. (Dahlias, Gladiolus, etc.) 
Spray with Pyrethrum or 
Nicotine Spray 

Red Spider and Mealy Bug 

Spray with Nicotine and soap solutions, 
if the strong spray from the hose does not 
destroy them. They particularly dislike 
water and moist conditions. 

Dusting Sulphur is also advised. 

(1) “Glue solution”—spray 

Zz lb. cheap ground glue dissolved 
in a little hot water and add 
5 gals, hot water 

Spray: and dust with Sulphur while wet. 

(2) "Dry lime of sulphur *’—spray 
2 tsps. to 1 gal. water 

(3) ... On Phlox 
Dust with sulphur 

or 

Dust with Copper-lime 


252 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Root (or Blue) Aphides, Etc. 

(1) Use strong solution of tobacco 
water. As a preventive, mix wood 
ashes into soil in which asters and 
zinnias especially are to be planted. 

(2) ... (Especialy on Asters) 

Work tobacco dust into soil at base 
of plants or apply solution (once a 
month). 

2 tbs. nitrate soda in 
2 gals, water 

Kerosene Emulsion 

Kerosene emulsion has been found most 
effective in ridding "Opuntia” of stink- 
bug. It can be used for other large bugs 
that have gathered on trees, or among 
trash, or to kill scale. This is advised dur¬ 
ing the dormant season. It will prove dan¬ 
gerous for delicate foliage. It can be used 
to control all sucking insects. 

Zi lb. whale oil (preferably soap) 

1 gallon water 

2 gallons kerosene 

Smaller Quantities 

1 ounce soap 

1 pint water 

2 pints kerosene 

Cut the soap into chips or shavings and 
dissolve in the water, while it is boiling. 
Remove the hot solution from the fire! ... 
add the kerosene very slowly, stirring con¬ 
stantly. It is important to have the solu¬ 
tion hot, as well as to agitate it thoroughly, 
while adding the kerosene. After all the 
kerosene has been added, pump the emul¬ 
sion through the nozzle for several minutes 
back into a suitable container. This will 
make a creamy emulsion that may be kept 
tightly bottled until ready to use. 

On trees or plants that are dormant, 
dilute this with five or seven parts of 
water, forming a spray containing eight 
to eleven per cent of oil. On trees or plants 
that are in leaf, one should dilute the stock 
solution with ten to fifteen parts of water. 
Soft-bodied insects are usually killed with 
a five per cent solution . . . 12^2 parts of 
water to one part of emulsion—this is the 
strength to use on Cacti. 

Kerosene emulsion should be applied on 
bright, sunny days when the wind is not 
blowing, since a considerable quantity will 
evaporate quickly and the danger to the 
plants will be reduced. 

For Stink-Bugs on Cacti 

Use Kerosene Emulsion. 


Mites 

Spray with 

1 tsp. Black Leaf 40 

I gal. water 

Greenkouse Disinfectant 

Spray with 

1 tbs. oil spray to 

3 qts. water 

SCALE INSECTS 

These should be attacked when plants 
are dormant. 

"Arsenate of lead is superior to Paris 
Green, as it does not settle so quickly in 
the spray-tank, is much more adhesive to 
the foliage, and does not burn the plants.” 
— (By permission of the Texas Agricultural 
Experiment Station, Bulletin No. 187.) 

On Magnolias, and other shrubs 
Spray freely with 

2 tbs. Lime Sulphur in 

1 gal water 

On Euonymus 
"West India” or 
"White Peach Scale” 

Spray with 

(1) Sunoco in solution 

or 

(2) 1 lb. Fish Oil Soap in 
4 *4 gals* water 

(3) As preventive spray 
... in fall to kill larvae 

1 part Sunoco to 
33 parts water 

Dilute half in mid-summer. 

Spray with strong solution of 

Sulp/yur when plant is dormant. 

Scale on Cacti 

"The customary instructions to wash 
scales from plants cannot apply to spiney 
cactus-plants; therefore other methods must 
be used. Spray with: 

1 pint of denatured alcohol 
/z pint of water 

10 drops of Black Leaf 40 (or 40% 
Nicotine Sulphate) 

"A cheap atomizer is very handy for 
spraying the plants. After one or two ap¬ 
plications of this mixture have been made, 
a few days apart, use a forceful, fine spray 
of clear water to wash off the dead scales.” 
— (Courtesy of Desert Magazine; recom¬ 
mended by E. E. Davis.) 


COMBATTING PLANT ENEMIES 


253 


ANTS 

In Flower Beds 


Water in which potato skins have been 
boiled (let stand twenty-four hours), 
poured in and over ant hills will destroy 
ants. Also, with extreme care, kerosene 
emulsion poured down the nest, or one 
heaping tablespoonful of disulphide carbon 


put into the hole (and closed in quickly 
at once by pressing earth into the opening 
with the foot) is effective. Thin rings of 
asphaltum paint surrounding the hill will 
catch and destroy all ants going in or out. 


i 1 i 


Caution 

Remember all poisons—especially va¬ 
pours—are extremely dangerous. 

Beware of Paris Green and Carbon 
Bisulplude. Take utmost care. 

1 i i 


Nesting in the Ground 

Punch hole 4 to 6 inches deep near nest. 
Pour in tablespoonful carbon bisulphide. 
Close hole with earth to keep fumes in; or 

Solution sodium cyanide, 1 oz. to 6 gals, 
water. Sprinkle ground and water in thor¬ 
oughly afterward.—U. S. Bureau Entomol¬ 
ogy. 

(2) Pour a quart of gasoline down the 
hole and plug it shut with dirt. The va¬ 
pors arising will reach every part. 

The Argentine Ant 

The Argentine ant can only be eradicated 
by killing the queen, who lays great num¬ 
bers of eggs each day. To reach her, poison 
bait (such as Antrol) must be carried to 
her by the worker-ants. 

Where large quantities of poison are 
needed, directions for preparing may be 
secured from Government Bulletins. 

(2) 1 ounce Paris Green, mixed in the 
dry form 

1 lb. brown sugar not granulated 

The ants will collect the small poisoned 
particles of sugar and carry them back to 
their nest where young and old will be 
poisoned by eating it. 

For small amounts: 

Yz tsp. of Paris Green mixed with 
8 tsp. brown sugar 

Where ants are discovered on plants it 
generally indicates the presence of lice, or 
mealy bug. These insects cannot be entirely 
destroyed until the ants are controled. 

Ants and Sow-Bugs 

Mix well and scatter 
2 parts insect-powder 
1 part powdered Borax 


POISON BAIT 
For Fill-bugs, Sow-bugs and 
Cut Worms 

1. A crumbly sweetened poison 

5 lbs. bran 

1 pint of heavy molasses, mixed 
with 

1 quart of water 

4 ounces of Paris Green 

This mixture should be moistened thor¬ 
oughly with the molasses and water, but 
not be dough-like. It should fall apart 
when pressed in the hands. Some authorities 
add the juice and grated rind of a lemon 
to the above. Others claim that orange- 
juice attracts some types of bugs particu¬ 
larly. 

This mixture should stand for several 
hours until the bran absorbs the poison. As 
it is more effective if slightly damp, it 
should be put out after the yard has been 
watered, or after a rain, in the late after¬ 
noon. Place it under low foliage, or under 
pieces of wood, or under flower pots. 

Great care should be taken to cover the 
mixture so that the birds and animals can¬ 
not get it. It should be carefully collected, 
and buried deep in the ground after it has 
gotten hard. 

Another warning . . . Remember that 
when arsenical poisoning is used, if it 
reaches many of the tender young plants 
their roots will take up the poison and be 
harmed. 

2. Pill-bugs, Sow bugs and Cut-worms 
9 parts sugar 

1 part Calcium Arsenate 

Use as No. 1, and always place under 
some object, where birds and animals will 







254 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


not be able to get at it. It is effective 
spread on potato peelings. 

3. Pill-bugs, Sow-bugs, Cutworms and 
Snails. 

A half rind of orange or grapefruit, in¬ 
verted, often serves as an effective trap for 
pill-bugs, sow bugs, cutworms and snails, 
which may then be gathered up and de¬ 
stroyed by dropping them into a bucket 
of boiling water, or water with kerosene 
in it. 

4. 1 lb. Paris Green 
25 lbs. bran 

Mixed with common molasses 

5. 5 parts meal or graham flour 
1 part Paris Green 

Just enough molasses to roll in fingers 
in small balls. Place around plants after 
watering. 

6. Crushed moth balls (or napthalene 
flakes) placed near plants and lightly cov¬ 
ered with soil is said to drive away pests. 

7. Anarol and Bait-M 

Both useful, should be put out in the 
evening after thorough watering. Best to 
spread at least twice, two weeks apart. 

8. Sulphide of Iron 

Placed in soil around plants drives away 
some insects. 

9. Several firms are offering an effi- 
ciacious deadly poison for slug — among 
them Kil-Slug. 

Slugs 

Slugs can usually be detected by the 
slimy trail they leave behind them as they 
move about the garden. They often cause 
much of the trouble attributed to sow- 
bugs. Happily the same poison-mash can 
be used for both. 

Wireworms and Grubs 

Crush all you see—and spray with nico¬ 
tine-sulphate solution to kill out. 


BORERS 

Shrub or Tree Borers 

Inject carbon bisulphide in burrows with 
medicine dropper and plug opening; or re¬ 
move branch affected. 

Iris Borers 

Spray with 

1 oz. Arsenate of lead 
1 oz. Casein 
1 gal. water 

Use as fine mist once a week—must ad¬ 
here to leaves. 

Keep the Iris leaves covered with a sul¬ 
phur dust containing lead arsenate from 
early spring until late in the summer. The 
sulphur will control the leaf spot while the 
poison will kill the little Iris borer larvae 
when they hatch from the over-wintering 
eggs. 

Iris borers rarely appear in the South¬ 
west. 

Rose Borers 

To prevent borers from entering stems 
of rose bushes keep soil well-packed on the 
roots, especially in the extremely dry 
weather, and when winds are high. 

To eradicate, cut back punctured stem 
—on an angle—past opening—burn re¬ 
moved portion. 

Apply earth (clay, grafting wax) on 
stem after pruning affected part. 

BURROWERS 
Gophers, Moles, Mice, Etc. 

Bisulphide of iron (protect birds and 
animals by throwing loose earth over where 
it has been applied), will kill burrowing 
animals. 

It is an old legend that the Castor Bean 
plants drive them away—will not remain 
in same vicinity. 


II. Disease 



EAVES dropping from the plants entirely usually show disease 
—or root trouble. 


Chlorosis (loss of green color)—when a diseased condition, rarely can 
be cured. Pull up and burn all affected plants. Spray unaffected plants 
with a copper solution (such as Bordeaux) as disease is transmitted, 
usually by an insect known as the “Six-spotted Leaf hopper.” Yellowed, or 
sickly-green to pale yellow-green foliage sometimes is an indication of lack 








COMBATTING PLANT ENEMIES 


25 5 


of sufficient nitrogen in the soil, (see chapter on Soil) or a deficiency in 
balance in the required constituents for nourishment. Gypsum , or Sulphur, 
is effective when this is the case. 

MILDEW and other fungus diseases seem to be caused largely 
by climatic conditions. It is very much better to use preventive 
measures than to wait until the plants become affected where one 
has reason to believe the disease will occur. 

This type of trouble reaches the plant from outside contact by 
means of bacteria and spores. They quickly spread over the entire 
plant after reaching some part of it. To combat this, the entire sur¬ 
face of the leaves and stems must be covered with some material 
that destroys the disease. Sulphur , in some form, is considered the 
most effective remedy, in solution or as a dusting powder. Massey 
Dust , which can be prepared at home, is extensively used. Bordeaux 
Mixture is often advised, but it has the objectionable quality of 
discoloring the foliage. 

Experts differ as to the most effective way of applying remedies, as a 
dust, or as a liquid spray. Under either method, not only the top of the 
leaves must be covered, but the under part and the stems also. 

Peat moss tends to combat lime-loving fungus matter. 


MILDEW OR RUST 

Massey Dust. .. dust dry! 

9 parts dusting sulphur 

1 part arsenate of lead 

Pomo green is Massey dust colored green 
that it may not disfigure the foliage. 

Funtrogen—A highly concentrated fun¬ 
gicide. Should be sprayed on Roses and 
other plants affected with mildew. Will 
control Blackspot; prevents rot; and elim¬ 
inates Rust, on Hollyhocks especially. 

"August Mildew”—On Crape Myr tle » 
and other plants; use Potassium Sulphide 
freely as a spray. 

Mildew on Crape Myrtle 
1 pint Oil Mulch Spray 
5 gals, water 

Zz pint formaldehyde 

On Phlox, Columbine, Snapdragon, etc.: 
Dust with superfine dusting sulphur . . . 
or spray with 

1 oz. Potassium Sulphide 

2 gals, of water 

To prevent Mildew: Avoid water on 
foliage. Water in mornings, never after 
sundown because of dew. 


Crown Gall 

On shrubs or roses no cure. Burn to save 
unaffected plants, and disinfect soil where 
sick plants were with a solution of 

2 lbs. Copper Sulphate (or Blue 
Stone ) dissolved in 
50 gallons water. 

Soak ground to depth of at least 2 ft. 

Crown Rot 

On Columbine, etc., pour on plant- 
crown and roots a solution of 1 tablet 
cororsive sublimate in 1 quart water. 

2. .. . Bulbs 

As a preventive solution before plant¬ 
ing, and to kill rot, or scab organisms— 

Soak bulbs 12 hours in solution of— 

1 oz. Corrosive Sublimate (Bichloride 
of Mercury) 

8 gallons water 

in glass or earthen, never metal, vessel. Dry 
thoroughly—then plant. 

Treat all bulbs for "Blue Mold” before 
planting (with Formaldehyde). 

Formaldehyde... solution, to sterilize. 1 
pint to 10 gallons of water. 


256 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


Root Rot 

1. Iris root-rot 

(a) This is the one dreaded disease of 
Iris—dig up, remove soft parts, 
and wash with a solution of 
Potassium Permangenate (see Mr. 
Vm. Dykes’ book on Iris). 

(b) If discovered in early stages, 
without digging up cut away 
soft parts, expose to sun, spray 
both Iris and ground with one 
tablet corrosive sublimate in one 
pint of water; allow to become 
very dry. 

(c) Two handfuls of gypsum to one 
plant, worked into soil. .. 

or 

(d) Drench ground with solution of 
one tablet of Corrosive Sublimate 
in 1 quart water (in severe 
cases 1 pint instead of 1 quart 
water) or 1 pint of Formalde¬ 
hyde to 10 gallons of water. 

Root Knot 

No cure—destroy affected plants and dis¬ 
infect soil with boiling water. If case bad, 
add Chloropicin. 


BLIGHT 

1. Lily Blight Control (especially Can- 
didum, Auratum and Tigrinum Lilies) 

Spray with— 

1 oz. Sulphide of Potassium 
3 gallons of water 

in which a little soft soap is mixed to make 
the poison adhere to the foliage. 

2. Bulb Blight Control 

Dip all bulbs that have been exposed to 
blight, especially Gladioli, in Formaldehyde 
before planting, and place in a few pieces 
of peat in the hole underneath them, tak¬ 
ing care to surround the bulb with about 
an inch layer of sand. 

3. Dahlia Blight Control 

Spray with Nicotine when the leaves be¬ 
gin to curl (in July) every ten days to 
two weeks until the blooms appear. 

Slime-molds 

The lowest group of parasites on plants 
—may be controlled by application of lime 
to raise the soil above neutral—or if case 
is bad fertilize liberally with ammonium 
sulphate, and in extreme cases add sulphur 
to the soil. 


ROSE DISEASES AND PESTS 

The more you work among Roses and try first this remedy and that for 
any trouble, once it has started, the more you are apt to recall, "To cure 
disease is not easy; to prevent it, is much more feasible.” 


MILDEW AND BLACK SPOTS 

The medicinal treatment of mildew and black-spot is the same, for both 
are fungus troubles, though widely different in character. The cause of 
mildew is a disputed question. It is as inherent in some plants as the shape 
of their leaves and the color of their blossoms. One environment will 
develop it and another won’t. 

Mildew being a fungus trouble, a fungicide is the thing to correct it. 
Most fungicides are excellent when used as dormant sprays, but discolor 
foliage too seriously to be much used after a plant has put out leaves. 
There are a few sulphur compounds that are good to use then as some 
do not burn. 

Beware of burning tender, new foliage! 

Dusts that contain sulphur are widely used for mildew. But they are 
better for beds of Roses than for Climbers, whose height and size make 
them more easily sprayed. 

For those who believe mildew comes from the ground, there are several 
good things to do to the soil to help build up in your plant a resistance to 
the disease. Potash, which develops hard wood, is good. Many successful 
growers put a liberal quantity of hardwood ashes, which contain potash, 


COMBATTING PLANT ENEMIES 


257 


around their Rose plants, especially their Climbers, every August and 
again often in early Spring. Treating the soil as well as the plants with any 
good fungicide is a good preventive measure. Plain powdered sulphur dug 
into the ground around a plant will help. 

For black-spot, just plain commercial sulphur shaken from a flour sifter 
over some Rose plants once every week or two has been known to keep 
them covered all Summer with luxuriant foliage, free from black-spot. 
Wet foliage to make dust adhere. 

All the remedies recommended for mildew are effective in control of 
black-spot on most varieties. But, as in the case of the Ramblers and mil¬ 
dew, the Perentianas, which breed black-spot, are better segregated in beds 
to themselves. 

The chief precaution which may be taken is to keep the surface of the 
ground in a Rose bed perfectly clean. Never allow old leaves or flowers or 
trash of any kind to accumulate around the plant, and keep all infected 
leaves picked off and burned. 

Some excellent suggestions are: 

a. Withhold all barnyard fertilizer and use a chemical instead until 
trouble clears up. 

b. Renew the top three inches of soil each year with fresh unin¬ 
fected earth. 

c. In May, before the disease usually presents itself, spray thor¬ 
oughly both the plants and the ground with a non-burning 
fungicide and then put on an inch or more layer of commer¬ 
cial sheep manure. This will give a fresh surface to the bed, 
provide a dust-mulch and furnish some valuable nourishment. 
Add a half cup of bonemeal, scratched in first around each 
bush, to carry Roses safely through the hot weather. 

jeownmnn 

ROSE ENEMIES 

As for the control of insects, if you add to your funcicide sprays in 
May, December and February some good nicotine compound for the suck¬ 
ing insects and arsenate of lead for the chewing kind, you will go a long 
way toward freeing your garden of an unreasonable amount of pests. 

The sucking insects, such as the Aphis, come in a variety of colors— 
red, green, white, and black. But the one that most often troubles Roses 
is green and is widely known as "Green Bug.” It saps the vitality of the 
leaves and ruins the buds. It is particularly virulent in the wet, cool weather 
of early Spring and tends to disappear of itself when the dry heat of 
Summer sets in. 

Spray with a good nicotine solution every day until the insects depart. 
To this spray may be added a soap solution composed of one tablesponful 
of fish-oil soap dissolved in boiling water and cooled before mixing. The 
soap acts as a "spreader” and makes the spray more effective (Another 
formula is 2 tablespoonfuls Black Leaf 40, 1 tablespoonful soap, to 3 
gallons water.) But the main idea is to wet all the insects thoroughly, 


258 GARDENING IN THE SOUTH AND WEST 


since they are destroyed by smothering, not by poisoning. One caution to 
observe in the addition of soap is not to use it too strong in the heat of 
the day, as it will burn tender foliage and do as much harm as the insects 
themselves. 

Never add soap to a combination spray! 

The chewing insects, caterpillars, cut-worms and the like have to be 
poisoned. Arsenate of lead, either in a spray or dust, is effective. But in a 
spray it discolors and often burns. A better suggestion for the growing 
season is to use a poison-food-compound around the base of the plant. 

Thrip (small, white, villainous creatures) start on the inside of a bud 
their sapping process, so that it is most difficult to reach them with sprays. 
The Rose turns brown around the edges and usually withers without 
opening. Thrip resemble lice and breed in open Roses, under blossoms 
left lying on the ground, and in very heavy Roses, which, due to their 
own nature or atmospheric conditions, do not open fast enough. The best 
way to prevent Thrip is to keep full-blown flowers cut off your plant, 
never allow old blossoms to fall on the ground, and to discard all those 
Rose varieties which are known to "ball” consistently. 

To conserve time and energy, kill two bugs (the sucking and chewing) 
with one spray and steer clear of fungus diseases as well by using a good 
all-around Plant Spray before any trouble starts, while it is going on, and 
after it is apparently over to safely speed the parting guest. 

III. Combination Remedies 

Much labor may be saved by combining sprays for insects and 
diseases. 


For general pest-control: mixtures that will combine: 


A— 

Lime Sulphate—Milk of Lime 
(fungicide) 

Nicotine Sulphate 
(contact-spray) 

Lead Arsenate 
(stomach poison) 


B— 

Bordeau Mixture 
(fungicide) 
Nicotine Sulphate 
(contact-spray) 
Lead Arsenate 
(stomach poison) 


It is possible also to combine—though not so effective: 


C— 

Bordeau Mixture 

Nicotine Sulphate 

Paris Green or Calcium Arsenate 


D— 

Lime Sulphate 
Nicotine Sulphate 
Calcium Arsenate 


These combinations are all that are recommended to mix well— be effec¬ 
tive—and avoid undesirable chemical reactions, which might result from 
indiscriminate combinations. 

Unless large quantities are to be used—advise purchase of commercially 
prepared combination sprays. 


COMBATTING PLANT ENEMIES 


259 



IV. The Well-Stocked Garden Medicine Chest 


includes 


As a spray for disease; either 
Chemical hydrated lime 
or 

Powdered Copper Sulphate 
Dosage for each: 

4 ozs. of each in 
3 gallons water 

To prevent leaf and plant destruction 
—etherized combination sprays: 

Lead arsenate, to kill chewing insects, 
spray freely. 

Nicotine 

Bordeaux Mixture 
Paris Green 
Corrosive Sublimate 


Sulphur—Lead Arsenate (or stainless va¬ 
riety) to control rust, use when the air is 
quiet and little moisture is on the foliage; 
ratio 85-15 or 90-10; and temperature is 
low, or will burn. 

Gypsum (for yellow leaves) 

Pyrethrum 

Black Leaf 40 (or preparations contain¬ 
ing at least 40% Nicotine Sulphate) 

Sunoco (or any proprietaary material in 
the form of an oil emulsion) 

Vigoro (or selected fertilizer manufac¬ 
tured and sold by the large companies) 
Kerosene Emulsion 


Table of Comparative Weights and Measures 


Liquid Measures 
1 6 oz. equals 1 pint 
2 pints equal 1 quart 
1 pint equals 473.11 cc. 

1 oz. equals 30.0 cc 
1 tsp. equals 4.0 cc. 


Dry Weights 

28.4 gm. equals 1 oz. 

16 oz. equals 1 lb. 

1 lb. equals 1 pint 


For valuable information on the control of pests, and remedies 
for plants, trees, etc., secure Texas Agricultural Bulletin No. 187, 
and U. S. Farmers Bulletin No. 1495, remembering that the exact 
amount of money (stamps not accepted) MUST accompany all 
requests for bulletins where a sum is charged. 





















260 

















































Bibliography 


We are indebted and give thanks to the authors of the following books 
that have been used to verify much of the material that has been pre¬ 
sented— 

Gray’s Botany. 

Westcourt "Beautifying the Home Grounds.” Bulletin 126 C. I. A. 
(Texas.) 

Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture. 

Curtis’ Botanical Magazine. 

Schulz "Texas Wild Flowers”. 

Fletcher, "Soil”. 

United States and States’ Department of Agriculture, Bulletins and 
other publications. 

Garden Dictionary by Norman Taylor. 

Garden Magic by Roy E. Biles. (Cincinnati, Ohio.) 

As several most valuable books have been written, giving detailed in¬ 
formation on certain types of plants, used for special localities, no effort 
has been made to duplicate the information they contain, especially— 

Bessie Buxton— The Window Garden (Orange Judd) and Begonias 
(Hale, Cushman & Flint). 

Sarah Coombs —South African Plants (Stokes). 

Ellen D. Schulz’s Cactus Culture (Orange Judd, New York) and Texas 
Wild flowers (Laidlaw). Also, The Garden Book for Houston, all of which 
present adequate, specific data about Texas plants. 

Detailed information regarding Garden Clubs, their organization, by¬ 
laws, subjects for programs, flower shows and various items of interest 
can be secured from— 

Judging Amateur Flower Shows by Sarah V. Combs (Natl. Council 
of State Garden Clubs, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New v ork, N. Y.) 

Flower Shows and How to Stage Them by Adele S. Fisher (120 E. 
39th St., New York, N. Y.). 

A Garden Handbook , by Fae Huttenlocker (Meredith, Des Moines, 
Iowa). 


261 



INDEX 


SYMBOLS—Used throughout the book. 

♦Indicates native to the Southwest, especially to Texas 

ft. . . . feet in. . . . inches B. . . . berries 

fls. . . . flowers fr. . . . fruit P. . . . plants 

Ivs. . . . leaves i.e. . . . that is S. . . . seed 

prop. . . . propagate var. . . . variety 

Page numbers shown in parenthesis indicate that specific information or description is 

contained thereon. 


Abelia, 64, 73, 105, 212, 213 
Acacia, 32, 36, 43, 55, 56, 60 
Farnesiana (Huisache) 36, (57) 
Julibrissinin (Mesquite), 57, 60 
Rose (Robinia hispida), 32, (50), 61 
Acalpha (Chenile Plant), 53 
Achillea plipendula, 82, (87), 239, 241 
.. A. millifolium, 83, 119, Ulus., 120 
.. A. millifolium, 83, 119; 

Ulus., 120 
Acid Bed, 13, 70 

Acid-loving Plants, 21, (68-70), 74 
Acid Soil, 12, 13, 69, 74 
Acid Water (formula), 14 
Adenophora (Ladybell), Potanini, 83 
Acuba japonica, 43 
Adobe soil, 6 

Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile), 157, 
162 

Agarita, see Berberis 
Agaves, 34, 105, 226, 244 
Ageratum (Eupatorium), 79, 84, (87), 
101, 105, 126, 127, 128, 211, 248 


Ajuga (Bugle Weed), 228 
Alder, 43 

Algerita, see Berberis 
Alkaline soil, 7, 13 
Allamanda, 53 

Allium, varieties, 118, 148, (149), 158, 
225 

Almond, 72 
Aloes, 105, 226, 246 
Althea, 33, (47), 61, 105, 121, 131, 
211, 212, 237 

Alyssum (Sweet), 79, 80, 96, 101, 105, 
124, 126, 127, 211, 212, 225, 228 
Amaryllis, 154, 157, (161), 212 
Culture, 161 

Ampelopsis heptaphylla, 109 
Amelanchier canadensis (Shad Bush), 
85 

Amsonia, (87) 

Amyris (Torchwood), 55 
Anacahuite (Wild Olive), 55 
Anacua, 55 
Andromeda, 68, 70 


262 








INDEX 


263 


Anchusa, 83, 126 
Androstephium coerulurum , 149 
(Wild Hyacinth) 

Anemone, (143), 148 

japonica (Wind Flower), 136, 227 
St. Bridges, 143 
decapitala, 149 
Annuals 

Directions for planting, 123 to 128 
Antignon, 79, 105, 106, 108, 134, 212, 
214; (Queen’s Wreath), (Mexican 
Love Vine) 

Anthemis tinctoria, 85, 241 
(Golden Marguerites) 

Apache Plume, 41 
Apple, 121 

Aquilegia, 77, 80, 82, 83, 128, 209, 
211,227 

Colorado state flower, illus., title 
page 

Aquatic Plants, 230, 236 
Arbor Vitae, 32, 34, 74, 133 
Arctotis, 126, 127, 241 
African Daisy 
Arcajnela, 55 

Argemone (Prickly Poppy), 105, 213, 
illus., 240 

Arnold Arboratum, 29 
Aronia, 43 

Artemesia, 51, 87, 118, 136, 215, 238 
Artocarpa (Carab), 47 
Asdepias, Butterfly Weed, 117, (87), 
241 

Aspen, 60 
Astilbe, 225 
Asters, 100 

Michaelmas Daisies, 79, 82, 84, 87, 
105, 136, 209, 211, 228, 239, 241 
Ash (Fraxinus americana), 59 
"Avacado” (Alligator Pear), Persea, 54 
Azaleas, 21, 31, 34, 47, 59, 68, 70, 74 

Baby’s Breath, see Gypsophila 
Bachelor Button, Gomphrena 
Bachelor Button, see Centaurea 
Balloon Vine, 107, 109 
Balsam Apple, 107, 108 
Balsam, Impatiens, 126 
Bamboo, 105 
Banana, 55, 105 

Baptisia, australis, 48, 73, 83, (87), 241 
Baukina (Orchid Tree), 56 
Beauty Bern', see Callicarpa 
Begonia, 55, 92 
Berberis 

trifoliata (Agarita), 4l, 64, 113, 121, 

212 , 238 


Betony, 148 

Bignonia, 55, 73, 74, 108, 109 
Bird of Paradise, see Poinciana 
Birds, 248 

Black Haw, 36, 39, 72, 73, illus., 34 
Black Walnut, 28 
Blueberry, 68, 70 
Bluebonnet, see Lupinus 
Blue-eyed Grass, (150), 211, 219 
Blue Lace Flower, Didiscus, 127 
Blue Thistle, see Eryngium 
"Bleeding Heart,” see Dicentra 
"Bois d’Arc,” 47 
Osage Orange, Mock Orange 
Boltonia, (87) 

Bougainvillea, 53, 105 
Box, 64 

Bridwell, W. A., quoted. 111 
"Bridal Wreath,” see Spirea 
Broom 

Genista, 33, 36, 73, 78, 137, 237 
Cytisus, 121 
Buckeye, 60, 215, 238 
Buckthorn, 47 
Buddleia, 33, 51, 61, 237 
Butterfly Bush 
Bulb Culture, 141, 148, 253 
Bush Clover, see Lepedeza 
Bush Morning Glories, see lpomoea 
Bush Cranberry, 39 
Button Bush, see Cephalanthus 
Butterfly Runner Bean, 108 
Butterfly Weed, see Asdepias 

Cactus, 31, 34, 111 to 114, 209, 226, 
246; New Mexico State Flower, 
illus., 247 

Caladium, 105, 168 
California Poppies, see Eschscolzia 
Calendula, 100, 105, 126, 135, 141, 209 
Calla, 157, 228 
Callicarpa, (44), illus., 239 
purpurea, C... americana 
Calliopsis, see Coreopsis 
Callirhoe, (89), (150), 225 
involcurata, Winecup, 89 
pedata, Poppy Mallow, 89 
Callistemon, 43 

Calycanthus (Sweet Shrub), 47 
Camassia, 83, (150), illus., 143 
Camellia, 21, 45, 68, 70, 74 
Campanula, Canterbury Bells, 78, 83 
persicifolia, 227 
Camphor, 55 

Canarybird Vine, 107, 108 
Candytuft, 99, 101, 126, 127, 226 
Canna, 21, 79, 105, 157, 168, 183 


264 


INDEX 


Canterbury Bells (wild), see 
Penstemon 

Canterbury Bells, see Campanula 
Cape Jasmine, 37, 43, 105 
Carab, 56 

Caragana, Pea Tree, 47, 61 
Caress a, 53 

Cardinal Climber, 108, 134 
Cardinal Flower, see Lobelia 
Carnation, 82, 92 

Caryopteris, Blue Spirea, see Spirea 
Cassia, 33, 47, 67, 102, 118, 209, 214 
(Senna) 

Castor Bean, 47, 62, 105, 117, 214, 239 
Catalpa, 28, 105 
Catnip, see Nepeta 
Catsclaw, 56 

Cedars, 28, 59, 60, 64, 69, 74 
Cedrus, Deodara, 62, 72 
Celestrials, 150 
Celosia (Cockscomb), 241 
Cents a, see Leucophyllum 
Centaurea, Bachelor Button, 78, 99, 
126, 127, 211 "Corn Flower” 
americana, 102 "Basket Flower” 
imperialis, 78 "Sweet Sultan” 
Cephalanthus, Button Bush or 
Button Willow, 44 
Cercis, Redbud, 28, 49, 77, 121, 134, 
213, 238, 239 
"Chaparral,” 4l, 60 
"Chapote,” 56 

"Chenile Plant” (Acalpha), 53 
Cherimoya, 56 
Cherianthus Allionii, 83 
Cherry, 121 

Cherry Laurel, (45), 61, 64 
Chilopsis, 28, 32 

Chinese Forget-me-not, 79, 99, 126, 
127; (Cynoglossum) 

Chinese Hat Plant, 53 
China Berry Tree, see Melia 
"Chinquapin,” 59 
Chinodoxia, (143), illus., 143 
Chionantbus (Fringe Tree), (48), 73 
Christmas Rose, (Heleborus n'tger), 70 
Chlorosis, 202, 254 

Chrysanthemums, 21, 74, 84, 93, 94, 
96, 97, 105, 134, 136, 137, illus., 93 
Culture, 95 
Cascade, 97 

Citrus, trifoliata, 33, 56, 64, 67, 131 
Clematis, 79, 80, 106, 108, 109, 131, 
211 

Clarkia, 100, 126 
Clatonia, 150, 227 
Cleome, 101, 105, 212, 239 


C let hr a (Adler), 44 
Climatic variations, 2, 3 
Clivia, 154 

Clove Pinks, see Dianthus 
Cobaea, scandens, 107, 108 
Cockscomb ( Celosia), 241 
Coleus, 105 
Cold Frames, 133 
Color Gardens, see Gardens 
Color Notes, 136 
Color Wheel, 215 
Columbine, see Aquilegia 
Combination Remedies, 257 
Condelia, 60 

Cone Flower, 114; (Rudbeckia), (Brau- 
neria), (Ratibida) 

Confederate Jasmine, see Jasmine 
Confederate Rose, see Hibiscus 
Continuous Bloom, 71-80 
Cooperia, 154, (158) 

Coral Bean, 107 
Coral Berry, 42, 61, 73, 80, 228 
illus., 40 

Coral Bush, 42, 54 

Coreopsis, 78, 83, 91, 100, 102, 110, 

129 

tintoria, 79, 102, 114, 126 128, 
illus., 84 

Corn Flowers, see Centaurea Cyanus 
Cornus (Dogwood), 48, 59, 68, 70, 72, 
73, 74 

Coronaria (Lychnis), 84 
Cosmos, 79, 84, 91, 92, 100, 126, 128, 
140, 212 

Klondike, 78, 83, 101, 102, 105, 126, 
209 

Cotoneaster, 37 
Cottonwood, 28, 60 

Crape (Crepe), Myrtle, 32, (47), 61, 
73, 79, 105, 130, 131, 137, 212, 
213, 237 

Crab Apple, see Flowering Crab 
Crataegus, (49), 59, 64, 72, 121, 123 
"Creeping Charley,” see Nepeta 
Crinum, 105, 136, 162, 228 
Crocker, Mrs. Persis, Quoted, 121, 123 
Crocus, (143), 182, illus., 142 
Croton, 55, 117 
Cuttings, see Propagation 
Cydonia japonica, 64, 72, 131, 240 
(Pyrus japoncia), Flowering Quince 
Cypripedium, see Lady Slipper 
Cypress (Vine), 105, 108, 211, 214 
Cypress, 56, 59, 60, 133 
Italian, 32, 59 
Arizona, 32, 59, 64, 74 
Summer or Mock, see Kochia 
Cytisus, see Broom 


INDEX 


26* 


Daffodils, see Narcissi 
Dahlias, 21, 126, 127, 131 (135), 140, 
157, (164), 212, illus., 165 
Daisy, 82, 83, 92 , 110, 114, 126, 209, 
212, 226 
English, 76, 241 
Shasta, 92, 127, 241 
African, see Arctotis 
Marguerites, 78 
Damiana, mavicana, 117 
Daphne, 73 

Datura ("Jimson Weed”), 52, 105, 
(115), 126, 212, illus., 91 
Day Lilies, see Hemerocallis 
Delphinium, 82, 92, 127 
Deutzia, 32, (37), 73, 127 
Dicentra (Bleading Heart), 22, 163, 
227, illus., 163 
Digitalis, 85, 237 
Diseases, see Plant Diseases 
Dianthus, 80, 81, 82, 126, 127, 131, 
135, 225 

Annual Pinks, 77, 79, 126 
Clove Pinks, 76, 80, 101 
Sweet William, 77, 92, 80, 127, 226, 
228 

Dockmackie (Viburnum acerifolium), 
39 

Dodecantheon, 150 

Dog-toothed Violets, see Erythronium 
Dogwood, see Cornus 
Dombiya, 53 

Drought-resistant Plants, 220 
Dry Wall, 223 
Durante re pens, 53 

Dusty Miller (Artemesia), 51, 105, 214 
Dutchman’s Pipe, 107, 108 
Deutzia, 32, 37, 73 

Dwarf Chestnut (Aesculus octandra), 
87 

Ebony, 56 

Elder, 48, 61, 121, 212, 237 
Eleagnus, 37, 43, 61, 68, 73, 228 
Elements (Chemical) 11 
Necessary to plant growth 
"Elephant Ears” (Caladium), 105, 168 
Elm, 28, 56, 59, 60, 62 
Ephedra, 113 

Eryngium, (88), 105, 211, 238, 239 
Blue Thistle, illus., 238 
Erythronium (Dog-toothed Violet), 
117, (144), 209, 225, 228 
Escholscholzia (California Poppy), 78, 
81, 92, 99, 105, 127, 209, 215, 226 
Espalier, 67 
Eucalyptus (Gum), 56 
Eupatorium, see Ageratum 


Euphorbia, (88), 112, 215, 240 
Euphorbiaceae, 110 
Euonymus, 34, 64, 65, 134 
radicans, 107, 108 

Evolvulus (White trumpet-vine), 109 
Exochorda (Pearl Bush), 48 

Fall Blooming Plants, 105 
False Indigo, see Baptisia 
Feijoa, 45 

Fern (Maidenhair), 113 

Cheilanthus tormentosa, 110 
Fertilizers, see Soil 
Feverfew, 86 

Ficus repens, (F. pumila), 107 
Ficus, 10, 28, 34 
(Fig Tree), 105 
Ficus Sycamorus, 28 
(Sycamore) 

Flowering Almond, 36, 72 
Flowering Cherry, (36), 73, 121 
Flowering Crab, 37, 67, 72 
Flowering Peach, 32, 49, 72, 212 
Flowering Plum, 49, 72, 121 
Flowering Quince, see Cydonia 
japonica 

Flowering Willows, see Desert Willow 
Four o’Clocks, 101, 105, 126, 128, 210, 
239 

Forsythia, 33, 37, 64, 72, 209 
Foxglove, see Digitalis 
Fringe Tree, see Chionanthus 
Frangipani, 53 

Forsythia, 33, 37, 64, 72, 209, 228, 238 
Fritillaria, 154 
Fountain Grass, 105 

Gaillardia (Indian Blanket), (88), 91, 
111, 114, 126, 128, 211, 228, 241 
Gall Berry (Ink Berry), 68, 70 
Galanthus (Snowdrops), (144) 
Gardenia, 37, 74 
Garden of Blue, 218 
Garden of Frangrance, 219 
Garden of Lavender, 219 
Garden of Orange, 218 
Garden of Red or Rose, 219 
Garden of White, 218 
Garden of Yellow, 218 
Gardens of special types 
Desert plants, 244 
Designed for continuous bloom, 
71-80 
Grey, 215 

Hillside (rock), 222 
Semi-dry, 237 
Semi-shade, 227 
Water, 230 


266 


INDEX 


Garden designs, 25-30 
Gay Feather, see Liatris 
Gazania, 85 
Gentian, 70, 90, 113 
Genista, see Broom 
Geranium, 53, 131 
Gerberia, 85, 227 
Gilia rubra, illus., 110 
“Gill-over-the-ground,” see Nepeta 
Ginkgo (Maidenhair Tree), 35, 59 
Gladioli, 22, 78, 141, 152, 157, 209, 
211, 241 

Glaucium (Horned Poppy), 83, 92 
Globe Amaranth, 126 
Golden Dew Drops Durante repens, 53 
Golden Trumpet, see Alamander 
Goldenrod, 105, 114, 24l 
Golden Rain Tree (Varnish Tree), 53 
Golden Glow, see Rudbeckia 
Gourds, 105, 107, 108 
Grapes, 68, 108 
Grape Hyacinth, see Muse art 
Grafting, 130 
Greasewood, 60 
Grevillea (Silk Oak), 56 
Grass, 22, 23 
Bermuda, 22 
St. Augustine, 22 
Mascarene (Japanese), 228 
Pampas, 54, 105, 241 
Ground Covers, 22, 162, 193, 224, 228, 
242 

Ground Myrtle, see Vinca Minor 
“Guernsey Lily,” see Lycoris radiata 
Gypsopbila (Baby’s Breath), 126, 127, 
212 

Gum (Eucalyptus), 56, 59, 69, 70 

Habranthus, see Lilies 
Hackberry (Bayberry Tree), 28, 45, 57, 
61, 62 

Hawthorn (Red Haw), see Crataegus 
Haw, see (Black Haw and Viburnum) 
Hedges, see Screens and Hedges 
Helenium, 79, 82, 83, 84, 209, 241 
Helianthemums, 214, 241, illus., 220 
Heliopsis, 85, 209, 241 
Heliantbus, 82, 103, 105, 209, 241 
Hemerocallis, 77, 79, 83, 136, 157, 
(162), 183, 209, 228 
Hemlock (Water), 59, 69 
Herbs, 116 

Herbs for seasoning, 120 
Medicinal Herbs, 116, 117, 119 
Henna, 42 
Hibiscus, 52, 105 
Hickory, 59, 69 
Hillside (Rock), Gardens, 222 


Hollyhocks, 78, 82, 92, 126, 127, 128, 
212; Annual, 101 

Holly (Winterberry), (’Possum Haw), 
see Ilex 

Honeysuckle, see Lonicera 
Honey Locust, 28, 49, 61 
Hop Tree, 60 
Horse Chestnut, 62 
Horst Mint, 118 

Hostia (Funkia), (Plantain Lily), 228 
How to determine time for planting 
Climatic factors, 2, 3 
Fall planting, 123, 136, l4l 
Spring planting, 124, 136 
Summer planting, 136 
How plants eat, 17 
How to plant, illus., l4l 
How to prepare flower beds, 14, 15, 

124 

Hyacinth, 76, (144), 209, 211 
Hydrangea, 22, 42, 70, 131, 227 
Hymenocallis, 164 

(“White Spider Lily”) 

Hypericum (St. Johns-Wort), 42, 227 
Huisache, see Acacia 

Ilex, (35), 62, 64, 105 
Ink, see Gallberry 
Ipomoea, 105, 108, 126, 233 

Bush Morning Glory, 44, 101, 105, 
106, 241 

Japanese Morning Glory, 77, 211 
Mexican Morning Glory, 106 
Dwarf White, 107 

Moon Vine, 106, 108, 126, 212, 214 
Iris, 22, 33, 77, 135, 152, (169), 209, 
211, 212, 227 
Culture, 170 
Dwarfs, 171 
Intermediates, 172 
Tall Bearded, 172, 173 
varieties, 173, 174 
In Arid Regions, 174 
Southern, 77, 177, 175 
Beardless, 75, 180, 227 
Ochroleuca, 175, 176 
Sib eric a, 77, 179 
Kaempferi-Japanese, 176 
Regalia, 178 
Ongocyclus, 180 
Pogocyclus, 188 
Bulbous, 77, 178, 181 

Spanish, Dutch, English, 178 
Istnene calathina (Peruvian Daffodil), 
164 

Ivy, 75 

English, 107, 108, 224 
Boston, 107, 108 


INDEX 


267 


Ixia, 154 
Ixora, 53 

Jacaranda, 57 

Jack Bean (Dolichos), 107, 108 
Jack Pine, 60 
Japanese Persimmon, 49 
Japanese Yew, 54 

Jasmine, (37), 73, 106, 108, 213, 228 
humile, 37, 209 
nudiflorum (Early), 37, 72 
Night-blooming, 74 
Star, 37, 212 
Grand Duke, 37 

Confederate (Carolina), 37, 53, 72, 
108 

Jerusalem Thorn, see Parkinsonia 

Jimson Weed, see Datura 

Jonquils, see Narcissi 

Juniperus, see Cedar, (35), 60, 74, 133 

Jujube, 57, 60 

Kalmia (Mountain Laurel), 45 
Kerria, 44, 64 
Kochia, 62, 100, 211 

(Summer or Mock Cypress) 
Kolkwitzia amabilis (Beauty Bush), 
42,73 

Kudsu Vine, 106, 108 
Kumquat, 57 

Laburnum (Golden Chain), 239 
La Coma, 56 

"Lady Slipper,” Cypripedium, 68, 70 
Landscaping principles, 27, 31 
Lantana, 52, 105, 134, 209, 239, 241 
Trailing, 52, 105, 107, 108, 211, 214, 
242 

Larkspur, 33, 92, 99, 121, 126, 128, 
211, 212, 213, 214 
Larch, 59, 

Laurel (Mountain), (45), 57, 68 
Laurel (Cherry), see Cherry Laurel 
Laurestinus, see Viburnum 
Lawsonia inermis 

"Reseda” (Henna), 42 
"Mignonette Tree” 

Legumes, 121 

Lemon Verbena, 219 

Lespedeza, pratria (Bush Clover), 

44, 61 

Leucojum (Snowflake), 76, (144), 212 
Leucophyllum texanum, 43, 64, 208, 
211,212,237 

Senesa (Barometer plant), (Wild 
Lilac) 

Liatris, panctata (Gay Fetber), 105, 
113, (89), 211, 238, 24l 


Ligustrum, 35, 61, 64, 65, 105 
Lilac (Syringa), 32, 37, 64, 72, 77 
Lilies—Bulbs, 150, 153, 209 
Auratum, 154, 155 
Henryi, 160 
Longifolium, 154 

Madonna (Lilium Candidum), 78, 
155, 157, 159 
Regale, 78, 155, 183, 212 
Speciosum, 155, 160, 212, 228 
Tigrinum, 78, 156, 159, 183 
Superbum, 155 
Martigan, 155 
Umbalatum, 159, 214 
Atamosca (Copper Lily), 158 
Guernsey Lily, see Lycoris 
Native Lilies, 158 
Habranthus, 163, 183 
Rain Lilies, see Cooperia 
Rain Lilies, see Zepnranthes 
Culture, 154, 158 
Preparation of soil, 154 
How to plant, 154, 156 
Propagation, 156, 157 
illus., 151, 153, 159, 160 
Lime, 12, 14, 16, 136 
Liriope, 162 

Lobelia (Cardinal Flower), 89, 227 
cardinalis, 89' 
splendens, 113 

Locust (Robinia), 59, 105, 121 

Honey (Sweet, Swamp, Water), 28, 
59; (Gleditsia) 

Lonicera (Honeysuckle), (37), 73, 74, 
106, 108, 121, 242 
jragrantissima, 37 
Belgian, 73, 74 
Bush, 33, 61, 72 
Maacki (Asiatic), 37 
Tartarian, 61 
Lotus, 158 
Lupine, 121 

Lupinus texensis, (110), 113, 126, 
(137). 211, 214 

(Texas Bluebonnet), 225 illus. 
Lycoris radiata, 105, 163, 183, 214, 228 
Lytheum roseum (Loosestripe), 81, 83 

Madeira vine, 105, 108 
Magnolia, 28 (35), 69, 72, (73), 74, 105 
Mahogany (Mountain), 60 
Mahonia, (36), 72, 74, 80, 228 
(Oregon Grape) 

Malvavisctis (Mallow), 37 
"Rose Mallow,” see Pavonia 
(Mallow), "Rose mallow,” see 
Pavonia 

Mangrove (Black), 54 


268 


INDEX 


Maple (Acer) 

Red Leafed, 32, 69 

Marigold, 79, 101, 102, 105, 126, 127, 
141, 214, 241 

Melia (Chinaberry), "Umbrella tree” 
45, 60, 105, 209 
Mesquite, 57, 60, 239 
(See Acacia) 

"Mexican spider-plant,” see Poinciana 
Michaelmas Daisy, see Asters 
Midge or stem rot, 96 
Mimosa, 33, 70, 239 
Mimosa (Sensitive plant), 49, 60, 107, 
109, 242 

Mint family, see Salvia 
Mistletoe, 118 

Oklahoma State Flower, Ulus., 24 
Mock Orange (Philadelphus), (89) 
Monarda, illus., 120 
purpurea, 81, 83, 240 
didyma (Bee Balm), 83 
Montbretia, 143, 154 
Moonflower, see Ipomoea 
Morea, 154 

Morning Glories, see Ipomoea 
Mountain Laurel, see Laurel 
Mugo Pine, see Pine 
Mulberries, 61, 238 

(Red, White, Russian, Weeping) 
Mullein, illus., 120, 105, 118, 215, 24l 
Muscari (Grape Hyacinth), 76, (144), 
216 

Myrtle, see Vinca 

Myrtle (Myrtus communis), 43 

Nandina, 32, 43, 64, 73, 80, 228 
Nannyberry, 39 
Narcotics, 119 

Narcissi, 33, 76, 144, (145), 146, 147, 
157, 182, 225 

Nasturtium, 101, 126, 209, 226 
Native 

Bulbs and Tubers, 149, 150 
Iris, 175 
Lilies, 158 

Plants, 110, (transplanting, 115) 
Vines, 105 

Nelumbo lutea (Lotus), 158 
Nepeta, 76, 78, 80, 108, 224, 228 
Mussini (English Catnip), 78 
New Zealand Flax, 54 

("Snake” or "Zebra” plant) 
Nicotiana, 115, 126 
Nigella ("Love-in-a-mist), 127, 241 
Nitrogen, 4, (9), 10, 11 
Night-blooming Jasmine, see Jasmine 


Oaks, 28, 59, 60, 62, 69 
Live oak, 60 
Ocotillo, 245, illus., 3 
Oenothera, 22, 91, 105, 209, 211, 233, 
234; (Evening Primrose), group, 
(88), illus., 103 
Oleander, (54), 105 

"Yellow oleander,” (55) 

Oleaster (Russian Olive), (37) 

Olive, 55 

Sweet olive, 43 
Ophiopogon japonica, 163 
Opuntia, 244, (245), 246 
Orange, 1 

Mock, see Philadelphus and Bois 
d’Arc 

"Orchid tree,” see Bauhinia , 56 
Osmanthus aquifolium, 43 
(Sweet Olive) 

"Painted leaf,” see annual Poinsettia 
Palm or Palmetto, 36, (57), 62, 105 
Pampas grass, 54, 105 
Pansies, 76, 80, 127, 209, 211, 212, 225 
Papaya, 57 105 

Parkinsonia (Retama), 33, 49, 61, 73, 
237 

aculeata (Jerusalem Thom) 

Passion Flower (Passiflora), 107, 109, 
211, 242 
Paths, 223, 224 
Paulownia, 73 

Pavonia (Rose Mallow), 42 

Pea Tree, see Caragua 

Peach (Flowering), 32, 49 

Pearl Bush, see Exochorda 

Pears, 54, 68, 72, 79, 107, 108, 121 

Peat Moss, (243) 

Pecan (Cary a), 28, 58, 60 
Penstemon (Canterbury bells), 113 
cobaea ("Beard’s Tongue”), 78, (89), 

211, grandiflora, 86 
Peony, 22, 82, 83, 166 
Pepper, 54, 92, 105 
Perennial Pea, 75, 103, 107 108 

Per sea (Avacado or Alligator Pear), 54, 
107, 108 

Persimmon, 60, 68, 107, 108 
Periwinkle (Vinca), 92, 126, 127 
Petunia, 78, 80, 99, 101, 105, 108, 124, 
126, 127, 128, 211, 212, 213, 214, 
226, 242 
pH, 10 

Philadelphus (Syringa), 38, 61, 64, 73, 

212, 238 
"Mock Orange” 


INDEX 


269 


Phlox, 225 

divariata, 77, 228 
Drummondi, 77, 80, 81, 83, (89), 

100, 111, 124, 126, 127 
Hardy 92 137 227 
Mesoleuca, 131 
pilosa, 89 
sublata, 228 

Phosphorus, 4, 8, (9), 10, 11, 21 
Photinia, 46, 61, 73 84, 133 
Phygelius (Cape Fuchsia), 86 
Physostegia (False Dragonhead), (89) 
intermedia, 86 
Virginiana, 79, 83, 211, 228 
Pine, 59, 62, 69 
"Pinyon” (Pinus cunbroicles) 

Pinks, see Dianthus 
Pitcher Plant, 68, 70 
Pittisporum, 46 
Plat anus (Sycamore), 28 
Plant Diseases 
Blight, 256 
Chlorosis, 254 
Mildew, 255 
Rot, 255, 256 
Rose Diseases, 255 
Stem-Rot (Midge), 96 
Plant Enemies 

Insects and Pests (Ants, Mites, 
Borers, etc.), 249, 254 
Scales, 244, 252 
Plants for Special Uses 

For Fall Bloom or Berries, 105 
For Fragrance, 219 
For Special Gardens of Color, 218, 
219; of Types, 222, 248 
For Tropical Effects, 53-61, 105 
Having Grey Foliage, 215 
Old Fashioned Favorites, 105, 167 
Semi-Shade, 229 
Semi-Tropical, 53-58, 60, 61 
To Attract Birds, 259 
Wheel of Bloom-Time, 210 
Plant Growth 
Control, 11, 137 
Planting Time, see Time 
Piatycodon grandiflora, 73, 240 
Plum (Flowering), 49, 68, 121 
Plum, 68, 121 

Plumbago (Larpentae and P. capensis), 
(52), 54, 78, 80, 105, 134, 211, 214, 
240 

Podocarpus, 54 

Poinciana ("Bird-of-Paradise”), 33, 38, 
54, 73, 74, 105, 211, 237 
Poinsettia havanensis, 49, 54, 211 


Pomegranate (Punica), 33, 73, 80, 131, 
238 

Poplar (Bolle’s, Carolina, Lombardy, 
Silver, White), 61, 62 
Populus Balsamifera (Sycamore), 28 
Poppies (Papaver), 78, (92), 99, 100, 
101, 124, 127, 128, 211, 212, 213, 
214 

Papaver glaucum (Tulip Poppy) 

P. orientate (Oriental Poppy) 

P. nudecaule (Iceland Poppy) 

,P. Rbaeas (Shirley Poppy) 

P. somniferum (Opium Poppy) 

Plants called "Poppies:” 

"California Poppy,” see Eschscbolzia 
"Crimson” or "Wine Cup,” Callirhoe 
"Horned or Sea Poppy,” Glaucum 
flavum, 83, 92 

"Mexican or Prickly,” Argemone, 91, 
92, 105, illus., 240 
"Mexican Tulip-poppy,” Hunne- 
ntannia, 92, 102, 105 
"Plume Poppy,” Bocconia, 92 
"Primrose Poppy,” see Oenothera 
"Water Poppy,” Hydrocleys 
nymphoides 
Pools, 230-236 
Potash, 4, (5), 10, 11 
Portulaca, 79, 109, 124, 126, 128, 211, 
226, 242, 246 
Preparation of Beds: 

Acid Beds, 13, 74 
In Clay, 16; Sand, 16 
Ideal Garden Loan, 4 
Roses, 201 
Shrubs, 141 
Trenching, 15 
Press Specimens, 109 
Primrose, see Oenothera 
Privet, 64, 105 
Propagation 

Bulbels, or Bulblets, 129, 156 
Cuttings, 63, 130, 134, 135, 137 
Divisions, 129, 239 
Flats, 122 

Grafting, Layering, 132 
Rhizomes, Runners, 129 
Seed, 122, 123, 124, 239 
Quickeners, 137 
Pruning 

Evergreens, 66 

Roses, 187, 190, 191, 193, 194, 195, 
197, 199, 200 
Shrubs 65-67 

Spring (Flowering), 58, 67 
Fall (Flowering), 58, 67 


270 


INDEX 


Prunus, 49 

augustafolia (Flowering Plum), 49 
floribunda (Crab Apple), 37 
Laurocerasus (Cherry Laurel), (45) 
Pissardi, 72 

Reverchon (Hog Plum), (44) 
serulata (Cherry), 36 
subhertella pendula (Weeping 
Cherry), (45) 

Pussy Willow (Salix discolor), 39 
Pyracantha coccinea (Laplander) 

(Burning Bush, or Firethorne), 38, 
61, 64, 68, 73, 80, 83, 212 
Pyrethrum, 86 

Queen Anne’s Lace (Daticus) (Wild 
Carrot), (90), 119, 127, 128, 212 
Queen’s Wreath, seeAntignon 

Ranunculus, 143 

Rattan Vine, 109 

Red Haw, see Crataegus 

Retama, see Par kins onia 

Redbud, see Cercis 

Red Cedar, see Juniperus 

Red Osier, see Willow (Salix) 

Remedies 

Combination, 257 
Insects and Pests, 249-254 
Diseases, 254-259 
Mildew or Rust 
Rot or Gall 
Scale or Slime 
Scum on Pools, 236 
Rhododendron, 31, 46, 59, 68 
Rhus (Sumac), 38, 61, 72, 73, 79, 105, 
212, 214, 237 

Robinia hispida (Rose Acacia), 32, 50, 
61 

Roses, 22, 105, 121, 184, 209 
Culture, 201-203 

How to recognize a good bush, 205 
Kinds of Roses, 184-200 
Bush or Bedding, (195-200) 
Climbing, 75, (187-194), 212 
Polvantha and Floribunda, 64-79, 
(194), 226 

Shrub Roses, (184-187) 

Rosa foliosa ("Pixy Rose”), 113, 
226 

Rosa Hugonis, 33, 72, 184 
Pests, Enemies and Diseases, 256-258 
Sketch and List for a Rose Garden, 
204-207 

Illustrations of Roses 
Wild Rose Spray, 1 
Moss Rose, 185 


Hybrid Sweetbriar, 192 
Climbing New Dawn, 18& 
Hugonis (Shrub), and Tree Rose, 
229 

Paul Neron, 203 
Persian Yellow, 75 
Single Hybrid Tea, Innocence, 192 
Hybrid Teas, President Hoover and 
Pernet, Ville de Paris, 196 
Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida), 32, 50, 
61 

Rose Apple, 46 

Rose Mallow, see Pavonia 

"Confederate Rose,” see Hibiscus 
Rosemary, 79 

"Rose of Sharon,” see Althea 
Rubber Plant, 105 

Rudbeckia (Coneflower), 82, 84, (90), 
92, 114, 241 
Rue, 120 
Ruellia, 54, 102 
Runner Bean, 106, 108 

Salpiglosis, 127 
Salix, see Willow 

Salvia (Sage), (52), 61, 73, 82,91, 105, 
117, 126, 140, 211, 214, 226, (238) 
azurea, 78, 83 
jarinacea, 83 
Greggii, 52 
leucantha, 79, 83, 134 
Pitcheri, 52 
Sand, 4 

Santolina, 209, 215, 225 
Sapensis (Soapberry), 58 
Sarsparilla Vine, 75, 80, 109 
Scabiosa, 78, 100, 126, 127, 226 
Scarlet Runner Bean, 105, 126, 211 
Schizanthus (Butterfly Flower), 127 
Scilla (Squills), 76, (143), 211 
Scotch Broom, see Genista, or Cystisus 
Screens and Hedges, 63, 239, 240 
Seeds (Fertility, 134), 121-137 
Sedum, 225, 228 
Sempervivums, 225 
Semi-Dry, 237 
Semi-Shade, 227 
Semi-Tropical, 53-61, 105 
Senisa, see Leucophyllum 
Senna, 118 

Sesbania (Coffee Bean Tree), 50 
Shad Bush, see Amelanchier 
Shade, Plants for, 227 
Shrimp Plant, see Beloperous 
Shrubs 

How to Plant, 141 


INDEX 


271 


How to Propagate (Seed, Cuttings, 
Grafting), 62, 130, 131, 132 
How to Use, 29, 63, 68, 191 
Pruning (Time), 58, 61-68 
Special Kinds 

Low-growing, 34; Medium, 4l 
Of Varying Heights, 34 
Perennial-like, 51 
Rose, 184-187; Semi-tropical, 53 
Tall (Small Trees), 45 
Silk Oak, see Grevillea 
Silver Lace Vine, 107, 108 
Silt, 5 

Snapdragon, 78, 81, 105, 126, 127, 128, 
135, 141, 208, 212 
Snowball (Viburnam), 39 
Snowflake, see Leocojum 
Snow-on-the-Mountain, see Euphorbia 
Soil 

Acid, 13, 74; Adobe, 6; Alluvial, 6 
Alkaline, 7, 13; Analysis, 12 
Calcareous (Limestone), 7 
Chemical analysis, 9*12, (pH 10 and 
sources of elements, 9-11) 

Clay, 5, 16 

For Aquatic Plants, 231, 234 
Humus, 243; Ideal Garden-loam, 4 
Leafmold, 40, 68; Neutral Soil, 11 
Sand, 4, 16; Silt, 5; Sub-soil, 8-15 
Feeding Notes, 21 
Fertilizers: 

Acid Bed, 14; Barren Spots, 16 
Bonemeal, 20, 22 
Commercial, 19-21 
For Hillside (Rock) Gardens, 225 
Inorganic, 19-21; Organic, 17 
Manures: 

Barnyard, 17; Green, 17; Liquid, 
19,95 

Peatmoss, 243 
Proportion to Use: 

Barnyard, 18; Commercial, 20 
Superphosphate, 21, 22, 136 
To Enrich Clay, 16; Sand, 16 
For House Plants, 11 
Mulches, 23, 242 
Preparation of Beds, see P. 

Tillage, 23, 243 
Trenching, 15 
Water-table, 23 

Sophora . affinis, 38, 46, 60, 239 
Secundiflora, 46 

Sorrel (Mountain) (Sourwood), 59, 60 
Sour Gum (Tubelo) 

Sotol, see Yucca, illus., 3 

Spahagmum Moss, 69 

"Spider Lily,” see Lycoris radiata 


"Spider Lily” (Hymenocallis), 164 
Spider Wort, see Tradescantia 
Spindle Tree (Euonymus atropurea), 
121 

Spireas, 33, 39, 61, 64, 67, 77, 92, 127, 
131, 212, 228, 238 
State Flowers: 

Colorado, Columbine, title page 
Louisiana, Magnolia, 67 
Oklahoma, Mistletoe, 24 
New Mexico, Cactus, 247 
Texas, Bluebonnet, 69 
Statice, 92, 127, 212, 238, 240 
"Strelitzer” (Bird-of-Paradise) 

Stocks, 100, 126, 127 
Sub Soil, 8, 15 
Sulphur, 14, 251, 255, 256 
Sumac see Rhus 
Sundews, 68, 70 
Sunflowers, see Helianthus 
"Swamp Rose,” see Hibiscus 
Sweet Bay, 68, 70 
Sweet Gum, 59, 69, 70 
Sweet Olive, 43 
Sweet Peas, 127, 211, 212 
Sweet Pepper Bush, see Cletbra 
Sweet Shrub, see Calycanthus 
Sweet William, see Dianthus 
Sycamore . .(Platanus or Ficus), 28, 61, 
105 

Symphoricarpus 
albus (Snowberry) 
vulgaris (Coral Berry) 

Syringa (Lilac), (37), 73, 238 
(Mock Orange, see Philadelphus) 

Tallow Tree, 58 

Tamarix (Salt Cedar), 32, 39, 61, 72, 
237 

"Taza de Oro,” (54) 

Tar Flower, 68, 70 

Tecoma stans (Yellow Elder), 51, 63 

Templetonia Retusa (Coral Bush), 54 

Tenaza, 58 

Teucrium, 64, 225 

"Texas Plume” (Gilia rubra), 78, (90), 
110, 211, 214, 241 
Themopsis montana, 83 
T. caroliniana, 86 

Thunbergia (Black-eyed Susan), 55, 
105, 107, 108, 241, 242 
Thuja (Water Hemlock), 4l, 59 
Thyme, 225 

Tiger Apple (Thevitia), 55 
Tiger Lilies (Tigrinum), see Lilies 
Time of Flowering, 210 


272 


INDEX 


Time of Planting, 2, 3, 123, 124, 135, 
136, 141 

Tithonia, 79, 91, 92, 101, 102, 126, 154, 
214 

To increase Blossoms 136; Growth, 11, 
137 

Trachelium, 83 
Trades cantia, (90) 

Transplanting, 58, 115, 124, 134, 235 
"Tree of Heaven” (Ailanthus), 59 
Trees, 28, 55-62 
Acid-loving, 68 
Espalier, 67 
How to Feed, 61 
Planting, 62 

Semi-tropical, 55, 59-60 
Tritelias, 76, (143) 

Tropical Effects, 73, 109, 80, 209, 214 
Trumpet Vine (Tecoma), 74, 109 
Tulips, 33, 76, 77, 83, (147), 148, 209, 
212 228 

Tuberose, 105, 157, 167, 213 
Valerian, 83 

Verbenas, 91, 101, 105, 126, 127, 134, 
135, 211, 212, 213 
Veronica, 78, 211, 215, 24l, 242 
Viburnum, (39), 55, 121, 228 
Vinca Minor, 76, 108, 228, 212 
Viola, 150 

Violets, 76, 80, 92, 129, 211 225, 227 


Virginia Creeper (Hedera, 107, 109, 
242 

Vitex, 51, 61, 73, 105, 211, 238 

Wallflowers, 77, 80, 209, 225 
Walnut, 28 
Watsonia, 154 

Waterlilies, 157, 209, 211, 213, (233) 
Wax Myrtle, 46 
Weigelia, 39, 73, 212, 228 
Winter Protection, 134 
Willow, (39) ; Desert (Flowering), 28, 
32, 60, 105 

Wisteria, 22, 68, 72, 74, 106, 121, 211 
Wilson, E. H., 28 
Woodbine, 107 242 

Yarrow, see Achillea 
Yaupon, 31, 73, 80, 212 
Yews, 54, 59 

Yuccas, 36, (78), (90), 105, 212, 226, 
244, (246) 

Hesperaloe parviflora (Coral Yucca), 
73, 78, 246, Ulus., 227 
Dasylirion, Sotol, 91, 244, 246, 

! Ulus., 3 
Wheelerii, 91 

Zephyranthes (Rain Lilies), 105, 164, 
212, 213 

Zinnias, 79, 91, 101, 102, 103, (104), 
105, 126, 127, 209, 212, 213 



















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